• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.221-236
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to the development of creative fashion culture through the expansion of creative fields in the fashion design area and also the combination of fashion and art techniques, by classifying the cases of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion, and also analyzing its aesthetic characteristics. Conducting the qualitative research through the literature study and the analysis of design cases, it targeted the women's wear collections of Paris, Milan, London, and New York, limiting its range from S/S 2010 to F/W 2015. The results are as follows: First, based on the preceding research, the types of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion were shown as realistic expression of clothing, movement of daily objects, double images, and application of human body. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ based on its expression types were deconstruction, avant-garde, and amusements. The deconstruction was expressed in the expression type of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ such as freedom of materials using digital printing technique, change in the position of clothes, and movement of daily items using collage technique by collecting objets like daily items or waste. The avant-garde was expressed by switching/overlapping in and out of clothes, intentionally exposing some body parts like breast or torso, displacing body parts, and moving daily items. The amusements was shown by realistically expressing accessories or details of clothes using digital printing technique, or moving daily items such as book and fork.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.101-115
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to contribute to the development of the women's fashion field with the goal of creating creative and experimental fashion styles through the categorization of cases of women's fashion design expressed with Maximalism, a type of expression used in modern fashion, as well as analyzing and examining the formativeness of this style. Qualitative research was conducted through a literature review and design case analysis. The scope of this research was from 2011 S/S to 2016 F/W, and the regional scope included the women's collections from Paris, Milano, London and New York. The results acquired are as follows. Initially, exaggeration was expressed through excessively exaggerating the overall silhouette of clothing or exaggeratedly distorting certain parts of the overall silhouette. Secondly, decoration was expressed through the use of the same colors and materials and the addition of excessive details and trimmings to express an exaggerated style of clothing as well as to express a luxurious and handcrafted style of clothing. Thirdly, fusion was expressed through integrating multiple items from different cultures, deconstruction, which destroys the concept of gender and use of clothing, and fashion style that transcends time and space. Fourthly, non-structurality was expressed through differentiating multiple weight feelings applied to the left/right sides of clothing or expressing a structural designs that is asymmetrical to the upper/lower/left/right directions to create a silhouette that displays a creative avant-garde style. As examined above, it was found that the maximalism expressed in fashion after 2011 created new images and expressed maximized emotional orientations through the exaggerated use of multiple silhouettes and decorations or through the integration of colors, patterns, ages and images. Through this process, maximalism is expected to not only provide an infinite possibility to the modern fashion that pursues diversification and multiplication, but also serve as an example that represents diversified post-modernism fashion trends in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제64권4호
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• pp.162-175
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• 2014

This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.515-527
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• 2014

This study is intended to develop the creative and high value-added products as well as the development of diversity for jump suit for the future by analyzing the trend and feature shown in jump suit in the modern fashion. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 351 work pieces on jump suit among those presented in the collection of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2006S/S to 2013F/W as well as literature review. The aesthetic features on suit jump design introduced in the modern fashion could be characterized as the following. First, both upper and lower garments are composed with a simple array of items and the stress was put on modernity feature through minimal expression technique. The feature of solid simplicity was also given with achromatic color or neutral monochrome. Second, the feminity image was emphasized with adoption of such highlighting items as detailed add-ons, tops, camisoles and blouses that stress the organically curved streamline including silhouette, material itself, crease and drape that enable the direct and indirect exposition of human body and the expression of smooth curve in human body. Third, jump suit revealed the multipurpose feature as item available for the diverse wear such as working habiliment, sports wear, uniform, office wear and evening wear, depending on the terms and conditions. Fourth, the deconstructive characteristic appeared through integration with various items, destruction of formative structure, non-structural shape, and ambiguity in wearing method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.176-190
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• 2007

As the globalization has increasingly brought in the disintrgration of boundary between cultures, the hybrid of styles, or fusion styles in various cultural spheres have been introduced as important theme. With this new trend, the traditional culture of Asia appeared as the source of inspiration for the West, and as the source of enhanced pride and asset for ethnic groups which have been considered "the Other" by the West. 1990's witnessed a drastically increased interest in Orientalism and Ethnic trends in most social aspects, especially in culture and art. They have been the main theme in fashion, providing the source of inspiration with elements such as the unique color schemes, composition methods and geometrical simplicity. The creative application of traditional culture into modern design as well as fashion can make a significant contribution and be a solid foundation for the development of national culture in general, since images containing cultural authenticity are the visual representation of the nation and they can be important tools for the globalization of design. This study aims to find out the formative characteristics of Korean traditional embroidery and the ways they are applied in modern fashion by world-renowned Korean fashion designers. The purpose of this study is to make a fundamental source for further study by the same author on creative design development utilizing the result. The study methods are literature study combined with research of genuine articles from museums and personal ownership as well as photos from magazines and internet. The significance of this study lies in enhancing the appreciation of Korean traditional culture and expanding the possibility of its globalization by modern application.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제63권1호
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• pp.56-63
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• 2013

This study provides comparative analysis on the parodying of the body and political powers in the traditional animation and Shrek Series based on the discourse of Foucault. For the research, parody theories and Foucault's discourse were reviewed through the literature study, and Shrek Series was analyzed through positive study. The Shrek Series overturned stereotypes of the traditional animation by means of parody, especially showing a true body and a political power in the post-modern society. Foucault focused on the body and newly changed political power in the post-modern society. A body was changed into resistant and combative forms rather than obedient and submissive under control of the community power. In addition, political power was changed into relationship-oriented, decentralized and creative power rather than the centralized and class-based. In the traditional fairy tales, heroes and heroines are beautiful and perfect characters who obtain wealth and honor and live a happy life forever. However, heros and heroines in the Shrek Series are not attractive and do not have the ideal body shape, but rather have creative and active personalities and show indifference towards wealth and honor. Furthermore, their dress colors show the change into lower value and higher chroma. The Shrek Series is a future-oriented animation which created a fluid body and a creative political power in the post-modern society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.165-181
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• 2012

Alexander McQueen is a typical designer of unconventional and experimental design who showed maximalism through outstanding tailoring. The purpose of this research is to study formative characteristics of maximalism that are expressed in modern fashion based on the works of Alexander McQueen, and to suggest boundless possibilities of development through his sense of design and the expressive ability of his works. Theoretical considerations will be made through literature research and precedent studies, and the collection data for case analysis will be used to select ready-to-wear women's collections from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W by referring to internet sites. The study results are as follows. First, the most representative characteristic of formative characteristics of maximalism expressed in Alexander McQueen's works is expandability. Second, decorations used as a part of detail on clothes is used as decoration itself, and handcraft expression is shown through excessive use of decorations. The expandability of decoration that emphasizes splendid magnificence is expressed through flawless technique. Third, the fusion of each different image and the combination of ethnic image and modern image was most prevalent. Fourth, fantasy expresses a fictive image that could not be seen in reality by expressing an unrealistic and maximized image through the imagination of designer. Fifth, experimental element is expressed as an image that actively reflects the challenging spirit, which suggests a new direction of beauty through shocking and extraordinary images of the inner world of the designer and the root of new ideas about inhumane modern society.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.253-260
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• 2010

The drop handle in the Chosun-Dynasty played a role lifting up the cabinet and box which was attached to and besides this had the decoration function. The scope of this study should include the drop handles from the $18^{th}$ century up to now by investigating and analyzing their definition & function and furthermore the types of their designs. The object of the study was the drop handle having 2 golden fixing parts which are definitive difference from ring or loop, and the design typology of drop handle was concentrated on the handle part, and it can be classified in two types. The one is the figuration of bow, bat, bamboo, fish and bird and so on from the motive of nature on the handle part, and the other one is the drop handle of the simple ㄷ-shape, the temple-symbol shape or geometrical forms. According to the analysis of relics & literature from the past it was found that there were more quantitative nature-motive figurations than the geometrical forms. The nature-motive figurations were again classified in box-, bat-, cloud- bamboo-, fish- and bird-type, and the geometrical forms in ㄷ-shape, the temple-symbol shape and others. The cases applied to furniture are roughly divided into the front-attached type and the side-attached type. In comparison of the drop handle in the Chosun-Dynasty with that of modern times, ㄷ-shape and bow-type keep the long tradition of the drop handles despite of the constructive change partly. Ring-type is similar to the just ring or loop of the part and drop handle with one golden fixing part, while the knob-type shows almost same forms in the past as well as in the modern times. Which type among handles in the modern times has little connection with the past is the reclaimed type, and it was showed in the Chosun-Dynasty and also is showed up to now identically that the man-made hole on the front side of the drawer for the function as handle.

• Korean Journal of Acupuncture
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.137-153
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• 2003

The Oriental Medicine is described with so many terms of its own theory causing misunderstand of the concept which is expressed with same term used in modern medicine. Muscular system is also used in the both medicines, the Oriental Medicine and modern medicine. For the purpose of resolving the misunderstand of using the medical terms, we referred to a large number of literature for the muscular system in both medicine. Although there are few references concerning about systematic components in the Oriental Medicine, among the concepts of the Oriental Medicine, there are comparatively many approaches to the Meridian muscular system, a muscular system related with the Meridian, Therefore, there are many similarities and differences in the interrelation between the muscular system which was stated at the time of the concept of the Meridian system was developed and anatomical muscular system in the modern medicine. As a result of survey the references, we found out that anatomical muscular system is limited to visual compartments, whereas the Meridian muscular system is covering not only visual components but also the relation with internal organs. We conclude that there are conceptual differences in the kyung-keun system in the past and anatomical muscular system in the present.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제36권7호
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• pp.727-740
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• 2012

This study is for the enhancement and utilization of future graphic design for T-shirts and deals with the expression styles and features of T-shirt graphic designs that appear in modern fashion. A literature examination about graphic design and T-shirts was performed for the research method and the analysis followed 378 pieces of graphic design featured in four major international collections for females from 2001S/S to 2011S/S. The research results from the expression type of T-shirt graphic design in the modern fashion are as follows. Expression in graphic figure accounts for the largest portion of 40.8% that includes illustration or cartoon characters, personal figure or part of the physical body, object in daily life or landscape pictures, animals and plants, and others. Expression given in text with typography or logo accounted for 27.5%, expression combined with letter/text, graphics and geometric figures accounted for 24.3%, geometrical expression accounted for 7.4%; most of which are given in print. Characteristics found in modern fashion graphic design are as follows. First, role of sort of public relations marketing was accompanied with utilization of brand logo or symbol. Second, visual play was shown in a sense of humor with diverse graphic figures and playful texts, witty layout with graphic motives, and a free design formation. Third, it denoted a front burner issue delivering the message for various current events or arguments via the way of texts, slogans, and symbolic pictures. Fourth, it depicted artistry through the self-expressive creation of the designer.