• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.43-53
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to show inherent and differentiated beauty by designing costume knitwear using Dancho patterns representing peculiar beauty, thus expressing free and convenient knitwear in the modern sense for women with the image of reasonableness and elegance, proposing knit design using high-class materials for satisfying the demand for the highest. With regard to expression technique of works, I selected computer Jacquard method to indicate effective comparison effect of expression material and made expression with $12{\sim}14$ gauge as base by using computer knitting machine. Through above-mentioned research process and design using Knit CAD system, I obtained following conclusion. First, it is possible to express variously and widely traditional patterns by making the most of the beauty of the orient and by recomposing the patterns of plant patterns representing "feminine image". Second, it is possible to widely represent the sense you can feel from knit by expressing variously diversity of knit structure and Jacquard knitting structure and gauge. Finally, it is possible to express designs more freely and imaginably by using computer Knit CAD system instead of actual knitting of various knit expression technique and materials application.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.97-111
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• 2020

Classifying clothing fabrics into fashion images lacks research, but is necessary due to the short cycle of fashion and rapidly changing modern trends as consumers seek to satisfy various needs with an increase of online purchases. There is also a lack of research on fashion trend books which attach real fabrics. Therefore, this study aims to help the planning field by recognizing fabric sensibility related to the fabric image perceived by consumers. The data analysis results from descriptive statistics, t-test, and ANOVA using SPSS are as follows: Differences in the visual tactility evaluation related to the consumer recognized fabric images showed more significant differences in F/W seasons. The elegance image was shown as relatively thick, the avant-garde image was shown as relatively heavy, thick fabric. The feminine image was shown as relatively thin and smooth fabric, the sporty images were shown to be moist, flexible and elastic, and the mannish images were relatively rough. The romantic images were shown as relatively thin fabrics. The conclusions inferred from the visual tactile evaluation related to the fabric images recognized by consumers vary by major, so the prior information concerning fabrics and trends can affect the selection of images. The results of this study show that in order to produce clothes suitable for fashion product planning by learning about visual tactility that consumers recognize, fabrics component data displayed in fashion trend books from 2016 to 2018 are needed, so the planner can receive help when selecting the fabrics suitable for each trend.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.613-625
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• 2007

Globalizing the Japanese fashion successfully, Hanae Mori's work awoke the western fashion world's nostalgia towards the East. Analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes what kinds of aesthetic characteristic that her work had and what kinds of influences that she made in the modern fashion would provide substantial contribution of the world's modern fashion. This study provided forms and remarkable features of Japanese traditional custom, revealed Hanae Mori's life and her philosophies of fashion, and defined Hanae Mori's aesthetic characteristics by analyzing her work from 1970's until the retirement, July 2004. Methods of this study are completed by documentary records of Hanae Mori, research papers and fashion magazines that are published domestically and internationally, and collected materials from internet. The results of analysis are epitomized as below. Hanae Mori was the first Japanese fashion designer who expressed the characteristics of traditional Japanese custom with modernity sprit. In the 60's and 70's, especially in the U.S. and European fashion market, she inspired western fashion designers by her original sprit of art: combining Japanese tradition which showed distinctive color and spirit of nature and the western beauty. Hanae Mori created new dress molding from the Kimono's unstructured feature. Her layered look dressing, oblique adjustment and Obi, and others all enabled Mori to express Japanese image into modern fashion. Additionally, in terms of traditional Japanese image being acknowledged world-widely, she played a major contribution in world fashion by suggesting a new vision and raised several sensations in fashion artistry and modeling. Amongst her various patterns, Hanae Mori had butterfly patterns in most of her works, which was her representative symbol. This spoke for her strong will and senses of duty that wanting to inform beauty of Japanese women who were reflected in modern and graceful butterfly patterns. Flowers were another element that symbolized Mori. Using various flower motifs that bloomed in every different four seasons, she connected two images into her fashion; beauty of the nature and enlightening image of vibrating life. The aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes were defined as five: Japonism, naturalism, feminism, eroticism, and modernism. Japonism which is the spirit of Japanese, Mori used the concept to connect the East and the West. Naturalism represented harmony of the nature and the human. Feminism highlighted Eastern women's beauty. Eroticism emitted feminine attraction. Modernism represented simplicity and sophistication. Such aesthetic character illustrated Mori's original emotion that was based on Japanese spirit and she combined it with values of the East and the West. From the analysis of Mori's aesthetic characteristics, it is clearly recognizable her feministic beauty is emanated by her original emotion and sensibility.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권9호
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• pp.1000-1013
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• 2012

This study analyzes public images, role types, and fashion images of Korean First Ladies in modern times to find a correlation of a standard through an analysis of literature reviews. The conclusion of the study is as follows. First, in terms of official functions in formal situations, First Ladies represent a type of customary presidential protocol and offer appealing neat images through a moderate style and simple mode. In other situations, such as non-formal times, they show duty-based roles in regards to the lady of the house as well as the companion of the president that are represent soft and comfortable images through a feminine style and graceful mode. Second, it reflects their tastes and images in the silhouette and colors of Western style clothing through the personal roles and activities of the First Lady. Third, the Korean First Ladies tend to prefer the feminine image of housewife-based assistant that shows that they prefer clothes with a regular repetition and stabilized pattern such as dots and checkered patterns. Fourth, as compared to a previous period, they create a style for bright images and dainty feelings that use a variety of colors and light fabrics that represent many aspects of political assistance with active support.

• 복식
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• 제57권7호
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• pp.108-121
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to seek the means of enlarging the application of Saek-dong to fashion products by surveying and analysing the recognition and image of Saek-dong in college students. As a research procedure, the bibliographical survey on the meaning and history of Saek-dong was preceded in this study, and the students were examined on the recognition and image of Saek-dong through the questionnaires. The female students were more acquiesced with the Saek-dong and Saek-dong clothing than the male students. And the students thought that the Saek-dong was our original and traditional clothing because it was worn by our ancestors from the earliest years. The word Saek-dong reminded them of red, yellow, blue, green, white and red-brown colors in order of appearance. The most familiar color-arrange to them was red+yellow+dark-brown+green+blue, and the blue, purple, green, red, white color was thought as manly Saek-dong colors and the yellow, red, dark-brown, pink, white was regarded as feminine Saek-dong colors. Saek-dong was primarily associated with the image of Saek-dong clothing and most of the students expressed their feeling about the Saek-dong as 'cute.' Most of the students responded that the practical Hanbok was best illustrated as the most applied clothing of Saek-dong and that the attempt to apply the color and pattern of Saek-dong to other modern artistic products was likely to damage the worth of traditional Saek-dong. When it comes to the matter of applying the design of Saek-dong to the fashion products, male students thought that it could be best applied to the shirts, while female students thought that the design of Saek-dong could best be applied to the personal ornaments.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.183-196
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to find out the characteristics of sexuality expressed in the contemporary modern fashion jacket, especially designer Thom Browne. Thom Browne is a very successful fashion brand that has focused on design of extraordinary theme. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 862 work pieces in the collection of S/S, F/W, RESORT, PRE-FALL from 2010 to 2016. The characteristics of the contemporary expressions of sexualities can be subdivided into four separate categories. First, The demolition is inflated retail, exaggerated shoulder silhouettes, such as short sleeve jacket is mainly used in the form of a women's match with each other and expressed by different materials applied to men. Female jackets are designed for the silhouette to highlight the strong masculine image to highlight additional detail on the chest or vice versa, to express women's jacket to distort the female. Secondly, Sensuality is designed the body of a male was represented by a design that gives a greater masculinity was expressed that the interpretation of the male gender in detail jacket sleeves and wrap the exposed areas of the important men of fashion. Women's jacket by using a see-through material, mainly sensory Castle outward to reveal the concealed body of the female form a natural curve shows the feminine sensuality. Lastly, Incongruity is inadequate representation by sex of clothing to match the jacket and skirt in women's wear it is also unsuitable for revealing gender as male by applying soot forms. The study attempts to find the meaning in that this presents the direction of the creative development of the modern fashion design based on the aesthetic characteristics of Thom Browne fashion appearing in the modern fashion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion characteristics of fashion magazine cover by comparing and analyzing the formative characteristics of fashion, visual design characteristics and illustration vocabulary on the cover of 3 fashion magazines. The data analysis criteria consisted of the formative elements of fashion (fashion design element, fashion coordination element) and visual design element (color, illustration lexical layout, model photograph type). Data analysis methods were statistical analysis, stepwise lexical analysis, and content analysis. The results of the study are as follows. First, the formative characteristics of fashion on the cover of fashion magazines show that ELLE is a feminine and elegant characteristics, VOGUE is a modern, chic and mannish characteristics, and W is avant-garde and neutral characteristics. Second, visual design characteristics on the cover of fashion magazines, ELLE and VOGUE use modern and simple modern sensibility by using monotonous background color and background color number, and W showed original image characteristic by using various colors. Third, as a result of the illustration lexical analysis on the cover of fashion magazines, 4 core keywords of trend, star, event, and life appeared in 3 magazines in common. Elle differentiates by innovation, Vogue by discrimination, W by reconstruction.

• 복식
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• 제51권2호
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• pp.149-167
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• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권8호
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• pp.1309-1321
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• 2008

Military style is not limited to a single period but represents various image communications related to items, synthetic images and different periodical culture backgrounds. The purpose of this study is to define the communicational function of the military style beginning from the 1st world war up to the modern days, and furthermore explain the characteristics and contents of military styles in different periods by studying the nowadays various symbols of the military style in denotative and connotative aspects. The research method is documentary studies through the literature and academic paper, and examined masters' and doctors' thesis, domestic and overseas books and fashion magazines, photographs and materials collected from the internet. As a result, first, the military style is a significant fashion code in understanding modern fashion by serving as a strong communication function representing people’s ritual through various image items called the 'military look'. Second, the meaning of the image communication through military look changed throughout the different periods. During the 1st and 2nd World war the military look supported Fascism by serving as a media representing extreme patriotism and at the same time social images like functionalism, women liberation, regulation and saving. During the cold war period it was used by young progressives like hippies and punks to send an opposing message towards war and commercialism. Since then up to the 80s it was a medium representing the ‘new role of women’, who possess same social rights and power as the men. However in the 90s the military style had to go through a paradigm transition period. Since this period it got affected by the post modernism and designers, consumers alike adopted military style to create unique beauty It can also be said that it began to be used as a pure fashion code representing intertextuality. It was rather expressed as a metonymy than a metaphor and combined with elegance and feminine factor, which contrasts to the original military concept, it now represents totally new hybrids such as difference, dissemination and varieties.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2006

This case study is to embody the birth of a beautiful goddess out of seashells in a contemporary fashion design collection, on the basis of the mythology of The Birth of Venus. The main theme attempts to reinterpret the image of the goddess of love and beauty and express the organic vitality of seashells and oceanic feelings by swirls in motion. To accomplish this, three dimensional silhouette of layered forms of voluminous outer and fitted inner is applied to design ideas with spiral curves. The opposite texture of something sculptural and transparent versus smooth and shiny is used to express the layered structure of seashells with the delicacy of goddess. Neutral colours and different tones of pink appeal to oceanic feelings and feminine emotion in a modern way. Various techniques by the geometric simplicity of flat patterns and pleating with boning are also performed to express the vital movement of organism. Throughout the whole process of this case study, the conceptual idea of Swirls in Motion - a goddess and seashells is reinterpreted to a contemporary fashion by personal and creative design development process. In particular, it is evaluated by the process of primary researches, various design developments and experimentations to the main theme.