• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.119-132
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• 2008

This study intended to develop and produce a modern form of fashion design for the Korean creative dance performance, 'Crazy Skirt Collage', which expressed conflict between internal ego and a persona in a woman. The qualitative method was used to analyze literature review, internet search and visual data of historically important cases related to the theme. Based on the analysis, the fashion design of the dance performanre by Hwang Hee-Yeon that was actually staged on Towol Theater, one of the Seoul Arts Center, was produced. The results wire as follows; First, the study confirmed a change of persona that revealed a female's animus strongly as it moved into the modern time. Second, the female's persona was expressed through long skirts, slips, dress shoes, handbags, military shoes, dresses with long zippers, trousers, wedding dresses and Korean full skirts during the performance, while the female's animus through male coats, panties, big bags and clock. In conclusion, it is necessary to study new expressive methods, that is, dance clothes using advanced equipment such as lights, videos or other variety of materials. It is also important to understand aesthetics of modern women's ordinary lives and to adapt ordinary clothes to dance clothes in various methods in order to express their modern lives appropriately through Korean creative dance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.161-167
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• 2006

The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.85-85
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• 2002

• Fashion Information and Technology
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• v.3
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• pp.48-54
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• 2006

• 한국생활과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2009.05a
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• pp.155-156
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• 2009

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.231-252
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• 1998

Since the costume directly express human mental and emotional status, colors of costume can be valuable data to grasp the spirit of the times. Black is noticeably used in modern fashion and the study for black costume is very useful to understand modern fashion. There-fore the study mainly approaches the black costume, finding its background of appearance and symbolism, reviews the symbolism and formality of black expressed in the field of paint-ing and design beyond the fashion, and compar-es to fashion. The study result of the thesis is as follows ; First, black as a color is a one to light other neighboring colors, while it is a static, con-tractible and outstandigly attractived color. Second, black color traditionally symbolizes death, earth, air, North and inferior level and in the painting, it symbolized death, despair, fantastic world and the expression of pent-up self, while cities have been symbolized in the black printing in modern times. In the design, black has appeared with the industrial society, which symbolizes functionality and modernity. Third, black in the fashion design was symbolized death, sternness simplicity, modernity, sex, resistance and so on. Death became conspicious by a religious factor since the old times, sternness was influenced by Spanish fashion in the 16th century, simplicity by Dutch fashion in the 17th century and modernity by Baudelaire dandyism and Chanel little black dress, while sex and resistance were urged to the modern times by teenage inferior culture and stickiness to sex. Fourth, the formative features of black costume prefer simplicity, tightness and bareness in form, and in material, usually used glancing materials changed by the effect of light, lace, see-through fabric and matte one with depth. As a result, the black color is summarized to symbol death, expression of self and modernity. It is not a color of emotion but of mentality and artificial one against nature. Black color in fashion gets a strong power to express self in the symbolic aspect and draws a higher attention on human body than the fashion itself. By these features, black costume will be continuously prefered in spite of changes of the fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.31-46
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• 2016

This study would inquire into the fashion image and design characteristics of Peng Liyuan, the first lady of China that has a mighty influence on the recent global economy and consumption. For this purpose, first, this study investigated the fashion image of Peng Liyuan according to the role which she performs as a first lady and analyzed how the fashion image appears and changes by year and role type. Second, this study analyzed the design characteristics of Peng Liyuan's fashion image, focusing on the silhouette, fashion items, coordinated items, colors, and textile patterns. The scope of the research was limited to the dresses worn by Peng Liyuan from March 14, 2013 to September 30, 2015. The fashion image of Peng Liyuan changed from classic and elegant image to modern image till 2015, and she reduced ethnic image and emphasized romantic image. In international diplomatic visits, she tried to express the confidence and potential of China through classic, ethnic and modern image, while in formal events of China, she showed an intention to communicate with the Chinese public with soft intimacy through elegant and ethnic images. As design characteristics in her fashion image, she flexibly changed her fashion image by the composition of silhouettes and items, which could cover her mid-life body type and made use of the form and detail of Chinese traditional qipao, appropriate coordination of scarves and brooches, the combination of chromatic color and achromatic color, appropriate uses of textile patterns and the delivery of China's image according to place and purpose. The study of Peng Liyuan's fashion image has significance to understand the fashion trend as a role model of fashion for the Chinese people and can help the domestic fashion industry that aims at the Chinese market in the future by predicting Chinese women' Fashion trend.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.681-706
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• 2000

This study is intended to understand an implication system and significance in the current community which a body image symbolizes by correlating it with fashion that is on the rise as a principal issue in various fields. For this study, the symbolism of the body image was contemplated in terms of philosophy and art, and then on the basis of it, the symbolism of the body image shown in modern fashion design was analyzed through fashion works. The research results are as follows, 1. The manifestation of sex can be taken as the symbolism of the body image which is expressed in modern fashion design. Recently sexual chaos and vagueness such as homosexuality and bisexuality are expressed through a dress and its ornaments. Though displaying sexual characteristics of male and female as they are exposing a sign or a diagram, decorating a part of body or representing sex in garments, uncertain sex identity in modern society is manifested in dress and its ornaments. It is to deny absoluteness regarding sex and emphasize diversity indwelt in human beings, and after all it shows to pursue the human essence. 2. Another symbolism of the body image is body expression as the human race and an ethnic group. The discriminating situations and the restoration of their status appeared in modern fashion too. Moreover, their cultures and issues came to alter the aesthetic standard of body made from a view of the Western white supremacist. Hereupon, fashion trends like ethnic fashion, Orientalism and African look etc. appear according to this tendency, which represents race and national identity and in addition, which signifies to present transcendental human conception embracing alienated human conception. 3. The symbolism of the body image expressed in a body, and a dress and its ornaments as nature can be considered in terms of the concern on environmental contamination and the respect of echo system. Getting away from reigning over, developing and stamping down nature at their will, the human beings pursue unity with nature, which is described in fashion. They are stressing that natural materials and objects such as animal, plant and soil etc. should activily be introduced into fashion and humans are a communal fate group and should reframe their status in nature at last. 4. The body image shown in a body, a dress and its ornaments as technology is transformed and recreated by modern scientific techniques and medical science to show post human conception namely, forthcoming future human conception as a cyborg which loses individual identity. This presents a perfect future human conception with high level of preternatural power but after all, leaves us a task to seek the meaning of human existence in alienation caused by the loss of human identity and existence. In this manner, the moderns crave for perceiving the identity of a natural human being in the current thoughts tendency of the modern times such as postmodernism, post structuralism, deconstructionism, feminism and so on, which build discussions affecting the art and fashion worlds. The categories, like sexual characteristics indwelt in a human body, racial classifications, the natural environment surrounding human beings and development of science, bring out the importance of the internal and external meaning in today's fashion which a human body contains, and present sew human conception in the coming future society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1064-1075
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to grasp the change of modern space concept and analyze how to adopt and embody the change in modern fashion. The study researched wearer's costume space and analyzed space shown in supermodern fashion design by classifying it into response to non-space, allowance of wearer-based space, scientific space of architectural skill and embodiment of space image. As a study method, literature and study material of sociology, anthropology, fashion sociology and design field were referred. For picture data of supermodern fashion work, specialized book, designer, brand collection material and internet site pictures were collected and analyzed. The study result shows the following features of fashion design space embodiment corresponding to the change of supermodern environment. First, supermodern design secures closet space like pocket for portable objects and uses design space in order to provide the space for convenience of movement. Second, supermodern design creates wearer-based independent space in order to secure person's physical and mental stability in city environment. Third, supermodern design uses space scientifically from the aspect of detail and shape by applying space of architectural skill to space. Fourth, supermodern design shows aesthetic feature that embodies interpretation of space by conceptualizing space image and using fashion.

• Archives of design research
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• v.18 no.4 s.62
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• pp.225-236
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• 2005

As a fresh trial using humorous items to escape from economic recession and uncertain state of mind regarding politics and society, fun is emerging as a keyword in design area. This study classified various use of fun reflected in modern fashion design according to the theme, and analyzed the mod of expression to identify formative characteristics. Through these processes, this study built conceptual structure of fun in fashion design. 412 fashion designs which represent fun were collected from 2001 $S/S{\sim}2005$ F/W collections. Data were analyzed and categorized. Results showed that the theme of fun in the modern fashion design could be classified into humor, kidult, irony, satire/parody, storytelling, and play. The design elements mainly used were color silhouette, letter, object, and drawing, while the design principles were distortion/exaggeration, incongruity, and repetition. In addition, these expressions were related to the traditional humor theory: incongruity-resolution, superior, and relief theories. The fun in modern fashion design has such value as affirmation, warmness, entertainment, youth, contradiction, surprise, deviate, allusion, attack, and description, Finally, in regard to the subject, the fun provides active experience like play as well as passive acceptance.