• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.97-111
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• 2023

Dynamic orphism images expressed with abstraction and construction in color are often found in modern fashion. Orphism stressing color is one of the many art trends that influence fashion. This work aims to examin its expressive effects and characteristics that appear in fashion and provide basic materials for fashion design study. This study proceeds with the following steps. First, the study takes on a theoretical examination of the orphism trend using a literature review. Second, based on its results, modern fashion's expressive features influenced by orphism are analyzed. Third, the study draws expression effects in modern fashion from these characteristics. The study coverage is confined to domestic and foreign collections released in the 21st century. The study contents come from an Internet-base domestic and international database and published material, including dissertations and books. Orphism expression effects are found in the following ways in modern fashion. First, it lies in the abstraction effect of color. This feature arrays flat geometric figure on the clothing surface and applies a strong sense of color inside it, as if color has an abstractive structured design. Second, it gives a dynamic sense visually to the clothes all at once by stressing the relation among and between the colors with powerful contrast. Third, it has a collage effect of color. This effect develops into an organic combination composed of geometric plane figures with intense complementary colors in a single piece of clothing. Expression types that presents the orphism effect in fashion are divided into clothing showing traditional orphism characteristics faithfully and clothing expressing conventional orphism characteristics mixed with modern trends. Further developed orphism fashion can be classified by the playful type, with graffiti added onto an orphism color structure, and the destructive type, where traditional orphism color orders are taken apart and reformed into a new color order.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.478-486
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• 2011

This study is to analyze the symbolic images appeared in modern fashion design adopted dualistic meanings in uniforms. Uniforms signify order, conformity and discipline in public life. The dualistic meanings in uniforms appeared modern times are as follows: public authority vs individual non-authority, heterosexual identity vs homosexual identity, time-space uniformity vs mixed diversity. The symbolic images appeared in modern fashion design adopted dualistic meanings in uniforms such as military uniforms, school uniforms, nurses' uniforms, sports uniforms and etc. are erotic image, hybrid image, and kitsch image.

• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.79-94
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to explore the process of how modern fashion establishes new consumption cultures by analyzing the different types of fashion toys that have appeared in modern fashion, and identifying inherent meanings of the said toys. The range of this study was limited to four collections (New York, London, Milano, Paris) from 2000 to 2015. In addition to these collections, advertisement campaign and cooperative examples as well as examples of fashion toys that appeared in public interest activities and collections were included. The selected materials were classified into different types of fashion toy usage. From the results of analyzing fashion toys appearing in modern fashion, the four following characteristics. After analyzing the use of fashion toys in modern fashion, four characteristics were found. First, fashion toys were found to be a means to maximize the visual effects of the collection stage. Second, fashion toys utilized as a fashion object were key elements in transforming neo-pop into modern fashion, and constructing high fashion. Third, the fact that people's fashion and fashion toys share contemporary fashion means that customers are shared through the integration of diverse media. This leads to creation of new benefits. Fourth, fashion toys are meaningful because the products reflect contemporary culture, and extend the scope of fashion and art, as it can be considered fashion as well as art. In conclusion, fashion toys were meaningful in that high fashion broke from conservative values, and swiftly introduced contemporary culture codes. It derived a point of effective contact to present a new way of consumption and extended the scope of fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.531-542
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• 2009

This study examines the correlation between the characteristics of sustainable slow design, The outcome derived from the pro-environmental consciousness in fashion design, and the trends of modern fashion design. The conclusion of this study is as follows. First, slow design for sustainability shows an environmental consciousness and stresses the ethical aspects of fashion design that take into account the wellbeing and sustainable development of human society. It also focuses on the continuos present in which the consistent pace of life endures, rather than pursuing speedy changes of fashion by titillating desire. Second, the five characteristics of slow design have been extracted from the analysis of the examples of fashion industry and other fashion-related areas. They are sustainability, recyclibility, handicraft, naturalness, and simplicity. Third, these characteristics of slow design have much to do with modern fashion genres. For instance, classical style fashions such as Chanel suit and Burberry coat have the same qualities of sustainability, while at the same time the Vintage fashion, which reinterprets the fashions from bygone eras in modern style, has the tendency of recyclibility, and the Hippie style, a resurrection of hand-touch spirit that emerged as a secondhand style expressionism resisting uniform mass production, has not only the quality of handicraft but also recyclibility.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.32-51
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• 2022

This study analyzed the characteristics and expression techniques of men's fashion bags and their aesthetic and formative values in modern men's fashion from the perspective of neo-deconstructivism. The study subjects were men's fashion bags appearing in four collections in Paris, Milan, London, and New York in the 2019 S/S-2021 S/S season. As a research method, the characteristics and expression techniques of the new disintegration of men's fashion bags were analyzed and categorized through prior research and literature research. The results of the study are as follows: First, the neoclassical characteristics of men's fashion bags caused 'Re-creation' to appear as the dissolution of the design principle and structure of the bag, and it was derived as 'decomposition of form' and 'decomposition of dress method'. Second, the 'Inclusive Diversity' of modern men's fashion bags of neo-deconstructivism appears in the form of gender demarcation and dissonance coordination. Third, 'Playfulness' in men's fashion bags involves the pursuit of fun through unconventional changes in the shape, size, and design of the bag, and it sometimes provides a fresh, new play experience through unpredictable design elements. Fourth, the 'Pursuit of new values' in male's fashion bags was a characteristic wherein the boundary between DIY attire and daily clothes and high fashion by the individual selection of consumers was blurred. This work is meaningful in that it conducted a basic study of men's fashion bags by examining the modern men's fashion bag from the perspective of the philosophical trend of neo-deconstructivism and categorizing its characteristics.

• 복식
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• 제61권5호
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• pp.21-33
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• 2011

The aim of this study is to identify the formative feature of the Chippendale style of the 18th century and to understand the aesthetic feature of the Chippendale style applied in the modern fashion. This is significant in that new possibilities are proposed in fashion design in more holistic and multifaceted views by comparing and delving into the fashion vis-a-vis other fields in a bigger scope of the formative art. The Chippendale style furniture is a combination of various styles of different eras and regions such as Gothic and Chinese style based on the Rococo style. Today, It is regarded in fashion as a composite design of heterogeneous elements or very curvy decorative design. The Chippendale style of this kind is classified into the Rococo style, Gothic style and Chinese style. Depending on each classification, formative features including curves, asymmetry, decorativeness, geometrical feature, exoticism, compositeness and graceness were derived. In comparative studies, fashion and furniture of the Chippendale style have the similarity in formative features but there were some differences in the expressive method. This study analyzed the formative features of the Chippendale style represented in furniture and the modern fashion based on the Rococo-revival design in the modern fashion starting from 2000.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.499-512
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• 2022

본 연구의 목적은 먼저 유니섹스와는 그 개념과 차원이 다른 젠더리스 개념을 알아보고, 현대 패션에서 젠더리스 복식의 경향을 파악하며 그 특성을 살펴봄으로써 현대 패션에서 나타나는 젠더리스 복식을 통해 현대 패션에 나타난 젠더리스 경향과 특징을 짚어보았다. 이를 위하여 본 연구에서는 국내·외 문헌, 패션 웹사이트를 통해 이론적 고찰과 컬렉션 사례 분석을 진행하였다. 이를 바탕으로 현대 컬렉션에서 젠더리스 성향이 강한 디자인을 분석하여 컬렉션에 표현된 젠더리스 복식의 특성을 도출하였다. 그 결과 현대 컬렉션에 나타난 젠더리스 패션의 특성으로 혁신성, 반항성, 미래 지향성의 세 가지를 도출할 수 있었다. 또한, 현대의 젠더리스 패션은 단순히 생리적인 성별에 따른 패션이 아나라 정신적 성별과 생리적인 성별에 대한 다양한 욕구를 내포함으로써 이는 성의 구분이 모호해지는 현재의 사회적 현상과 서로 상호작용하여 나타남을 알 수 있었다. 하나의 문화 현상과 유행이 된 젠더리스 패션를 이해하고 연구하고자 한 본 연구를 기반으로 앞으로 향후 젠더리스 복식과 관련한 많은 후속 연구가 진행되기를 바라는 바이다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.17-32
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• 2017

Modern society has been transformed into a digital emotional society that could gradually be seen, felt, and enjoyed by the diversification of personal consumption desires due to digital development. Accordingly, in fashion, an original fashion sense that arose out of classical and conventional thinking has become important and there is an increasing interest in patchwork quilts. The purpose of this study lies in contributing to the development and utilization of creative and emotional fashion design by expanding the mental changes that have emerged in modern society to creative areas after analyzing the classification and expression characteristics of the type cases of patchwork quilt techniques expressed in modern fashion. In addition, it is meaningful to examine how the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts are expressed in the digital emotion era. This study paralleled literature research and empirical case studies. In the scope and method of research, the theatrical research was centered on literature data. For visual data, website photos were collected, limited to women's clothing among the collections from Fall & Winter 2014 to Spring & Summer 2017. After drawing the expression types of patchwork quilts extracted from the previous research based on the design formative factors, the fashion-related expert group analyzed the expressive characteristics of 501 photographs in which the patchwork quilt of the designer clothing collection were reflected. As a result of analysis, the expressive types appeared in the order of diversification of techniques and materials, extended dual images, new formative composition, and reconstruction of traditional patchwork. In this study, the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts expressed in contemporary fashion are analyzed and drawn as variability, compromise, convergence, and playfulness. Through this, it is hoped that this study can be used variously in the development of fashion design by expanding the interpretation of costume culture.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.165-180
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• 2000

Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.461-472
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive style of radical feminism and post-modern feminism appearing on the contemporary denim fashion by examining pictures from professional fashion magazine Vogue. For this study, I investigated documents to study the characteristic of radical feminism and post-modern feminism and classified the contemporary denim fashion into erotic look, endrogynous look and deconstructive look. The results of study on the expression style of feminism reflected on the contemporary denim fashion were as follows: First, radical feminism emphasizes that women's sexual feature is never inferior to men's. Therefore in denim fashion, erotic style which emphasize on women's sexual beauty is represented by making hot pants, mini skirt, halter blouse of denim and by using colored jeans and flower print or beads on denim. Second, post-modern feminism has been represented by disregarding or intergrating the existed rule as refusing sexual discrimination. It has been represented in fashion as an endrogynous style by representing neutral gender image. Today, it is represented in denim fashion by mixing a different fabric with denim and matching womanish design with mannish design. Third, post-modem feminism are classified into unfixed expression of genders and the deconstructive expression of methodology. The deconstructive expression of denim fashion is represented by using the damage of fabric by making a hole or tearing intentionally or fraying edge of denim. Also the unfinished designs and transformed dressing are used to express the deconstructive character in denim.