• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제12권5호
• /
• pp.721-736
• /
• 2004

The aim of this study is to clarify aesthetic values and sociocultural meanings that reappears in contemporary fashion. In order to analyze aesthetic values and symbolic meanings of body decoration, I examined the concepts and expression methods of the body decoration. Also, analyzed external characteristics of expression and its internal meanings that applied in modern fashion. The expressions of body decoration represented in contemporary fashion are classified into direct and indirect methods. The direct method is expressed by tattoos, piercing, henna, make-up and body painting. And, indirect method is expressed by see-through look, body-conscious look and accessories that were utilized its patterns and the material adaptation methods. Such expression of body decoration in the modern fashion was represented into grotesque images and erotic images. The characteristics of grotesque images are abnormal state, hateful animal image and distorted or transformed body and the internal meanings are the pursuit of primitive, exoticism, the pursuit of playfulness, and resistance. The characteristics of erotic images are an exposure of body, see through, body-conscious and androgynous look and the internal meanings are the self-intoxication, naturalism and sexual pleasure.

• 미술이론과 현장
• /
• 제4호
• /
• pp.105-121
• /
• 2006

The term 'modern', in broader sense, refers to the concepts like modernity, modernization, modernism and the like, which came from Westernization impling the recognition of indigenous culture as being inferior to Western culture by comparison along with the expanded influences of the Empire of Japan. These concepts, however, rather than evolving from Western standards, came into being as a form of civilization led by Japan which had already tasted the fruits of modernization by 1920s. Since 1920s, the policy of, so-called, reconstructing Asian countries by Japan came to create eastern way of modernism, as a new East Asian trend mainly revealed in China which was against colonization after Japan's invasion and conquest of Manchuria. Therefore, Eastern' modern' unlike Western one could be understood in the widespread terminology, 'Modern(摩登)' in Shanghai, reflecting consciousness like 'Fashion' or 'Trend' in female images on a variety of visual media. By 1930s it was the most notable that 'modern' was accepted as something similar with 'Fashion', or 'Trend' in sociocultural contexts. These atmosphere had led commercial arts to enable to communicate with the public in a great deal of supports and success in Shanghai which was widely regarded as the citadel for the inflow of Western culture, among which transformations in female images were remarkable as a representative form of culture. It is also remarkable that 'historical modernity' transforming from the feudal age to modern society was considered a synchronic modernity, and nationalism was regarded as a sort of being modern, while involved in the newly-changed female images as a fashion mode. Changes in fashion including hair style in Shanghai by 1930s, as a way of expressions showing what was modern through commercial artistic productions, were easily noticed in visual media as an outlet of modern women's inner desire revealing their pursuit for new mode of life in metropolitan cities. As a characteristic of the time creating a new code of visual female images, it is notable that there existed another form of 'modern' satisfying socio-cultural needs of the general public seeking for being 'modern'.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권4호
• /
• pp.18-29
• /
• 2007

Since its birth, "Little black dress" that has been prospering and reviving continually for 80 years, is always favored as classical fashion item. This study focuses on how the "Little black dress", regarded as the beginning of the modern fashion, could become an eternal item over a century by analyzing the aesthetical characteristics of it. Thus, we can better understand the modern women and aesthetic value of modern fashion. The precedented studies and literatures are reviewed for recognizing the development of "Little black dress," and the scope of this study is limited only after the year 2000. Also, fashion work collections and various domestic and international fashion magazines are analyzed demonstratively. After the Little Black Dress was born with the bullish black color in the year 2000, the aesthetic characteristics of the newly spotlighted Little Black Dress in the modern fashion are as the following. First is modernism. Modern style of black dress is appeared through simple and moderate expressions such as pursuit of simple line, minimization of decoration and exclusion of accessories. Second is sensuality that emphasizes flashiness of black by gloss or see-through fabric and exposing one's body parts or dress that exposes body's curves not only express women's physical attraction but also show off woman's social status or roles. Third is feminism. Ruffle, ribbon, flowing-like fabric, and rhythmical details express charms of sophisticated and trendy women as well as romantic image of girlish sensibility. Fourth is hybridism. Experimental and creative thinking like designers' unique re-interpretation of "little black dress," fresh view to sexuality, breaking up of the existing principle of clothing compositions give wholly new aesthetic value.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제12권6호
• /
• pp.918-932
• /
• 2004

Fashion is a product of form expressing the socio-cultural mood and aesthetic value of an age. Owing to development of the mass media and diversification of arts under the influence of post-modernism in the 20th century, fashion has been more briskly expressed to be presented to the people. With such basic conceptions in mind, this study was aimed at reviewing the fashion photography as visual medium. To this end, visual narrative techniques were analyzed and thereupon, Philip-Lorca diCorcia's fashion photography was examined. This study reviews such visual narrative techniques by dividing into visual and non-visual elements and thereby, examines the three-fold aspects of fashion photography expressions : Representative Level, Ground Level and Context Level. Also this study focuses on Philip-Lorca diCorcia's fashion photography in 'W magazine' which features portfolio form. This study analyzed the visual narratives shown in fashion photography and thereby, expand in diverse ways the fixed images of the conventional fashion photography commercials featuring beautiful models and exquisite costumes, and additionally, determined that fashion photography must be a kind of expression tool which could express not only the simple fashion but also the socio-psychological elements inherent in fashion.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제32권3호
• /
• pp.438-451
• /
• 2024

The interlacing technique has a long history of use as a means of creative expression and persists in modern society to satisfy the individual pursuit of pastimes. This method has the developmental potential to create new trends in the future. Interlacing techniques (e.g., basketry, plaiting, braiding, and knotting) are closely related to plastic arts fields, architecture, art, and industrial design where the various interlacing practices are applied. This research uses case analysis to study the types of expression found in the formative art field wherein the interlacing technique is applied. Results reveal several expressions, including optical illusion visual type, relief surface type, porous perspective type, and object borrowing type, all of which appeared in fashion bags. The aesthetic formativeness, which appeared in the fashion bags that applied interlacing techniques, was then classified according to geometric formative beauty in a process based on rules and order. Nature-friendly formative beauty reflecting handicraft locality and omnidirectional formative beauty by disordered deconstruction and heterogeneous combination were determined. The use of interlacing techniques that show creative, unique combinations and variations is expected to inspire the development and application of bag design that suits individual and original modern fashion trends. One limitation of this thesis is that it only studied cases appearing in modern fashion bags.

• 복식
• /
• 제59권8호
• /
• pp.152-165
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study was to expand the expression of Fashion Illustration using Lenticular imaging process. In the 2-dimensional pictures, Lenticular imaging process can be effective to make multiple, virtual and variable images, which are assumed the main characteristics of modern Fashion Illustration. For this study, the main characteristics of digital based fashion trend and Fashion Illustration were analyzed. The main characteristics of digital based fashion were 'Interaction, Variableness, Virtuality, Multiples and Hyper-text' which were related with Simulacre thinking. The main characteristics of expression in Fashion Illustration were 'Virtuality and Multiples'. The image of 'Variableness' was an important factor in digital based fashion, but it was restricted within Fashion Illustration because of the 2-dimensional picture. Therefore, the Lenticular imaging process was proposed as an effective method to expand 2-dimensional limit, giving an effect of 'Variableness' in Fashion Illustration. Based on this study, 5 illustration works were proposed. The Lenticular imaging process was applied in making the images of 'Virtuality, Multiples and Variableness' in 5 works. The result of this study can be a basic material to understand the characteristics of modern Fashion Illustration as a meaningful sub-culture, and diverse expressions corresponding with the phases of the times.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제33권9호
• /
• pp.1430-1440
• /
• 2009

This study is on the abstract expressionist techniques among the art activities variously expressed in modern fashion. Its significance lies in making fashion artistic through the combination of fashion and art in contributing to the development of creative fashion culture. In terms of method, documents are used to characterize the concept of abstract expressionism, the works of representative artists, and the panting techniques in relation to modem art based on existing literature. Fashion-related anthology, domestic, and foreign fashion magazines were used to analyze the abstract expressionism applied to modern fashion since 2000. According to the findings, the abstract expressionism applied to modern fashion showed artistic expressions with the abstract beauty by chance, using only the images or techniques similar to those in abstract expressionism. Expressionist works had abstract and dynamic images, as they were given a third dimension through the process of being worn on the human body. Second, details or decorative factors were excluded to ensure the maximum space for expression, modem images were displayed using the simple forms such as silhouettes (spacious or dense) and the beauty of harmony was shown that had beauty emphasized by the expression effects of textile design, the division of space, and the composition of colors. Third, the action painting techniques in modern fashion were used for textile designs printed on the surface of clothes, and the dynamic character of the design was shown by the duplication and juxtaposition of stains created by chance. The color field abstract techniques were shown through printing, texture, and dying, in addition the intense and pure abstract images were displayed by treating clothes like large screens.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제4권1호
• /
• pp.143-153
• /
• 2002

Fashion has been analyzed and explained in diverse ways. Fashion, like every phase of culture, is a reflection of the Zeitgeist. In order to understand the changing fashion we must understand the changing society. For fashion of a period are expressions of the interrelation of the various elements of the culture, including the social and political values, the economic and industrial progress, art, the development of technology, etc... Particularly fashion is closely connected with a style of art. In a style of art, futurism focused on the "dynamism" resulting from super-speed and high-technology. This study aimed to review literatures, fashion magazines, web-site in order to know how the dynamism of futurism is expressed in modern fashion. The results of this study were as follows; 1. Dynamism was expressed by means of lines, colors, patterns through the eyesights visually. Asymmetrical oblique lines, zig-zag lines or bold cutting expressed the mechanical and offensive dynamism. In contrast, such lines as curves and spirals expressed the soft and natural dynamism. Primary colors or complementary contrast expressed energetic and rhythmical dynamism. The geometrical patterns and automobile wheels patterns expressed dynamism resulting from mechanical aesthetics. 2. Dynamism was expressed through repeat of lines, colors, patterns, and textiles. Particularly Vinyl material, fluorescent material, metallic material, beads, and spangle expressed a strong dynamism. On the other hand, natural materials, paper and other similar ones are used to signify the orientation towards a futuristic high-technology society.y society.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권9호
• /
• pp.24-36
• /
• 2006

The consumption became a virtue of social in 20th century, and this consumption culture created an ideal body image through mass media. Sexual image became a new standard of 'beauty' in a modern fashion, and designs which expressed sexual image appear every season. Individuals were fascinated with some parts of human body. These body parts are different based on the time period and the culture that the individual belonged to. This study focused on the erotic body parts and expression on the editorial fashion photography. Eroticism represented in the editorial fashion photographs can be divided into the expression by clothing design and by creating erotic atmospheres. Erotic expressions by clothing design can be presented by 1)exposing directly 2)exposing indirectly 3)emphasizing the body parts. The most frequently presented erotic body parts in fashion photographs were legs(25%), followed by the bodice with breast (21%), the waist (16%), the hip (12%), neck & shoulder (10%), arms (9%), and abdomen (7%). The results indicated that legs were considered to be a erotic body parts often than the traditionally referred erotic body parts, such as bodice with breast or hip. While direct exposing method (e.g., adhesion, see-though) was frequently used for other body parts.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제8권1호
• /
• pp.155-168
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study focusing on the gather decorations shown in the modern fashion was to review needlework techniques and design features of gather decorations and thereupon, analyze the aesthetic characteristics of gather decorations shown in designers' works to examine the gather decoration trend in today's fashion. First, the decorative features of gather decorations different from the conventional costumes are shirring, lace and trimming combined or shirring repeated. Second, in view of sensualism, the gather decorations seem to play a role of enhancing the exposure as a mode of expression, while the indirect exposure or beach is mixed with the materials to widen the range of gather decoration expressions. Third, in terms of history, the conventional decorative techniques are combined with new techniques and materials to create a fantastic and romantic mood different from the conventional costumes. Fourth, in view of rhythms, the wave line of the rim for gather decorations serves to express some vivid effects; on the human body, its monotonous plane repetition will turn into a new expression or a voluminous physical sense of motion. However, since expressions or meanings of the gather decorations are much diversified, they should not be regarded as simple decoration details. Our modern designers searching for new expression of creases use unique structural forms to explore the possibility of creative gather decorations. In all, since gather decorations seem to be significant as unique details conducive to a structural pragmatism and aesthetics, it is deemed necessary to continue to develop gather decorations.