• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.39-48
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• 2017

Transfer printing is a method to combine printing and dyeing technology by the use of sublimation. It is an environmentally-friendly printing method that saves costs, reduces the production processes by the omission of the washing process, and saves time by maintaining quality. Due to the development of transfer printing, a high value added printing technology is available now but color fastness to sublimation of the printing products is still low since there are few dyes that have an affinity to the fabrics and the application technology is still inadequate. Specially, in case of high concentration black dyes, eco-label type black dyes, which is a substitution for general dispersal dyes, have been developed while general dispersal black dyes are still used, creating issues such as color differences on the surface and back side of the fabrics and contamination by friction after transfer printing. There are also some restricted substances such as allergens. To address these issues, high concentration black dyes and application technology that are environmentally-friendly and that have over 16 K/S through the use of single dyes with excellent color fastness, fixation ability, and similar melting temperature were developed for this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.167-176
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• 1978

The effect of additives in final rinse water during laundering on soiling, soil removal and some properties of fabrics has been studied with various fabrics. The additives examined were fabric softener (Sta-Puf), cationic surfactant (Apole PS), sizing materials such as CMC, PYA, cornstarch and mixture of CMC and cationic surfactant. The results obtained may be summerized as follows. L Addition of additives except PVA in final rinse water generally reduce the deposition of carbon-$CCl_4$ soil and it seems to be rather independant of the concentration of additives. The effect of additives on soil resistant is found to increase in the following order. cotton; Apole

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.989-1004
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics of the pigment and the dyeability of juniperus chinensis needles, berry, bark and heartwood extracts using distilled water, methanol, normal butanol and ethyl acetate as a solvent. Ultraviolet-visible absorption spectrum bands of the extracts were measured at around 280nm to 320nm in all the solvent extracts. The maximum absorption wavelength was able to determine tannin. All the solvent extracts except for distilled water extracts were able to confirm the presence of chlorophyll. Infrared absorption spectra (FT-IR) of all parts of the extracts showed broad absorption bands of OH due to phenolic-OH, benzene CH peak of phenol chemical structure, ether-based stretching vibration peak and the peak of flavonoid compounds that appeared in all the solvent extracts. The yield of juniper needles and heartwood in distilled water and methanol extraction were effective. Extraction of berry yields in distilled water was also effective. The yield of ethanol extraction from the bark showed better efficiency. As a result of using distilled water for the dye solution, the color of the fabrics dyed with all extracts of the needles and Y series berries generally showed light Y progression with a strong red tinge. By using a mixture of 20% ethanol and 80% distilled water for the dye solution, the color of the fabrics dyed with needles and berry extracts showed Y series dominantly. The color of the fabrics dyed with Bark and heartwood extracts were dominantly R series.

• Journal of the Korea Computer Graphics Society
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.15-24
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• 2020

We present a supervised learning method that estimates the simulation parameters required to simulate the fabric from the static drape shape of a given fabric sample. The static drape shape was inspired by Cusick's drape, which is used in the apparel industry to classify fabrics according to their mechanical properties. The input vector of the training model consists of the feature vector extracted from the static drape and the density value of a fabric specimen. The output vector consists of six simulation parameters that have a significant influence on deriving the corresponding drape result. To generate a plausible and unbiased training data set, we first collect simulation parameters for 400 knit fabrics and generate a Gaussian Mixed Model (GMM) generation model from them. Next, a large number of simulation parameters are randomly sampled from the GMM model, and cloth simulation is performed for each sampled simulation parameter to create a virtual static drape. The generated training data is fitted with a log-linear regression model. To evaluate our method, we check the accuracy of the training results with a test data set and compare the visual similarity of the simulated drapes.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.7
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• pp.1030-1039
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• 1999

The effect of surfactant mixture 9on detergency and soil redeposition in a dry-cleaning system was investigated employing Aerosol OT as an anionic surfactant and Span 80 as a nonionic surfactant. The effect of charge system on soil deposition was also investigated in order to determine the optimum condition at which soil redeposition is minimum,. Soil deposition instead of soil redeposition on cotton, polyester and wool fabrics was measured employing petroleum solvent and perchloroethylene as organic solvents. The results were as follows. 1. Surface tension or interfacial tension was not changed by the addition of any surfactant or surfactant mixtures. In petroleum solvent however interfacial tension between solrent and water decreased when surfactants were added and increased when surfactants were mixed,. 2. The maximum amount of water solubilization increased as the mole fraction of Aerosol OT increased and more water was solubilized in petroleum solvent than in perchloroethylene. 3. The detergency of cotton was greater and the soil deposition rate was lower in Span 80 solution than in Aerosol OT solution. The soil deposition on cotton fabric decreased when water was solubilized in Aersol OT solution 4. The detergency and soil deposition rate of polyester fabric did not change by the surfactant type of the addition of surfactant mixture and soil deposition rate increased bywater solubilization. 5. Soil deposition on wool fabric was very high when Arosol OT was employed in perchloroethylene and the soil deposition did not change greatly by water solubilization.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics and the mode of deconstructionism expressed in fashion design centering on review of literatures and precedent researches. Through the review of previous studies and various articles, three major features with regard to deconstructionism were found: indeterminacy of meaning, decentralization, and inter -textuality. In fashion, the feature of indeterminacy of meaning expressed by non formula way such as unfinished, layering, obi or straight line cutting and it was divided into unstructured and unorganized factors. The feature of decentralization expressed by disorganization of sex, race, culture and humanism such as trans-gender, third world costume, sub-culture, posthumanism. Last, the feature of inter-textuality expressed by employing the fashion texts more than two simultaneously such as mixture of unmatched or unusual various clothing items, fabrics, patterns and styles. Non formality features in fahsion which divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors. The decentering of meaning means that disorganized the existing concepts of sex, race, culture and humanism features in fashion which divided into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, the feature of inter-textuality means that employed the fashion text more than two which is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Unstructured factors were expressed by destroying the design principles such as balance, harmony and unit in fashion. Unconstructed factors were expressed by ignoring the basic costume structures and components in fashion. Cross-gender was expressed by manish and duality style in fashion and 3rd world costume was expressed by folk costume style. Anti fashion was expressed by anti aesthetics in fashion such as kitch, punk, and hippie styles. Post-human was expressed by futurism and the 4th Sex style in fashion. Mixing mode were expressed by mixture of item, and unmatched materials and pattern in fashion. Mixture of style were expressed by mixture of pastiche expression of various styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.651-658
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• 2008

Conjoint analysis estimates how much each of the attributes is valued on the basis of the choices consumers make among product concepts that are varied in systematic ways. The purposes of this research were to evaluate the relative importance of each fabric constituent characteristic for the consumer's utility or preference, to compare with the relative importance between the trained and the untrained panelists, and to identify the combinations of the constituent characteristic of knit fabric which offer consumers greater utility. Conjoint analysis was conducted using data taken from 54 trained and 54 untrained panelists, who rated preference for 12 different knit fabrics. The stitch length had a greater effect on knit fabric preference than the mixture ratio of fiber. There was no difference on effect of knit constituent characteristics for preference between the trained and the untrained panelists. Total, trained and untrained group preferred a knit fabric that had a higher acrylic mixture ratio and a short stitch length.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.173-179
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• 2010

In this study, we determine the stretch and shrinkage properties of conjugated yarns. The shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) were determined by applying twist conditions of 0, 350, 800, 1000, 1200, 1400, 1600, 2000 T/M (twisting per meter). It is found that the shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) gradually decreased with increasing T/M. Especially the elasticity(%) dramatically decreased over 1400 T/M condition. In contrast, it is showed that the handle and drapery properties decreased below 1000 T/M, which indicates that the optimal T/M condition could be 1000~1400. The effect of shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) with different steam setting temperatures (60, 70, 80 and $90^{\circ}C$) was also determined. The shrinkage(%) decreased with increasing setting temperature, while the elasticity not changed. In this context, the optimal steam setting temperature could be $80^{\circ}C$ because it is not easy to weave with the yarns which was set below $80^{\circ}C$. The elasticity(%) decreased with increasing the density of warp and weft. To produce soft handle, excellent drapery and good stretch fabrics, the warp density needs to be reached by 90% of the ideal warp density. In the case of NaOH treatments to the fabrics, the elasticity(%) increased with increasing weight reduction. Therefore, this study have demonstrated that the conjugated yarns with core yarn and the SDY CD(cation dyeable spindraw yarn) as an effect yarn would be appropriate to produce excellent mixture-yarn, which displays clean appearance, good handle and excellent elasticity, The optimized conditions are as follows; 1000~1200 twist per meter, $80^{\circ}C$ steam setting temperature, 90% of ideal warp density and relaxation condition treated with 5g/l NaOH concentration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.31-37
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• 1977

The effects of surfactants and concentration of NaOH in surfactant solution on the removal of free fatty acid soil from cotton fabrics were investigated. Cotton fabrics were soiled with palm itic acid which is the most common fatty acid found in natural oily soil and washed in Lauder-ometer with various types of surfactant with or without NaOH. The rate of soil removal was estimated by analyzing palmitic acid contents in fabric before ar d after washing. Analysis of palmitic contents was made by extracting palmitic acid with azeotropic mixture of alcohol-benzene and the extracts were titrated with standard NaOH solution. It was shown that the types of surfactant are important factor in free fatty acid removal and the efficiency increases in the following order: SLS$90\%$ of initial sorption. In relation to the mechanism of detergency, the suspending and emulsifying power of surfactants were also examined. From the results of this experiments, it could be concluded that the soap formation with alkali and the suspending power of surfactant arc significant factors in free fatty acid soil removal, but the emulsifying power of it is neglizible.