• Title/Summary/Keyword: mixed dyeing

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Types and Characteristics of Skirts of Minority Races in Yunnan Province (운남 지역 소수민족 치마의 조형적 특성)

  • Kim Hye-Young;Cho Woo-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.7 no.3
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    • pp.167-179
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    • 2005
  • Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

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A Study on the Costumes in the Dong A II Bo - $1920{\sim}1945$ - (동아일보(東亞日報)에 나타난 복식연구(服飾硏究))

  • Son, Myong-Im;Kim, Jin-Goo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.14
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    • pp.145-165
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    • 1990
  • This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

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Effects of Mixing Ratio of Substrates and Concentration of Fertigation in Nutrient Solutions on the Early Growth of Cucumber Plug Seedlings (배지의 혼입비율과 관비 양액 농도가 오이 플러그묘의 초기생장에 미치는 영향)

  • Kim, Hong-Gi;Cho, Ja-Yong;Bae, Jong-Hyang;Yang, Seung-Yul;Heo, Buk-Gu
    • Journal of Bio-Environment Control
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    • v.16 no.2
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    • pp.101-107
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    • 2007
  • This experiment was carried out to develop the substrate mixtures for the production of high quality plug seedlings of cucumber. Peatmoss based substrates, rice hull, carbonized rice hull, decomposed sawdust, perlite and granular rockwool were mixed by five different mixing ratioes (M1, M2, M3, M4 and M5). The cultivars used were cucumber (Cucumis sativus L. cv. Janghyung heukjinju) plants. The higher the content of peatmoss added, the higher the plant growth in terms of plant height, leaf area and total dry weight, which leading to the production of high quality plug seedlings. Seedlings growth of cucumber were greater in M5 mixtures [peatmoss:rice hull:decomposed sawdust=40:40:20(v/v)], M4 mixtures [peatmoss:rice hull:decomposed sawdust:granular rockwool=30:25:20:25(v/v)] and M2 mixtures [peatmoss:rice hull:decomposed sawdust:granular rockwool=20:20:15:25:20(v/v)] The concentrations of nutrient solution (EC) had a great influence on plant height, leaf area, total fresh and dry weight of cucumber seedlings growth. As the concentration of nutrient solution increased from 0.1 to $1.5dS{\cdot}m^{-1}$, the growth and seedling quality of cucumber in plant height, leaf area and dry weight were significantly improved.

A Study on the Paper Clothing -on the basis of handmade paper- (종이 의상에 관한 연구 - 수제지를 중심으로 -)

  • 이주실;김정혜
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.44
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    • pp.181-199
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    • 1999
  • The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.

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Chronological Concentration Change of Five Chemical Substances in Manufacturing Industry of Busan Area (부산지역 일부 제조업 산업장의 기중 5가지 화학물질의 경시적 농도 변화)

  • Park, Joon Jae;Sun, Byong Gwan;Son, Byung Chul;Moon, Deog Hwan
    • Journal of Korean Society of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.68-80
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    • 2006
  • This study aimed to prepare the fundamental data and assess the status and trend of exposure level for 5 chemical substances such as sulfuric acid, hydrogen chloride, ammonia, formaldehyde and phenol in manufacturing industry by type of industry, working process, and size of factory, chronological change. Subjects related to this study consist of 146 factories, 12 industries and 17 working processes located in Busan area from Jan. 1997 to Dec. 2001. 1. All 5 kinds of chemical substances by type of industry, working process were generated in chemical manufacturing industry. There were founded in 8 types of industries and 13 types of working processes for ammonia, which is the highest number of in all 5 chemical substances. 2. In terms of the exposure level for 5 chemical substances by type of industry, working process, geometric mean concentration for sulfuric acid was $0.40mg/m^3$ in manufacture of chemicals and chemical products, $0.30mg/m^3$ in compounding process, for hydrogen chloride was 0.57 ppm in manufacture of basic metal, 0.48 ppm in dyeing process, for ammonia was 1.11 ppm in manufacture of rubber and plastic products, 0.94 ppm in buffing process, for formaldehyde was 0.49 ppm in manufacture of wood and of products of wood and cork, except furniture; manufacture of articles straw and plating materials, 0.53 ppm in mixing process, and for phenol were 0.53 ppm in manufacture of chemical and chemical products, 0.55 ppm in compounding process, respectively. Results for 5 chemical substances by type of industry and working process were significantly higher than those of the others(p<0.05). 3. The exposure level for hydrogen chloride, formaldehyde were significantly increased by size of industry (p<0.01). ammonia was significantly decreased by size of industry (p<0.01). 4. In trend of the concentration difference of five chemical substances by chronology, geometric mean concentration for sulfuric acid was significantly increased (p<0.01), hydrogen chloride and ammonia were significantly decreased by year (p<0.05) and for formaldehyde and phenol were decreased in chronological change. According to the above results 5 chemical substances were founded together in a way mixed in the same places one another and concentrations of chemical substances by industry, working process, size of industry and year appeared markedly. The authors recommend more systemic and effective work environmental management should be conducted in workplaces generating five chemical substances.

Geochemical and Isotopic Study of the Kumho River (금호강 하천수의 지구화학 및 동위원소 연구)

  • Kim, Yeong-Kyoo;Nam, Eun-Kyung
    • Economic and Environmental Geology
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    • v.42 no.6
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    • pp.527-539
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    • 2009
  • The Kumho River flows through volcanic and sedimentary rocks at upstream and downstream regions and also through industrial district including dyeing complex before it meets the Nakdong River, and as a result, many factors can influence the geochemistry of river water. The concentrations of dissolved ions generally increased as it flows downstream. The concentrations of cations are in the order of Ca>Na>Mg>K, and those of anions are $HCO_3$>$SO_4$>Cl>$NO_3$. These results show that the weathering of sandstone and shale containing carbonate including calcite caused the enrichment of Ca and $HCO_3$. At first 4 sampling sites, Si contents are relatively high mainly due to the weathering of silicate minerals of volcanic rocks. However, Na and $SO_4$ contents are higher at downstream sites due to the industrial and municipal sewage. Piper diagram also shows that the geochemical patterns changed from Ca-$HCO_3$ to Ca-Cl/Ca-$SO_4$ and Na-Cl/Na-$SO_4$ type. When comparing the samples collected in May and July, the concentrations of dissolved ions in July are generally lower than those in May, which indicates that dilution by precipitation played an important role. In July the relative concentration of Ca increased, indicating that Ca in soils probably from fertilizer were mixed into the river water by precipitation. The river waters are mainly from precipitation. The dissolved ions are mainly from weathering of carbonate minerals and pollutants from municipal sewage and discharged water from industrial complex. The composition of oxygen and deutrium isotope in July showed higher values, which is contrary to the amount effect, maybe due to Youngchon Dam. The nitrogen isotope showed lower values in July than those in May, which can be interpreted to indicate mixing of nitrate from soils and fertilizer in the cultivated land by the heavy rain. The isotope composition of nitrate increased downstream, indicating that the influence of sewage and animal manure also increased downstream.