• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제21권3호
• /
• pp.581-588
• /
• 1997

Since 1950 postmodernism shows strong influences in literature, architektuTe, art, clothing and other social and cultural fields. It's main conceptswere individual, pluralistic, unconven- tional and deconstruction of social values. The purpose of thisstudy was to review the influence of postmodernism to German clothing for youth. To achieve this purpose, raga- zinesfor youth ("BKAVO") from 1959 to 1994 surveyed including a number of interviews. The characterizations of postmodernism in fashion are as follows: Sport Clothing has an effect on Oaily Clothing. Exotic phenomenon from south america, africa, asia shows strong in fashion. Subculture(Rocker, Hippie, Punker) is as anti-culture sylnbolically expressed in young fashion which is diffrent from mother-fashion. This appeard in Germany in the 50s, 60san6 70s. However, sub-culture-look in the 80s and 90s is presented only in outer style. It does'nt show any symbolic meanings. "Bricolage" ("mix and match") -concept was appeard in 60s and 70s only in fashion of subculture group. This concept generalized in standard fashion in 80s and 90s.andard fashion in 80s and 90s.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제22권6호
• /
• pp.873-889
• /
• 2014

The goals of this study are to analyze how fashion professionals' attitudes toward Grunge style have changed since the 1990s and to compare aesthetic features of 1990s Grunge style and the style since 2000. By searching Vogue and Women's Wear Daily articles from 1992 to 2014 according to the keyword "Grunge", three collections from the 1990s and 59 collections since 2000 were selected for analysis. Although Grunge collections of the 1990s were harshly criticized by critics and retailers as ugly, the more recent collections have been highly praised for both design and profitability. The common aesthetic features of Grunge style in the 1990s and beyond include loose silhouettes, mix-and-match layerings, plaid patterns, floral prints, and striped patterns. However, Grunge style since 2000 has new features such as ornate fabrics, handcrafted details, a formal and dressy look, and faux plaid flannel shirts in chiffon or organza. These features give the style a more luxurious, feminine, and refined appearance. The results of this study indicate that Grunge style of the 1990s changed high fashion beauty standards and today's designers and consumers prefer to mix various styles to create new ones. They typically do not consider the original spirit or identities of the varied styles.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제23권4호
• /
• pp.24-37
• /
• 2019

This study focused on the fashion designer brand 'Alexander McQueen' to determine how butterflies are used in modern fashion through the sensibilities of certain designers. To this end, both a literature review and empirical research were conducted. First, we examined the origin of the word and appearance characteristics of butterflies based on prior research and a book, and also surveyed the tendencies used by the fashion designer brand Alexander McQueen. Second, out of 239 items announced by the fashion designer brand "Alexander McQueen" RTW (Ready to Wear) ranging from the S/S Collection in 2008 to the 2018-9 F/W collection, 73 pieces deemed to be fashion using butterfly images were collected through www.samsung.net and www.firstview.com, then analyzed based on timing and aesthetic characteristics. Results. The analysis by time period was divided into fantasy, handicraft, mix and match, and aesthetic characteristics shown in the order of compromise beauty, rhythmical beauty, and voluptuous beauty. The purpose of this study was to determine how butterflies are expressed in fashion based on the sensibility of a specific designer in modern fashion, the fashion designer brand 'Alexander McQueen'. Based on the results of this study, we hope that the information presented herein on fashion of natural images will serve as a basic material for similar research or design ideas as an example of designs based on butterfly images.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제12권6호
• /
• pp.715-722
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of 'slow' fashion style expressed on fashion magazine in pursuit of sociocultural paradigm change towards 'slowness'. As for the research methodology, content analysis for Vogue magazine has been undertaken. The results of this study can be summarized as followings. First, the concern toward eco-friendly ethics has been involving simple style which is long-lasting, junky style which is reused or recycled, and sustainable style which is motived by nature. Second, the interest toward local diversity has been involving ethnic exotic style which is inspired by global culture and vintage retro style which is applied the old tradition. Third, the attention toward self-made has been involving personal style which is produced through the process such as made-to-measure, made-to-order and reform. Also, anonymous dresses can be personalized easily under mix-n-match. In Conclusion, the 'slow' fashion characteristics has been expressed on contemporary mass fashion in various way and the 'slow' fashion would be expected to improve in accordance with the change toward sociocultural paradigm of 'slowness'.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제16권5호
• /
• pp.689-697
• /
• 2014

This study aims to analyze the representation forms of bloggers' personal style on the fashion blogs and enlighten their values which can be actively applied to design and marketing in fashion industry. Image representation of fashion bloggers is reflected by the characteristics in the digital environment, which are the creative manipulation of expression and the production of virtual and fantastic images by taking advantage of the composite medium such as images, music, videos, articles, etc. Also real time updates in blog indicate the latest trends in terms of the representation of image as the actual currency. The study conducted case studies of 5 women's personal fashion blogs through the verification of a variety of global fashion media and blog ranking sites: Style Bubble, Style Rookie, The Cherry Blossom Girl, The Blond Salad, and Fashion Toast. Research findings are as follows. First, the application of creative design elements is indicated as symbolic items, self-made designs, DIY, and various mix and match emphasizing design elements such as color, patterns, proportion, etc. Second, the virtual representation is very highlighted on the story telling applied by film like production or digital effect. Third, the commercial application with mainly sponsored wardrobe and designer collaboration indicates promoting a updated trend as well as a specific brand or designer to make their business profits.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제23권2호
• /
• pp.115-132
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study was to suggest multiple directions of fashion design by producing differentiated athleisure fashion designs with functional materials based on existing sportswear. A design utilizing handcraft skill was developed by applying the design characteristics of Laszlo Moholy-Nagy's paintings. With respect to the study methods, the background of Laszlo Moholy-Nagy's paintings were analyzed and their historical background was investigated by employing previous studies and literature review. The design characteristics were classified by issue and time-period. The results are as follows; First, the feasibility of creative artwork expression was found by pursuing collaboration with artwork and fashion by applying the motives of the fashion with the characteristics by the times, lines, forms, colors, and overlapping in Moholy-Nagy's paintings. Second, athleisure fashion, which can mix-match with casual wear, was found to enhance not only creativity but also add value by applying design, which added multiple handcraft elements, as well as characteristics of functionality, aesthetics, practicality, appealability, ostentation, activity, and dynamism. Third, potential harmony was found with achromatic and chromatic colors that can express more dynamic and active images. Based on the study results, further studies are anticipated using multiple paintings.

• 복식
• /
• 제51권5호
• /
• pp.113-134
• /
• 2001

This study was carried out with an objective to prepare the framework of conformity for the 21st century modern fashion, which is interactive with mankind, based on a position that the 21st century contemporary fashion with its amalgamating trend of diversified artistic forms may not be elucidated on a standpoint centering on one certain modality. The hybrid fashion trend of historical modality which provides freedom and satisfaction in creation of an individuals expressive power in expressing true desire of mans inside through man-centered thought of the times has made multifarious motives of the past and present fragmentary. It thus extracts inner divisions and the concept of consolidation through three-dimensional form. Modern fashion is newly interpreted by the material and details of high technologies. and is harmonized by mix and match with various expressions. By having it, it is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments. Modern fashion is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments by new interpretations with the material and details of high technologies and by being harmonized with mix and match with various expressions. The hybrid fashion design trend of regional elements formed by stimuli and contacts of diverse local culture by globalization of network that was achieved by scientific technologies of the contemporary information society has disintegrated varied boundaries in the conventional culture by the latest communication technology-new media on the basis of newly created culture. The fact that regional elements could be expressed as if they were interrelated without each being deprived of originality may be explained with an interpretation on pluralism. The hybrid fashion design trend of cultural aspect, which manifests in the background of scientific technological culture as it transcends the societal-cultural boundaries based on the de-centralization theory of Frederic Jameson, has supplemented the imperfect meanings through conversional correlation with other forms and internal program changes. The middle stratal and polyhedral characteristics are seen as each cultural element is dismantled and reassembled by application of 'multiple-time point expression'. Design forming method is not to bring destruction from outside, but to embrace instability and chaos through radical dismantling of the inside. and to pursue diversity and openness. Thus. it is implemented by an approach that takes the role of design process. In communication of discontinuity, continuity was dismantled through forms of mixing, overlap, perversion, insertion and coincidence.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제23권4호
• /
• pp.581-594
• /
• 2015

The emergence of pop art in the 1960s exerted a profound impact on integrating art into the real lives of the general public, which continues in the current area of culture of post-industrial society. Thus, this study aims to attempt the popularization and modernization of Korean images by applying the concept of pop art to the development of a national symbolic image. This study utilized Mugunghwa, Taegeukgi, and the Great Seal, which are national symbolic images that establish the identity of Korea through differentiation, universality, and visual formativeness. It then proceeded with the development of neo-pop art motives and patterns using national symbolic images from the standpoint of symbolism, mix-match, and repetitiveness from among the characteristics of neo-pop art. This study carried out pattern design by departmentalizing each characteristic according to the standpoint of neo-pop art through scribbles composed of the following: Signs, pictograms, and childlike characters; drawing simplification for symbolism; a mix of the East and the West; a mix of subfashion and subculture for mix-match; the repetition of lines, characters, and icons; and the exaggeration and grotesqueness of characters and icons for repetitiveness. This study is expected to serve as momentum for raising the cultural value of Korea and for the development of a pattern design capable of achieving worldwide competitiveness through the combination of the permanence and continuity of national symbols with the popular universality of pop art.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제17권6호
• /
• pp.158-175
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information to Korean fashion designers who wish to advance to the overseas collection. This is done through analyzing the design characteristics of Japanese young fashion designers, Tsumori Chisato, Commuun, and Limi Feu, who have successfully launched their designs into the Paris collection and became global fashion brands. Collections of each brand were analyzed by the overall fashion style and design elements. For the overall fashion style, Tsumori Chisato used a romantic style using details with various ornaments, whereas Commuun shows minimal style with a simple silhouette. Limi Feu expressed avant-garde style with experimental patterns. Moreover, these brands expressed different style to other brands by applying Japanese traditional clothes, patterns, and Japanese techniques in modern view point. In terms of design elements, these three brands used the H-line silhouette. Tsumori Chisato used loose fit; Commuun, slim line; and Limi Feu, boxy silhouette. In the case of colors, materials, patterns and details, Tsumori Chisato showed mix & match with various colors, materials, patterns and details. Commuun used mono tone with black & white using only one or two materials. Limi Feu usually used the color black with cotton. According to the style of the brand and region of the collection, the main characteristics of the design and the application of Japanese traditional elements can be different.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제18권2호
• /
• pp.14-28
• /
• 2014

This study analyzed the group of experts who were related to cubism, selected among the works of 2010~2013 Paris Collection based on F.G.R.(Focus Group Research). According to the results of this study, there were appeared first, 'a one-piece dress' second, 'H silhouette' third, 'cotton', in case of item distribution and frequency. The analysis was done by using the manner of expression, cubical expression, exaggeration, distortion, dismantlement, geometrical division of face, mix-match look, wraparound repetition, asymmetric structure, etc. Based on the outcomes of the analysis on figurative design elements, this study adjusted three manners appearing on cubism fashion style. First, it was 'avant garde manner' of constitution or 'dismantlement' which was compiled into multi-view representations of overlaps and viewpoints by repetitive use of color tone trimming detail. Second, it was 'geomagnetic block placement' which expresses cubism with geometric partitioning of surface and separation of panel by cutting disintegration. Finally, it was 'distortion and simplification of silhouette' which is a distortion created by constitution-line pressed thin with silhouette. It maximizes the beauty of human body outline, which was distorted by three-dimensional-manipulation, and simplified by ellipsis for another shape for the extension or expansion of detail trimming.