• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.4
• /
• pp.26-40
• /
• 2009

The custom of the flag sticked in a military cap involves the symbolic mark. That is, it makes the procession of an army clear and makes the convenience of activity possible. This custom was uniquely practiced at several countries. At Il dynasty($1258{\sim}1411$), Timurid dynasty($1369{\sim}1508$), Mughal dynasty($1526{\sim}1858$) was succeeded this custom by based on blood relationship for $13th{\sim}16th$ century on the diachronic viewpoint. And these countries have cultural correlation by regional paradigm, namely Islamic cultural area. Meanwhile, this custom of Ming dynasty and joseon dynasty appeared in $15th{\sim}17th$ century as official system. Expecially, one of joseon dynasty maintained for a short time than other countries because of jangpyo[章標] system which was more efficient than the sticked flag. On the synchronic viewpoint, this custom was the common and necessary status quo for the efficient expansion of territory and military management.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.34-40
• /
• 2006

Fascism is a term that began to be used from the late 1930s, means an idea and a system that the strong power of the state intervenes or control people's life based on the argument that the existential value of individuals is found only in the total. Fascist looks, which resulted from World War I and II, had brought a new pattern in women's fashion inspired by men's military uniforms. Thus, the purpose of this study was to identify fascist fashion trends in the first half of the twentieth century and to infer various aesthetic values of fascism expressed in fascist fashion looks. The results of this study indicated that expressions of fascism reflected the current ideology of rebellion and appealed to the original national sentiment of the masses. Fascism occurred in response to the contradiction of capitalism and its general crisis had emerged as an ideology with the highest popularity symbolizing power and government during the first half of the twentieth century. It was expressed in military looks as self-centered nationalism and yearning for minorities. Second, fascist fashion looks were not only for political and sexual temptation with the image of power but also for the display of women's status and roles through the bold expression of sexual attractiveness. Finally, fascist fashion looks expressed medieval images praising the feudal age in imagination that contained heroism and at the same time achieved integration under strict social hierarchical order.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.32 no.2
• /
• pp.73-79
• /
• 2020

Pursuing the fabric materials for military chemical warfare protective clothing with the improved detoxification properties, this study investigated the simple and effective cotton treatment method using pad-dry-cure process and 3-aminopropyltrimethox ysilane(APTMS) solution for surface amination. Detoxification properties of the untreated and treated cotton fabrics were evaluated via decontamination of chemical warfare agent simulant, DFP(diisopropylfluorophosphate). The surface aminated cotton fabric increased the rate of the hydrolysis of DFP by the factor of 3 and the decontamination ratio reached 88.2% after 24h. Therefore, the surface amination of the cotton fabric with APTMS can be an effective pathway to prepare the material for protective clothing against chemical warfare agents.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.21 no.3
• /
• pp.43-48
• /
• 2009

This paper surveys the mechanical properties of nylon high tenacity coarse yarn and fabric for military and technical textiles. For this purpose, 6 kinds of yarns and 2 kinds of fabrics are prepared. The yarn physical properties such as yarn count, thermal shrinkages, and tensile properties are measured and discussed with the characteristics of the domestic and imported yarns. And, the physical and mechanical properties of these fabrics are also measured and discussed with the usage of these fabrics in the military and technical textiles fields. Hereafter, the differences of physical properties between domestic and foreign yarn specimens for high functional military and technical fabrics are estimated through this study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.2
• /
• pp.138-146
• /
• 2008

Opera costumes are a tangible medium to directly affect how opera singers performed. Therefore, stage costumes have been designed in various ways to reflect intentions of directors. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust" which was played in Sung-Nam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the supporting actors are drawn from this study. Martha wore a grey jacket and a long skirt with slash. Grey suit symbolized chastity but tight long skirt with slash means sexy. Valentin wore military and combat uniforms to express that he was a soldier. The military uniform represented the situation before the war and the combat uniform symbolized the situation after the war. Rather short trousers, a white tweed jacket, purple flower ornament, a light green vest, and a beret were used to express Wagner, who looked ridiculous and always tried to flirt. Overalls, a blue jumper, and a scarlet baseball cap were used to make Siebel look naive and homely. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency and meet the audience's needs for various style.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.5
• /
• pp.685-694
• /
• 2016

This study investigates the problems of fitness and motion suitability for Korean male military winter jackets (inner and outer) and provides data for new pattern development. We analyzed fitness and motion suitability by a questionnaire survey with 140 Korean male soldiers and a wearing evaluation with 7 subjects of central army male size. A survey of male soldiers indicated that the fitness and motion suitability satisfaction was over 3.0 (Likert scale) for both inner and outer jackets. There were opinions that the sleeve length was short for the inner jacket and the waist girth and hem girth was slightly large for the outer jacket. In the wearing evaluation results with subjects of central army male size, fitness of total length, sleeve length and collar height showed a score lower than 3.0 for the inner jacket and collar height on the outer jacket. The motion suitability result showed a low score (1.0-2.0) in an arm raising motion for the inner jacket and 2.0-3.0 at neck motion in the outer jacket. In conclusion, there is more dissatisfaction in inner jackets than outer jackets. For the inner jacket, sleeve is short, sleeve hem is narrow, collar height is a little high and the sleeve creeps up during arm motion. The waist girth and hem girth was slightly large and collar height was a little high for the outer jacket.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.9 no.2
• /
• pp.151-156
• /
• 2007

Slashes, deprived from the Crusaders' military uniforms, take their places among the fashion terms in modern fashion, and they are represented with some techniques such as fraying fabrics or making holes. Slashes are also used in various ways across all the fashion areas including clothing to accessaries. Slashes, which were once used to represent a solid body and to make a body move suitably, are used not only to express the formative of clothing but also to allow wearing sensations and functionality to wearers depending on their daily lives and the movements of their activities in modern fashion design. Optical illusions of fashion, image variabilities, functionality and ornamentation, and design principles, which were once represented with materials, colors, and details mainly used in fashion designs, are represented using slashes in modern fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.13 no.4
• /
• pp.478-486
• /
• 2011

This study is to analyze the symbolic images appeared in modern fashion design adopted dualistic meanings in uniforms. Uniforms signify order, conformity and discipline in public life. The dualistic meanings in uniforms appeared modern times are as follows: public authority vs individual non-authority, heterosexual identity vs homosexual identity, time-space uniformity vs mixed diversity. The symbolic images appeared in modern fashion design adopted dualistic meanings in uniforms such as military uniforms, school uniforms, nurses' uniforms, sports uniforms and etc. are erotic image, hybrid image, and kitsch image.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.30 no.1
• /
• pp.20-28
• /
• 2018

The near infrared ray camouflage fabric has a near infrared ray reluctance similar to the surrounding environment and has a camouflage effect on the surrounding environment. Synthetic fibers used in military uniforms are difficult to have gastrointestinal function as general commercial dyes, unlike cellulose fibers, which use some commercial vat dyes to impart infrared gastrointestinal function. In this study, we optimized the adsorption pH, temperature and time for NIR dye application for polyester fabrics, and established the optimum concentration for the evaluation of adsorption build-up characteristics. In addition, it is difficult to adsorb it since the polyester material has a dense crystal structure and the NIR dye is bulky. Therefore, a swelling agent used for dyeing meta-aramid fibers with high Tg and high crystallinity was introduced as a separate preparation to increase the affinity to polyester, which is a hydrophobic fiber, to thereby obtain an excellent adsorption rate. As a result of comparing before and after using swelling agent, the adsorption rate difference was 10 times or more when compared with before.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.34 no.4
• /
• pp.241-249
• /
• 2022

As for military backpacks in Korea, utility backpack products equipped with various functions along with comfort and convenience are being developed. As a result, the volume and weight of the backpack increase, and many lightweight studies of the materials forming the backpack are being conducted. This study is a basic study on frame lightweight using fiber-reinforced composites to deal with aluminum, a back frame that maintains the shape of a backpack and provides stability when worn by combatants. As is known, only fiber-reinforced composites have sufficient light weight and mechanical properties, but the mechanical properties were reviewed by drilling holes to maximize the light weight. Tensile strength and flexural strength were measured by drilling 6mm, 12mm, 18mm, and 24mm holes, and the tensile strength and flexural strength were measured when 1, 3, 5, and 7 holes of 12mm were increased. As a result, even when the number of holes was increased, tensile strength did not change significantly, and the flexural strength showed to be higher in the case of 3 holes and 5 holes than in the case of 1 hole.