• Title/Summary/Keyword: methods of sewing

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A Study of the Historical Reconstruction of the Western Man's Coat in the Early of the 19th Century (19세기 초 서양 남성상의 고증제작 연구)

  • Ryu, Kyung-Hwa;Kim, Yang-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.1
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    • pp.136-149
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    • 2015
  • This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

A Study On Design And Pattern Development For The Uniform Of Female Middle-School Students (국내 여중생을 위한 교복 디자인 및 패턴 개발)

  • Han, Wooshin;Choi, Jeongwook
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.22 no.4
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 2018
  • Unlike other ready-made suits, which are normalized based on aspects like, designs, materials, sewing methods, has to be worn for three years, designing and pattern development of school uniform depends greatly on satisfaction and appearance. Furthermore, school uniform is of importance as many teenagers spend most of their time at school. In the present work, an attempt has been made to suggest ideal school uniform for female middle school students based on their actual uniform conditions and design preferences, so that the demands of artistic aspect, and the requirements of a suitable uniform for a female teenager can be fulfilled. Initially, a survey about the actual wearing condition was held to figure out the actual uniform conditions and design preferences. Based on the result of the survey, two types of school uniform were made with different patterns. Finally, the most ideal school uniform for female middle school students was suggested based on the experiment involving a few aspects such as suitability and functionality. It is conjectured that school uniform survey and investigation, could provide useful information to the school uniform business market.

Comparative Study of Hand-Sutured versus Circular Stapled Anastomosis for Gastrojejunostomy in Laparoscopy Assisted Distal Gastrectomy

  • Seo, Su-Hyun;Kim, Ki-Han;Kim, Min-Chan;Choi, Hong-Jo;Jung, Ghap-Joong
    • Journal of Gastric Cancer
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    • v.12 no.2
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    • pp.120-125
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    • 2012
  • Purpose: Mechanical stapler is regarded as a good alternative to the hand sewing technique, when used in gastric reconstruction. The circular stapling method has been widely applied to gastrectomy (open orlaparoscopic), for gastric cancer. We illustrated and compared the hand-sutured method to the circular stapling method, for Billroth-II, in patients who underwent laparoscopy assisted distal gastrectomy for gastric cancer. Materials and Methods: Between April 2009 and May 2011, 60 patients who underwent laparoscopy assisted distal gastrectomy, with Billroth-II, were enrolled. Hand-sutured Billroth-II was performed in 40 patients (manual group) and circular stapler Billroth-II was performed in 20 patients (stapler group). Clinicopathological features and post-operative outcomes were evaluated and compared between the two groups. Results: Nosignificant differences were observed in clinicopathologic parameters and post-operative outcomes, except in the operation times. Operation times and anastomosis times were significantly shorter in the stapler group (P=0.004 and P<0.001). Conclusions: Compared to the hand-sutured method, the circular stapling method can be applied safely and more efficiently, when performing Billroth-II anastomosis, after laparoscopy assisted distal gastrectomy in patients with gastric cancer.

Fashion Design Study by Whole Cut Way (Whole cut에 의한 패션디자인 연구)

  • Park, You Shin
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.19 no.5
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    • pp.199-212
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    • 2015
  • Environmentally-friendly whole-cut designs can minimize carbon dioxide emissions which are harmful to the earth, and reduce energy, labor force and time in cutting or sewing clothes. The design and way of wearing clothing will be investigated by classifying whole-cut clothing appearing in the history of costume and past traditional outfits such as Drapery, a Pancho, Tunic, or Loincloth. According to the results from the analysis of whole-cut methods applied in design, they were classified as follows: whole-cut, utilizing square-panels as is, pleats, smoking, lip band, origami, cutting way, and subtraction-cutting whole-cut design. The whole-cut design utilizing square panel as it is can minimize the waste of energy and material but can also maximize the possibility of circulation by recycling. In utilizing an all square panel, it broke away from the existing whole-cut in the western pattern, namely, the pattern of clothes clinging to the body, and was found to have new aesthetic value with a new approach. Due to the whole-cut method having a restriction in the use of dart and line cutting in its designing process, there were only designs that did not show the body line, such as designs clinging to the body. Therefore we developed a design similar to those that cling to the body by whole-cut, In addition, the work produced was with high efficiency and variability, which produces simple designs but can be worn in a variety of ways.

An Exploratory Study of Important Information on Consumer Reviews in Internet Shopping (인터넷 쇼핑 시 중요하게 고려하는 의류상품 구매후기 정보에 관한 탐색적 연구)

  • Hong, Hee-Sook;Jin, In-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.35 no.7
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    • pp.761-774
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    • 2011
  • This study investigated the consumer review information considered important by consumers when making a purchase decision to buy apparel products online. Data were collected through focus group interviews. Eleven females in their 20s and 30s, who have extensive experience in reading consumer reviews posted on online apparel stores, participated in the study. The consumer review information considered important by participants is the information related to seven product attributes (size, fabric, design, color, sewing, price, and country of origin), seven benefits (functional, financial, esthetic, emotional, social, utilitarian benefits, and product value compared to price) of the apparel product and four store attributes (return/refund, delivery, reputation/credibility, and customer service). The findings from the study can serve as an important tool in developing survey questions in order to evaluate the quality of consumer review information and help online retailers plan methods to improve the quality of reviews.

An Analysis on Clothing Construction for the Virtual Clothing Simulation of Haenyeo Suits -Analyzing the Characteristics, Product Sizes, and Ease of Jeju Haenyeo Suits- (해녀복 가상착의를 위한 의복구성적 연구 -제주 해녀복의 특징, 제품 치수, 여유분에 대한 분석-)

  • Rani Eom
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.48 no.4
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    • pp.744-755
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    • 2024
  • This study analyzes the characteristics, product dimensions, and ease of haenyeo suits to inform their reproduction. Large, medium, and small haenyeo suits were collected from four manufacturers in Jeju, and their components, cut styles, product dimensions, and ease were analyzed. In the current haenyeo suit design, the upper suit has a collar and a crotch, while the lower suit has a high rise with a gusset. Additionally, there are darts behind the neck in the upper suit and behind the knees in the lower suit. Haenyeo suits have a three-dimensional shape that accommodates the postures needed for haenyeo's underwater activities. The upper suit is finished with a cuffed hem or an uncuffed side seam with a diagonal or stepped cut. The lower suit is cut and sewn with the waist and hem at right angles or with the hem diagonal to the waistline. Haenyeo suit dimensions vary between manufacturers, and the models' body dimensions show that there is little or no ease. In conclusion, haenyeo suit manufacturers currently use the same components; however, they differ in terms of cut styles, sewing methods, dimensions, and designs.

Genealogy of the Rainbow Stripe in Ethnic Costumes in East Asia (동부아시아 민족복식 색동계보)

  • Cho, Woo-Hyun;Kim, Mi-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.4
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    • pp.113-125
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    • 2010
  • This study is purpose to trace a genealogy of Rainbow stripe in 30 ethnic costumes in East Asia. And with through comparative views between Korean and the other minority that is shown a bilateral relation of rainbow stripe in their costume, we make sure the unique character of rainbow stripe in Korean traditional costume. The stripe in the costumes was generally used on sleeves with 3~6 patches. There were 10 types of methods for making the stripe including sewing. Weaving and sewing with trimming was also frequently used either and the stripe by weaving with multicolored yarns were mostly found in the southern region of china. Black, blue and red were frequently used in the costume as a main color that was contrasted with rainbow stripe and especially, black was mostly used. Korean preferred bright colors as a main color. Contents of the genealogy of the multicolored stripe in ethnic costume in East Asia are followed. The 28 ethnic groups who used the stripe in their dress except Korean, the Mans, Mongo people and Tibetan were located in the southern region of East Asia. And the other ethnic groups distributed in the northwest and northeast region of East Asia. The distribution of the rainbow stripe in the costume could be grouped into two sections: the southern region people and Korean-the Mongol people-the Tus- the Zangs group. And the latter group was shown strong relation with the culture of Korean's rainbow stripe costume. 11 ethnic peoples including Korean, the Vis, the Miaos, the Tus, the Mongol people, the Chaoxians, the Zangs, the Lahus, the Jinuos, the Hanis, the Luobas and the Dulongs, were saliently used the stripe in their costume. The stripe in Japanese costume was judged that was not a kind of the rainbow stripe was shown the other ethnic groups, was a color arrangement by layered dress or geometrical pattern. From above, we could recap a particular characteristic of the rainbow stripe in Korean traditional costume. Many colors were used in the stripe and bodies than the other ethnic people and the color was bright. In many cases, a color of patch at the point of armhole was red and Black color was not used in the stripe. The width of patch was a relatively narrow and regular. It has shown that the rainbow stripe in Korean traditional costume was organized independently.

Comparison of Meal Management Attitudes among Housewives between in Industrial Complex and in Non-Industrial Complex on Ansan City in Korea (일부 공단 지역 가정 어머니의 식생활 관리 태도 비교)

  • 남숙연;김선효
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.40 no.4
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    • pp.167-178
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    • 2002
  • This study was carried out to compare the meal management attitudes among the mothers(41 years of age) who had middle school students between in industrial complex and in non-industrial complex. The subjects of each group were composed of 192 mothers Living in Ansan city in Korea, and this study was performed by self-administered questionnaire. The results of the present study were as follows: (1) Monthly family income and education level of parents were lower in industrial complex-family(ICF) than in non-industrial complex-family (NICF). The mean age of mothers and family size were similar in two groups, but the frequency of mothers employed was higher in ICF than in NICF Most mothers in ICF worked as a manual- or skilled-laborer. (2) The mothers in ICF tended to have less positive attitude in sewing balanced meals to their families than those in NICF. The score of nutritional knowledge was lower in mothers in ICF than those in NICF. (3) The percentage of expense for purchasing staple foods to total expense of foods tended to be higher in ICF than in NICF. Engel's coefficient was higher, and the frequency and expense for eating out was lower in ICF than in NICF (4) The mothers in ICF did not try to use their time and energy efficiently for meal management. (5) The mothers in ICF were less active in sewing the pleasurable meals including the provision of various cooking methods, flavors, and temperatures, to their families, than those in NICF. Above findings show that family environment such as industrial complex-families and non-industrial complex-families influences the meal management attitudes of mothers. The mothers in ICF had a less positive altitudes for scientific meal managements than those in NICF even though they had the limited resources including money, time and energy for meal management because most mothers in ICF had a job that were paid low salary and finished irregularly or late. Therefore, these results underscore the need to provide the sound nutritional education for the mothers in ICF with respect to reasonable meal management for 'optimal nutrition of family'. In addition, the government should try to make the various welfare policies to improve nutritional status of low income famines including the poor industrial complex-families.

Comparative study of productive pattern and educational pattern of tailored-collar (테일러드 칼라의 생산업체용 패턴과 교육용 패턴의 비교연구)

  • Shin, Jang-Hee;Sohn, Hee-Soon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.13 no.5
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    • pp.37-44
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    • 2009
  • As the modern society has become highly industrialized and functionalized, the entry of women in public affairs has become brisk and extensive, and the studies of jackets which can satisfy the functions and designs for various activities have become important. Especially in the tailored collar which is the typical collar for female jackets, the studies such as scientific original form design, and design evaluation through analyzing functionality and sensitivity and others must be systematically carried out. In this study, therefore, the objective was placed in examining the actual state of the production of the tailored collar in the field of production first, and inquiring the general theories on the constituent elements of tailored-collar and production methods by analyzing it and comparing it with the educational tailored-collar production methods. First, in regard to the relation between the collar and the length of the backside neck of the bodice, in most cases, they were employing the method to enlarge the length of the backside neck of the bodice by shortening the length of the neck-base girth. That is, they were processing in order that the self collar band inside of the roll line and the fall of the collar can make a soft curved line. Second, when producing tailored-collar patterns, it is desirable to very the inclination according to the breath of the collar or thickness of the fabric because the stability of the inclination of the collar differs depending on the condition the collar is set, the girth of the collar edge. the broader the breath of the collar becomes, the thicker the fabric becomes, and the more the cloth is against the cold, it is necessary to make the inclination larger. Third, in the size relation between the upper collar and under collar, when sewing collars, it becomes thick and stabilized as it goes from the part in which extra pieces were put to the part in which extra pieces are not put. So you must make the upper collar larger by putting in extra pieces. The amount to be put in differs depending on characteristics of the materials.

A study on traditional Korean pillow manufacturing methods - On the restoration of Jatbagae and Yukgolbegae - (한국 전통베개의 제작법에 관한 연구 - 잣베개와 육골베개 재현을 중심으로 -)

  • Park, Young Ae;Park, Sun Mi
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.105-116
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    • 2021
  • Pillows are tools that humans have used for a long time to sleep or lie down and rest. It is bedding, and the oldest literature dealing with it is Volume 29 of 'GoryeoDogyeong', which describes embroidered pillows. The oldest relic is the queen's pillow (National Treasure No. 164) excavated from the tomb of King Muryeong, and is in the Gongju National Museum. This study attempts to investigate and reproduce the materials used in traditional pillows Yukgol pillows and pine nut pillows designs are based on literature and artifacts from the Joseon period to modern times. Regarding the research method, after reviewing literature and the relics of traditional pillows, the process of reproducing the traditional Yukgol pillow and the pine nut pillow production method were explained step by step. This study found the plain attitudes in the lives of people who used materials that could be easily gained from their daily lives in rural communities oriented to rice farming never recklessly threw out any piece of cloth or cotton and use it for pillow stuffing or pillow ends. Also, the sophisticated sense of aesthetics that you can see from the pine nut pillows, whose ends were made of remnants from making clothing are exquisitely similar to what was shown in patchwork previously. The biggest meaning of restoring traditional pillows was looking into traditional culture, particularly the ordinary people's living culture. It was very difficult because the researcher had to find materials that were difficult to obtain in this age, the making process was complex, and it took much time; however, it is significant in that the restoration of traditional pillows allows for the succession of tradition.