• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.268-275
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• 2017

As the substitute of synthetic coloring materials for hair dyeing, we selected some natural ones of three primary colors such as sappan wood, logwood(red), gardenia blue(blue) and amur cork tree(yellow). Mixed colorants and metallic mordanting technique were used to widen the color space of dyed samples. In view of similarity in morphological and chemical structure, wool was adopted as the reference material for human hair to evaluate the color properties of hair dyeing. The color properties of the dyed samples were evaluated by using CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ and Munsell color systems. The addition of an alum or ferrous mordants was effective to expand the color space of hair and to increase the colorfastness to washing and light more than the rating of 1. Displaying the dyed samples by using Munsell color system, better linearity of hue values between the dyed samples of wool and human hair was shown when alum mordant was used.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.8 s.210
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

Ash solutions derived from vegetation have been known for their good mordanting action. They are used as finishing agents because they are able to promote dye uptake. It is expected that the types of ash solutions may have been different worker by worker since the workers have employed easy-to-get plants, when we reviewed old literature. However, the ash solutions are being used without clear distinctions between their characteristics. In this study, camellia ash solution and rice straw ash solution were prepared according to traditional methods. Using these solutions as mordanting agents, natural dyeing experiments with Caesdpinia Sappan were peformed. Following the dyeing procedure, the effect of the type of ash solution on the color of the dyed fabric was evaluated. The results showed that the ash solution mordanting effect us not dependent upon the components of the ash solution. It was also demonstrated that the mordanting effect was not based on the action of the metallic ions in the ash solution. The pH values of the ash solutions were adjusted in order to investigate the effect of changes in ash solution alkalinity on the dyeing process. The pH values ranged from neutral or weak acidity to the alkaline range in order to evaluate the characteristics of the mordanting tv the ash solutions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.83-100
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• 2003

It has been known that the chitosan pre-treated fabrics can be dyed without the aid of mordanting process. It is due to the fact that chitosan treatment increases the dye uptake. However, the effect of chitosan on the dyeing mechanism has not been elucidated thus far. Following explanations have been presented regrading the action of the chitosan on the dyeing mechanisms: 1. Chitosan absorbs dyestuffs and facilitates dyeing since the chitosan itself has a good affinity toward dyestuffs. 2. Chitosan acts as a metallic mordant between the fiber molecule and dyestuff. 3. Fiber molecules and chitosan form a coordinate covalent bond. This study aims the quantitative investigation on the effect of the chitosan and the effect of sequence of the mordanting, pre-mordanting or post-mordanting, on the dyeing of the fabrics. Cotton fabrics and acylic fabrics were pre-treated with chitosan before dyeing with cochineal dyestuffs. Method 1: Fabrics were, firstly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; mordanted fabrics were, secondly, treated with chitosan; mordanted and chitosan-treated fabrics were, thirdly, dyed. Method 2: Fabrics were, firstly, treated with chitosan; chitosan-treated fabrics were, secondly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; these were dyed then. Method 2 gave distinguished specific color development with darker shade. Apart from this, chitosan-treated fabrics yielded darker shade compared to the pre-mordanted fabrics without chitosan-treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.11
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• pp.1465-1474
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• 2005

The primary purpose of this study is to investigate the differences in the characteristics of the mordants, synthetic aluminum mordants and ash solutions as natural mordants, used in Caesalpinia sappan dyeing. By introducing aluminum potassium sulfate in the ash solutions, the behavior of the aluminum in the ash solutions were observed. In the rice straw ash solutions, adjusted to the levels of pH6 and pH10, the aluminum potassium sulfate was introduced to achieve various concentration levels. From the analysis of the ash solution of pull, $K^+$ and $Na^+$ ion concentrations were found to be extremely high, while $Al^+$ ion concentration was 0. The color development in the Caesalpinia sappan dyeing by ash solution mordanting was found to be mainly governed not by the mordanting actions of the metallic ions but by those of alkali components. In the case of cotton, the application of pH10 ash solution promoted reddish color development compared to the case of non-mordanting, regardless of the aluminum potassium sulfate addition. In the case of silk, the application of pH10 ash solution increased a* value and decreased b* value compared to the case of non-mordanting.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.145-153
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• 2009

By introducing chitosan treatment prior to dyeing, examination was given to the effect of chitosan coated on the surface of fabrics on the color change of dyed fabric based on th e change of ${\Delta}E$, a*, and b* values. At the same time, the dyeing mechanism of Caesalpinia sappan dyestuff was predicted by the investigation of the change of air-permeability ac cording to the chitosan treatment. The change of elution was investigated by the examination of the elution of metallic ions employed as mordants after soaking dyed fabrics in the solution of alkaline perspiration ba sed upon the fact that chitosan carries excellent absorption ability toward metallic ions.