• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.283-288
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• 2003

Large quantity of metal mordant in natural dyeing has been used. For environmental reason, there is a need to reduce the amount of metal mordant and suggest the optimum amount of metal mordant in dyeing process. In this study, the relationship between mordant concentration and dyeing property was investigated. Various metal mordant concentrations of AI, Cu, Fe, Sn, were studied (from 1 to 5%). After treatment of mordant on cotton fabric, the concentration of metal ion in used mordant solution was quantified. There was no significant difference of the tone of color in mordant concentration from 1% to 5%, Therefore, there is no need to increase mordant concentration over 1%. chitosan treated cotton fabric showed a significant increase in dyeing affinity compared to untreated cotton fabric (the value of ${\Delta}E$ was 20). chitosan increased dye affinity significantly in the presence of mordant. It can be suggested that chitosan itself can replace metal mordants in the future.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.147-156
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• 2009

In this study, one of disadvantages is to improve the durability of natural dyeing. In order to enhance linkage of Chitosan or Linkage of between Chitosan and cotton fabrics, effect of increasing amount of Silane on Chitosan durability and possibility of using Chitosan as natural mordant were reviewed. After treatment of chitosan with silane, color effect is similar to dyeability used metal mordant. And the durability's washing fastness and air permeability as using chitosan with silane is better than treatment of metal mordant. Chitosan with silane can perform the natural mordant.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.431-440
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate the feasibility of applying the chitosan for a natural mordant. The chitosan, a natural chelate macromolecule, is acquired from the crustacean. Investigation was focused on the change of the dyeability according to the chitosan treatment based on the Caesalpinia sappan and the color change of the dyed fabric according to the application of heavy metal mordant. The change of air permeability of the fabric with the dyeing condition was also investigated systematically. The effect of dyeing with/without mordant on the air permeability of the fabric after the chitosan treatment. It seems that the increase in the dye-uptake is attributable to the fact that chitosan forms a complex with the Caesalpinia sappan and Al during mordant dyeing of cotton fabric. For nylon fabric, the darkest color was achieved on the occasion of non-mordant dyeing of the fabric. The mordant treatment or chitosan treatment, however, reduced the dyeability. While the dyed nylon fabric could maintain the same air permeability as the grey nylon fabric, the cotton fabric lowered the air permeability after dyeing.

• 한국산업융합학회 논문집
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.191-196
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• 2010

This study explores the solution of a variety of conditions of the natural dyeing with the Mulberry. To obtain this, the Cu complex compound was added into the extracts. The Mulberry extract was added the Copper acetate to obtain the Black sediment the metal complex compound of anthocyanidin. According to the result of using the complex compound of the solid material, the dyeing properties were excellent. The metal complex compound acted as a mordant, thus it reduced the process of mordanting in the natural dying.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.137-145
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• 2004

According to the experimental results, it has been reported by several researchers that the air-permeability values of the fabrics mostly decreased by the mordanting during the dyeing procedure. The exact quantitative information, however, has not been presented so far. In this study, the change of the fabric air-permeability was investigated quantitatively. At the same time, the change of the fabric air-permeability according to the dyeing procedure. In order to investigate the possibility of the detachment of the metal ions on the fiber or fabric surface, the change of the air-permeability was investigated after several rinsing of the mordanted fabrics. By comparing the color differences of the cochineal dyed fabrics which were subjected to rinsing procedure after mordanting, the effect of the rinsing of the mordanted fabrics on the dyeing of fabrics was investigated. At the range of mordant concentration, 2% Cu, 2% Sn, 2% Fe, 2% Cr, 5% Al, the metal ions are not excessively absorbed on the fiber surface. Also, any remarkable detachment of the metal ions does not accompany after the mordanting with the subsequent rinsing procedure.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.343-348
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• 2006

This study aims to attain gray tone dyed goods by using tannin that is contained in green tea. Tannin is given general name of polyphenol, which has a characteristic that bonds with protein and it is used for food preservative that protects against bacteria, as well as its purpose of black tone dye for silk treatment that has been processed since its early ages. In particular, as tannin reacts with all kinds of metallic mordant and changes to various colors, when tannin acid is combined with iron, it becomes tannin steel and produces gray tone color. Tannin that is contained in green tea is condensed tannins and its structure does not hydrolyze, thus having flavan type structure. In order to find the suitable condition for processing tannin, UV-Vis part absorption spectrum of green tea tannin, dye ability based on temperature and time, reflection rate based on concentration, color changes based on acid treatment and alkali treatment, changes on surface based on concentration or metal mordant condition, and lightfastness were measured. Maximum absorption wavelength (${\lambda}_{max}$) of green tea tannin was at around 273nm, while strong absorption was also observed at below 350 nm. Dye ability of green tea tannin is done more easily on silk rather than cellulose fibers such as cotton, while the optimum condition for dyeing was observed to be at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 minutes. As a result of acid treatment, the color of dye material consisted highly of gray tones and showed overall gray tone with the combined color of yellow and red after the alkali treatment. While it was observed that as dye concentration and metal mordant concentration increased, the color changed at counter-clockwise direction on the Y-scale of Munsell's scale of colors. Additionally, lightfastness was more on a normal fading.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.113-119
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• 2005

In our previous study, the color development characteristics in the dyeing of silk fibers and PET fibers using Rhusjara ica and related properties were meticulously reviewed. At the same time, the fabric specimens were endowed with chitosan treatment prior to the dyeing procedure in order to investigate the effect of chitosan on the dyeing behavior. The analysis of the colors only, however, would not give us complete elucidation of the effect of fiber characteristics and the mordanting characteristics. In this study, the effect of chitosan and metal mordant treatment in dyeing of silk and PET fabrics using Rhusjara ica has been studied. The change of air-permeability, wash fastness, and light fastness were also investigated.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.547-552
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• 2005

The study has objective in raising value of the gray color as a meaningful color suiting sentiments of modern people by expressing the gray color in various perspective utilizing natural dyes that is natural at the same time having aesthetic color tones. For example, the main ingredient used for coloring black and gray color is the pyrogallol tannin and the gray tone dye can be acquired by combining the tannin with iron. In order to find the suitable condition for processing tannin, UV-Vis part absorption spectrum of Gallapple pyrogallol tannin, dye ability based on temperature and time, reflection rate based on concentration, color changes based on acid treatment and alkali treatment, changes on surface based on concentration or metal mordant condition, and lightfastness were measured. Maximum absorption wavelength (${\lambda}_{max}$) of Gallapple tannin was at around 273 nm, while strong absorption was also observed at below 350 nm. Dye ability of Gallapple tannin is done more easily on silk rather than cellulose fibers such as cotton, while the optimum condition for dyeing was observed to be at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 minutes. As a result of acid treatment, the color of dye material consist highly of gray tones and showed red tone after the alkali treatment. While it was observed that as dye concentration and metal mordant concentration increased the color changed at counter-clockwise direction on the Y-scale of Munsell's scale of colors. Lightfastness was more on a normal fading. I hope this study opens up possibilities towards presenting gray color expressed from tannin as color with diversity and aesthetic value. In future, comparative study between dye expressed from catechol tannin dye materials will be helpful.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.303-308
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• 2004

A natural colorant was extracted from Cassia tara L. using buffer solutions (pH: 2-11) as extractants. The dyeing solution (Cassia tara L. extract) extracted using pH 9 buffer solution was found to give the highest K/S values of dyed fabrics. Cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with Cassia tara L. extract at $60^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with pre-treatment of various metal salts as mordants. It was found that Cassia tara L. extract was polygenetic dyestuffs and its major components were anthraquinones. Studies have been made on the effects of the kind of mordant on dyeing properties and colour fastnesses of cotton and silk fabrics. The K/S of cotton fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using $FeSO_4 >CuSO_4> ZnSO_4> MnSO_4\cong Al_2(SO_4)_3 > NiSo_4 > none$, however, the K/S of silk fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using $FeSO_4 > CuSO_4 > ZnSO_4\cong Al_2(SO_4)_3 > MnSO_4\cong NiSO_4 > none$. It was found that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were largely affected by the colour difference $(\DeltaE)$ between mordanted fabric and control fabric. However, they were not depended on the content of mordanted metal ion of the fabrics. Mordants $FeSO_4$ and CuSO_4$ for cotton fabric, $FeSO_4,\; CuSO_4,\; and\; Al_2(S0_4)_3$ for silk fabric were found to give good light fastness (rating 4).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.609-609
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• 1998

This paper surveys the effect of rice straw ash solution to the physical properties of Sappan Wood dyeing fabrics. In the quantitative analysis of rice straw ash solution, the quantities of absorbed ingredients in fabrics were increased by bath pull treatment but the amount of absorption(K/S value) was increased by bath pH4.5 treatment. This is related to the metal ion. Among the metal ion, effect of Fe iou and Al ion were related. In case added extracted dye solution to mordants, the color dye solution became dark and increased reddish. The changes of mechanical properties of fabrics tensile resilience, bending rigidity(B), compressional resilience(RC) were increased. Generally mechanical properties were increased by rice straw ash solution treatment, specially bath pH9 treatment. Rice straw ash solution treatment of dyeing fabrics made the improvement in tensile strength and elongation and in the amount of absorption, dye ability, color fastness, mechanical properties, tensile strength, elongation.