• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.869-879
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• 2009

본 연구의 목적은 테크토닉 문화 및 패션의 특징을 파악하고, 한국과 프랑스에서 테크토닉 문화와 패션이 갖는 특수성을 밝히는 것이다. 특히 그 동안 주로 연구되었던 영 미권이 아닌 한국에서 하위문화가 어떻게 확산, 향유되는지에 주목하였다. 테크토닉은 2000년 프랑스 파리의 한 클럽에서 등장한 댄스 장르이자 음악 장르로, 인터넷을 통해 전 세계적으로 전파되었다. 테크토닉 패션은 슬림한 라인, 강렬한 색상, 하이탑 스니커즈를 특징으로 하는데, 이러한 패션 스타일은 동시대 패션의 흐름과 맞물리면서 테크토닉 댄스와 음악의 성격을 표현한다. 프랑스와 비교하여, 한국 테크토닉 패션 스타일은 남성의 경우 진한 메이크업과 모히칸 헤어를 잘 시도하지 않으며, 여성은 짧은 치마로 섹시함을 강조하는 경향이 있다. 테크토닉의 발생지인 프랑스에서는 테크토닉이 긍정적인 사회적 놀이문화로서 자리매김했으나, 한국의 테크토닉은 그 이미지만이 차용되어서 연예인의 패션 스타일이나 광고 수단으로 상품화되었다. 하위문화로서 테크토닉은 놀이성, 상품성, 디지털 통신매체의 적극적인 이용이라는 특수한 성격을 가진다. 테크토닉을 즐거운 댄스에 참여하는 것으로 여기는 프랑스에서는 놀이성이 두드러지고, 테크토닉을 시각적인 흥미요소로 여기는 한국에서는 상품성이 두드러진다. 이러한 성격의 차이가 두 나라의 테크토닉 패션에 차이를 가져왔다.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.41-63
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• 1981

The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.

• 자원환경지질
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.325-337
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• 2002

백운 폐광산 주변에 방치된 폐석으로 인한 하천수 및 하상퇴적물의 중금속오염정도를 알아보고자 하였다. 광산활동과 관련되어 발생하는 주변 하천수의 Al 및 Pb, Zn, Cu, Cd, Mn, Fe 등의 중금속 및 기타 이온의 부화현상은 하천수의 TDS를 높이며 또한, 수질을 악화시키는 요인이 된다. 백운광산 주변의 하천수는 Ca와 SO$_4$가 주를 이루는 Ca-SO$_4$형을 보이며, 부분적으로 황화광물의 화학적 풍화로 인한 중금속부화현상을 보인다. 광산을 경유해서 흐르는 하천수는 알카리 및 알카리 토류원소에 의한 중화작용의 영향으로 pH는 6.S-7.1의 약산성내지 중성을 띤다 폐갱구로부터 홀러나오는 갱내수 또한 약산성 내지 중성을 띠며, 광산내의 광석과 맥석광물과의 화학적 풍화로 인해 높은 원소함량을 보인다. 백운 폐광산 주변의 하천수는 갱내수가 유입되는 지역에서 높은 농도를 보이다 하류로 갈수록 농도가 급격히 낮아진다. 이온농도가 낮아지고 pH가 중성을 띠는 것은 자연적으로 오염을 조정해주는 희석 및 침전, 흡착 등으로 인한 완충작용의 결과이다. 토양내에서 중금속의 이동성이나 생물학적 이용능력을 알아보기 위하여 단계별 추출법을 이용하여 하상퇴적물에서 Cd, Cu, Zn, Pb의 존재형태를 5가지 단계로 분류하였다: 이온교환형태, 탄산염형태, 철-망간 산화물형태, 유기물형태, 잔류상형태. 대부분의 퇴적물에서 Cu(21-92%) 및 Zn(28-89%), Pb(23-94%)는 잔류상형태가 우세하였으며, Cd는 퇴적물에서 다른 원소에 비해 낮은 농도(2.7-52.8 mg/kg)를 보여주었으나 대부분 불안정한 형태(68-97%)가 우세하였다. 상류 퇴적물에서는 폐석으로 인해 Pb의 농도가 높게 나타나며, 하류 퇴적물은 Zn이 높은 농도를 보여, Zn 과 불안정한 형태가 우세한 Cd이 이동성이 높은 원소임을 알 수 있었다.thing construction. The presentation coverages and relative difficulties of textbooks were, however, diverse. It is somewhat noticeable that, while fewer professors majoring in clothing construction participated in writing, generally more pages were allocated to clothing construction than other areas. While presentations on anthropometrics method, construction theory, draft theory, usage of sewing machine and fitting theory were insufficient most textbooks were dealing with drafting of basic slopers and sewing procedure, etc. Making-up techniques on the apparels items such as Korean traditional men's pants, pajamas, shirt vest skirt, pants, apron and Korean pouch were handled closely in each textbook.different from the one in the l980s worn by the demonstrators of popular movements and democratic movements, and it emerged as a new symbol with the characteristics of cultural movement like community consciousness and nature affiliation.