• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.31-48
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• 2007

The purpose of the this study is to make a historical review of changes in the structural decorations of men's costume from ancient times to modern times and to provide basic materials for developing handicraft decoration techniques and sewing methods in contemporary fashion. Their gorgeousness of collars and sleeves reached its peak along with the exaggerated expression of the human body during the Renaissance when people were free from Christian traditions of the Middle Ages and pursued human pleasures. Huge and decorative collars gave great dignity and formality to the wearer. Sleeves were slim and cuffs were small or nonexistent after the French Revolution. Various decorated pockets had been developed since pockets began to be attached to coats in the 17th century. Pockets were at the bottom of coat in the late 17th century, but they were gradually placed much higher on the coat. Buttons began to be used as the tool for sticking fast body to clothes in the 12th century and became extremely sumptuous accessories in the $16th{\sim}18th$ centuries. Men's clothes were simpler and more practical after the French Revolution. The result was that decorative buttons begun to disappear and metal buttons came out for practical purpose. The number of buttons worn on sleeves was also noticeably reduced. This research suggested the possibility that various decoration techniques could create the unique details in the each part of clothes. In order to develop high value-added products, we need to study various decoration-sewing methods and put to practical use them for creative fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.852-866
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women's fashion with the androgynous image(fashion item, adornment) which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. First, masculine image led the market in the first stage of mid 1980 in a men's wear oriented trend that the woman wear masculine style jacket, pants and blouse. In hair style, the short hair of the masculine image was used habitually but the make-up was tend to be made heavily. The ambivalence of the sex was also showed up by expressing the feminine image on the masculine image using the accessories like necklace, earing and bracelet. Second, unlike the first stage, it showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. The jacket, blouse and pants were rooted as the basic item in women's fashion. The feminine style of long hair and natural make-up with the androgynous image were increased. Third, in the third stage of the late 1990, the fashion items to the comfortable dress of light weight as the life style pursuits the activity and convenience. The feminine image were appeared naturally with a long hair style and natural make-up with the androgynous image. The remarkable features in the fashion accessories were that boots and low shoes were preferred by the increase of the masculine image shoes and the sneakers were seen a lot by the effect of the sports boom.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.129-144
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• 2000

In the history of the costume of Western Europe one of the most interesting apects is that the silhouette of women's dress has been continuously evolved. There can be various origins in this changing silhouette but the most important origin is that clothes of any period are the reflection of the architectural political religious and economic background against which they are worn they must also be djusted to the texture and design of the materials produced at the time and of course there is always the basic instinct of sex attraction. The changing line in men's and women's clothes has been demanded by each period but man's great active life did not required the development of exaggerated line which could restrict his movements. Exaggeration in men's clothes has usually been confined to accessories only details could be simplified or abandoned altogether in time of action. However Woman has no great concern in these restrivtions and when an era demanded an exaggerated silhouette she developed it to the utmost limit with out any hesitation plunged herself into whalebone cane and steel for the desired line and then later to adapt herself to a changing world just as without any hesitaion abandoned all these artificial props. In this study first of all the origin of the corset and the evolution of silhouette will be chronologically studied and rearranged on the basis of written materials such as text books theses and catalogs which are related to corset In this section the most important backgrounds-social religious and economic-which caused the chages of silhouette will be scrutinized in a time order. Then the shapes and functions of corsets will be looked into in a more detailed way. In addition the materials and decorations which were preferred to achieve the desired silhouette will be examined. Finally underwear which was and has been worn for cleanness protection the shapes of outer clothes and erotic mood will be studied.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.15-28
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• 1995

This thesis focuses on the study of costume and ornaments of Shilla which had been severely affected by Uighur, and those of Uighur in Uighur self-governing district located in Shin Kang. East Turkestan, in Centrals Asia. This study aims to identifty the way of intergration of Uighur's costume and ornaments into Shilla, and orgins of Shill's costume and ornaments which had amix of internationl elelemnts thoursh cross exchanges, by comparing the differences between the two, and at the same time to clarify the pedigree of Korean costume and ornaments which are said to be udner a severe Chinese influence, by highlingting its uniqueness and originality . The result of the study demonstrates and originality of SHilla by melting foreign cultures into its own style in the process of accepting them. This means that the Shilla has recreated them in t도 form of simplification, and added naturalistic abstratness which is an element of Norther culture. The costume and ornaments are divided into coronets men's costuem, women's costume, and accessories 1. Coroncts A horse-riding man, and the costume type of 유고제 착유지체형 tell the Northern culture's influence on 백화수피기마인물채화담립 and patterns of a lotus flowr and arabesque show the 백화수피기마인물채색답립 has an influence of Buddhism with cluture of bordering countries of Western China , The origin of 뱍회수피제안형건(원정형, 방정형) lies in Northern cultures which can be found in ancient tombs of the Huns in noin-Ila , and stone caves of Jizil in Kochang. The wall paintings in Alexandropol, Murutuk and 돈황 No. 409 cave show that 초화형입식계금관 is under the influence of Northern culture, and Bezerkrick No, 25 cave and 회 번 in Kocho also show 수목녹각형입식관 is under the influence of Northern culture, with its origin in Novecherkaask. In this regard, the transformed coroncts of Shilla has shows a blended culture of Shilla with Nothern, Chinese, and Western cultures. 2. Men's Costume 반령포 derives from cultures of bordering countries of Western China centering around Uighur and Turkey. 연주문 in Uighur prince's costume and in Uighur paintings of Central Asia were reflected into the arts of Shilla in a direct way, and the motive of Uighur was deviatelly expressed at Shilla's arts in the form of simplicity , and naturalistic abstract paintings as in shown at 입수쌍조문 in tiles and brick. Along with this , 고착지체형 costume originates from Eurasia's Northern horseriding costumes as was shown in a golden man in B.C.4-5C which is now possessed by Kazakstan Republic Academy Archelogy Center Museum, and a golden figure from Skitai ancient caves, an the origin is carried away into wall paintings of Kizil No.14. cave in 8c and Astana's early period ancient tomb. No.6. 3. Women's Costume The hair styles of Shilla people are either 변발 or up -style with a lot of hair around it whose origin can be seen in Astana No.216 and No.187 caves of Kochang and Uighur's wall paintings of royal princess's hair style. Astana's middle period No. 206 and No.230 tombs reveal the its origin of 고착장군 while Astana early period No. 6 tomb shows that of 광유풍만형. 4. Accessories The earrings with small golden beads is seen at earring of figure holding a sword in wall painting of figure holding a sword in wall painting of Kizil in about 5 C. and those of a offering people in Sorchuk wall paintings. The earrings with small golden beads originates from a golden pendant of Shivargan, Afganistan, and golden pendants and other golden and metal accessories from Chrioba ancient tombs in Skiti Critia peninsula. Shilla's costume derives from the costume style of horse-ridding man, which proves the fact that Shilla people are horse-ridding peoplewith excellent horse-ridding techniques, and traditions. The people of Shilla are from horse-ridding people of local mounted momads in Northern part of Siberia steppe and this origin of Northern culture had been carried into Uighur in East Turkestan. At the same time , Shilla has a wealth and power since it was rich in gold and iron , thus producing lots of materials made of them. The results of this study emphasizes Shilla's identity and self-control by creating an independent an innovative heterogeneous culture since Shill's active exchanges with East Asia allowed it to accept the most civilized Uighur culture in East Turkestan among Altai languate which had frequent cross contacts with India and Europe.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.211-223
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine aspects of education, social activity, and sense of values in new women, categorizing the clothing habits into hair style, new modes and accessories on the basis of those. and to find out the influences of new women's attirement on clothing habit of general women, centering of 「Beol Geon Gon」 which made its first appearance in November 1926 and issued till June, 1934. First, new education became good opportunity to face and adopt new style of clothes. The school uniform of western style worn under the education system operated missionaries and clothes of returning students from studying abroad became a chance for general people to meet western clothes. Second, various style of western clothing was shown by enlargement of social activity area of new women. In the educational world and active careers such as doctor, journalist. women's libber, convenient clothing was required. The appearance of airwoman and driver showed trends that women's clothing was changing similar to men's clothing. Third, even general women started to adopt western clothes not to be old-fashioned as being threatened and weakened by the vision about marriage and love among new women, and participated in the trends.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.27-43
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• 2012

Considering the rapid growth of mobile industry and the emerging application marketing, this study focused on fashion applications, which had not drawn much academic attention before, and analysed relevant content composition, information-seeking benefits based on users' lifestyles and resulting differences in satisfaction and loyalty. In short, fashion applications were divided into fashion and non-fashion brand apps. Brand apps were subdivided into luxury, women's wear, men's wear, casual wear, sportswear, accessories and the like. Non-brand apps included commerce, magazine, information, style tip, SNS and wardrobe manager types. As for users' lifestyle-based information search, the higher the tendency to search information on the internet and to favour reasonable consumption, the more basic information on products and brands they sought, whereas the higher the tendency to look for high-profile brands and to favour global culture, the more additional information like images or entertainments they sought. To sum up, given that studies on fashion-specific applications were rare, the present study reviewed and categorized current fashion applications, and suggested theoretical and practical groundwork for developing content based on target consumers' lifestyle and for planning fashion applications in practice.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.28-44
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to study the movie costume and color image through the movie "The Aviator". Firstly, looking at the costumes of main characters and their color images expressed in the movie, one extreme of Hughes' image to another was expressed in order to show his extreme inner world by using the light-dark contrast rather than specific colors as the base. The gold color used to express the image of Hepburn represented an image expressing her intellectual elegance. As for her dress silhouette, the taste of intellectual elegance was displayed by a dress whose back was exposed with a grownup-style feminine silhouette or one with drapes and pleats ornaments. To express Gardner's image; that is, her alluring charm and glow, a vivid red color was used. As for her costume, her splendid and fascinating image was expressed by the 40s' rectangular- shouldered tailored suit, exotic peasant blouse and showy accessories. Secondly, the color image expressed in the background in the movie as a special space for Hughes. The red color image of screening room was shown to be as a space for passion and desire and the green color image of men’s room as a space for stability and rest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.113-128
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• 2001

The objective of this study is to research the costume of Three Han to be recorded in -$\ulcorner$Samkukgy$\urcorner$ Tongyjeon. They were written tattoos, broad head, physique, hair style, dress. accessories-lnsu, beads, head dress, shoes and cloths in Tongy-jeon. The results of this study are as fellows: Tattoos were common in Three Han. Those may be carved by chinese ink on body except a face. Broad head was Byonhan and Jinhan s customs. The physique of Mahan and Byonhan s men was tall and big. The hair style was just topknot not to put on a hat in Mahan, long hair In Byonhan and short hair for slaves in Jinhan. And then tattoos, flat head and skull, long hair style were the southern style. The dresses were two piece style-po and trousers. The shoes were made of leather. Those were the northern style. Eui-Chek, In-Su were royal gift of china. And they put valuable on beads, not gold, silver and golden embroidery cloths. This was different from other countries, And so we can find the variety of cultures at that time. The varieties came from the southern, northern, china and unique style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.919-932
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• 2022

This study analyzed the trends of applications for patents, utility models, and designs related to leggings in order to understand the trend of development of technologies for leggings products that are continuously growing in the fashion market. In this study, trends in patent, utility model, and design applications related to leggings products filed from 2001 to 2020 with the Korean Intellectual Property Office were analyzed. As a result, first, the trends of applications for patents, utility models, and designs by year showed that the applications began to rise from 2006 and increased sharply in the 2010s. Second, applications for patents and utility models were analyzed by subject and, according to the results, the applications for compression shaping functionality were the most frequent, followed by those for construction/sewing, those for accessories and others, those for system/device, and those for multi-functionality. Third, when applications for designs were classified by target for wearing and by type of leggings, applications for general leggings designs were the most frequently filed, followed by applications for: item attachment type leggings, shapewear leggings, leggings for men, leggings for pregnant women, leggings for children, and leggings for the disabled. Although this study is limited to domestic patents, utility models, and design applications, it collected useful information related to leggings products and presented directions for future development.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.39-56
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• 2008

It is a remarkable phenomenon that tattoos has been rapidly spreading among women of modern years. The extremism of feminine ornaments, and pricking and piercing of the skin seem to have deep connection with women's consciousness changing to being independent, active and aggressive. The objective of this study is to analyze the potential quality of today's women, who appears emblematically through tattoo, and to search out the whole aspect and keynote of female tattoos. The methods of research are by examining the general characteristics including concept and history, considering the type and significance of ethnic female tattoos, and then comparing with the symbolism of today's female tattoos. The sphere is limited to women's tattoos from ancient times to today's modern lift, examined from large portions of Africa, Asia, Australasia, the Americas, and Arctic regions. As a result, the following had been reflected in female tattoos in the past. First, incantation, tribe, adult age, adornment, marital status, domestic ability and sex distinction, where among others, the incantatory, ornamental symbol, and domestic sign were representatives. Second, the most popular body parts for having a tattoo were around the lips, hands and abdominal region. Third, the more harsh the environment becomes such as tropical forests, isolated islands, and polar regions, the more number of females have tatoos. Fourth, women's tattoos were much less glamorous and smaller compared to those of men, distinguishing one's sex. On the other hand, today's female tattoos can be classified as five symbols: masculinity, independence, voluptuousness, affection, and purity. These symbols contain women's mentality to pass the limit, and to overcome social inferiority. In modern society, where women must compete with met it has become necessary for women to educe their potential masculine qualities. Being violent accessories for them, tattoos became a mark of such potential. Therefore, in the future, women's interest and demand for tattoos are expected to rise in proportion to the social demand of women's force.