• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.1-18
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between costumes of court masque and the fashion trend at that time, by the analysis of the portraits. The period in this thesis is from Elizabeth I (1588-1603), until James I (1603-1625), when Inigo Jones was actively involved in court in masque, and when the traits of court masque began to appear in costume. The research material of this thesis is from the papers, costume design sketches, portraits and miniatures. As a result the costume of court masque which is the mixture of that of ancient Greece, Rome, middle age, and the exotic style of Ireland and Persian, had a great impact on the general fashion, and the unique pattern f costume became prevalent in the end of 16th and the early 17th century. This thesis might help us understand and special costume of that age and study the way how it come to have an influence on the fashion of the costume pertaining mainly to the privileged class.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.15-26
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research development process of commedia dell'arte and Korean masque that have similar figure, grasp similarity and difference and find the meaning of masque and costume in both theatrical arts. Italian commedia dell'arte and Korean masque are performed by wearing standardized mask and costume depending on the role. As common points, first, the characters have unique names and possess unique features of character, costumes, masks and playing styles. Through the feature, the audiences can understand role of actor and the actors can devote themselves to their role by wearing masks and costumes. Second, although background plays an important role in commedia dell'arte, the role of costume is more important. Because masque speaks for poverties of general people indirectly, the costumes of general people were used as they are. As different point, first, most of Korean masks cover entire face, restricting speech of actor but masks of commedia dell'arte cover only upper part of face and expos mouth and chin of actor, enabling actors to express various emotions depending on the character. Second, priority is given to personality of actor and origin area and current silhouette, material and color that changed by century is reflected in the costume of commedia dell'arte but silhouette, material and color of the Age of Joseon Dynasty were adopted in Korean masque.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.79-94
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• 2004

The main purpose of this study is to discribe the transfiguration process and the symbols of theatrical costume of Sandai masque(산대놀이) during the Choson Dynasty. Sandai masque as a popular play is a very important form in the history of the Korean theatre. Furthermore in order to analyze the mutual relationship and difference between in the early and later Chosen Dynasty, Narye has is stressed deeply a national amusement event. In the early years of Choson Dynasty, non-official culture such as outside of Seoul and Seoul were subject to the official culture of the Court. In the late years, actors become more and more libral, separating themselves from the systemical restriction. The main reason for this is the growth of capitals in private sectors as well as the growth in demand for entertainment among private citizens. On these backgrounds, the transfiguration process of Sandai masque have changed the treatrical costume. The treatrical costume carries symbolic meaning to the obserber. The value of symbol changes as the time passes, overtime thereby altering its meaning as well. The caracters and plots change inevitably over years but the basic theme remains. The symbols of theatrical costume of Sandai masque are mainly focused on three subjects: first, the entrance of a dragon and tiger originated in the exorcism for good harvest; second, color symbolism expressed in the confrontation between red and black; and third, associate characteristics of dress forms related to regoinal classification of the mask dance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.146-161
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics and images of costume colors in Korean Masque Drama. For this study, 242 color samples were selected by extracting digital color data by using the Eyedropper Tool of Photoshop 7.0. The RGB color data were transformed to HV/C and the attributes of color and tone were analyzed. Color images were analyzed with the IRI color image scale. As a result, neutral, red, purple blue, and yellow were found to be the most frequently used colors in the Korean Masque costumes. In the ton analysis, white tone showed high frequency and next orders were dp, s, v, b, sf. In the hue & tone, the most frequent color was white, followed by R(v), PB(dp), R(dp), YR(s), GY(s) and mGY. Color images were focused on dynamic, gorgeous, and natural images.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.14-27
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the aesthetic characteristics of Brecht's V-Effekt is visually expressed of the costume in the Traditional Play of Korea, China and Japan. The method and the contents of the study were to refer to the antecedent studies and the related documents to peruse the characteristics of the traditional plays of the East and West, the origin and the concept of Brecht's Verfremdung and considered the relation of Brecht's V-Effekt and the Oriental plays, and then the researcher derived the aesthetic properties of Brecht's V-Effekt. This study analyzed how those qualities of the aesthetic characteristics on the V-Effekt are manifested on the stage costumes of Korean mask, Beijing opera and Kabuki. The aesthetic qualities of Brecht's V-Effekt are classified into symbolism, grotesque disposition, character of sing and dance, comicality. The symbolism in the traditional play costumes of the three nations is shown in the colors of the masks in Korean and the tone of the colors on the costumes and the make-up in Beijing opera and Kabuki. While the properties of bizarrerie and deformation coexist in masque and Beijing opera costumes in terms of grotesque disposition, Kabuki strongly displays bizarre grotesquerie. The character of sing and dance is visually expressed through the transformation of sleeves on the three nation's traditional play costumes; Masque on the Hansam and Chengsam, Beijing opera on the Water sleeves and Kabuki on Hurisode. The comic aspection is expressed in a humorous and comical way through the distortion and transformation of forms in Masque and Beijing opera but it cannot be seen in Kabuki costume. The study as above will form the aesthetic properties of the Oriental traditional play costumes and also it will contribute to establishing the identity of Korean mask costumes.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.37
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• pp.5-31
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• 2018

The mask dance drama Goseong Ogwangdae's first act, Mundung Bukchum. The story is about a man who was born to the upper class but contracted leprosy, an incurable disease, due to his ancestors' accumulated sin. Although he is suffering, he is able to triumph over the disease through sinmyeong (catharsis) that is expressed through the wordless act of Mundung Bukchum. This thesis focuses on Goseong Ogwangdae's Mundung Bukchum, particularly the meaning, costume, accompanying music, and process of pedagogical transmission. The chronological characteristics of Goseong Ogwangdae's Mundung Bukchum are as follows. First, as time goes on, the number of dance motions in Mundung Bukchum has increased and the motions used have become reified. Second, I address the small barrel drum used in Mundung Bukchum and check how, through the drum, the changed expression of Mundung is shown.In a 1965 video introduced Mundung is grasping the drum and stick and the dance appears to be made up only of humorous motions. Also in a 1969 video, "Mundung Gwangdae," from the start Mundung is grasping the drum and stick. In 1988 in a video we can see the same scene as today, with the drum and stick sitting in the center of the stage at the start of the dance. We can also confirm that the same fourteen dance motions used today are present. Third, we can also confirm the changes in Goseong Ogwangdae's signature motion, baegimsae as time goes on. Observing the video from 1965, baegimsae does not appear in Mundung Bukchum. In 2000 we can clearly see the baegimsae performed once to the left and to the right while Mundung is squatting. Comparing 1969 to 1988, there is no symmetry in the motions, baegimsae is not done to both left and right, but only in one direction. Watching the record from 2000, the baegimsae motion is performed just as it is now, with the body thrown forward with a sharp push off the ground. Fourth I confirmed how the music used to accompany Goseong Ogwangdae's Mundung Bukchum has changed over time. In 1965 according to records of Mundung Bukchum's appearance, the dance was accompanied by the taryeong rhythmic pattern played on the usual four percussion instruments (barrel drum, hourglass drum, large gong, small gong). In the 1969 records of Mundung Bukchum the accompanying music is gutgeori rhythmic pattern performed on the usual four percussion instruments-an obvious difference. In 1988 the music with Mundung Bukchum is gutgeori rhythmic pattern transitioning into jajinmori rhythmic pattern. In 2000 the music with Mundung Bukchum includes the percussion instruments as well as taepyeongso (double reed oboe) playing gutgeori and jajinmori rhythmic patterns.