• Title/Summary/Keyword: male skirt

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A Study of the Changes in Types of Justaucorps for French Men, and Pattern making from the End of the 17th Century to the End of the 18th Century (17세기말기-18세기말 프랑스 남자 쥐스또꼬르 유형변화와 패턴제작 연구)

  • Kim, Yang-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.8
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    • pp.49-65
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    • 2009
  • As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

A Study on the Costume of Baikje Period -With Emphasis on the Influence of Korean Culture in the Ancient Japan- (백제복식연구 -일본고대사에 미친 백제문화의 영향-)

  • Cho Kyu Hwa
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.4 no.1_2
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    • pp.49-56
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    • 1980
  • Because of the scarcity of data, a study of costume during the Baikje period can be made imaginarily only with historical records as data. According to records, Baikje costume was almost the same as that of the Koguryo period. Consequently, we may well imagine Baikje costume by means of studying such materials as the mural paintings found in Koguryo tombs and the remains found in the royal tomb of Munyung. The basic form of costume of the Baikje period, therefore, might have been like this: Both male and female wore a kind of jacket(유: JEOGORI) and trousers(고: BAJI) with female-wearing skirt (상: CHIMA) thereon. Both men and women wore overcoat(포: DURUMAGI). They used to wear headdress(관모) and used leather shoes(화) Such a form of costume can be found in the costume of HANIWA(식륜) of Japan, which belonged to the costume of HOBOK (호복) of the northern area. Under the SHIMNEUK-PUM-KWAN-KE(십육품관계) system, that is, 16 grades of official ranks, officials of the Baikje dynasty wore clothes, coronets and belts, all of which differed from one another in colors, according to ranks. Such a system of Baikje might have influenced the KANI-JUNI-KAI (the 12-grade color discrimination of the coronet, 관위십이계) for the government officials of ancient Japan the Suiko period. For the study of such matters, I have tried to review the flow of the Korean culture into ancient Japan in the field of costume.

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Development of Safety Clothing for Sports and Entertainment for Adolescent (청소년을 위한 스포츠 및 엔터테인먼트 안전의복의 개발)

  • Park, Soon Ja;Ko, Soo Kyung
    • Human Ecology Research
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    • v.59 no.1
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    • pp.83-97
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    • 2021
  • This study developed safety clothing that is essential for adolescent to protect their bodies from accidents, pursue activities and individuality. Therefore, the developed safety clothing was first based on international standards, while changing design to emphasize creativity, activity, and functionality. Two suits of boy's clothes and a girl's suit were developed as safety clothing for sportswear, along with two pairs of girl's clothes and a pair of boy's clothes for entertainment. It was confirmed that the difference in visibility was revealed by testing under different lighting conditions. Second, the survey on adolescents indicated no significant gender difference in sportswear. Round shirt+shorts for both boys and girls were the most preferred for ball game sportswear. However, there was a significant difference by gender in the design of safety clothing for entertainment. Male students preferred jump suit=cape+pants the most, and female students preferred jump suit>cape+pants in the order (p<0.05). In the safety clothes with the highest preference for entertainment, there was no gender difference. All students preferred the jump suit at the most. Checking at each school level, it was found that both middle and high school students preferred jump suit designs, and in safety clothing, middle school students preferred high-neck shirt blouse+tight skirt, and high school students preferred jump suits. Third, 35.5% responded that they would wear it more if current safety clothing is improved. This indicated the necessity of developing various safety clothing for adolescence.

A Study on Dress and its Ornament seen on the Picture of Welcoming the Governor of Pyongan Province (평안감사(平安監司) 환영도(歡迎圖)의 복식(服飾) 고찰(考察))

  • Lee, Joo-Won
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.4
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    • pp.39-59
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    • 1981
  • This article briefly researched the Picture of Welcoming the Governor of Pyongan Province painted by Kim Hong-do, penname Danwon(1745-1818?). The Picture was composed of three parts and its historical and pictorial back-ground were reviewed firstly. And later the dress and its ornament appearing on the Picture were studied. In the historical viewpoint of dress and its ornament, the Picture shown all sorts of dress from lower class maids and servants to higher officials-dignatories and governor, and dealt with nearly all dresses. In order to support and to make better understand the dresses of that age, some Korean literary works of the same period depicting the dress and its ornament were also selected. This article dealt with the dress and its ornament. especially that of 18th century of the Yi Dynasty, and comparatively studied for our folk painting with literary works. Also the picture enabled to make this study was an important data of our old dress and its ornament. This painting was considered as one of our cultural treasures. Several conclusions drawn out from this study as followings: 1) In male and female dress of lower class people; male dress was consist of trouser and coat, and coat, and over the coat SOCHANGYI were used. Female dress was basically consist of skirt and these were white color of their favourite. Mainly simple color was used for clothing and its dress style were CHAKSOO-HYONG (narrow sleeve style) which convenient for a work. 2) Yangban's dress was consist of trouser, coat and over the coat, usually DOPO(over-coat) were used and some case JICKRYONGPO (a sort of over-coat) or CHANGYI were also used. These were GWANGSOO-HYONG (wide sleeve style) of inconvenient for a work. 3) In head-gear, there was no difference of the higher and the lower. They usually used HEUC-KRIP (black Korean hat). The OCKJUNGJA, GONJAKMI (peacock tail), HOSOO (tiger beard), and YOUNGJA (chin strip) were used according to officials ranks as head-gear's oraments. 4) Local petty officials used ordinary dress and CHUPRI (warn-dress) were also used by them, and military officials used war-dress of tight sleeve. 5) The belting of over-coat are different in color according to official grade. The higher grade wore red-wide belt, but generally black narrow belt for ordinary officials. 6) All KISAING girl wore SAMHYEOIJANG upper coat. And their head ornament were black KARIMA for grown KISAING. SAYANG hair for DONGKI or maiden KISAING and BINYEO (an ornamental rod of women's hair) were inserted into the hair of rear down part of head. The water carring maid wore BANHYEOIJANG upper coat and no KARIMA were on head and their coat were gloomy color. Above mentioned are several conclusions, and there migh be a false or erroneous explanations of 18th century dress and its ornament, however I considered they were data for blank period of quite unknown.

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Attitudes of Physician, Nurse and Patient towards Physician's and Nurse's Uniform (의사와 간호사의 복장에 대한 의사, 간호사 및 환자의 견해)

  • Jung, Youn-Heui;Kim, Seok-Beam;Kang, Pock-Soo
    • Journal of Yeungnam Medical Science
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.324-346
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    • 1996
  • A survey was conducted to study attitudes of physician, nurse and patient towards physician's and nurse's uniform, from March 1 to March 31, 1996. The study population was 130 physicians and 147 nurses engaged in Yeungnam University Medical Center and 211 inpatients of Yeungnam University Medical Center. A questionnaire method was used to collect data. The following are summaries of findings: In the respect of physician's uniform, both physicians and nurses preferred other type of gown to the traditional coat-typed one and especially, nurses preferred more than physicians. Patients showed no difference in the preference of the traditional one and other form of gown as a whole but those who had higher educational level preferred other form of gown(p<0.01). Regarding the color of physician's gown, 73.6% of physicians and nurses liked white color, and 86.3% of the patients also liked the white color. Male physicians preferred the white color more than female physicians and nurses(p<0.01). Patients showed no meaningful difference for the color. The opinion of insisting on wearing a necktie when physician see patients was given by male physicians, physicians of fifty or more, physicians working in the field of medicine and professors, which showed significantly higher percentage than other groups(p<0.01). In the group of patiens, the same opinion was given by female, the group of sixty or more, the group of elementary school graduates or less and people residing in other cities and counties more than male, the group of other ages, the group of having higher educational level and people of Taegu city(p<0.01). It tended to agree wearing casual wear of physician during the working time of weekend and holiday as a whole. Younger physicians showed significantly higher preference for it(p<0.05). Regarding the nurse's uniform, both physicians and nurses preferred trousers, and 96% of the nurses did. Especially, nurses who were forty years old or more and who served at outpatient department and administrative and aid parts expressed 100 percent partiality to trousers. For the patients, those who had lower educational level preferred skirt and those who had higher educational level preferred trousers. As to the color of nurse's gown, 46.7% of the physicians and nurses liked white color. The physicians preferred white and nurses preferred other color(p<0.01). Of the patients, 79.1% liked white color. Regarding the wearing cap, 95.9% of the nurses replied it didn't have to wear the cap. The nurses who were fifty or more and who served at outpatient department and special parts gave whole answers of not having to wear the cap. On the other hand, 77.7% of the patients answered nurse had to wear the cap. From the above findings, it would be advisable to give a change to the forms and colors of the gowns to match with the trend and sense of the time instead of insisting on the traditional typical ones.

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A Study on Block Patterns for of Korean fashion Models (졸업작품 패션쇼 모델의 치수에 적합한 원형 연구)

  • Park, Sang-Hee;Kang, Kyoung-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.999-1011
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    • 2008
  • To most of the students studying fashion related major, the graduation fashion show is a big challenge. They have to put together all they learn and show what they can do to their future employers. They design, pattern work, and make up garments for the show all by themselves. Unfortunately. while they make up their garments, they usually don't Dow exactly body measurements of the models. So quite often they have to alter their art works up to the last minute of the fashion show opening. Sometimes such unadequate work process ruins their work. The purpose of this study is to suggest block patterns of Korean fashion models measurements for basic items, such as jacket and pants for male models and torso length block pattern, skirt and pants for female models. 20 male and 20 female professional models were measured. The block patterns were based on their measurements. After the first fitting test, patterns were corrected by their body characteristic. For both male and female models, it was found desirable to fix the shoulder width and make an adjustment to the patterns with a deviation of width and girth items. In case of the resultant patterns the satisfaction was made better. Model sizes proposed in this study are considered closer to the size of average models, since they were based on A-grade models who are currently working in Korea. The resultant patterns can be produced by simply making a slight adjustment to the width of the proposed pattern in this study.