• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.83-92
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• 2011

The properties and changes of geomorphic relief and coastal deposits were analyzed at Goreabul sand beach in Yeongdeok-gun, the largest that in east coast of Kyungsangbuk-do Province. As the result of grain size analysis, in almost season except summer, the sands mainly deposited in Goraebul sand beach because longshore current drift northward contrary to Gangwon-do east coast, and summer longshore current is weak or change direction to south ward. Sand beach mostly came form erosion owing to typoon and storm and was deposit more coarse sand in the summer, and was produced deposition actively in the fall and winter. Front side of sand dune came from deposition on sand every season by sea breeze, especially in the winter.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.382-390
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• 2015

To simulate a complicated hydrodynamic phenomena in the surf zone, the SWASH model is used in Haeundae Beach. The SWASH model is well known as a model competing with the Boussinesq-type model in terms of near shore waves and wave-induced currents modelling. This study is aimed to the detailed analysis of seasonal waves and wave-induced current simulation in Haeundae Beach, where the representative seasonal wave conditions was obtained from hourly measured wave data in 2014 by Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration( KHOA). Incident wave conditions were given as irregular waves by JONSWAP spectrum. The calculated seasonal wave-induced current patterns were compared with the field observation data. In summer season, a dominant longshore current toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident waves from the South and the bottom bathymetry, then some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. In the winter season, ESE incident waves generates a strong westward longshore currents. However, a weak eastward longshore currents appears at the restricted east side areas of the beach.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.68-79
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• 2023

Even though submerged breakwater reduces incident wave energy, it redistributes the coastal area's wave-induced current, sediment transport, and morphological change. This study examines the coastal hydrodynamics and the morphological response of a wave-dominated beach with submerged breakwaters installed through field observation and quasi-3D numerical modeling. The pre-and post-storm bathymetry, water level, and offshore wave under storm forcing were collected in Bongpo Beach on the East coast of Korea and used to analyze the coastal hydrodynamic response. Four vertically equidistant layers were used in the numerical simulation, and the wave-induced current was examined using quasi-3D numerical modeling. The shore normal incident wave (east-northeast) generated strong cross-shore and longshore currents toward the hinterland of the submerged breakwater. However, the oblique incident wave (east-southeast) induced the southeastward longshore current and the sedimentation in the northeast area of the beach. The results suggested that the incident wave direction is a significant factor in determining the current and sediment transport patterns in the presence of the submerged breakwaters. Moreover, the quasi-3D numerical modeling is more appropriate for estimating the wave transformation, current, and sediment transport pattern in the coastal area with the submerged breakwater.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.91-107
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• 1995

In this paper, previously proposed mechanisms of generation and maintenance of rip currents are grouped into three broad categories; (1) prismatic topography models, (2) non-prismatic topography models and (3) structural controls by natural and/or constructed features, such as headlands, piers. groins, jetties. etc. The prismatic models can explain the occurrence of a rip current on a planar beach, while non-prismatic model needs undulatory topography inside the surf zone to generate and maintain a rip current. Yet more detailed and thorough studies need to be conducted to include all relevant variables and to clarify the mechanism(s) governing rip current. Next a simple model is presented to predict mean longshore currents behind a longshore bar (or submerged breakwaters) by considering mass transport over the bar and the bar morphology. This hydrodynamic model could be extended to include the sedimentary feedback mechanism.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.166-179
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• 2018

This study aims at numerically investigating the water-surface characteristics such as wave height distribution depending on the current direction around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters in wave-current coexisting field which has not been considered in detail so far. In addition, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy, which act as the main external forces of formation of salient, are also examined. For numerical analysis, olaFlow which is open source code of CFD was used and the numerical tests included different types of target waves, both regular waves and irregular waves. Numerical results indicated that wave height variation with wave following or opposing a current behind the submerged breakwater is closely related to turbulent kinetic energy. Furthermore, it was found that weaker longshore currents are formed under wave-current coexisting field compared to the non-current conditions, and transport flow is attenuated. As a result, it was possible to understand the influence of current existence and direction (following and opposing) on the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.153-165
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• 2018

In this study, the performance of irregular wave field generation of olaFlow is first verified by comparing the frequency spectrum of the generated waves by the wave-source using olaFlow and the target wave. Based on the wave performance of irregular waves of olaFlow, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters, which act as the main external forces of the salient formation, are numerically investigated. The numerical results show that as the gap width between breakwaters decreases, the wave height in the center of the gap increases and as the gap width between breakwaters increases, the longshore currents become stronger. As a result, it is possible to understand the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.7-19
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• 2017

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about $45^{\circ}$ normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2008.05a
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• pp.914-918
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• 2008

연안지역의 갑작스런 개발은 예상치 못한 여러 가지 문제들을 발생시키고 있다. 이와 같은 문제들 중에서 가장 심각한 문제는 해안침식이다. 해안침식은 어떤 원인에 의해 토사의 평형이 손상되어 퇴적되는 양보다 더 많은 양이 유실되면서 해안선이 점점 후퇴하는 현상이다. 해안에 쌓여 있는 모래는 태풍과 폭풍해일로부터 육지를 보호하는 완충지대의 역할을 하고, 또한 관광자원으로도 그 활용가치가 증가하고 있기 때문에 침식현상을 분석하고 침식의 발생 및 진행을 억제하기 위한 연구가 반드시 필요하다고 하겠다. 본 연구에서는 해안침식을 제어하기 위한 기초적인 연구의 일환으로 연안류에 따른 연안표사의 분포특성에 대하여 살펴보았다. 연안류는 표사 이동이 가장 활발한 쇄파대로부터 해안선 사이에서 발생하는 흐름으로 파랑에 의해 발생한다. 일정경사를 갖는 해빈에 대해 연안류를 계산하고 계산된 연안류를 Komar(1977)가 Bagnold(1963) 모형을 이용하여 파의 응력과 흐름속도의 곱의 함수로 연안표사의 분포를 나타나낸 식에 대입하여 연안류에 따른 연안표사의 분포를 계산하였다.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.4 no.spc
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• pp.245-253
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• 2017

In this study, surface currents measured by small lagrangian GPS drifters (Aquadrifter) in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of nearshore surface current and wave-induced current to understand sediment transport mechanism near the crescentic bars in the surf-zone and near Kangneung breakwater and submerged breakwater in Anmok. The 8 times lagrangian drifter experiments were conducted mostly during in 2nd, 3rd, 4th intensive measurements in winter, summer, and spring seasons with long-term wave observation at the station W1. The analysed surface currents near the breakwaters in Anmok show that wave-induced currents at the middle of the submerged breakwater were separated and flowed toward the shoreline but offshore currents were dominant through the channels between the breakwaters. The longshore currents near the shoreline were flowed to the northwest (southeast) depending on the incoming waves from ENE (NNE). The surface nearshore offshore currents were generated mostly by waves and winds in case of high and low wave energy environments. Using the small-size lagrangian surface drifter experiments, we successfully measured longshore and offshore wave-induced currents in the surf-zone and near submerged breakwater close to Kangneung breakwater. The drifter experiment results show the availability of direct observation of nearshore surface currents to understand the mechanism of sediment transport analysing observed wave-induced current and ebb-current in the surf-zone generated by incoming waves and local winds.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.399-409
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• 2017

This study numerically investigates the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy acting as the main external forces of the salient formed behind the permeable submerged breakwaters. Shoreline response is also predicted by the longshore-induced flux. In this paper, a three-dimensional numerical wave tank based on the OLAFOAM, CFD open source code, is utilized to simulate the velocity field around permeable submerged breakwaters under the formation condition of salient. The characteristics of the velocity field around permeable submerged breakwaters with respect to the gap width between breakwaters and the installing position away from the shoreline under a range of regular waves for different wave height are evaluated. The numerical results revealed that as the gap width between breakwaters increases, the longshore currents become stronger. Furthermore, as the gap width becomes narrower, the point where flow converges moves from the center of the breakwater to the head part. As a result, it is possible to understand the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters. In addition, it was found that the longshore currents caused by the gap width between breakwaters and the installation position away from the shoreline are closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy.