• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.511-519
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• 2003

The traditional culture has been developed for a long time with an unique property according to folk character, custom and environment within an area. Especially in 1906, when the westerners were interested in oriental cultures more and more, Paul Poiret presented Japanese traditional dress of napping sleeve coats and harem pants, henceforth japanese fashion theme began to rise. The Japanese style rose as an important fashion item of the modern fashion, with various fashion themes such as orientalism, ethnic, folklore, ecology, etc., needless to say of activities of Japanese designers. The revealed patterns on Japanese dress and it's ornament plays a role of expressive decoration as well as stand for the nation, the ideology of the age and aesthetic consciousness. For this reason, it is necessary to study Japanese traditional patterns expressed in modern fashion systematically. Therefore, in this research, the demonstrated Japanese traditional patterns on the modern fashion were divided into natural, artificial and complex design and were looked out the characteristic, furthermore it was studied in regard that Japanese patterns were how to apply in modern fashion. It was concluded that the characteristics of the Japanese traditional patterns presented in the modern fashion were as follows: first, creation of environmental friendly design using plenty of natural materials; second, expression of paint-like impression and beauty of margins by simplifying of patterns; third, expression of amusing design by using bright colors and print; finally, various patterns were spreaded out complicated on dress. The characteristics of Japanese traditional patterns in the above were expressed in the modern fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.128-142
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• 2018

This study explores newborn clothing with regard to clothing type, construction, textiles, design, size, and label placement. Related consumer complaints are also analyzed. Analysis of 50 newborn clothing items revealed six types of newborn clothing: baenaet jeogori, baenaet gown, bodysuit, one-piece, shirt and pants set, and pants. The baenaet jeogori was the most common type, and the most commonly used fasteners were ties and snaps. The following characteristics were commonly observed: front opening, long raglan sleeves, mitten cuffs, cotton fabric, white/ivory color, animal print, contrast hem, $appliqu{\acute{e}}$, and size 60. In-depth interviews of 12 mothers with children under 24 months revealed that the baenaet jeogori was the most unsatisfactory type; the shirt and pants set and bodysuit were preferred. Interviewees were dissatisfied with types of openings, expressing a preference for snaps and complaining about ties, too many snaps, metal snaps, and shoulder openings. Overly wide or narrow sleeves resulted in improper fit, and long sleeves made it difficult to dress the baby. Interviewees required diverse sleeve length options. They were dissatisfied with heavy fabric for hot and warm seasons, and with labels attached inside clothing or outside near the neckline. Mothers with particularly small or big babies complained about limited sizes. To improve current newborn clothing, additional items such as shirt and pants sets or individual pants, front opening clothing with few snaps, proper sleeve fit with diverse length options, lightweight fabric for hot and warm seasons, label placement that avoids skin irritation, and size segmentation are recommended.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.15-25
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• 2003

In this study on the Persiandress called Persiandress or Mediandress, its names, styles, and structures that are still subject to a great deal of controversy were investigated. In addition, the reason why the Persiandress was wrongly named as Kandys by the early researchers was also examined. The documents of reliefs on the Apadanastairs in Persepolis and the European papers concerning this themes were subject of this analysis. Such investigation and examination results are summarized as follows. There is still no agreed name describing the Persiandress, which is called "Persiandress" or "Mediandress". Further, there is no definite conclusion on whether the Persiandress was made in one piece or two pieces. The first person who insisted that the Persiandress was made in one piece is a German archaeologist, Ernst Herzfeld. He said that the Persiandress was made in one long tetragonal piece, had a hole in the middle for head, and had lots of pleats when it was tied with a belt. On the contrary, researchers who insisted that the Persiandress was made in two pieces stressed the sleeve pleats in four folds, which is one of the representative characteristics, and said that such four-fold sleeve pleats would not be formed when the Persiandress was made in one piece and worn by a belt. Consequently, they have conducted studies according to their insistence and the resultant pattern. Kandys, the Median's typical dress, is a coat worn over the jacket and trousers. Although it had sleeves, the Median did not use them. Indeed, Kandys was used as a kind of cloak. However, the wrong term, Kandys is still used in Korea. So, it is necessary to correct use of such wrong term.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.163-173
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to investigate the Ku which was worn by nomadic tribes which was Khitai, Mongols and Manchus. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The fur clothes were very important clothes that nomadic tribes put on in order to protect them against the cold. The Ku was an outfit for protection against the cold. It was made of ani-mal fur and its style was tight sleeve and long dress. 2. The Ku was worn in all social classes including emperor, nobles and the masses in ancient China and Asia dynasty. After the nomadic tribes estabilished dynasty in China the style of Ku was changed. All kinds of animal fur was used to make the Ku but the volume of fur, kinds and colors were classified severely by their social position. In Khitai dynasty the Ku was worn in same style. But the emperor wore the Ku of silver marten. The noble class wore the Ku of purple, black and blue marten and silver squirrel skin. The masses wore the Ku of the other colors marten, sheep, squirrel and dessert fox skin. In Mongol dynasty, the emperor wore the Ku of purple marten, silver squirrel, silver fox and black fox skin. The nobles wore the Ku of the other colors marten and squirrel. The masses wore the Ku of degraded animal fur. Before the Manchus estabilished the varient races dynasty in China, the rich man preferred the Ku of marten, squirrel, fox, goat furs. But the poorman preferred the Ku of cow, horses, pig, sheep, cat, dog, snake and deer skin. After the manchus conquered the China, the manners of dress were changed. Generally the fur did not appear in right side of garment, but high quality or noble fur appeared outside. Sometimes the inside or outside of Ku was made of silk fabrics and sleeves, neck-band was made of the high quality fur.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.1216-1227
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• 2002

The objective in the part H of this study was to investigate the effects of materials, sleeves, trimming, and perceivers gender on impression formation. Stimuli consisted of 13 color photographs of a female model wearing a wedding dress which were manipulated according to clothing cues. A semantic differential sale of 4 dimensions was used. These were attractiveness, neatness, femininity, and prettiness. Samples were 312 males and females. For the effect of sleeves, there were significant main effects in attractiveness, femininity, neatness, and prettiness. Three-quarters lace ruffled sleeves increased the perception of positive attractiveness, femininity, and prettiness. Flounced sleeves had a positive effect on the perception of neatness. Long-tight sleeves had a negative effect on the perception of attractiveness, femininity, and prettiness. Sleeveless dresses increased the perception of negative neatness. There was an interaction effect between sleeves and the perceivers gender on neatness. For the onぉ of material, there were significant main effects in neatness, femininity, and prettiness. Solid cloth had a positive effect on the perception of neatness and negatively on prettiness. The combination of lace and solid cloth increased the perception of positive femininity and prettiness. lace had a negative effect on the perception of neatness. Satin increased the perception of negative femininity. There was an interaction effect between material and perceivers gender on prettiness. The main effect of trimmings was its effect on prettiness. Ribbons increased the perception of positive prettiness. Not having any trimmings had a negative effect on the perception of prettiness. There was an interaction effect between timings and the perceivers gender on neatness. The results of this study confirm that image perception of wedding dresses becomes different according to the materials, details, and perceiver's gender.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.21-28
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• 2024

The public can access movies more easily than any other cultural genre. The film's costumes convey the social, political, and cultural climate of that time period. Additionally, it subtly conveys the message of the movie, including the intentions of the director and the characters. Filmmakers can now use fact-based materials to plan their films, and audiences can now watch costume in movies with objective standards, particularly in period dramas, thanks to the advancements in over-the-top (OTT) services. The 77th British Academy costume Award went to the movie Napoleon because of how much emphasis it placed on the outfit. Ninety-five percent of the costume was made by experts in military uniforms and costumery. In contrast to the previous aristocratic and exaggerated Rococo costume, Napoleonic clothing had a natural and common-class character. A natural-shaped Chemise dress composed of light, reflective material first appeared in the Directoire era, just after the French Revolution. Chemise dresses made of a variety of materials gained popularity during the Empire era. With Napoleon taking the throne and Josephine becoming the empress, the vibrant court culture resurfaced during the Empire era. The silk was embellished with gold thread and embroidery, train dangling forms, and different types of sleeves appeared in Empire styles. They wore Pellisse and shawls under the coat. The hair style had long, ancient hair and was adorned with fillets. They also wore straw hats, bonnets, and caps. Long gloves and parasols were also popular accessories, as were pearl or colored jewelry necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings. During the Empire era, tiaras were fashionable. Shoes were either low-heeled pumps or sandals. The movie uses Chemise and Empire costumes, which are versatile enough to be used in a range of settings and eras. When it came to details, the type of sleeve was employed without regard to time, such as when using those from an earlier or later period. Since jewelry was worn more often than not in that era, practically every character has earrings on their necklaces. Nearly exact replicas of the coronation costume can be found in paintings by Jacques-Louis David. The red trains, Josephine's Empire dress, the crown, the Tiara, and the costumes of every character in attendance were all clearly identifiable in terms of form and color. To further aid viewers in understanding and enhancing the film's overall coherence, a scene featuring David drawing the coronation was added. Overall, there were differences in that the historical costumes were accurately recreated, the materials and details were utilized without restriction, and some of the costumes were designed with modern materials or accessories that were used more than the historical costumes. This section appears to have been written to highlight the beauty of the characters' personalities or settings. There is a limitation to this study in that it only looked at aristocratic clothing, which includes Josephine's. We will concentrate on male clothing in future research.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• The Korean Journal of Ecology
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.355-366
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to investigate the changes of water quality and the patterns of self-purification with season in Gokneung stream. The vegetation in the ecosystem around Gokneung stream was dominated by Quercus species. In the physicochemical analysis based on the contents of DO, BOD, conductivity and total phosphorus, the upstream seemed to have been polluted, but the downstream was self-purified. In biological investigation by bentic macroinvertebrates, the result was similar to that in the physicochemical analysis. The self-purification constant based on BOD of the upstream, 1.013, was the highest. In the self-purification constants with month, that of September was 0.995 and that of January was 0.272. These results indicated that the self purification capacities of spring and autumn were larger than those of winter and summer in Gokneung stream.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.59-82
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• 1995

All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in $\ulcorner$Dream of the read Chamber$\lrcorner$. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.