• Title/Summary/Keyword: long sleeve

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Chinese Po corresponding to Jikryung of Chosun Era - Focusing on Yesal and Jikshin - (조선시대 直領과 관련있는 중국의 袍制 -예살과 직신을 중심으로 -)

  • 이주영;권영숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.6
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    • pp.127-142
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    • 2000
  • The names of Chinese Po corresponding to Korean Jikryung are Yesal and Jikshin. Thus the purpose of this paper is to review of the shapes and usage of Yesal and Jikshin and then make a comparative review between the twos and Jikryung having side Moo. Results of the study are described as follows : 1. The Chinese costume, Yesal is translated literally into Korean, Euisal or Euisal Jikryung and called Euisal Diknyung or Uisakot in Korean while Jikshin is translated into Korean, Jikryung and called Diknyung. 2. Yesal is a new type of clothing as created during the Ming period. The costume is the remnant type of Yosunoja and Byunsunoja in the periods of Sung and Yuan. Types of Yesal are classified into two, or one whose rear part's upper and lower areas are connected with each other and whose front part's upper and lower areas are net, the other in which those upper and lower areas are disconnected both in front and rear parts. 3. Types of Jikshin are classified into two, one having Pa and the other having loot. The latter is re-classified into two, one whose sleeve is large and wide, the whole length of which is long and which was usually worn by Sain, and the other whose sleeve is small and narrow, the whole length of which is short and which was by the grass root. 4. Yesal and Jikryung both having Pa have the almost same shapes except their front parts. Baerae of the former is more curved than that of the latter. Also the both were used as official uniforms worn by civil and military officials from higher to lower levels. 5. Jikshin and Jikryung both having Pa have the same shapes. Baerae of the former is more curved than that of the latter. The both were used as official uniforms worn by civil and military officials under a King and as casual costumes by Sadaeboo. In terms of color, Jikshin and Jikryung both employed red, blue and green, Especially the red color was favorably used both in China and Chosen at that time.

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A Study on the Costume of The Koryo Dynasty(2) -See through by human being, on the written Budist scripture(2)-2 (고려시대 인물관련 제작물을 통해서 본 복식에 관한 연구 (2) -고려시대 인물관련 제작 불화(佛畵) 중 '사경화'를 통해서 본 복식에 관한 연구(2) -평서민 남녀복식을 주로하여)

  • 임명미
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.23
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    • pp.211-223
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    • 1994
  • It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and ten pictures of the writtened Budist scripture. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the first year of the king Kong-yang based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and the Sutra of the Lotus. 가) Men's wear : 1. Hair style and hair dress : 1) Man bored a hair and put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots, and tied up with a hair ribbon. A kinds of hats were Tung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and Chin-hien-kuan and as a court dress. The man wore pok-여 as an official uniform and wore a pok-du , kun-mo as an everyday dress and wore a helmet as a solidier's uniform. 2. Clothes : 1) They wore Yuan-yu-kuan and Chin-hien -kuan as a court dress, and wore belt, boots, pleated decorated ling skirt also. They wore round shape collor big sleeve jacket, small sleeve long coat, belt , boots as an official dress. 2) the soldiers wore helmet, scarf, yangdang-kap , hung-kap, bak-kap, we-yo-kap, kun-kap and jok-kap and carries arms. 3) The young boys bind his hair up one, two and three angle shape an tied up a hair ribbons. 나) Women's wear : 1. Hair Style and hair dress : high rank ladies made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and tied with hair ribbons , and decorated with precious stone, pan shape head dress , wheel shape head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) high rank ladie's wore kun -kyun attached jacket , and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated on skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf.

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Study on the 'Round Collar Po(袍類)' Illustrations of 『Akhak-gwebeom(樂學軌範)』 (『악학궤범(樂學軌範)』 도식화의 '둥근깃형 포류(袍類)' 연구)

  • Ko, Yoon Jung;Cho, Woo Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.4
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    • pp.1-18
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    • 2015
  • The subject of study is about the illustrations of the round collar Po(袍類) in the Akhak-gwebeom(樂學軌範) which was published in 1493. These illustrations are painted records of what musicians and dancers in the palace were wearing during performances. While each illustration of the Po is similar in that they all have round collars, each has a different name Sam(衫), Ui(衣), Dallyeong(團領) and formative characteristics, and these features were analyze in the study. Sam refers to the Gongbok(公服) as it has long and big sized sleeves, Ui is the word used to represent the basic unit of outerwear, and Dallyeong is believed to refer to the Sibok(時服) and Sangbok(常服). In the formative aspects, Sam's auxiliary sleeve is one of the ways wearing the sleeve of innerwear shown outward and it's assumed to have been produced for visually matching the formal look as well as the convenience free to use of hands. The Mu of Dan-ui(丹衣) is less than the number of the excavated artifacts, it produced in a relatively simplified form. Also, illustration of Dallyeong corresponds to the artifacts and configuration of the 15th to 16th centuries, the costume culture of that time seems to be reflected specifically. While Hyungbae(胸背) used in the form of rectangles and circles such as petals. it tried to represent the country at the official event by borrowing the upper class in the costume that musicians and dancers wear, also showed the rank and social status symbolically by having the differences in the shape and pattern. While the costume culture at the time is reflected, it can be found that the objective of raising the country's dignity is implied by transforming the detailed structure for the practicality, borrowing the costume elements of the high social status and transformed them.

The Formative Characteristics of the Jik-Ryeong-Gyoim Style of Men's Coat Excavated from the Yeosan Song's Family Tombs (여산송씨 일가 묘 출토 직령교임식 남자 포의 조형 특성)

  • Lee, Joo-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.9
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    • pp.51-67
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style that were excavated from the tombs of the Yeosan Song family. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Except Dapho, all of the above mentioned coat were usually worn in the late 15th and late 16th centuries. Jikryeong and Cheolik were often worn in both of the centuries. But Aekjureum was often worn in the late 15th century and Jikryeong with no side hem and Jikryeong of Dopo style, in the late 16th century. Generally, the men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style had a short fore part and a long rear part, doubled kalgit of banmokpan style and a narrow sleeve in the late 15th century, while fore and rear parts of the same length, kalgit of ordinary style and the sleeve of bean chaff shape in the late 16th century. In both of the centuries, the coat had the outer Seop that was doubled and used short, narrow coat strings to be adjusted. Samgakmu was used to Jikryeong with no side hem and Aekjureum. Out of the coat, those which were lined or padded or quilted with cotten used Samgakmu, but those which were unlined didn't. To adjust the coat, usually, a pair of short, narrow coat strings was used. The coat had the coat strings directly stitched on them or indirectly connected to them by means of the coat string hanger.

Development and Evaluation of the Korean Army's Ergonomic Flight Jacket (인간공학적 육군 비행재킷의 개발 및 평가)

  • Choi, Hee Eun;Choi, Kueng-mi
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.118-128
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    • 2021
  • This study used a preliminary survey to help develop an ergonomic flight jacket that is suitable for the working environment and mission performance. The results are as follows. The ergonomic sleeve pattern was designed with a forward 165° incline that considers a shoulder joint direction suitable for the motion; in addition, a closely design opening provided warmth and safety from fire. As a result of the dimensional suitability, pilots evaluated that sleeve length and total length of the developed flight jacket were a little long (p<.01), while flight engineers and crew evaluated that those of the developed flight jacket were appropriate (p<.01). Pilots evaluated that chest circumference and waist circumference were large (p<.05), while flight engineers and crews evaluated that those of the developed flight jacket were appropriate. The evaluation of the motion suitability indicated that pilots, flight engineers and crew found the developed flight jacket more comfortable than the current flight jacket (p<.05, p<.01, p<.001). The evaluation of the usability of pockets and penholders indicated that pilots, flight engineers and crew found the developed jacket easier to use (p<.01). The flight engineers and crew evaluated that the appearance of the developed flight jacket was better than the current flight jacket (p<.05). The results of this study show that the difference of environment and mission performance has a significant influence on evaluation; therefore, it is necessary to develop separate military uniforms that included a winter flight jacket to reflect the needs of each group.

A Study on Women's Clothing Design Adapted from Acjurumpo (액주름포를 응용한 여성복 디자인 연구)

  • Kim, Weol-Kye
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.17 no.5
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    • pp.886-896
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    • 2009
  • Acjurumpo is one of the most representatives daily outfit of Joseon Dynasty is a clothes which has a characteristic of having creases under the armhole and it has a lot of chance to use on modern clothes design. This study wants to provide a information on traditional clothes to the public and modernize traditional clothes by designing modern women clothes by adapting Acjurumpo, one of Joseon Dynasty's men' daily outfit which is not very well-known to publics as a link of traditional clothes modernization. Acjurumpo's characteristic is usually having a knife-shape collar and having two sup and one sup, but outside sup of having two sup was more common. There were tongsu, duri, as a example of shape of sleeve. For Mu the combinations were different from Acjurum starting with a shape of trapezoid, triangle to big Mu on a body of side line. For Gorum there were two pairs of long and short Gorum, two pairs of short Gorum or one pair of short or long Gorum. Slit of po was on both side or back. Acjurumpo which was adapted on modern clothes, it was usually used on Hanbok companies that used traditional shape or similar shape to design children' clothes. This study designed three summer one-piece and two winter jacket for women clothes adapting Acjurumpo. And it was designed by using modern material adapting Acjurumpo's characteristics, changing knife-shape collar, Acjurum, mu and Gorum. This study expects for popularization of many traditional clothes developed by modern design in future.

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Development of Beam-Column Connection for The New Apartment Structural System (장수명 공동주택용 보-기둥 접합부 시공방법 개발)

  • Yoon, Tae-Ho;Hong, Won-Kee;Kim, Sun-Kuk;Park, Seon-Chee;Yun, Dai-Young
    • KIEAE Journal
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    • v.10 no.6
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    • pp.145-151
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    • 2010
  • Bearing wall system was used extensively in most multi-residential apartment buildings in Korea. However, bearing wall apartments have the lack of architectural plan flexibility, remodelling-incompatible, causing serious economic losses in terms of construction waste. Recently, many researchers have studied the use of Rahmen structure as a potential alternative. The beam-column connection in the paper for long-life apartment housing forms connection of a Rahmen structure utilizing the advantages of steel and reinforced concrete. In addition, reduction of cast-in place concrete and construction schedule is expected by using precast concrete. Reduction effect of quantity decreased construction costs and $CO_2$ emission of key construction materials. However, verifying the feasibility of new construction method entails numerous challenges. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to analyze the construction feasibility of sleeve, coupler, and pressure welding connections for long-life apartment building structure. A 3D modeling software was used to perform the analysis, and a real scale model was created to verify the results of construction feasibility. By verifying the construction feasibility of beam-column connections, this study will contribute to the efficient application of these methods on construction sites.

Wear Comfort Evaluation on Water-vapor-permeable (WVP) Garments Using a Movable Sweating Thermal Manikin (발한써멀마네킨을 이용한 투습방수의류의 착용쾌적성 평가)

  • Kang, Inhyeng;Lee, Han Sup
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.37 no.8
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    • pp.1095-1106
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    • 2013
  • This study evaluated the wear comfort properties of water-vapor-permeable (WVP) garments using a movable sweating thermal manikin. Manikin tests were performed in a climatic chamber (temperature T=20, $35{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ and relative humidity $H=50{\pm}10%$) using seven sportswear outfits (a long sleeve shirts and a long pants) made with seven different WVP fabrics. Physiological responses of wear trials could be correlated with measurement parameters of the thermal manikin experiment; subsequently, a regression model that represented a final comfort sensation could be obtained. The regression model developed in this work is based on thermal manikin measurements; consequently, it provides an independent comfort sensation level in a relatively short time at a low cost while maintaining the reproducibility of results. It translates into more actual choices for sportswear manufacturers and sportswear consumers.

Frictional and Electrical Characteristics of Herringbone Grooved Bearing for Scanner motor

  • Jeong, Sung-Hoon;Lee, Young-Ze
    • KSTLE International Journal
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.146-149
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    • 2001
  • Recently, laser printers have been developed to have high-speed laser scanner with hydrodynamic bearings. Among the bearings, herringbone grooved bearing (HGB) produces hydrodynamic pressure by high-speed rotating and so make the surfaces between the shaft and sleeve separated. Accordingly, the bearings with non-contact rotation are suitable to high-speed rotating and have long bearing life and reliability. HGB is a kind of journal bearing and uses oil for a lubricant. HGB has excellent stiffness and load carrying capacity. Also, HGB is leakage-free due to groove pumping action. Consequently, HGB is valuable to be applied to high-performance devices such as hard disk drive, copier, and so on.

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Conventional Female Donor Costume of Cave 79 of Kumtura

  • Shenya, Shenyan
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.2
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    • pp.210-214
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    • 2009
  • Cave 79 of Kumtura grottoes, is the best preserved cave, which has an important meaning for research on Uighur costume. This paper is intended to analyze the costume characteristics of female donors in Cave 79 by comparing image materials between Dunhuang murals and other murals in Xinjiang province. In Cave 79, female donor wears red robe with tight sleeve, whose collar is crescent-shaped decorated. Two different opinions are upheld for this decoration. One regards this as the turn-down collar, while the other believes this as decoration on V-neckline. Red robe is quite common in female donors of Xinjiang and Dunhuang murals and a female in fresco is wearing a crown in a triangle red headwear style, regarded as red silk and drooping at head. Female donors wear an extra coat, kame hair clasp, red jacket, light-colored high-waist skirt with a long-tail waistband, and tangerine Pibo (silk ribbon) with scattered small flowers. All these costume styles are commonly-used by Han females. The kame headwear is also the common ornament for Han females and the female's hairstyle is in cone shape on head by a white kame. Current costumes are similar but not completely same.

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