• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.4 s.54
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• pp.285-287
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• 2005

Using optimized standard methods, which were previously done by sensory tests, many factors have been analyzed and their significance were determined according to gloss and gloss-lasting capability in lipstick. Analyzing some factors we could conclude that the effective factors were the kind of wax, amount of volatile silicone oil, and stick hardness in the aspect of lipstick's gloss. And in the point of lipstick's gloss-lasting properties, vital few X's were quantity of volatile silicone oil stick hardness, and polymer contents and so on. We successfully have tried new analytical approach, 6-sigma to general property of lipstick. Furthermore this study will be a base on the prescription design in gloss-enhanced products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.182-192
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• 1996

In this study, the relationship between wax matrix in lipstick and sweating was investigated by observing the change of size and shape of wax matrix with sweating by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). For observation by SEM, a lipstick sample was frozen in liquid nitrogen, then the oil in the lipstick was extracted out in cold isopropanol($-70^{\circ}C$) for 1-3days. After isopropanol was evaporated, the sample was sputtered with gold, and examined by SEM. When examined the sweated sample by SEM, the change of wax matrix underneath the surface from fine, uniform structure to coarse, nonuniform structure was observed, which was resulted from the caking of surrounding wax matrix. That is, the oil underneath the surface was migrated to the surface of lipstick with sweating, consequently the wax matrix at that region was rearranged into the coarse matrix. In case of flamed lipstick, sweating was delayed and the wax matrix was much coarser than that of unflamed one. Its larger wax matrix at surface region was good for including oil. The effect of molding temperature on sweating was also studied. As the molding temperature was increased, sweating was greatly reduced and the size of wax matrix was increased. It was also found that sweating was influenced with the compatinility of wax and oil. A formula consisting of wax and oil which have good compatibility has a tendency of reduced sweating and increased size of wax matrix. When pigment was added to wax and oil. It was also found that sweating was influenced with the passage of time by observing a thick membrane of wax on surface of lipstick after a month from molding. In case of some lipsticks, the size of wax matrix was altered to bigger or smaller. In conclusion, the structure of wax matrix at the surface region of lipstick was changed with the process of foaming, molding temperature, compatibility of wax and oil, addition of pigment, and the passage of time. In most cases, as the size of wax matrix was increased, sweating was reduced and delayed.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.197-200
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• 2012

To develop lipstick products with superior moisturizing effect using moisture base, bound water capacity and water holding capacity were investigated by DSC. Bound water capacity of the lipstick sample excluding moisture base is found to be 5.12 %. DSC measurement showed that bound water capacity and the concentration of moisture base were positively correlated. Additionally, DSC measurements and in vitro effective water holding capacity measurement showed similar patterns. Therefore, measuring of bound water capacity by DSC can predict the moisturizing effect of lipstick products.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.162-177
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• 2003

It has been known that the color of skin reflects the blood flow within. In lips, the capillaries close to the skin surface are numerous; hence lips are redder than the rest of face. However, dermatological research on lips is not as advanced as research on facial or body skin, and little was known about the relationship between relatively dull-colored lips and skin blood flow. The physiological differences between colorful and dull-colored lips were studied by a two-dimensional laser Doppler blood flow analyzer, a spectrometer for the measurement of the degree of oxygen saturation, and a confocal microscope for observing inside lips non-invasively. Dull-colored lips and the corner of lips (dull-colored compared to the center) showed relatively poor blood flow and lower oxygenated hemoglobin. It was found that colorful lips (generally the young) had a blood flow that tended to run straight in parallel with the skin surface. This unique blood-capillary structure can express clear red blood. Those with dull-colored lips had lost this unique structure. Their blood ran perpendicularly from the deep of the skin and down back again into the deep part as like the blood circulation patterns of facial skin. Therefore, the lips of the latter group had fewer blood capillaries near skin surface in the lips than that of the colorful-lips group. A lipstick containing a-glucosyl-hesperidin, which is derived from certain citrus fruits and can enhance blood circulation, was applied for evaluating its effects. Blood flow was increased 30 min after the application. After two weeks of daily application, the lips' condition became noticeably less dull. These findings suggest that the decrease of blood flow in dull-colored lips is caused by the loss of the unique capillary structure and the use of the lipstick to increase blood flow can give a vivid color to lips.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.271-279
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• 2013

Water-soluble collagen (30 wt%) was entrapped within oil phase of lipstick using reversed micelle method to improve the moisture capacity of the lipstick. Reversed micelles containing collagen were prepared using caprylic/capric triglyceride as external phase and polyoxyethylene (10) octylphenyl ether (Triton X-100) and 1-dodecanol as surfactant and co-surfactant, respectively. The formation of reversed micelle encapsulating collagen was confirmed by measuring electric conductivity and UV-vis spectrum using methylene blue (MB). The stability and moisture capacity of the lipstick containing 20 wt% collagen encapsulated reversed micelles were observed by measuring rheology property, moisture content and amino acid content. The molecular ratio (W, water-pool) of water to surfactant (Triton X-100) in the most stable reversed micelle was ${\leq}$ 10. The hardness of the lipstick had no difference with that of the lipstick without reversed micelle, and the moisture content was increased to 59% and the amino acid content was 92.7%.

• Applied Microscopy
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.43-48
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• 2012

This study shows that ceresin wax, candellila wax and microcrystalline wax mixed together with liquid paraffin oil to produce lipsticks (LS-1, LS-2) and capric/caprylic triglyceride oil added to produce lipsticks (LS-3, LS-4). After each type of lipsticks were molded, LS-1 and LS-3 was put into a cooling chamber ($5^{\circ}C$). LS-2 and LS-4 was put into a cooling chamber ($5^{\circ}C$) for 18 hours and kept in an incubator ($45^{\circ}C$) for 5 hours and put again into a cool chamber ($5^{\circ}C$). After that, the wax's three dimensional network structure was observed under scanning electron microscopy. Regardless of the kind of oil, the LS-1 and LS-3 wax structure had more distinct shape than the lipstick wax structure of LS-2 and LS-4. Also, regardless of the kind of wax, the three dimensional network structure was modified as the storage temperature increased. As a result, the lipstick's molding temperature increased, the wax's structure size also increased and the shape irregularly modified. This modification causes sweating phenomenon which affected lipstick's surface rheological property.

• The monthly packaging world
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• s.369
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• pp.64-68
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• 2024

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.152-160
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• 1997

It has been used that fluorinated compounds could be applied to Make-up products. It is that fluorinated compounds are hydrophobicity, lipophobicity and homophobicity. These fluorinated compounds are reported to form a highly protective and effective film against most aggressive chemical and physical agents. In this study we maed a success to formulate the new type of lipstic using perfluoropolymethylisopropylether with low molecular weight which is long wearing and comfortable to use. This PPIE was adsorbed more than 90% in this experiment and formed the well-balanced gel networks even if the selected PPIE is 100% volatile at room temperature. On the basis of the adsorption of PPIE, we developed the new type lipstick, which was highly-lip feeling and had long wearing and non coloration. And these characteristics were verified by actual consumer test.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.469-479
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• 2003

A novel branched wax has been developed for the control of the hardness of oil-wax gels. Using this wax, glossier application and smoother texture but tough lipstick can be obtained. Oil-wax gels are oily solids composed of liquid and crystalline solid oils (waxes). They are widely used in various cosmetic products, especially lipsticks. The control of gel hardness is one of the most important techniques in improvement of the lipstick quality. Addition of small amounts of commercial branched paraffin wax (e.g. microcrystalline wax, b-PW) to n-paraffin wax (n-PW) has been commonly used to increase gel hardness. However, gel hardness is very sensitive to the quantity of b-PW and the gel obtained is not always hard enough for practical use. In this study we examined the relationship between the gel hardness and the properties of the wax crystal in the gel. We have found that, when b-PW is added to n-PW, the wax crystal size becomes smaller (hardening the gels) and its crystallinity is decreased (softening the gels) simultaneously. Considering this result, we have developed a novel branched wax, Bis(polyethylenyl)- tetramethyldisiloxane (named ESE). ESE molecules are composed of a central tetramethyldisiloxane unit (branch unit) with polyethylene units at both ends. The central unit may suppress crystal growth while the ends are expected to prevent a decrease in wax crystallinity during crystallization. When ESE is added to n-PW, the wax crystal obtained becomes smaller without decreasing in crystallinity; consequently, the gel hardness is dramatically increased. By using ESE, the total amount of wax in a lipstick can be decreased by 30％ without spoiling the stick toughness, thereby achieving glossy application and smooth texture.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.59-64
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• 2005

In case of lipsticks, observer's subjective sensitivity has been the main index to estimate gloss and gloss-lasting capability. The glossmeter has been applied to measure the gloss of make-up cosmetics like nail enamel, however is not effective for lipstick because of uneven sampling. Also gloss-lasting capability couldn't have been measured. In this study, we optimized measurement methods of gloss and gloss-lasting capability of lipsticks, which are highly correlated to subjective sensory tests. We set up the standard methods of gloss measurement by changing application conditions, for example, materials, sizes and application number of times and so on. And we introduced optimizing measurement system, in which shaking speed and temperature were controlled to measure gloss-lasting capability. Applying our methods, the gloss values were very close to the results of sensory tests, and we could express the gloss and gloss-lasting capability of lipsticks numerically Repeatability and reproducibility of our methods were certified by six-sigma statistical tool.