• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제13권4호
• /
• pp.388-399
• /
• 1989

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of garment design, fabric type and the presence of lining on the thermal insulation value $(I_{cle}\;and\;I{cl})$ and clothing area factor $(f_{cl})$ of skirts. A standing, electrically heated thermal maninkin was used to measure the insultation value of eighty skirts-five skirt styles with eight different fabrics, with and without lining. The air temperature of the chamber was set at $22.2^{\circ}C{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ , air velocity was limited to less than 0.1 m/s, and relative humidity was approximately $50\%$. The results are as follows: 1) The Ic, values of gathered skirt and flared skirt, which had high $f_{cl}$ values, were significantly higher than those of other skirts, though the highest $I_{cle}$ value among five styles wer pegged skirt. 2) Insulation values of various skirts were more relevant with physical properties such as thickness, air permeability, and thermal transmission of the materials rather than fiber content. 3) The addition of lining made significant difference in the insulation values of skirts and the differences of gathered and flared skirt were significantly higher than those of othere types of skirts.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제35권2호
• /
• pp.111-122
• /
• 1997

This thesis researched for the conservation of a suit of armor, one glove, one belt, and on knife case that General Jung, Gong-chung had been worn in the early 17 th centuries. The armor was Doojung-kab for the battle. It was made of two kinds of fabrics, one of them was silk satin's outer fabrics, the other was quilt4d cotton's lining. as the armor was made of silk and cotton, it was treated by dry solvents and dry soap. In the dry cleaning method, used solvents were n-hexane, cyclohexane, benzene, and n-decane. the volume ratio of dry soap was 120: 1. The reaction temperature was 30℃, and reaction time was 10 to 30 minutes per one turn. The glove, belt and knife case were made with leather. They were dipped on the polyethyleneglycol 150 saturated solution during 24hours at 50℃ and then dried naturally. They were washed by toluene to remove the untreated pp.E.G. on the surfaces. It was sterilized by two gases of methylenebromide and ethyleneoxied. For the conservation, it was packed thoroughly by ？ polyethylene film sheet without air.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제24권1호
• /
• pp.9-15
• /
• 1986

It is studied that the typical garments of Korea Dynasty, especially focused on half-sleeved Saeng jo Po and conspicuous kinds of fabrics,. Characteristics of this Po are doubled collar, pleats, half-sleeved, a partial lining sewed in the back of an unlined coat, a breast-tie, and so on. It is that a girdle of Po had been used from the early Korea Dynasty, contrary to the general theory that a girdle of Po was the special characteristic of early Korea Dynasty in the garments history of Korea. It is that the species, it is that there are may characteristic way of patterns in the Korea Dynasty, such as turtle patterns, cloud patterns, swastika patterns. etc.

• 박물관보존과학
• /
• 제18권
• /
• pp.19-34
• /
• 2017

이징 묘 출토 목질류에 대한 수종 분석 및 복식 중에서 대표 직물류에 대한 재질 분석을 실시하였다. 조사 결과, 목질류로 분류된 외관, 내관, 칠성판, 삽은 모두 소나무류(Pinus densiflora)로 식별되었다. 직물류 분석 결과, 삽 부착 직물과 명정, 오낭은 견직물이었다. 적삼은 평직 면직물이었으며 버선의 경우 겉감은 면직물, 안감은 마직물이었다. 견직물 중에서 오낭의 우족·좌족은 수자직(繻子織) 문단이고 나머지는 평직 견직물인 주(紬)로 확인되었다. 적외선 분석 결과, 삽에는 구름무늬가 전체적으로 그려져 있었으며, 명정과 오낭에는 묵서가 있었다.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권2호
• /
• pp.75-91
• /
• 2015

This study is about Jongi-sim(Paper used for interlining) used in costumes of the Joseon Dynasty. Terms related to Jongi-sim include 'Anji(按紙)', 'Soh(槊)' and 'Gyeok(隔)'. Anji is a term that refers to Jongi-sim used on padded clothes. Soh refers to stiff and thick paper inserted between fabrics. Gyeok is predicted to be a term that refers to the use of paper as both interlining and lining. Chojuji(草注紙) was used for Jongi-sim in Cheolik, Aekjueum, Baji and Dae among kings and crown princes' ceremonial costumes. Chojuji and Jeojuji(楮注紙) were used in women's royal costumes such as Jeogori, Hosu and Chima. Doryeonji(搗鍊紙) was used in Dae and Yangyieom. Gongsangji(供上紙) was used for the interlining or lining in Yangyieom. Excavated costumes that used Jongi-sim for the entire clothes are Cheolik and Jangjeogori. Jongi-sim placed in Git(collar) was sometimes placed together with cotton. Geodeulji of Jangot used paper in invisible parts as to replace fabric by paper. Danryeong and Dapho attached Jongi-sim to Mu, and stiff paper was inserted.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제26권12호
• /
• pp.1685-1693
• /
• 2002

다양한 용도로 사용되고 있는 라미네 이 팅 직물은 주로 별도로 제조된 고분자 필름 또는 막을 접착제, 열, 압력 등을 이용하여 기포(基布)와 결합시키는 방법으로 제조되어 진다. 이축연신시킨 Poly(tetrafluoroethylene) (PTFE) sheet는 매우 우수한 높은 투과성을 지니는 다공성 물질이 며, 본 연구에서는 이 막을 나일론 직물에 라미네이팅시킨 투습방수직물을 시료로 사용하여 라미네이팅 후의 역학특성 변화를 분석 하였다. 라미네이팅에 따른 투습방수직물의 물성과 역학특성의 변화에 관하여 살펴본 결과 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 3-layer 라미네이팅 직물(base fabric-PTFE membrane-knitted lining)의 인열강도는 2-layer라미네이팅 직물 (base fabric-PTFE membrane)에 비해 매우 높게 나타났으며, 가공 전 직물과 비교하여 코팅직물에서 나타난 것과 같은 인열강도의 감소는 나타나지 않았다. 직물-PTFE 막 복합체 의 경우, 라미네 이 팅 이 파단강도 및 파단신도 의 증가에 기여 한 것으로 나타났으며 특히 3-layer 라미네이팅 직물의 경우, 신장률이 20%를 넘어서면서 강도가 현저히 증가하였다. 의복을 착용하였을 때 가해질 수 있을 정도의 소변형(small deformation) 하에서의 역학특성 에 있어서는 라미네이팅에 의해 전단특성이 가장 유의한 변화를 나타내었다. 전단강성(G)과 전단 히스테리시스 (2HG,2HG5)모두 증가하였고, primary hand value 중에서는 stiffness 가장 현저한 증가를 나타내었다

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
• /
• 제11권6호
• /
• pp.2292-2299
• /
• 2010

온열안마기의 내부천으로 사용되고 있는 직물의 내구성을 향상시키고자 기존 PET/면 혼방직물의 마모현상을 분석하고, 그 문제점을 보완할 수 있는 난연성 PET 직물을 설계/제조한 후 물리적 성능 및 내구성을 평가하였다. 기존 직물의 경우 구동부분의 반복적인 마찰에 의한 마모뿐만 아니라, 구동시 내부천의 이동에 의해 발생하는 접힘 현상이 회복되지 못하기 때문에 직물의 파손이 가속화되는 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 섬유재질의 변경, 신축사, 강연사, 조직의 변경 등을 적용하여 물리적 성능 및 내마모성을 크게 개선한 내부천을 제조하였다. 특히 신축사를 사용 한 직물의 내구성은 크게 향상되어 기존 직물 대비 2배 이상의 사용시간을 증가시킬 수 있었으며, 강연사를 사용한 직물은 약 1.5배 정도 내마모시간이 증가하는 결과를 얻었다.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제11권1호
• /
• pp.26-43
• /
• 1973

This study was carried out on the Sewbility of Urethane Foam usually used as coldproof lining. The Sewability was estimated with the Puckering Grade and Seam Efficiency according to the thicknes of urethane foam, fineness and material of sewing thread, and the sort of covering fabric. The result shows the following ; 1. The thick foam proportinally shows the low Puckering Grade. 2. Effect on the sewability is small in fineness of sewing thread but large in material. Especially silk thread shows the greatest sewability in foam sewing. When the material of covering fabric is same as that of sewing thread (for example ; p/c fabric and p/c thread) the sewability is excellent in special. 3. Taffeta in covering foam is not suitable to foam sewing, satin and twill show superior sewability without reagrd to the thickness of foam. 4. In case of sewing foam covered with tricot, optimum thickness of foam and fineness of sewing thread through pretest must determine. 5. The thicker foam is the better seam efficiency tends, and Seam Efficiency largely effects to the strength of the sewing thread itself. 6. The seam Efficiency can heighten with the strength of sewing thread in proportion to that of covering fabric.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
• /
• 제4권3호
• /
• pp.45-49
• /
• 2006

Silk Industry doesn't have enough strategic ability to plan the product for internal and external strong competition and global luxury trend in Jinju. To provide silk fashion planning information and planning method, this study investigated the fabric planning system, such as product system and problems, the method of seeking information, via questionnaires for 68 Jinju silk companies. The results were that the Korean traditional garment, Han-bok and lining of that were given more wight in Jinju Silk for domestic, and the next, neckties. These silk had produced by OEM and didn't have almost my planning ability, but nowadays buyers wanted to get some planning ideas from manufactures, not giving any planning guideline before production, more and more. For Jinju Silk Fabric Companies, planning direction of silk fabrics of vision were needed, that had to be adaptable to manufacture situation and applicable to market.

• 복식
• /
• 제29권
• /
• pp.117-126
• /
• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.