• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.96-104
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the antimicrobial activity, antimutagenic and anticancer effects and dyeing properties of the fermented indigo extract. The physiological effects of natural color extracts from colorant plants(gardenia, beet and indigo) were studied. The methanol extract of indigo showed an inhibitory effect on the growth of E. coli and Staph. aureus, and also showed a strong antimicrobial effect on Trich. mentagrophytes compared to others. The methanol extract of indigo showed antimutagenic activities against aflatoxin B1(AFB1) in the Ames test using Salmonella typhimurium TA 100. The proliferation of Clone M-3 mouse melanoma cells and A431 human epidermoid carcinoma cells was inhibited by the methanol extract of indigo. So we decided to use natural indigo for dyeing the fabrics because of those effects. Dried indigo leaves were fermented at variouss temperature and the fermented indigo was reduced by using alkaline(NaOH, Ca(OH)2) and glucose to dye the fabrics. The values of K/S fermented indigo showed the highest value when it was fermented at 3$0^{\circ}C$. The indigo fermented at 3$0^{\circ}C$ had the greatest number of total bacterial counts and we identified one of the main microorganisms as Aspergillus niger. This microorganism was responsible for the indigo fermentation and accelerated indigo fermentation. So it can be supposed to reduce the fermentation period of indigo by inoculating Aspergillus niger into the indigo leaves at 3$0^{\circ}C$.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제42권1호
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• pp.36-41
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• 2000

The indigo dyeing on silk was carried out by the use of fresh leaves juice of polygonum tinctorium. By means of spectroscopic analysis, it is proved that indoxyl are present in the juicese due to the enzymatic reducing of indican contained in the leaves. In case of fresh leaf dyeing, K/S value of dyed fabric was higher at 25$\^{C}$ than at 35$\^{C}$ of the dyeing temperature, its colour fastness aganist washing, perspiration and ligt ranged from 4 to 5 grade.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권8호
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• pp.1286-1298
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• 2008

This study was attempted to examine the indigo dyeing technique in the latter Joseon Dynasty, and to find diachronic specifics in the indigo dyeing method from 17C to 19C. The results are as follows: First, There were 2 kinds of indigo species-Yoram(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) and Sungram(Isatis tinctoria L.)-in the latter Joseon Dynasty. Dangram was preferred in particular among Yoram species because of its high dyeing efficiency. Sungram was mainly used for making Jeon(indigo sediment). Second, Yoram cultivation took the following order: Sowing in April${\rightarrow}$planting out in June${\rightarrow}$harvesting leaves in August${\rightarrow}$collecting seeds in September. Sungram had more harvesting times and wider harvesting period than Yoram. Third, all indigo dyeing methods were grouped into two categories, one was temporary dyeing method, the other was permanent dyeing method. Mixture dyeing of the boiled and the raw, raw leaves dyeing, and fermentation dyeing belonged to the temporary dyeing. Jeon dyeing and Gaeogi dyeing belonged to the permanent dyeing. Finally, diachronic specifics from 17C to 19C were as follows: Decline in the mixture dyeing of the boiled and the raw, development in the raw leaves dyeing, continuance of the fermentation dyeing, and naturalization of Jeon dyeing technique.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권2호
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• pp.201-215
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• 2014

This study explores the kinds and types of dyes used in the Joseon Dynasty. Some literature including "Sanga Yorok", "Gyuhap Chongseo", "Imwon Gyeonjeji" were reviewed for this purpose. The findings are as follows. The colors obtained from the dyes were divided into seven color series, such as red, yellow and orange, green, blue, purple, brown, gray and black. These are practical color categories differed from abstract five cardinal colors [五方色]. The diachronic dyes used during the Joseon Dynasty were safflower and Japanese alder bark for red, indigo leaves for blue, gromwell for purple, chestnut tree bark for brown. The representative dyes used in the late Joseon Dynasty were safflower and sappan wood for red, wild pear tree bark and Pentapetes phoenicea for yellow and orange, indigo leaves for blue, sappan wood and gromwell for purple, mulberry tree for brown, and Chinese ink for gray. Common dyes used both in Joseon and China were safflower and sappan wood for red, pagoda tree blossom for yellow, a combination of pagoda tree blossom (or Amur cork tree) and indigo leaves (or sediment) for green, indigo leavers or sediment for blue, sappan wood and hollyhock for purple, and a combination of indigo leaves and Galla Rhois for gray and black.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.18-24
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop the dyeing method with dry leaves of indigo plant. Coloring matter was extracted from dry leaves of indigo plant with hot sodium hydroxide solution. The extract was reduced with sodium dithionite, and it was used for dyeing cotton fabrics under various conditions. UV-visible absorption spectra of extract, reduction rate of extracts by reducing agent, and the surface color of dyed cotton, lightfastness were examined. For the initial 20 minutes, the absorbance of indigo solution rapidly decreased. However, several hours later, the decreasing rate retarded. By repeating the dyeing process, the shade looked deeper and deeper. At $30-40^{\circ}C$, the value of K/S reached the highest point. The concentration of indigo solution in dye bath seemed to playa critical role for the reaction of the reducing agent. It was observed that the surface color of cotton fabrics was getting bluish and its degree of value and chroma seemed slightly decreased as the K/S value was increasing. The lightfastness was clearly enhanced by increasing the K/S value.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제48권3호
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• pp.57-65
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• 2016

Indigo (Polygonum tinctorium L.) is a typical blue dye which had been used from ancient times. This study was going to shade the complicated traditional methods extracting indigo dye by the fermentation and producing as adsorbate on calcium hydroxide, which says so called as the 'Indigo lime'. Accordingly we were going to make indigo through the hydrolysis of the hot water extractives of indigo leaves simply. During hot-water extraction, ${\beta}$-glucosidase which required hydrolysis of the linkage between indigo and glucose was not activated. To achieve this goal, indican was acid-hydrolyzed to glucose and indigo. The acetic acid, citric acid, hydrochloric acid, and sulfuric acid were used for the hydrolysis of hot water extractives. The hydrolysis conditions of extractives performed in water bath at $80^{\circ}C$ for 120 minutes and in an autoclave for 120 minutes. In the acid hydrolysis of extracted indican by hot water, the indican yields of acetic acid and hydrochloric acid hydrolysis were higher than sulfuric acid in water bath. Also, the indican yield of hydrochloric acid hydrolysis was better than sulfuric acid in autoclave. The hot water extracted indican was confirmed by HPLC analysis and its structure was confirmed by UV-Vis and FT-IR spectroscopy, compared with isolated indigo and commercial synthesized indigo. This improved extraction and hydrolysis methods can be replace the traditional indigo making method.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.19-27
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• 2004

The dyeing on cellulose fibers such as cotton and viscose viscose rayon was carried out by the use of solution extracted from natural fresh leaves of indigo plant under several dyeing conditions. The dyeing affinity of viscose rayon was higher than that of cotton. The total K/S value of dyed fabrics was considerably increased with repeated dyeings, while a dyeing time has a little influence on it. Both fibers were hardly dyed by indigo at $60^{\circ)$ and cotton was dyed better at $40^{\circ)$ than at $20^{\circ)$, but in viscose rayon, a little difference of total K/S was shown between $20^{\circ)$ and $40^{\circ)$. The color change of dyed fabric according to dyeing conditions was evaluated by the CIELAB color system. viscose rayon had a lower $b^*$ so that it looked bluer than cotton and when the celluose fibers were dyed by indigo plant at the lower temperature, the bluer it looked. By repeated dyeings the $b^*$value of dyed fabrics was much increased but the $a^*$ value was little influenced and in case of viscose rayon the change was considerable.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권12호
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• pp.1933-1946
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• 2010

This paper is a comparative analysis of the $19^{th}$ century practice of indigo dyes and dyeing in Korea and England. From over hundreds species of indigo plants in the world, it was dyer's knotweed and woad that were cultivated in Korea; however, the only indigo plant grown in England was woad. Indigo dye was produced in the form of damp indigo sediment (jeon) in Korea; however, imported indigo (as a main dye) and couched woad (as an additional dye) were indigo dyes used in England. There existed three kinds of indigo vats, the ice vat, ash-water vat, and indigo sediment (jeon) vat, in Korea. The fresh leaves of indigo were used for both the ice vat and ash-water vat. The ice vat was very convenient for preparation, but had a weakness in the inability to produce a very deep shade of blue. The ash-water vat and indigo sediment (jeon) vat were in use for producing a very deep shade of blue. The indigo sediment Goon) vat was employed presumably only by professional dyers. The indigo vat practiced in England was categorized into two types; one was woad-indigo vat, and the other was an indigo powder vat prepared by using imported indigo rock. There was a tendency to adopt different kinds of indigo vats according to the material to be dyed. The woad-indigo vat was employed for the dyeing of wool. A few of chemical vats with imported indigo were adopted, especially for the dyeing of cotton. Indigo dyers in 19th century Korea were differentiated from the rest of the dyers. They managed the growing of indigo plants as well as the production of indigo sediment (jeon). Woad dyers in 19th century England handled woolen cloth as well as worsted and woolen yarn in general. However, they sometimes dyed silk skein as well. They produced several colors such as black, blue, slates, grays, by using both woad and imported indigo.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권7호
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• pp.736-747
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• 2011

This study investigates the current status and dyeing properties of various natural indigo powder dyes in the domestic market. Products from India, China, Europe are sold in the market and only a few manufacturers provide recommendation for the method of dyeing and information on the additives. Through the market research and the preliminary investigation on 21 products, 11 were selected for the dyeing experiment which include 3 Indian, 3 Chinese, 2 German, and 1 Pakistani origin indigo reduced powders, and 2 Indian origin dried indigo leaf powder. The two dyeing methods used were the precipitation method and the fresh juice method, both at $10^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, and $60^{\circ}C$. Color difference, K/S value, and colorfastness of dyed cotton fabrics were examined. Indian reduced indigo powder showed the highest K/S value, deep dyeing, and the best color fastness. Chinese reduced indigo powder resulted in a more greenish and bluish color. Powders of dried indigo leaves were easy to use but resulted in a pale color due to low dye uptake.

• 한국약용작물학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.213-219
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• 2013

This study was carried out to find out the optimum method of preparation of indigo standard solution and its stability, and to investigate the indigo contents in Niram, blue dye extract, from a total of 7 indigo plants and 34 breeding lines of Persicaria tinctoria H. Gross. Proper solvent for indigo standard was dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), and appropriate concentration was 1 mg of indigo in 10 mL of DMSO. Absorbance value of UV/Vis Spectrophotometer at 620 nm of standard solution was changed decreasingly 12 hours after the preparation of standard solution irrespective of the storage conditions such as temperature and light. Average value of absorbance of 8-fold diluted standard solutions prepared daily during 16 days was $0.210{\pm}0.005$, indicating the powder of indigo compound was stable chemically. Calibration curve was made for quantitative analysis of indigo of 7 Niram samples, and indigo contents ranged from 0.69% to 18.76% showing relatively larger variation. Across all 34 breeding lines, the range of indigo content was from 7.9 mg to 56.4 mg per 100 g of fresh leaves, averaging 25.2 mg of indigo content and showing a 47.7% coefficient of variation.