• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.457-466
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research the similarity and difference of color application in culture of Korea and China. The subject of this research is the costume color of Changgeuk and Beijing opera. First, a bibliographical inquiry includes the attributes of cultural color in Korea and China and the costume attributes of Changgeuk and Beijing opera. Second, this survey analyzes Munsell's 3 attributes(Hue, Value, Chroma), tone by extracted color data. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The cultural color factors of Korea and China are classified geographical factor, internal cultural factor and external cultural factor. 2. Changgeuk costume much more used high value and medium & low chroma for korean temperate climate. But Beijing opera costume prefers high-medium value and low chroma color, various ranges of color because of China huge land and various climates, as geographical factor. 3. Changgeuk costume much more used YR color(no-dyeing color) because of korean white robe preference. Beijing opera costume much more used R color than Changgeuk costume because of traditional preference of R color, as infernal cultural factor. 4. Changgeuk costume and Beijing opera costume show the practical use of ascetic cole. like as jade green. Ojungsaek much less used than Obangsaek by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine, as external cultural factor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.21-36
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• 2002

The Miaos have their own unique and luxurious culture traditional and modern formed as they have experienced repeated fusion into and resistance against the Han Race or the Chinese in their long and old history. Taijiang County of Guizhou Provice, in which whey have been living, is endowed with natural beauty. Thus their culture enjoys abundant and diverse contents of artificial and natural character. Naturally, their costume reflects cultural and natural features in abundance and variety. This dissertation aims to investigate the artistic character of Miaos' traditional costume as reflected in patterns for their embroidery. As for the artistic character of the patterns for embroidery, the following were found. To begin with, the space in the Miaos' embroidery is, unlike the measurable three-dimensional space found in Greek art, unmeasurable and fantastic with its beauty, majesty and peculiarity. It is as if immersed in limitless space, they were in communion with gods and universe. Another characteristic is the use of image construction beyond mere imitation. Their mode of image construction was realistic in that patterns as a whole reveal an abstract form or meaning but separately they portray visual representations of concrete thins in nature. Still another is that sense of motion conveyed by the basic curve line is full of life. It was the result of using light rhythm breaking stereotypic balance and symmetry. Finally, the colouring was abstract, and a strong contrast between black and white was gorgeous and fantastic.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.14-30
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to establish how main characters' mental states are expressed through costumes and makeup by understanding and analyzing the relationship between the costumes and the makeup in the movie "Anna Karenina" and to compare the 19th century Russian costumes. The study methods are a literature review and an empirical case study. The results are as follows. First, the costumes in "Anna Karenina" are a mixture of late crinoline and early bustle style in general. However, the costumes were altered after the actress's movements and acting were considered. Regarding colors, Anna wears a lavender robe as the virtuous wife, a wine-colored robe for love and death, and a white robe for innocence, thus reflecting her mental states; through the colors, her changes of mental state are expressed. Second, the costumes of Alexei Vronsky, are similar in style and colors to those of mid-late 19th century Russian military uniforms. White, blue and black costume colors are used to describe his situations and emotional changes. Third, Alexei Karenin wears 19th century costumes of dark and achromatic colors without decorations, representing his conservative, authoritative character. However, he showshis rage with a wine and red-colored costume at the end of the movie. Fourth, regarding the makeup in the movie, Anna wears makeup of a soft pink-gold color influenced by 19th century naturalism. Male characters express their characteristics with their beards and hair styles. Vronsky's Hollywood mustaches and wavy blonde hair show his charm, and Karenin's chin curtain beard and bald head reveal his conservative character. The costumes of the three main characters in the movie are not very different from 19th century style in general, but mental states and situations are expressed through accessories, and colors maximize all of the effects. Through this research, it is illustrated that the costumes and makeup in a movie can not only express characters' emotional changes but also show the relationships between the characters in different scenes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.131-141
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the shapes and transformation of costumes of Ching's and Mongolian. Mongolian traditional costumes are trousers and jacket, with Deel(袍) and Terlig(帖裡) pleated in the waistline, and knee-covering narrow-sleeved long dress for men and women alike. It was designed for adapting to horse riding activities and cold steppe climate. Similarity between Ching's and Mongolian nomadic costumes was used as a means of unity by Ching. Transformation of Mongolian nomadic costumes are further divided into three kinds; Ching's or Russian's details applied to Mongolian nomadic costumes(Taekeum(大襟), Majesu(馬蹄袖), white choker), Ching's court costume imported as it is for the political purpose(Kijang(기장)), resistance against foreign countries and the spirit of nomadic people and independence reflected in Mongol costumes('Teregur ushi', 'Correct bosom'). Specially, Nomadic symbols constitute Mongolian spiritual world and clothing habits, especially evident in ladies' dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.82-93
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• 2009

This study is considered about the Taekwondo(跆拳道) uniform classified by period and analyzed the current Taekwondo uniform. And founded on this contents, new designs of uniform, that a functional side are considered and can symb이ize the identity of Taekwondo, are presented through this study. Ancient times to the present time, the Taekwondo uniform classified into three types according to 'Period of putting on our nation's costume'(three kingdoms${\sim}$Joseon(朝鮮) times), 'Period of confusion on uniform'(Japan's colonial rule of Korea${\sim}$-the early 1970s), 'Period of the settlement on official uniform'(the late 1970s-the present time). And besides, the shape of our nation's costume in ancient times is succeeded until Joseon times and this basic style becomes the outset on the current Taekwondo uniform. The designed uniforms are connoted the notion of the aesthetic appreciation in Korean traditional costume, that is, a symbolic, dignified, moderate appreciation with the consideration of a functional side for Taekwondo. And the contents on the presented designs are classified into 'shape, pattern, color'. First, these designs that are adapted the shape of Baji(바지) Jeogori(저고리)-belt, which have symbolized our nation's costume, and the shape of Bacja(배자) had used in Joseon times, are connoted a 'traditional appreciation with functional side'. Second, these designs, which are adapted the patterns of the active image(a bugbear, flying horse, tiger for embroidered patches, Taegeuk(太極)) in a modern style, express a 'symbolic, dignified appreciation'. Third, these designs are well-matched a black and white color with multicolored stripes(saekddong, 색동), and its ones are connoted a 'moderate and symbolic appreciation'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.145-165
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• 1990

This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.29-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine a unique characteristic of the colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture in the aim of seeking the characteristics and the conceptual meanings of colors found in the majority’s culture. The scope of the basic culture was divided into folk belief, folk game and folk play. Within these limits, the colors of the dress, accessories, instruments were extracted by comparing with the naked eye in NCS Color System. For the analysis of hue and tone, the secondary dimensional analysis using NCS color system and the three-dimensional analysis using the software, COLOR 3D Version 2.0, were done. The result of this investigation is that the colors of the costume in the Korean basic culture are white, gray and black of achromatic color and yellow, yellowish red and purplish blue. This confirms that the colors based on Five-elements color are becoming the basis too basic culture. And Arche-pattern, which is a characteristic commonly found in the Korean traditional society, was shown as a characteristic of color. The colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture are uniquely adopted by the Korean civilians according to their religious and philosophical living standard. This study is meaningful in seeking a root for the formation of their unique color culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.69-82
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• 1999

This study is focused on the aesthetic application of traditional Korean dress(Items) to the contemporary fashion design. The results are as follows: (1) Each traditional dresses have revealed their aesthetic characteristics according to the periods or time. (2) The dresses of certain period figures and items had been limited in use in fashion design today. (3) The most favoured dresses adapted in fashion design were Chosun costume and female top items were the most preferred in use. (4) The colors applied to the fashion design were also limited. The bright and strong color groups were the most popular colors among fashion designers for their works. White which stands for the image of korean and their dresses were also preferred in use. Therfore experts in various arena of fashion business have to keep in mind following problems:(1) They have to study traditional dresses to enhance their historic knowledges and appreciate their aesthetic beauties (2) Various kinds of dresses from many periods items should be tried to adapt in fashion design by the designers. (3) Various male attires also should be adapted in fashion design. (4) various methodologies are recommended to apply in fashion design (5) fashion moods should be examined to make the krean fashion design rich The plastic characteristics of Korean traditional dresses could be interpreted as a tunnel to show the esprit of Korean and the aesthetic of Korean dresses through the works of fashion design for the international fashion markets or societies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.116-128
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate Seon expressed in the costume of Chinese Song. For the purpose, this researcher classified types of Seon, found in the Chinese costume, in terms of composition method, decorative technique and used materials. In addition, the researcher attempted to analyze formative characteristics of Sean in accordance with the range and post of use, pattern and color combination. Seon expressed in the costume of Chinese Song can be classified into standard, decoration, application and Buseon in type. When the typical distribution of Seon expressed in the costume of Chinese Song, standard type was highest in percentage, especially different color type. Looking at the range of use, Seon was mainly used for outfits, especially Jikcheol(直?) and Hakchangeui for men and Baeja(背子) for women. Looking at the post of use, Seon was mainly used to edges of costume and sometimes also to seams. In regard to materials of Seon, they were selectively used depending on the existence or non-existence, size and brilliance or non-brilliance of pattern employed in the texture of Seon. The most commonly used pattern of Seon was single-type pattern, especially the pattern of plant. Pattern arrangement was most often filling in type. Concerning the color combination of Seon, men's dress most often used black-white combination, followed by different color combination while, women's dress most often employed complementary color combination, followed by different color combination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.1-11
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate how formativeness of shamanism has expressed and developed in modern fashion. Formative expression of shamanism in modern fashion has expressed in the way of on style, color, material and pattern as follows; Style has made animal and human incorporated by expressing abstract animal on the part or whole of costume and it has reconstructed traditional shaman costume into modern costume. Skin colors of living bodies which exist in nature, such as black, blown, yellow and grey, were used to symbolize spirit and low brightness of colors such as blue, white and black were also used to symbolize hyperspace. Artificial materials which imitate animal figure and genuine materials from animal were used. Various natural materials used in traditional shaman costume were also used. Animal patterns and abstract patterns symbolizing the celestial heaven and lower world, and patterns shown on wall painting and rock painting has appeared. The meaning of shamanism in modern fashion can be identified as interchangeable movement of time and space, a cosmic outlook on the world and ration. Spiritually designed costume has made fashion move to hyperspace in spirit trip. Modern fashion with shamanism has expressed its cosmic outlook on the world or universal wish beyond human's real world by patterns such as bird figure which means the celestial heaven and lower world. Corporation and transition of human and animal were symbolized as shaman hypernatural intercourse with designs expressed in costume using a part of animal or animal's characteristics.