• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.44-59
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• 2020

This investigated the romanticism of Alessandro Michele who leads new trends in fashion industry as a creative director for Gucci. In this study, 307 women's wears exhibited by Alessandro Michele for 3 years in Milan collections from 2015 F/W to 2017 F/W are categorized according to the aesthetic characteristics of romanticism. Additionally, the five aesthetic features of Gucci's fashion design are an addition since the appearance of abnormally large size under the influence of postmodernism. The results based on the study purpose are as follows. First, the decoration makes the garments stand out by using fancy materials, splendid multicolor combination, applique embroidery and three-dimensional objects. Second, exotic style is expressed from an occidental perspective using Chinese traditional fashion or textiles, and exotic accessories. Thirdly, sensuality is manifested using see-through materials to emphasize women's breasts, or the beautiful and sexual expression of women's body. Fourth, the new creations are designed by combining contrasting elements, such as disparate materials and, different genders. Furthermore, traditional cultures like baroque and rococo, and the 1970's vintage looks inspires the creation of retro-style. Finally, the appearance of extremely large shoulders, silhouettes, and details of the human body can be explained with expansive tendency. The aforementioned results further suggest that diverse characteristics are expressed via reflection of contemporary art and trends.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.81-96
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• 2014

The meanings of colors vary with time and space. For the most important events in a person's life, such as wedding or funeral, people use color to symbolize their identities or roles. Traditionally, the colors of dress had indicated the wearer's age, class, or marital status in Korea. However, Korea's exposure to western cultures has affected in many dimensions of its modern history. Especially, influenced by social change, the traditional dress has undergone many modifications in forms, silhouettes, materials, and color. However, women's mourning dress has been maintained as a long lasting tradition and the use of white in mourning dress has been regarded as a norm until recently, while men have worn a regular black suit with a black tie. But, the shift from white to black in mourning dress has been observed in recent mourning practices. To examine this change of color in Korean traditional mourning dress, a historical approach utilizing multiple resources, such as interview, observations of events, documents, and archival records was applied.

• 복식
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• 제57권9호
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• pp.49-66
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• 2007

Trench coat derived from military uniforms was one of the classical fashion items and has been endeared as everyday outfits thanks to useful traits. Since 1990s classical design of trench coat began to be modified and many variant styles were appeared after 2000s. Trench coat designs after 2000s were appeared as tradition type that was stick to basic British classic style, variation type that was changed in details, colors, materials, and silhouettes, evolution type that was changed into new items, deconstruction type that was dissolved and open-structured. Modern trench coat expressed modern chic, elegance feminine, stylish casual, military and gangster images. The characteristics of trench coat as classic fashion were utility for everyday life style, excellent ability to express images, and strong visual effects of characteristic details. Trench coat was timeless as classic fashion, at the same time, changed into new fashion styles suitable for the sense of the times.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.69-86
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• 2011

The objective of this research is to unveil the dynamic changes of the trends in wedding dresses during the 20th Century. The studies were carried out in two forms; firstly by observing the actual wedding dresses worn by people at that time, and secondly by conducting formative comparisons between those dresses with the ones appeared in movies corresponding to that period. Movies provide an invaluable insight into the era's wedding dresses fashion trends since they function as intimate bridges in connection with the time's audience, and the visible imageries accurately reflect the characteristics embedded within that time frame. As there are no precedent studies regarding this topic, this thesis can serve as vital research data for the wedding dress industry. Research data regarding the actual wedding dresses were collected from books and museum web sites. The object of movies were films produced before World War II that contained both the background settings of the 20th Century and wedding dresses, of which photographic imageries were captured. Research analysis was then conducted by merging these data with findings from relevant books and internet materials. The results of the thesis are as the following: The 1900s was an extension of the 19th Century's popular fashion trend which can be characterized as the S curve silhouettes of the Edwardian period when long trains and long veils symbolized wealth and social power. In the 1910s, high waist silhouettes with soft wrinkles were prevalent as attire suitable for active mobility with practical functionality were highly regarded. During the 1920s, the flapper style became the dominant trend. Hem lines of the skirts were curled in the form of the scallop and laces were the most widely used raw materials. By the 1930s, wedding dresses that reinterpreted the glamorous sheath lines, practical two piece styles, and retro-styles became predominant. The 1940s saw the advent of ready-made wedding dresses made of synthesized materials; practical military style suits and casuals sometimes substituted the wedding dresses. And although the wedding dresses in the movies were primarily costumes to express the personalities of the characters, they were also reinterpreted as manifestations of the formative characteristics of each relative period that pursued very distinct and diverse features.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.53-61
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• 2011

This study examines the prati fashion style. prati fashion refers to a practical fashion, the most sought-after trend and newest fashion concept. This trend emerged as a response to the trio of minimalism, the recent economic downturn and the modern life style, and has led to powerful fashion lines and items. Therefore, this study is to understand and analyze the prati fashion style, with its focus on the 2010 modern fashion collection that embodied functional, economic, and minimal styles. First, the functional style realized by new materials provides comfort and allows multi-style changes. Second, the minimal style adds detailed changes to minimal silhouettes. Finally the economic style means easy to wear and easy to match items at affordable prices. The analyses stated above found that the prati fashion brought about a new paradigm to society, and influenced social, cultural and economic aspects of our daily life. It also helped find solutions to economic problems of this era. Drawing global attention, the prati fashion has functional, design and economic values, and thereby influences the shift of market paradigm.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2015

Magic realism, which originated in the culture of Central and South America, creates a fantastic fictional word by linking unrelated incidents using magical. The purpose of this study was to analyze Tarsem Singh's design characteristics that are based on magic realism in his movies, "The Cell" and "The Fall", and to highlight the artistic values appearing in the films. The research was conducted by observing the characteristics and concept of magic realism based on literature and preceding research, and discovering how Singh expressed these creatively and experimentally within the costumes in his films. The results of the study were as follows: Firstly, magical, legendary and symbolic characteristics appear within the fantasy of magical realism, and common techniques within film costuming include repetition of similar objects, solid silhouettes within scenes, and various decorative materials used for fantastic expression. Secondly, regarding ideality, the destruction of previous ideas and recreation of the present were found with materials and details used in film costuming to destroy previous ideas. Expressions of character through external decoration and depiction of living things as not living were also found. Thirdly, reiteration showed the coexistence of history and legend, reality and fantastic elements, and arrangement of opposing elements.

• 복식
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• 제58권4호
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• pp.99-112
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• 2008

The aim of the study was to look into the construction methods of historical corsetry and compare them with the construction methods of corsetry today. Through a comparative study, it was concluded that the design, material, sewing and functions of corsetry of a certain period are sum of the clothing techniques and fashion of the time. Corset was first appeared at the end of the 16th century. It has been through many changes in terms of items, materials, patterns, sewing methods in order to make right silhouettes of the time. Now corsetry has been developed into various items such as waist nipper, all-in-one, nipper bra, and girdle. All these items have a common purpose, that is to improve the body shape. The corsetry of the past was made of non stretchable materials, so they used to restrict body movements, and required individual fitting several times. Due to the development of thin durable stretchable fabrics, functional bones, and advanced sewing machines, construction methods of seam, hem and opening are simplified compare to their predecessors. Consequently corsetry became less weighted, easy to wear, easy to wash and easy to mass produce. Yet they have consistency in sewing techniques such as using bones or wires to support bodice shape, using durable twill fabrics over plain for attractive body shapes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.511-522
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• 2001

Various art trends of the 20th century that contributed to the creation and development of abstract art had showed the transition from the convention of mere representation of the object to the formative sensitivity emphasizing self-expression. Noticing that such trends had influenced the fashion industry to move toward a free and individualized style, this study attempts to express the formative way from the existing art to wear, especially, based on early 20th century paintings, 5 casual wears were made which applied korean materials and silhouettes that are functional, sample and show traditional korea beauty. The purpose of this study is to search for a solution to expand the world market by producing dresses utilizing our own tradition that can be distinguished in the global market and that derive inspiration from the formative of the sensitivity of the paintings during the first half of the 20th century. It also aims to let national economy as a high-added industry. The result of this study are as follows: First, the expression method and element of various styles of art such as Fauvism, Expressionism and Cubism, during the period of transition to abstract art, clearly presented the direction toward the artistic liberation and made possible a new formative artistic expression of dress in the early years of the 20th century. Their ideas inspired the dress designers of the time with a reformative and creative sense of fashion and have greatly contributed to the development of a new era of uniqueness and individuality. Second, the color and the simplicity of form of the early 20th century paintings are suitable fro utilizing a motive of functional dresses and express unique and concise modern beauty. Third, it was confirmed that utilizing our tradition in contemporary dress can be a significant method of creation in which the uniqueness and creativity of Korean dress can be expressed, distinguishing it on the global scene, as well as inspire the originality and pride of our culture. Fourth, a possibility has been discovered. It is the functionality and uniqueness of aesthetic expression technique of the contemporary arts that can contribute to the fashion of tomorrow, by searching a modern fashion which was affected by the past and also by taking a look at the trend of modern fashion as the same field as casula wear.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.77-109
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• 2023

This study attempted to understand current status of overseas virtual fashion brands and analyze attributes of common digital fashion brands. Based on brand analysis criteria of previous studies, digital fashion brands were analyzed for brand concept, price range, characteristic elements, and attributes. Digital fashion design elements of items, colors, materials, patterns, and effects were analyzed by collecting images of brands' digital fashion design products. Digital fashion brands could be divided into experimental and creative digital fashion brands and digital fashion brands aiming for popular brands. This study introduces a creative fashion collection that experiments sustainability and future value. It shares a new way of self-expression and a playful culture centered on the younger generation. In terms of fashion design elements, fashion items were similar to the existing fashion category, but included other accessories that reflected the lifestyle of Generation Z. Silhouette expressed a minimalistic futuristic image centered on straight silhouettes. Color showed a bold and modern color image through black and color contrast. Unique patterns reflecting the concept of the brand appeared, centering on abstract and geometric patterns. Regarding materials and effects, new elements differentiated from existing fashion design area, showing meaningful characteristics. Digital materials are developed and proposed for sustainability. Materials (such as metal, glass, plastic) and effects (such as weightlessness, flames) expand impossible senses in reality and enable new fashion experiences. This is a case study of digital fashion brands. It is meaningful in that it identifies characteristics and discusses their values and meanings.

• 복식
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• 제48권
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• pp.5-24
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• 1999

The globalization of Korean beauty comes partly from the succession of korean traditional culture and its modernization will be the one of very important issues in 21st century. This paper was done in order to analyze the process of Korean design development in modern Korean fashion in terms of the succession and modernization of Koreantraditional Beauty and based on this analysis also suggest new possibilities for successful globalization of Korean traditional beauty andbased on this analysis also suggest new possibilities for successful globalization of Korean fashion in 21st century. 227 fashion designs which represent typical elements of korean traditional costume were selected from fashion magazines books SFAA collection books and company brochures published from 1986, to 1997. Content analysis was used with 8 variables including 7 design elements(line shape, color, textile, motif, detail, accessories) and year. Results of analysis showed that the process of Korean Design development in modern Korean fashion has in the use of straight lines and simple silhouettes. Diversity could be found in the application of various kinds of outwear items as well as in the variety of materials and details. Symbolic tradtional motifs and accessories were used to enliven the Korean folklore image, These trends became more salient with the turning point of 1993 when a few designers began to participate in Paris Collection. For successful globalization designers should have more active attitudes toward exploiting the essence of Korean beauty and developing them as modern and global styles.