• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.541-550
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• 2003

This study is to research the costume of Korean envoys of the Chosun dynasty. The research results follow. The costume of three envoys including senior envoys and vice envoys is by, its different kinds, Gwandae, Jobok, Gongbok, and Pyongbok. According to the different purposes of occasions, these dresses were classified as the dress for ceremonies, the dress for banquets, and the dress for travel. For the ceremonial purpose, Gongbok and Jobok were mostly used. Gongbok was chosen when the envoys entered into the major cities or when they had ceremonies with the lord of the manor. The envoys wore Jobok for important ceremonies such as when receiving or presenting credentials or when entering into Chusima. For travel costume, Pyonbok of nobleman was used. The envoys wore Pyonbok during journey but they changed into Gongbok when they entered into the major cities such as Osaka or Kyoto in order to show their diplomatic etiquettes as representatives of the Chosun dynasty. And for the banquets, they wore Gongbok for official banquet and Pyongbok for private banquet. These findings of the different dress for different occasion indicate that there was a strict dress code according to the occasions and purposes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.75-94
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• 2019

The Joseon Tongsinsa Festival has been held annually in May in Busan. It reenacts the procession of the Joseon Tongsinsa that the Joseon Government delegated to Japan four times in the 18th century. In the most important situation during the meandering period, three envoys (Jeongsa, Busa, Jongsagwan) who led the Joseon Tongsinsa, wore Jobok, but at the Joseon Tongsinsa Festival, the three envoys are wearing Jobok, which are not historically accurate. The Jobok called Geumgwan Jobok and were comprised of Yanggwan, Eui, Sang, Jungdan, Peasul, Su, Pumdae, Daedae, Paeok, Hall, Mal, and Hwa. These were ranked from first class to ninth class by personal ornamentation such as Yanggwan, Su, Pumdae, Paeok. So, this study is focused on ascertaining the Jobok of the 18th century for the three envoys who were ranked third grade. This study is based on literature, artifacts, and portraits that can depict the 18th century Jobok including all components. It was based on The 7th Korean Human Body Survey Final Report (2015) in order to produce all components of the Jobok of the modern males in their 50s who are playing the role of the three envoys in the Joseon Tongsinsa Festival.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.3
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• pp.155-170
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• 2001

This study is about investigation of the historical value of Wanghoido(王會圖) and Bungekipjodo(蕃客入朝圖) and examination of the costumes of the Envoys from the Three Kingdoms drawn in the paintings above. Wanghoido(王會圖) is presumed to be painted around early 7th century. This is a colored picture on silk on which twenty-six Envoys from twenty-four Kingdoms are painted. Bungekipjodo(蕃客入朝圖) is presumed to be painted in the early 10th century. This is drawn on paper with only black brush line, no color. There are thirty-five Envoys from thirty-one Kingdoms in the painting. Wanghoido(王會圖) and Bungekipjodo(蕃客入朝圖) are the important materials which are useful to understand the original Liangjlkgongdo(梁職貢圖). From the records about interchange of the Envoys in the early 6th century, the characters and costumes painted in Wanghoido(王會圖) and Bungekipjodo(蕃客入朝圖), the copy of the original Liangjikgongdo(梁職貢圖), get the reality. The Envoys from Koguryo(高句麗), Paekche(百濟), and Shilla(新羅) painted in the two paintings above are all wearing Jangyu or Yu(장유 or 유; an upper garment), Go(袴:trousers), Kwanmo(冠帽:headdress), Dae(帶뿔:belt), and Hwa(靴:shoes). But they differ in some aspects. For example, the shape of the Kwanmo(冠帽), hair style and patterns on the costumes, etc.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.334-335
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• 2004

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.269-274
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the costumes and trading goods of the Korean envoys in 1811. The findings of the study are as follows: The Korean envoys, as shown in literature, were dressed up three different types of costumes: Pyongbok, Gongbok, Jobok. They put on different kinds of clothes depending on the purpose of the events such as for ceremonial purpose or for traveling purpose. For traveling purpose, the envoys wore Pyongbok like Waryonggwan and Hakchangeui, which were commonly used as Pyeonbok in those times of Chosun era. For ceremonial purpose, they chose to wear Danryeong, Gongbok, Geumgwanjobok in this order following the order of the importance of the ceremony. The design of Jobok and Gongbok of Jeongsa and Busa were different from that of the early Chosun era. This difference in the Jobok and Gongbok demonstrates that Gwanbok has been transformed with the change in the general Po system in the late Chosun era. When the costumes of Korean envoys in 1811 were compared to those in 1711, there were similarities in terms of the design of Jobok and Gongbok, which indicated that little had changed for the period of 100 years. The most popular exchanged Byeolpok of Chosun was articles of clothing such as Daeyuja, Daedanja, Baekjeopo, Sangjeopo, and Baekmyeonju, while that of Japan was mostly objects of craftwork and a small amount of Po. The fact that cloth was one of the main items from the early Chosun era to the early 19C shows the highly developed clothing culture of Chosun era.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.331-336
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• 2003

This study is to research the influence of Caesalpinia sappan which was imported through the exchanges between the Chosun dynasty and Japanese envoys during the early Chosun dynasty. Korea interchanged politically and culturally with Japan since ancient times. Particularly, the good-neighbor foreign policy toward Japan grew into trade relations. The diplomatic mission, under the name of Tongshinsa, was dispatched 12 times in total. Plenty of goods were exchanged through the visiting of Japanese envoys as well as through the activities of Korean envoys. In other words, the Korean-Japanese relations were at first focused on the political and diplomatic etiquette and gradually evolved into economic exchanges. Trading goods were various, including food, clothing, etc. Caesalpinia sappan, a red dye, was the most imported goods from Japan, but it was sold at a very high price, which caused luxurious trends in clothing. However, these sumptuous moods of the upper classes were decreased in the 16th century. Some of the reasons are : the difficulties of Japan's trade with the Caesalpinia sappan producing countries in South-east Asia, the transition of the high classes' preference from red clothing into Chinese BaecSa and SaraNeungDan, and the comparative decrease in the demand of Caesalpinia sappan by the changed understanding of Honghwa. Therefore, the early Chosun dynasty's clothing trends were due to the relationships between the Chosun dynasty and Japan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.103-119
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• 1996

From Yan Chikgong-do the first picture of the envoy to the pictures of the age of Unified Shilla the traces of Korean envoys were found and they habe been continually found in the pictures of China Japan and Central Asia. The traditional Korean basic clothing which the envoys were in yang Chikgong-do has changed with the age. Korean envoys wore their thraditional cloth-ing to show their dignity whenever they went abroad. They have adapted themselves to the change of history and diplomatic policies However they could express their indentities as Korean people in Hanba-do by enshrining national features that is wearing the tra-ditional Korean clothing. From this study is can be concluded that traditional style of Korean clothing has continued in spite of be-ing under the influence of the foreign style of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.115-129
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• 1999

The following demonstrates similarities between Japanese and Korean food culture. The facts have been discovered through the examination of records kept by Korean Communication Facilities and Japanese Envoys. Both countries used the numbers 7, 5, 3, in food treats. Both demonstrated Da do(茶道) style during banquet. Japanese Na-ra-dae(奈良臺) is similar to Korean Sue-bae-sang(壽杯床). Both countries had a Kan-ban(decorative table, 看盤) and Mi-soo(wine and someatables, 味數) during banquet. The composition of the table may be the same for both Korean Geo-sick-oh-kwa-sang and Japanese 3Jeup(soups) 15Che(dishes). Agasang is a Kan-ban(decorative table) of Choson's Da-do(茶道) style.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.93-93
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• 2002

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.45-61
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• 2003

Parhae and ancient Japan officially exchanged at 34 times during the period from AD.727 to AD.920. The envoys of each nation also sent the other nation with some items. The names of the items are identified by the historical records; those which Parhae presented to ancient Japan were leader shoes, which is called AmMoHwa(암모화), belt(대) various leaders and those which ancient Japan presented to Parhae were formal uniforms[관복], various textiles, coronet, shoes. We can recognize that the leader items of Parhae are frequently recorded as the gift to ancient Japan because they were the main manufactures in Parhae at that time. In addition, the government of ancient Japan gave the Parhae's envoys a high rank, five-grade(5위) and noble costumes like JinKaeEui(진개의) and so on were well-matched with their high rank. While being official exchanges, it is supposed that there were lots of other unofficial exchanges. Historically, in Japan, the time came under Nara(나양) era(AD.719~AD.794) and the beginning of PyungAn(평안) era(AD.794~AD.1192) and in the same way in Parhae, King Mun(737-793) reign. One of the features at that time is that Tang's culture was introduced to ancient Japan positively. Since Nara era strongly accepted Tang's culture, I assume that Nara costumes were affected by Tang's therefore they are the same as Tang's. In the same way, Parhae's costumes are the same as Tang's, too. The point is, it is expected that the costumes of Parhae which were exchanged with ancient Japan are similar to those of Nara by the medium of Tang's costumes.