• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This study aims at the improvement of sewing function through understandings of dynamic property about the sewing methods and the thread material selection in knitwear. The tensile strength and shear of KES-FB and the Instron were measured for the analysis of the mechanical properties. The knit cloth was structured In the plain stitch, $1\times1$ rib stitch and $2\times1$ rib stitch with the combination of wool and cotton. With regard to the sewing method, intralooping and interlacing were applied. For thread materials, polyester, cotton, wool and silk were used. Since silk has the lowest extension and similar values regardless of its construction in intralooping, it is available knit apparel with uniform elastic recoverv. It also has small shearing resistance. It can be used in apparel which needs big mobility, but it causes rutting problem. Therefore, it is suitable to use intralooping. When the same sewing yarn and textile are use, it can lower shearing resistance and extension in intralooping, Since wool needs a lot of extension energy and it can be cut, intralooping is more suitable than interlacing in sewing of wool. In interlacing using polyester, extension and shearing resistance are high. Therefore, it is suitable for knit sewing with high massing. Silk is not suitable for interlacing since it can be rut. Even though knit materials are different, the RT values of polyester and cotton are similar in same construction. Therefore, they can be substituted each other considering resilience after sewing.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.85-102
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the origins of knitwear the history of patterned knits. Aithough historians know little about the origins of knitting many believe it was practiced as early as the 4th century by nomads roaming North Africa. later Arab raders adopted the craft which helped then while away the hours as they traveled across deserts in camel carabans, Its origins lie in the need for close-fitting and elasticated covering for the body in particular the head hand and feet. it first developed in the Mediterranean countries and later in Central and particularly Northern Europe. Early evidence of multicolored knitting is said to date back to the Egyptian Copts of 600-800 A.D. medieval knitting is developed through the Church and monastery. The increasing demand for knitted products already observable in the fourteenth and fifteenth centries and the number of preserved knitted articles increases inexcavated materialos from Europe. The improvements in technique stimulated the developement of the hand knitting industry in the early sixteenth century. The best-known source of production is the guild organization and their mass production consisted of the carpets cushion coverings and other small items for furnishing interiors but mainly of clothing. The demand for knitted goods was such that in the late sixteenth century it was mechanised, The knitting frame invented in 1589 by William Lee English priest was the most perfect machine of this period. The mass production of fully-fashioned and seamless garments in the late nineteenth and twentieth century was dangerously competitve to traditionally woven and sewn cloth in. As fashions changed knitwear has had an almost continuous ruse in public favour and the popularity of sports has encourage the fashion for flexible easy-fitting and absorbent garments.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to find out more usages in today's fashion industry where various designs and changes of production required. And this research will also suggest new products and new directions to enhance the efficiency of product planning and production in knit industry using SDS-ONE program. Ethiopia in East Africa, knit already has been used as a school uniform. There is a big difference in temperature spread due to. Knit is a proper item to initiate the textile industries of underdeveloped countries. So this research can develop knit industry and lead the trend of introducing fashion in school uniforms. In this research, we use Paint of SDS-ONE to transform the patterned item into color jacquard, and show it on the designed clothes using simulation. It is shown that body painting pattern is suitable conditions for knit jacquard and simplified pattern can be applied as an excellent knit. And it is discovered the simulation feature of SDS-ONE program has a high efficiency and can be used effectively in African textile industry the future mass production base; SDS-ONE simulation can show various patterns and colors with constrained kinds of threads. Since the body painting designs can be applied in various fields, and from women's wear to men's wear, without limitation, we can take advantage of the broad.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.148-165
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to establish a theory about the necessary structure for knitwear design, and to propose it with the practical data through the actual development of a high value added knit structure. For this study, the market was conducted along with literature reviews on the existing studies and the relevant books about knit structures. The market research aimed at the products released in the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons of 2012-2013, focusing on brand for middle aged women. The utilization of the structure by item and the characteristics of knit design were studied. The research was conducted on S/S products in May and July, and F/W products in October and December. As a result of the market research, it was shown that the lightweight structures with permeability such as plain, lace, links and links, this is repeated and rib structure were frequently utilized during the S/S season, while double structures with good shape stability were greatly utilized during the F/W season. Also, during the F/W season, a cable structure and tubular jacquard that emphasized the volume or cubic effect were frequently used, and there were many jacquard structures where a change of color sense and motive were added. Concerning the knit structures development, the researcher designed the knit structure at the actual production site of the knit fashion. A total of 5 pieces of knit structures were developed by asking a professional for programming and knitting. To the developed structures, the study added a multi-gauged effect, herringbone transformation effect, 3-dimensional surface effect, color effects, geometric patterns, lace penetration effect, and soft surface effect in a water-drop shape. In addition, the structures had differences in the added values by mixing various structures and diversely expressing color sense on the knitting line. This study proposes the direction for 21st century knitwear product design, through the development of a high value added knit structure.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.113-125
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• 2012

This study, as one on the neck design of seamless knitwears, set out to make experimental clothes applying various knitting methods to the hem of round neck, seek the knitting methods of finishing touches on the ending part of round neck to enhance function and aesthetic appreciation through measuring tensile strength and assessing wearing sensation, and provide basic data that would be of practical help to developing the design of seamless knitwears and mass production in the national knit industry. The ending part of neck of the seamless knitwear is not only the last stage in making knitwear but also affects the function and appearance of the clothes. The investigator, thus made six different pieces of experimental clothes according to the finishing methods of knitting on the neck, then measured tensile strength and put them to the test by a group of experts for the assessment of wearing sensation. The results were analyzed based on variance analysis(ANOVA), and the items with similar results were put to the Duncan test for intergroup comparison. According to the analysis results of measuring tensile strength, Experimental Clothes B received the highest evaluation, Experimental Clothes E the lowest. Also Experimental Clothes B was ranked the highest in almost every evaluation criteria, whereas Experimental Clothes E was ranked the lowest in the assessment of wearing sensation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.151-166
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the Russian abstract artist Kazimir Malevich's works during the period of absolutism and thereupon, suggest some knitwear designs practical, decorative and creative. For this purpose, the researcher reviewed domestic and foreign literature, dissertations and academic journals to determine the Russian abstract fine art and the significance of Kazimir Malevich's works in the history of arts and thereupon, examined Malevich's works or the champions of absolutism in terms of their geometric formative elements or forms and colors. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; First, paintings may be important motives for the contemporary costume designs, while being a major driving power for development of some original designs depending on artists' personal thoughts and expression techniques. Second, this study is deemed to suggest creative and original techniques and motive applications for fashion designs by introducing the elements of Kazimir Malevich's paintings into costume designs, and provide for an opportunity to suggest new values by combining arts and fashion. Third, the knit jacquard technique, one of the major techniques for the knit design works using Kazimir Malevich's absolutism works, is considered a tubular jacquard featuring the deepest sense of thickness. The intarsia technique is preferred in the recent trend for light fabric because it features clear background patterns and allows for thinner fabric. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will serve to expand the domain of expression by means of an art marketing or meeting between arts and fashion in our contemporary industries.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.394-400
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• 2013

At a time when the demand for environmentally friendly products is soaring, the fashion industry is following suit. The industry is showing particular interest in natural-dyed products. Against this backdrop, this study conducted a literature review on the history of natural dyeing for textiles and on the types of natural dyes. In addition, this study identified recent trends in the fashion industry and applied the findings from the literature review to those trends. Through this process, possibilities for new designs were suggested. This study proposed designs for various items-t shirts, one-piece dresses, blouses, skirts, and knitwear-by using threads and textiles dyed from mugwort, Polygonum indigo, safflowers, Lithospermum erythrorhizon, and Sophora japonica flowers. This study is also meaningful in that it broadens the boundaries of design for natural-dyed fashion products. To that end, various designs were attempted by combining natural-dyed textiles or knits with leather, denim, and fur.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.107-120
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• 2009

This research extracted and analyzed 54 papers on knit field published in "The Research Journal of the Costume Culture", "Journal of The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles", "The Journal of The Korean Society of Costume", "The Science and Technology of Clothing Appearance and Fit", "Journal of The Korean Society of Design Culture", "Textile Science and Engineering (Formerly Journal of the Korean Fiber Society", "Journal of The Korean Society for Clothing Industry", "Journal of the Korean Living Science Association", and "Journal of The Korean Home Economics Association" to analyze papers on knit field in textile science in depth. The result of the research shows that the number of papers is small compared to other fields and it is being researched limitedly due to relatively high ratio of subjects such as designs and patterns, knit hand assessment, and manufacturing fashion trends.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제42권8호
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• pp.203-218
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• 2004

Recently, knitted materials are used more often than ever before in fashion. Therefore it is necessary to study their application into garment patterns. The purpose of this study was to develop a system by which the tensile property of knitted fabrics can be applied. In this study, 5 different distribution methods of tensile property were tested on 2 sample fabrics which have a lower and higher tensile property than moderate-stretch. The subjects were five women within an age range from 18 to 24 who showed average body figures. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows; The 4th method was regarded as the most valid. The 4th method was fixed proportional alteration based on the reduction amount of bust girth, i.e. front (back) width and shoulder width reduced by 60％ of the bust girth reduction and neck point reduced by 28％ of the bust girth reduction. When the reduction was based on the proportion of the actual measurements, the alteration was too severe, so that the armhole curve was changed into a very uncomfortable curve.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.628-637
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• 2004

The objectives of this study were to investigate the preference of characters for children＇s underwear and to find out the sensibility factors of preferred characters. It was also examined what sensibility factors of the characters were important for children＇s underwear as well as how characters were recognized as a factor in purchase of children＇s underwear. The research sample consisted of 300 Korean mothers who have children ranging from first to six grade in elementary school. Data were analyzed by Frequency analysis, ANOVA, and t-test. The results are as follows: According to the sensibility analysis, character image was classified into 3 factors, Pleasure, Riches, and Childish; Among three sensibility factors, Pleasure was the most important factor to affect the preferred character; National characters were more preferred than licensed characters.