• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.229-235
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• 2014

This study conducted a research on burn-out printing convergence technology for cellulose blend knit fabrics. Printing technology, which forms color pattern on the fabric, can be generally classified into four according to printer or printing method, e.g. screen printing, roller printing, rotary printing, digital printing. However, these printing methods are flat in design or pattern, which have limitation to overcome monotonousness of fabric, so that recently burn-out process method, which expresses three-dimensional pattern effect by treating chemical on the surface of fabric as the method to appeal its esthetics to the customers. Particularly, in case of cellulose/polyester composite material, first, it is proceeded in 2 processes, by dyeing cellulose or polyester fabric and burning out cellulose fabric, in this process, due to pollution caused by disperse dye migration, color of polyester fabric part could be discolored, which has high falt risk. This research considered coloring burn-out technique, which simultaneously proceed dyeing and burn-out by reducing dyeing and burn-out process to 1 stage, which were proceeded in 2 stages previously. As the research result, it was confirmed that reasonable depth of roller was 0.04~0.06mm in roller printing process, heat treatment condition of burn-out far-infrared radiation was $185^{\circ}C{\times}30m/min$. Color fastness to washing was confirmed to be 4-5 grade, color fastness to rubbing, 3-4 grade, color fastness to light, 4 grade. Also, it was confirmed that energy reduction effect appeared 38.19%, in case of energy cost per yard compared to the existing production, also, 19.74%, in case of production cost.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.69-83
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• 2011

This study applied cartoon-like simple and implicit symbol of Keith Haring works to tubular jacquard knit, designed woman casual knit wear with fun, explicit and activities using fluorescent yarns with explicit features. This study aimed to propose the directions for new market pioneering that meets the emotional requirements of modern people by raising the level of utilization and expression area of knit fashion, and to present the constructive directions for high value-added knit wear by designing highly effective knit wear. Methods of this study examined the lifetime and artistic background of Keith Haring and collected his works through searching of internet, scholastic publications or thesis. Formative types and colors of works collected were analyzed and classified according to characteristic standards of Haring and characteristic formativeness and color of works were extracted. The result of this study is as shown below: First, the feature of his works can be summarized into motif that has symbolic and implicit cartoon-like lines including narratives as well as enormous number of works. Such feature is very suitable for variation and recombination in realization of design and has unlimited potentials for development. Second, image colors can be extracted such as black and white, original color and fluorescent paints, which reflects the intention of artist who put focus on communication with the public. Such color feature is very suitable for design motif that has explicitness of reflecting the intention of artist through use of special fluorescent yarn. Third, I made it as reversible wear that has effects of increasing or decreasing the explicitness according to color area ratio using the feature of textures allowing use of both sides as well as form stability of tubular jacquard. Fourth, by adjusting the thickness of fabric with controlling of ply in fabric using poly yarn and wool union yarn, I could obtain good results of study in terms of technique that can express various materials with embossed dynamic effects of unevenness on flat surface.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.109-117
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• 2010

Knit fabrics are created on diverse machines with diverse knit loops and conditions to make different patterns and fabric types. Dimensional modifications of knit fabrics can also be achieved by numerous methods such as different knit-loop structures, different types of yarns, or different finishing processes including heat setting, steaming, chemical treatment et cetera. This research develops and explores sophisticated three-dimensional knit fabrics by combining the several different knit stitches including rib and purl. This study focuses on 3D knit models created on modern electronic weft (flat V-bed) knitting machines which have capability of individual needle selection. Several samples of the 3D knitted fabrics are also examined in this research. This research furthermore suggests new types of knitted fashion garment made by using the interesting physical effects.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.93-105
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• 2018

Using FDM 3D printing, yarn shape and composition were modeled and 3D printed with PLA and TPU filaments currently used for apparel. Based on this, mechanical characteristics were measured to determine 3D printing yarn according to type of filaments in the 3D printed output and deformation and recovery characteristics due to differences in structure type. As a result of examining tensile and shear characteristics of PLA and TPU 3D printing compiles, TPU overall was measured with significantly lower stress than PLA. This is due to high elasticity of TPU's character, revealing that it has better flexibility than PLA. In addition, during deformation due to external forces, the more freedom between the head and foot parts of the loop, and the lower the force associated with each other, the more flexible it is. TPU revealed that it was easier to tension and recovery from tensile deformation than PLA, indicating potential for clothing materials using 3D printing. If high-molecular materials, such as PLA flexibility, it is likely to provide some flexibility through development of styles, including degree of freedom in modeling. Based on this, we provide basic data for developing 3D printing textures that can be satisfied with textile for apparel.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.117-123
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• 2014

This paper examined dyeing using sulfur dye with nylon and the characteristics of high gauge knitting for generating high functionality including light weight, wind resistance and elasticity using fine nylon threads. Yarn tension, stitch field and knitting speed of high and fine gauge knitting were measured. The influence of reducing agents on sulfur dye, optimum dyeing conditions and fastness features in nylon dyeing were analyzed. The analysis results are presented below. When nylon (Hyoseong, 40d/34f) and spandex (Hyoseong, 20d) for use as hosiery yarn were used to knit high gauge and flat weave, 44 gauge, the effective knitting conditions were a stitch field over 8.2cm in 1 course length, yarn tension of less than 5g and knitting speed below 18rpm. Nylon dyeing using sulfur dye showed effective results when a rongalite reducing agent was used at more than 10% o.w.f. and dyeing was maintained at $98^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes. For dyeing nylon and spandex composite using sulfur dye, color fastness in washing, water, daylight and friction were higher than Class 4 or 5, which indicated a superior property. The analysis results verified that the existing problems in nylon dyeing could be solved by using sulfur dyes that don't use heavy metals due to superior fastness and therefore quality, high gauge nylon knit products could be produced.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.542-555
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• 2006

The main objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between benefits segmentation and knitwear purchasing behavior of college female students in the U.S. The questionnaires for this survey were developed to measure knitwear purchasing behavior and benefits segmentation. The questionnaire was administered to 119 female college students in the University of California. The data was analyzed by percentage, frequency, mean, factor analysis, Cluster Analysis and ANOVA, Duncan Multiple Range test. The female college students in the U.S. were classified into fourth subdivisions by the cluster analysis. In the case of fashion information sources of knit wear, significant differences were found according to benefits sought subdivision in observation of famous people's clothing, fashion articles in magazines and newspapers, TV advertisements, Newspaper advertisements, advice of salespeople, and Catalogs. The evaluation criteria of knit wear product of consumers were significantly different depending on benefits sought subdivision in design/style, quality of construction, fashionable, brand and store name, pleasing to others, prestige, and sexy. The store attributes of knitwear product of consumers were significantly different depending on benefits sought subdivision in friendliness of sales personnel, product knowledge of sales personnel, brand names, new fashion, and variety of products. The outlook for the industry of knitwear look to remain bright, there should be a continuous effort to research and invest in consumer satisfaction of knitwear.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.131-139
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the knitwear size standards for the effective production. For this purpose, knit promotions that product knitwear for 20 age $\sim$ 30 middle age women were sampled to survey their condition of the size designation and basic product size of knitwear, and their directors were surveyed through direct interviews. Data is processed by a computer(SPSS) and analyzed by using frequency, percentage, mean and mode. The results of this study are as follows. 1. Size designation and bodysize of knitwear are not standardized. 2. Knit promotions that don't mark bodysize on the size designation label are not a few. 3. Cardigan's sizes except for a few part are equal to round/pola T-shirt's sizes or are large more than those.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.23-30
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• 2006

The bending properties, wrinkle resistance, and fabric retention behaviors of cotton knitted fabrics in the wale and course directions were studied for their dependence upon resin finishing, knit structure, and washing cycles. Stiffness, wrinkle recovery angles, and dimensional stability were investigated before and after resin finishing and laundering. It has been found that any change in the physical properties of the knitted fabrics with respect to knit structure and fabric directions are related to accompanying modifications to the state of the fiber properties. The decrease of fabric shrinkage rates and wrinkle recovery properties from increasing laundering cycles is related with resin incorporated on the fiber surface. This study shows that resin finishing on knitted fabrics can be performed only to improve fabric retention properties with reduced wrinkle recovery properties.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.95-109
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• 2022

This study was aimed at developing a new textile design based on the authentic and cultural resources of the Gangneung Subo pattern and applying the textile design to knitted fashion products. Gangneung has been recognized for its outstanding artistry in the field of Gyubang art. Gangneung Subo is an embroidered wrapping cloth. The discovered and preserved Subo at this time was from the Kwandong region centered in Gangeung, and is regarded as the product of the indigenous native culture in Kwandong. Therefore, as a representative cultural resource of Gangneung, the Gangneung Subo has sufficient value as a material for the development of cultural products with uniqueness, distinctiveness, and historicality. As a research method, the background of Gangneung Subo was investigated. A total of 12 motifs were created while preserving the authentic originality of the Gangneung Subo pattern and minimizing unwanted deformations of the pattern during the developing process. The created motifs were repeatedly applied to the pattern and new textile designs were created. Eighteen knit fashion products, including narrow and wide-width mufflers and neck warmers, were developed by applying the new textile designs. As a significant cultural resource for cultural goods development, this study ascertained the value of Gangneung Subo, preserving its unique distinction and history. This study was especially significant since the Gangneung cultural goods developed used knitted material and extended the development to producing real products.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1993.06b
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• pp.561-566
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• 1993