• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국해양공학회 2004년도 학술대회지
• /
• pp.96-101
• /
• 2004

When the wind blows hard, most waves are breaking in sea. Breaking waves occur, exceeding limitation of wave steepness(wave height/wave length=l/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency couldn't generate the breaking phenomena at two dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies. We research how are the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force. We compare the force in a regular wave which has same specifications(wave height, period and length) as the breaking wave. Also the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated by comparison on the analytic results using the potential theory.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
• /
• 제68권6호
• /
• pp.701-711
• /
• 2018

Herein, the thermo-magneto-elastic wave dispersion answers of functionally graded (FG) double-nanobeam systems (DNBSs) are surveyed implementing a nonlocal strain gradient theory (NSGT). The kinematic relations are derived employing the classical beam theory. Also, scale influences are covered precisely in the framework of NSGT. Moreover, Mori-Tanaka homogenization model is introduced in order to obtain the effective material properties of FG nanobeams. Meanwhile, effects of external forces such as thermal and Lorentz forces are included in this research. Also, based upon the Hamilton's principle, the Euler-Lagrange equations are developed; afterwards, these equations are incorporated with those of NSGT to reach the nonlocal governing equations of FG-DNBSs. Furthermore, according to an analytical approach, the governing equations are solved to obtain the wave frequencies and phase velocities of FG-DNBSs. At the end, some illustrations are rendered to clarify the influences of a wide range of involved parameters.

• 한국해양공학회지
• /
• 제36권2호
• /
• pp.101-107
• /
• 2022

Dean (1965) proposed the use of the root mean square error (RMSE) in the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC) and kinematic free-surface boundary condition (KFSBC) as an error evaluation criterion for wave theories. There are well known wave theories with RMSE more than 1%, such as Airy theory, Stokes theory, Dean's stream function theory, Fenton's theory, and trochodial theory for deep-water waves. However, none of them can be applied for deep-water breaking waves. The purpose of this study is to provide a closed-form solution for deep-water waves with RMSE less than 1% even for breaking waves. This study is based on a previous study (Shin, 2016), and all flow fields were simplified for deep-water waves. For a closed-form solution, all Fourier series coefficients and all related parameters are presented with Newton's polynomials, which were determined by curve fitting data (Shin, 2016). For verification, a wave in Miche's limit was calculated, and, the profiles, velocities, and the accelerations were compared with those of 5^th-order Stokes theory. The results give greater velocities and acceleration than 5^th-order Stokes theory, and the wavelength depends on the wave height. The results satisfy the Laplace equation, bottom boundary condition (BBC), and KFSBC, while Stokes theory satisfies only the Laplace equation and BBC. RMSE in DFSBC less than 7.25×10^-2% was obtained. The series order of the proposed method is three, but the series order of 5^th-order Stokes theory is five. Nevertheless, this study provides less RMSE than 5^th-order Stokes theory. As a result, the method is suitable for offshore structural design.

• 한국농공학회지
• /
• 제32권E호
• /
• pp.33-46
• /
• 1990

Abstract Over 700/0 of the rural land area in Korea is mountainous and small watersheds provide most of the water resources for agricutural use. To provide an appropriate tool for the agricultural water resource development project, SNUA2, a mathematical model for simulating the physical processes governing the precipitation-runoff relationships and predicting the storm and long-term runoff quantities from the small mountainous watersheds was developed. The hydrological characteristics of small mountainous watersheds were reviewed to select appropriate theories for the simulation of the runoff processes, and a deterministic and distributed model was developed. In this, subsurface flows are routed by solving Richard's two dimensional equation, the dynamics of soil moisture contents are simulated by the consideration of phenological factors of canopy plants and surface flows are routed by solving the kinematic wave theory by numerical analysis. As a result of an application test of the model to the Sanglim watershed, peak flow rates of storm runoff were over-estimated by up to 184.2%. The occurence time of peak flow and total runoff volume of storm runoffs simulated were consistent with observed values and the annual runoff volumes were simulated in the error range of less than 5.8%.

• 한국해양공학회지
• /
• 제17권6호
• /
• pp.7-15
• /
• 2003

A Digital Wave Tank simulation technique, based on a finite-difference method and a modified marker-and-cell (MAC) algorithm, is applied in order to investigate the characteristics of nonlinear Tsunami propagations and their interactions with a 2D sloping beach, Ohkushiri Island, and to predict maximum wove run-up around the island. The Navier-Stokes (NS) and continuity equation are governed in the computational domain, and the boundary values are updated at each time step, by a finite-difference time-marching scheme in the frame of the rectangular coordinate system. The fully nonlinear, kinematic, free-surface condition is satisfied by the modified marker-density function technique. The near shore Tsunami is assumed to be a solitary wave, and is generated from the numerical wave-maker in the developed Digital Wave Tank. The simulation results are compared with the experiments and other numerical methods, based on the shallow-water wave theory.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국해양공학회 2003년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
• /
• pp.231-239
• /
• 2003

A Digital Wave Tank simulation technique based on a finite-difference method and a modified marker-and-cell (MAC) algorithm is applied to investigate the characteristics of nonlinear Tsunami propagations and their interactions with a 2D sloping beach and Ohkushiri island, and to predict maximum wave run-up around the island. The Navier-Stokes (NS) and continuity equation are governed in the computational domain and the boundary values updated at each time step by a finite-difference time-marching scheme in the frame of rectangular coordinate system. The fully nonlinear kinematic free-surface condition is satisfied by the modified marker-density function technique. The Nearshore Tsunami is assumed to be a solitary wave and generated from the numerical wavemaker in the developed Digital Wave Tank. The simulation results are compared with the experiments and other numerical methods based on the shallow-water wave theory.

• Advances in nano research
• /
• 제7권3호
• /
• pp.157-167
• /
• 2019

In this paper, a classical plate model is utilized to formulate the wave propagation problem of magnetostrictive sandwich nanoplates (MSNPs) while subjected to hygrothermal loading with respect to the scale effects. Herein, magnetostriction effect is considered and controlled on the basis of a feedback control system. The nanoplate is supposed to be embedded on a visco-Pasternak substrate. The kinematic relations are derived based on the Kirchhoff plate theory; also, combining these obtained equations with Hamilton's principle, the local equations of motion are achieved. According to a nonlocal strain gradient theory (NSGT), the small scale influences are covered precisely by introducing two scale coefficients. Afterwards, the nonlocal governing equations can be derived coupling the local equations with those of the NSGT. Applying an analytical solution, the wave frequency and phase velocity of propagated waves can be gathered solving an eigenvalue problem. On the other hand, accuracy and efficiency of presented model is verified by setting a comparison between the obtained results with those of previous published researches. Effects of different variants are plotted in some figures and the highlights are discussed in detail.

• 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국전산유체공학회 2004년도 춘계 학술대회논문집
• /
• pp.119-125
• /
• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory and solitary wave theory are employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with each other. The marker-density method is better then the hybrid method. Also they are compared with other existing experimental results. The Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

• Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
• /
• 제2권1호
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 2016

The objective of this paper is to present an analytical solution in deep water waves and verify the validity of the theory (Shin, 2015). Hence this is a follow-up to Shin (2015). Instead of a variational approach, another approach was considered for a more accurate assessment in this study. The products of two coefficients were not neglected in this study. The two wave profiles from the KFSBC and DFSBC were evaluated at N discrete points on the free-surface, and the combination coefficients were determined for when the two curves pass the discrete points. Thus, the solution satisfies the differential equation (DE), bottom boundary condition (BBC), and the kinematic free surface boundary condition (KFSBC) exactly. The error in the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC) is less than 0.003%. The wave theory was simplified based on the assumption tanh $D{\approx}1$ in this paper. Unlike the perturbation method, the results are possible for steep waves and can be calculated without iteration. The result is very simple compared to the 5th Stokes' theory. Stokes' breaking-wave criterion has been checked in this study.

• Coupled systems mechanics
• /
• 제2권1호
• /
• pp.53-83
• /
• 2013

Sea waves induce significant pressures on coastal surfaces, especially on rocky vertical cliffs or breakwater structures (Peregrine 2003). In the present work, this hydrodynamic pressure is considered as the excitation acting on a piezoelectric material sheet, installed on a vertical cliff, and connected to an external electric circuit (on land). The whole hydro/piezo/electric system is modeled in the context of linear wave theory. The piezoelectric elements are assumed to be small plates, possibly of stack configuration, under a specific wiring. They are connected with an external circuit, modeled by a complex impedance, as usually happens in preliminary studies (Liang and Liao 2011). The piezoelectric elements are subjected to thickness-mode vibrations under the influence of incident harmonic water waves. Full, kinematic and dynamic, coupling is implemented along the water-solid interface, using propagation and evanescent modes (Athanassoulis and Belibassakis 1999). For most energetically interesting conditions the long-wave theory is valid, making the effect of evanescent modes negligible, and permitting us to calculate a closed-form solution for the efficiency of the energy harvesting system. It is found that the efficiency is dependent on two dimensionless hydro/piezo/electric parameters, and may become significant (as high as 30 - 50%) for appropriate combinations of parameter values, which, however, corresponds to exotically flexible piezoelectric materials. The existence or the possibility of constructing such kind of materials formulates a question to material scientists.