• Title/Summary/Keyword: jackets

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A Study of Patterns of Women's Jackets (Jeogori) in Modern Korea (근대 여자한복 유물의 문양연구)

  • An, Hyun-Joo;Cho, Woo-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.10
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    • pp.100-117
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    • 2010
  • This thesis has three main purposes: first, will show kinds, patterns, types, expression techniques of modern korean women's trimmings by every ten years. Second, it is to trace the effect of each decade on women's Hanbok trimming designs. Third, it will point out factors. that caused the change of modern Korean women's Hanbok trimming design patterns. Henceforth, there comes the result of the research and analysis. Trimming design patterns of modern women's Hanbok can be divided into three categories temporally: The first period of from 1910s to the first half of 1950s saw that design patterns did not changed much from traditional ones. It is because there were many catastrophes such as the invasion of Japanese Empire and Korean War. The compound design had expressed people's wish to earn many sons and babies at the end of Joseon Dynasty. But it turned to wishing luck for individuals affected by individualism and liberalism imported from the west. Realistic designs are the most frequently used and the least lines made up patterns. The second period of from the latter half of 1950s to 1970s saw that women wore their Jeogories and Chimas as suits. Screen printing technique enabled for various design patterns to come out. And the development of textile industry introduced various expression techniques such as making lace, meshing, flocking, burn-out etc cetera. The third period of 1980s saw that Hanbok became a kind of luxurious clothe as people's living standard rose. Hanbok again came into the spotlight, Hanbok designers came forward and their individualities are respected. The characteristic expression technique of grey-dying and geometric design patterns are more frequently used for the simple and modern beauty.

A Study on the Insulation of Thermal Clothing Under Dynamic Air Condition (풍속 존재 시 쾌적보온성 의복의 온열특성에 관한 연구)

  • Song, Min-Kyu;Kwon, Myoung-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.9
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    • pp.29-37
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate insulation of thermal clothing under still and dynamic air conditions(with 2.1m/sec air velocity) and decrease of insulation in both conditions, to analyze correlations among them, and to estimate insulation and decrease of insulation using factors, such as fabric insulation, fabric weight, clothing weight, air permeability, and water vapor resistance. A total of 25 kinds of clothing were tested(9 types for suits, 6 types of jacket, 5 types for shirts, and 5 types for trousers). The results of this study were as follows; Thermal resistance of clothing under the dynamic air condition decreased comparing to that of clothing under still air condition in all types of clothing. Decrease in shirts was the biggest(47.5%), followed by suits(39.51%), trousers(37.48%), and jackets(34.49%) in sequence. Thermal resistance of clothing under dynamic air condition showed very high correlation(0.98, p<0.01) with that of clothing under still air condition, followed by thermal resistance of fabric(0.86, p<0.01). Decrease in thermal resistance of clothing showed the highest correlation with air permeability. It didn't show correlation with other factors. Regression analysis showed that fabric thickness would be useful factor for estimating thermal resistance of clothing and air permeability also would be useful factor for estimating decrease in thermal resistance of clothing.

A Study of Crinoline and Bustle Style Jacket Pattern Analysis and its Reproduction (크리놀린 스타일 및 버슬 스타일 재킷의 패턴분석과 재현에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Jin-Suk;Lee, Jeong-Ran
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.80-88
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    • 2006
  • This study attempted to undertake comparative analysis of woman's jacket pattern and details based on the Crinoline and Bustle style of the 19th century, comprehend the relation and differences between the two styles. And it also presented the resultant characteristics and attempted reproducing the original dress of the past for the development of modern woman's jacket design. Larger portion was occupied for the breast front width than the back width for both Crinoline and Bustle style, which indicated the remarkable difference between these styles and modern jackets in terms of pattern size. Circumferences also showed that both styles had larger size for the front region than for the back. Divided by two types of pattern shape. The Crinoline style has a waist line and flare. On the other hand, the Bustle style does not have a waist line and has pleats. These two styles shows distinct differences of patterns even if they seem similar. It was essential to undertake the designing of models by giving a consideration to the characteristics of patterns of the two styles. With respect to how to sketch the study models which will be applied for the reproduction to modern body sizes were as follows: the front bust circumference; B/4 +1+1 cm, the back bust circumference; B/4 +1-1 cm, front waist circumference; W/4 +1+1 cm, back waist circumference; W/4 +1-1 cm, the height of sleeve crown; AH/3, armhole line; B/4, the back width /2; 17.5 cm, the breast front width /2; 16.5cm. And for the rest parts, sizes reflecting the characteristics of the patterns of two styles have been applied.

Thermal Characteristics of Men's Suit Ensembles (남성용 정장의 온열특성 연구)

  • Song, Min-Kyu;Jeon, Byung-Ik
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.1 no.3
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    • pp.264-274
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    • 1999
  • The thermal resistance of 60 men's suits for summer and winter was measured to determine their thermal characteristics and physical properties, including air permeability, weight, and thickness of the jackets and trousers consisted of the ensembles were measured to predict the thermal resistance of garments and ensembles. In this study, general physical properties of the men' suit ensembles were determined. In general, thickness and weight of winter ensembles were greater than those of summer ensembles. A factor which could distinguish the difference between summer and winter ensembles was the air permeability. The air permeability of summer ensembles was 3~6 times greater than those of winter ensembles. For the thermal characteristics, the thermal resistance of winter ensembles were higher than those of summer ensembles. When the wind was involved, the thermal resistance of both ensembles decreased up to 30%. In addition, the equations were developed to predict the thermal resistance of the garments and ensembles when there was no air velocity and the thermal resistance of the ensembles with air velocity of 1.2 m/sec. Looking at the equations, thickness, weight, and size of the garments were the definite factors that affect the thermal resistance of the samples.

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Design Characteristics of New Senior Women's Coat (뉴 시니어 여성코트의 디자인 특성)

  • Bae, Siyeon;Lee, Kyoung-Hee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.157-167
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    • 2015
  • This study was initiated to understand design and detail characteristics of coats that targeted new senior women by analyzing shape, color, fabric and detail. For the new senior, youthful appearance has more appeal than products that represent elder's style. Among, the coat can be effectively utilized as a trendy fashion item that targets seniors since it is more useful to hide figures than pants, blouses or jackets. The objectives of this research were to: First, examine design characteristics of new senior women's coat. Second, understand design characteristics of new senior women's coat. Third, analyze the relationship between the design of collars and details according to type of new senior women's coat. Photographs collected were categorized according to type of coat. Three types of coat (balmacaan, redingote and trench) were chosen to analyze with the highest frequency. The results of analyzing shape, length, color and fabric of the products made in domestic and foreign brands were similar; however, the collar and way of fastening showed significant results that required specific analysis since the design elements were related to maincoat characteristics in protecting against the cold. The depth of the V-zone can change without change of collar width and design changes in V-zone that influence the coat image that lead to changes in sleeve type and length (or fastening and closing position) method.

A Study on the Wearing Conditions of Motorcycle Jackets for Quick Service Transporter (퀵서비스 운송업자 모터사이클 재킷 착용실태 조사)

  • Sohn, Jae Min;Choi, Hei Sun;Kim, Eun Kyung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.247-257
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    • 2015
  • This study conducted a questionnaire survey on the real condition of clothing with focus on related to general motorcycle wear and motorcycle jacket targeting a quick service carrier affiliated with a quick service business in Seoul. In addition, this study is aimed at providing basic data on developing the motorcycle jacket, whose motional flexibility, safety and functionality are excellent, exclusively for a quick service carrier by grasping inconveniences and problems and deducting improvements on the basis of the questionnaire survey. This study, on the basis of the questionnaire survey results, grasped the general part related to quick service and motorcycle wear, such as their general matters, whether they were having on the motorcycle wear in the middle of doing business, whether it's necessary to wear the motorcycle wear, where they had a driving accident, and kinds of external injuries, etc. From the gathered results of analysis of the collected questionnaires, the item which got the lowest satisfaction was the inconvenience from the chafed front neck when driving. Besides, the results showed carriers' complaints like the elbow part felt tight, discomfort in the horizontal movement of the shoulders or back, and wind admission in between zippers. In addition, the respondents showed complaints in the item about hygroscopic property and air permeability at the armpits and back part, and 5 items about material flexibility, wind shielding property, living water repellency, weighty sensation, and night visibility were found to be low in respondents' satisfaction.

Actual Wearing Conditions and Attitude: An Initial Report on an Outdoor Wearing Survey for Man and Woman in their 30s to 50s (30~50대 남녀의 아웃도어 웨어 착용실태 및 인식조사(제 1보))

  • Paek, Kyung Ja;Hwang, Young Mi;Lee, Jeong Ran
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.15 no.5
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    • pp.787-796
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    • 2013
  • This study is an initial report of actual wearing conditions and attitude based on a survey of wearing outdoor wear for men and women in their 30s to 50s who enjoy daily leisure sport activities. Most middle-aged men and women who enjoy outdoor activities were interested in new trends and clothing styles. The greatest area of interest was health(42.9%), followed by leisure and sports(38.4%); in addition, hiking(40.2%) was the most popular outdoor activity. The majority of subjects participated in outdoor activities for over 5 years(34.4%). The highest frequency of outdoor activities was conducted once or twice a month, and it took one to three hours for each activity. Nearly half of the respondents( 47.7%) answered that the goal of outdoor activities was to maintain their health. Subjects in their 40s and 50s were more equipped in their outdoor activities and in their 50s made ongoing investments despite costs. When wearing clothing, the subjects placed a priority on design(in the case of subjects in their 30s) and comfort(for subjects in their 40s and 50s). This survey shows that the subjects emphasized access to outdoor wear and equipment. In all age groups, the biggest complaint about outdoor wear was price; in addition, they were unsatisfied with the length and the sleeves of outdoor jackets. Outdoor wear will draw a positive attention for its practical use of clothing if it is developed according to consumer demands based on functionality for outdoor activities and convenience in daily life.

Survey on Purchase and Fitting of Menswear Suits according to Styles for Consumers in Their 30s (30대 남성 소비자의 수트 스타일에 따른 구매 및 맞음새 조사)

  • Kim, Myoung-Ok;Suh, Mi-A
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.19 no.1
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    • pp.191-199
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study was designed to investigate the purchasing considerations given and wearing fit according to suit styles in male consumers in their 30s by conducting questionnarie research with 410 persons. The research intended to give menswear manufacturers the scientific data to improve consumers' satisfaction when menswear brands produce jackets. The summary and conclusions in this study are as follows: First, male consumers have moderate interest in fashion and recognize the impact of fashion on their professional lives. Also, male consumers were aware that recent menswear fashion trends are being changed to slim-fit. Second, by examining the suit inventory and the purchasing consideration according to the suit styles, male consumers in their 30s had between 2 to 4 suits, both in slim-fit and classic-fit, respectively. When consumers purchase a suit, the most important consideration factors are size and wearing fit in both slim-fit and classic-fit. The reason to purchase a slim fit suit is that it seems slim due to its fitted silhouettes, while in a classic-fit suit, it is required because of job nature. Third, the result indicates the circumferences causing the most uncomfortable were the shoulder, chest, the back, and upper arm. Also, they mentioned the chest and the abdominal section including the shoulder as the most uncomfortable circumference to the question on what to be improved in jacket. Therefore, the research suggests that the menswear manufacturer should consider different consumers' desires which require different criteria based on the suit styles.

Renoir's Fashion Colors and Exotic Taste That Must Be Re-Evaluated (재평가되어야할 르누아르의 이국취미와 패션컬러)

  • Lee, KeumHee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.22 no.1
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    • pp.82-99
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    • 2018
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics that appeared in the fashion and colors of exotic tastes used by Renoir with a view to re-evaluating his-attitude towards exotic tastes. The methods used in this study were literature research and analysis of visual data from Renoir's works. The results of the study are as follows. Renoir's exotic tastes originated from the material perspective appearing in the fashions and accessories of Algeria, Orient, Spain, and Japan. Parisienne Odalisque Lise in Harem-style, Jeanne Samari in parisienne fashion holding a Japanese fan, and Gabriel in oriental fashion were portrayed as major muses. The Algerian style consisted of white, yellow or red veils, thobes, loose pants worn in Haik, and burnous. The Oriental-style was composed of harem pants, turbans, hair accessories, ornate zouave jackets, and oriental ornaments. The Spanish-style showed gay ornaments, fitted red or yellow matador costume, red bandannas, black hats, and red dresses, plus Spanish guitars. The Japanese-style consisted of kimonos, accessories such as fans, and backgrounds with interior articles such as vases, wall picture frames, and folding screens. The exotic fashion colors were red, yellow and white. Renoir expressed the works with his delicate skills and sense of craftsmanship, and he even added creative design portrayals sometimes. He selected fashions and accessories of exotic tastes as objects and expressed the objects with materials and colors reflecting regional characteristics as such, he can be regarded as an artist wed to who fashions of exotic tastes.

A Study on the Comparative Evaluation of wearing Fitness of Women′s Ready-made Jackets Using 3D Scanner (3D Scanner를 이용한 여성용 기성복 재킷의 착의적합성에 관한 비교평가연구)

  • Kim, Haekyung;Eunyoung Suk;Park, Soonjee;Chuyeon Suh;Jiyoung Lim
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.10
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    • pp.1707-1718
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구 목적은 3차원 인체 스캐너를 이용하여 여자 기성복 재킷의 여유량을 비교, 분석하는 것으로, 2사이즈 7브랜드의 재킷의 공극량을 계측하여 분석하였다. 첫째, 재킷 단면둘레 분석 결과, B85(품), B8(허리)를 제외하고 브랜드간에 유의한 차이를 나타내지 않아, 전반적으로, 브랜드간 제품치수에는 차이가 없는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 인체와 재킷의 단면둘레 분석 결과, 재킷의 배둘레를 제외한 모든 항목에서 유의한 차이가 나타나 피험자, 재킷 모두 사이즈에 따라 유의적인 차이 가 있음을 알 수 있다. 셋째, 기본사이즈 B85에서는 허리를 제외하고는 패턴 F가 가장 여유량이 많은 것으로 나타났으나, B88의 경우, 부위별로 각기 다른 패턴에서 여유량이 가장 많은 것으로 나타나, 각 부분마다 브랜드별로 그레이딩 룰이 다름을 알 수 있다. 넷째, 착의 단면은 인체와 의복간의 여유량 분포를 명백히 보여주며, 어깨, 가슴, 엉덩이처럼 몸에 밀착되는 부위는 다른 부위에 비해 패턴간, 각도별 변이가 적은 것으로 나타났다. 품, 허리, 배에서는 옆보다는 앞, 뒤로, 가슴에서는 앞뒤 좌우의 30$^{\circ}$방향, 엉덩이의 경우, 옆, 뒤보다는 앞쪽에 여유량이 집중되어 있는 것으로 나타났다. 다섯째, 브랜드별 평균공극길이에 대한 분산분석 결과, 전반적으로 패턴 F가 가장 공극량이 많고, 패턴 D가 작은 것으로 나타났다. 여섯째, 사이즈별 평균공극길이에 대한 t-검정 결과, 품과 배 부분에서, B88이 B85보다 공극량이 적은 것으로 나타나, 기준부위인 가슴, 허리, 엉덩이 부분뿐만 아니라 품, 배둘레의 치수에 대응할 수 있도록 그레이딩 룰 값을 산정하여야 함을 알 수 있다.

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