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A Study of Costumes in the Palace Painting Depicting the Worship of Buddha during the Reign of King Myungjong (관중숭불도에 나타난 16세기 복식연구)

  • 홍나영;김소현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.38
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    • pp.305-321
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    • 1998
  • The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

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Conservation of Golden Decorative(Jikgeumdan) Jeogori and Chima of Costumes Excavated from Hangju Gi' Tomb of Angang, Kyungsangbukdo Province - Re-adhesion of Gold Leaves in Gilt Paper Strips - (경상북도 안강 행주 기씨 묘 출토 직금단 치마와 저고리 보존처리 - 직금단 편금사의 금박 재접착을 중심으로 -)

  • Oh, Joon-Suk;Noh, Soo-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.9
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    • pp.67-75
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this research is to conserve of golden decoration(Jikgeumdan) of Chima(skirt) and Jeogori(Korean jacket) of the costumes excavated from Hangju Gi' tomb(17th Century) of Joseon dynasty$(1392{\sim}1910)$ and to focus on the development of conservation skill to prevent flakings of gold leaves in gilt paper strips. Up to the present, in case of golden decorations of costumes excavated from tombs of Joseon dynasty, some of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of costumes were flaked away by deterioration of adhesives in tombs. However, most of gold leaves were flaked away and totally lost by wet cleaning for eliminating contaminants after excavation. In order to prevent flaking, preliminary experiments for re-adhesion of gold leaves have been carried out. Firstly, simulation was performed using gold leaf which was available in the market. Adhesives used in this research were water-soluble adhesives(hide glue(cow, rabbit), glue made from air bladders of sciaenoid fish and Primal AC-3444 of acrylic emulsion) and solvent-soluble adhesives(acrylic adhesive Paraloid B-67 and B-72). Because of difficulty in wetting and spreading of adhesive solutions into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, water-soluble adhesives were not proper for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Solvent-soluble adhesives were easily infiltrated into interface between gold leaf and Korean paper and the adhesive force was also satisfied. From this result, the researchers chose more flexible Paraloid B-72$(Tg\;40^{\circ}C)$ 1% solution than Paraloid B-67$(Tg\;50^{\circ}C)$ for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Secondly, using Paraloid B-72 1% solution, the estimations of re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Jeogori were carried out. When Paraloid B-72 1% solution was injected three times into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, the re-adhesion was most effective. On the basis of the results in these preliminary experiments, re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Chima and Jeogori were carried out on condition of three times injections of Paraloid B-72 1% solution before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were survived, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.

A Study on the Colors and Coloration of Jeogori of Chosun Dynasty and the Modern Period of Korea

  • Lee, Jee-Hyun
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.49-61
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    • 2007
  • The subject of study concerns the color characteristics of clothing/accessories from �Chosun�a nd modern Korea. It particularly focuses on the colors of the �Jeogori? traditional jacket) which represents Korean traditional clothing. Color data were collected from 353 woman�s �Jegori�s from �Chosun�a nd modern Korea and divided into the predominant colors & sub colors, and analyzed with HV/C and PCCS. According to the analysis, the representative the predominant color of 'Chosun Jeogori' for woman is YR, Y and side one is R, YR. The p, dp, sf, ltg colors are frequently found and the freshness of most of them is medium or low which shows a calm-feeling. The p, and ltg tones are often found as a the predominant color and p, dp are also often found as a the side color. In the 'Chosun Jeogori' for woman, the predominant colors and the side colors spread in a similar frequency and most of them have medium or low freshness of the color that shows a calm-feeling. The side color is one of the R colors and it shows characteristics of traditional coloring such as �Jajoo Goreum? Among the �Jeogori�f or modern women, the R, YR, Y, and B colors are often used for the single-color �Jeogori? the Y, GY, N, G colors are for the colorful �Jeogori? The P, lt, and b tons of the color are often used for a single-color �Jeogori�a nd the p, lt, and W are for the colorful �Jeogori? For the colorful �Jeogori? the side color have a high freshness which shows that a strong image was used frequently as the dp, s, dk tons of the color were often used. According to an analysis of the coloring, the predominant color and the side color of �Chosun Jeogori�a re applied to create a harmony of analogy & contrast in one aspect of Moon & Spencer�s view. It is found that the predominant color and the side color are similar or contrasting in one view of the color harmony, except that the traditional the �Jeogori�i s colored by ideological and symbolic meanings. The predominant color and the side color of modern the �Jeogori�a re complementary colors which are applied to the indistinct relationship or contrasting harmony in one aspect of Moon & Spencer�s view of the color harmony. The characteristics of the color as above show that traditional the �Jeogori�r egards the side color as both the harmony of the colors in general and also of symbolic meaning, while modern the �Jeogori�f or woman has a tendency toward a cultural transition and is mixed with new colors focusing more on its the predominant color than on the general harmony and character of ideological & traditional coloring.

A Study on the Actual Wearing Conditions of Battle Dress Uniform for the Korean Police Special Weapons Attack Team (경찰특공대(SWAT) 작전복(BDU) 착용실태에 관한 연구)

  • Moon Yeon-Sil;Choi Hei-Sun;Kim Eun-Kyong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.5 s.95
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    • pp.108-119
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    • 2005
  • The objective of the study is was investigate the condition of the battle dress uniform worn by male members of the Korean Police Special Weapons Attack Team(KP-SWAT), identify problems, and provide basic raw materials for developing improved design of BDU. For this purpose, the researcher conducted a questionnaire survey on 92 male members of SWAT (Special Weapon Attack Team) units in Seoul using a questionnaire developed through observation and interview. Also, the body sizes of male SWAT members were measured. According to the results of body size measurements, male SWAT members generally require uniforms with a target bust girth, armhole, biceps circumference, thigh and calf circumference, longer jacket length, sleeve length, and trouser length to the knee. According to the results of the questionnaire survey, they reported dissatisfaction with the fit. In addition, they said that the Pockets are positioned too low for convenient use. Many subjects reported that their trousers were too short because of the rubber rings at the bottom of the legs. In addition, many subjects requested the alteration of the inconveniences caused by the designs finished with velcro on the bottom collar of the upper uniform, the marks and ensigns of the upper uniform, the bottom of the upper and lower uniform, and several pockets. Furthermore, there were many complaints concerning how they had to wear their uniform. The most frequently worn out and the body parts most often injured in field training and operations, they were reported, on the upper uniform, as the elbow, collar, neck, armpit, shoulder, and sleeve hem in that order, and on the lower uniform, the knee, interior calf, waist (belt rings), buttocks (rear pockets), and the bottom of the trousers (ankle) in that order As for questions concerning priorities in the improvements of the operational uniform and preferred design, the subjects recommended improvement in safety (protectiveness), workability (motional flexibility), design (shape), fit (size), comfort, ease in terms of putting on and taking off, etc., and the majority preferred two-piece designs ($67.4\%$), followed by one-piece ($30.4\%$), or both ($2.2\%$).

Dental application of glass-ceramic materials for aesthetic restoration (심미수복을 위한 글라스-세라믹 재료의 치과 응용)

  • Bae, Tae Sung
    • The Journal of the Korean dental association
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    • v.58 no.7
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    • pp.435-442
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    • 2020
  • Porcelain is the first ceramic material to be introduced into dentistry. Porcelain jacket crown was introduced by Dr. Charles H Land in 1886, which was an excellent aesthetic dental restoration but has not been widely used due to high firing shrinkage and low tensile strength. Then metal-ceramic system, which combines the esthetic properties of ceramics and the mechanical properties of metals, was introduced and nowadays it is still used in dental clinical field. However, the metal-ceramic system has shown some problems, such as increased lightness by reflection of light at opaque layer, shadow beneath the gingival line due to the block-out of light by metal coping, exposure of metal in margin part, bond failure between metal and porcelain, oxidation of metal coping during firing the porcelain, etc. Recently, along with the advance of fabrication methods of dental ceramics, the all-ceramic restorations with high esthetic and mechanical properties has increased and gradually replaced metal-ceramic restorations. Especially, CAD/CAM technology has opened a new era in fabricating the dental ceramic restorations. This overview will take a look at the past, present and future possibility of the dental ceramic materials.

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A COMPARATIVE STUDY OF THE SHEAR BOND STRENGTH AND ADHESIVE FAILURE PATTERN OF METAL BRACKETS BONDED ON NATURAL TEETH AND PORCELAIN TEETH (자연 치관과 포세린 치관상에서 교정용 브라켓 부착시 전단 결합 강도와 파절 양상에 관한 비교 연구)

  • Lee, Hyun-Sun;Kim, Jong-Soo;Yoo, Seung-Hoon
    • Journal of the korean academy of Pediatric Dentistry
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    • v.35 no.2
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    • pp.195-204
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    • 2008
  • Orthodontic brackets often need to be bonded to porcelain such as porcelain fused to metal crowns and porcelain jacket crowns. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the clinical usability of direct bonding system on porcelain teeth by measuring shear bond strength according to various conditions and observing adhesive failure patterns. The specimens, 20 maxillary premolars and 80 porcelain teeth that were produced by duplication of the labial surface of a maxillary first premolar were used and randomly divided into four groups of twenty teeth each. The 5 different preparation procedures tested: (1) application of 37% phosphoric acid on natural teeth, (2) sandblasting on porcelain surfaces, (3) sandblasting and application of 9.6% hydrofluoric acid on porcelain surfaces, (4) sandblasting and application of silane on porcelain surface, (5) sandblasting and application of 9.6% hydrofluoric acid and silane on porcelain surfaces. The metal brackets were bonded with Transbond $XT^{(R)}$ bonding material. The shear bond strength was tested by the micro universal testing machine(Kyung-Sung, Korea) and the amount of residual adhesive on the tooth surface after debonding was examined by stereoscope and assessed with an adhesive remnant index. The results of this study suggest that the direct bonding system on porcelain teeth with sandblasting, HF and porcelain primer is clinically useful.

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A Study of Costumes of the 18th Century, Appearing in Genre Paintings from the King Young-Cho Period to the King Jung-Cho Period: Focused upon the Works of Focused upon the Works of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang (영ㆍ정조 시대의 속화에 나타난 18C 복식에 관한 연구 -오명현, 윤용, 이인상, 강희언, 작품을 중심으로-)

  • 최은주
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.5
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    • pp.859-879
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    • 2004
  • As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

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Effects of Wet Feeding of Diets with or without Food Waste on Growth Performance and Carcass Characteristics in Finishing Pigs

  • Moon, J.S.;Kwon, I.K.;Chae, B.J.
    • Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.504-510
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    • 2004
  • Two experiments were conducted. In expt. 1, a total of fifty-four pigs (L$\times$Y$\times$D, 56.14$\pm$1.7 kg) were used for a feeding trial to determine the effect of wet feeding of a commercial-type diet without food waste (FW). Treatments were dry (Control), wet (WF) and wet+dry feeding (WDF). For wet feeding, the diet was mixed with water at a ratio of 1:2.5 (feed:water). A wet feed was given during the whole experimental period for the WF group, but the dry feed was given during the finisher period for the WDF group. In expt. 2, a total of fifty-four pigs(L$\times$Y$\times$D, 55.7$\pm$1.8 kg) were used for a feeding trial to determine the effect of wet feeding of FW. Treatments were a commercial-type dry (Control), wet fermented food waste (WFFW) and WFFW+dry feeding (WFFW+DF). For wet feeding of fermented food waste, however, some ingredients (concentrate) were added to make nutrient contents comparable to the control diet. The FW collected was ground ($\leq$5 mm), heated with a steam jacket (140$\pm$3$^{\circ}C$) and fermented with probiotics for one day in a steel container at 30-40$^{\circ}C$. For the WFFW group, the wet feed was given during the whole experimental period, but a dry feed was given during finisher period for the WFFW+DF group. In expt. 1, during the grower period, pigs fed wet feed showed higher average daily gain (ADG) and feed conversion ratio (FCR) than those fed only dry feed (p<0.05). During the finisher period, pigs in the WDF group showed better ADG and FCR than the control group. During the entire experimental period, pigs in the WDF group grew faster (p<0.05) than those in the control group, and the same trend was found in FCR. Also, dressing percentage, backfat thickness, lean %, and pork color were not affected by the wet feeding of diets in this study. In expt. 2, during the grower period, pigs fed diets containing FW showed lower (p<0.05) ADG than those fed the control diet. But FCR was better (p<0.05) in pigs fed FW than in the control group. During the finisher period, pigs in the WFFW+DF group grew faster (p<0.05) than those in the control and WFFW groups. During the entire experimental period, pigs fed the control diet showed better ADG (p<0.05) than those fed FW, but feed intake and FCR were vice versa. Dressing percentage was lower (p<0.05) in the WFFW than in the control group, but backfat was thinner in the WFFW group than in the control group. In summary, it can be concluded that wet feeding of formula feed can improve daily gain, however, feeding fermented wet food waste may reduce daily gain of finishing pigs, even though it was fermented and the nutrient was fortified with concentrates. In addition, dry feeding of a formula feed during the finishing period can improve daily gain in pigs fed a wet feed with or without food waste during the grower period.

Analysis of Domestic Woman Character Casual Brand Design for Party Wear Design Development (파티웨어 디자인 개발을 위한 국내 여성 캐릭터 캐주얼 브랜드 디자인 분석)

  • O, Ji-Hye;Lee, In-Seong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.5
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    • pp.856-865
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    • 2010
  • Many efforts to develop the domestic fashion industry have continued under the influence of a rapidly changing fashion industry environment. The fashion industry has emerged as a future growth industry leading lifestyle and as a core industry for the culture biz. Since the 2000's the markets that combined party and fashion wear as a new cultural trend has grown and an in-depth study of design development for party wear is required. This study presents basic materials for design development for the future domestic woman character casual brand prior to the design development by analyzing design characteristics of domestic female character casual brands. In the research methods, nine brands were selected based on the discussion of ten fashion specialists and then the brand concept, target, configuration of items, price, and design characteristics were analyzed. The following conclusions were drawn from this study. First, each brand concentrated the main focus on establishing a clear and unique brand identity that meets the needs of consumers to enhance competitiveness in the woman's dress market. To enhance competitiveness, many character casual brands targeting women aged 20's and 30's (including BEART) held party wear goods exhibitions as the market for party wear has increased significantly. Second, according to study results of the selected nine brand designs, it was found that the style characteristic of each brand varies depending on concept. However, all nine brand designs developed various styles such as feminine and cute style making use of laces, ruffles, A line silhouette, colorful motifs, and a stylish style that used layers with various materials along with unique decorations based on romantic emotions. Third, seven hundred and thirty eight pictures of nine brands were analyzed by items without identifying brands. According to the result of the analysis, the percentage of items used by brands was as follows: a one-piece dress was 34.5%, jacket 25.7%, skirt and pants 15.5%, blouse and shirt 13.6%, and tops 10.6%. The result showed that one-piece dresses accounted for the highest percentage. Frill accounted for 16.6%, the highest percentage followed by ribbons at 16% in regards to detail and trimming.

An Analysis of 2006-2007 F/W Women's Street Fashion in Dalian, China (2006-2007 F/W 중국 대련시 여성 스트리트 패션 분석)

  • Baek, Jeong-Hyun;Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.12 no.2
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    • pp.59-71
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this thesis is to analyse the style, color, and items of '06-07 F/W women's street fashion in Dalian. The cultural, racial and geographical uniqueness, asks for the analysis, based on the individual local area on the part of Korean fashion company desiring to launch into China fashion market. I would contribute to the understanding the preference of fashion in northeastern area, thereby, affording a fundamental resources for designing strategies for Korean fashion brands in China. The period of investigation is about 15 weeks from 23 Sep. 2006 until 6 Jan. 2007, with combined use of camcorder and digital camera. The site was Victory Shopping Plaza, in center of City, also with Mycal, Ansung, Dasang department store situated in the Economic Development Zone. Finally, 900 photos were selected for analysing. The result of this study are as follows: 1. Preferred clothing styles are jean casual 45.4%(409), sports casual 16.3%(147), character casual 8%(72), feminine 20.6%(185), Classic 9.7%(87). Compare to the former study about Spring, Sports casual showed dominant rate about 36.0% in casual style. In Winter, however, the preference were changed from sport casual to jean casual. 2. Preferred clothing items are parka/padding coat 32.3%(291), jumper 31%(279), T-shirts 16%(144) and jacket 7.5%(67) for tops, pants 91.8%(826) and skirts 8.2%(74) for bottoms. In the pants, straight pants 78.4%(648), bell bottom pants 10.9%(90), capri pants 7.4%(61), cargo pants 2.9%(24), bermuda pants 0.4%(3) were listed respectively. In the skirts, A-line skirt 51.3%(38), pleats skirt 25.7%(19), flare skirt 12.2%(9), semi-tight skirt 8.1%(6), tight skirt 2.7%(2) were listed. Finally the skirt length midi 75.7%(56), mini 18.9%(14) and maxi 5.4%(4) were listed. 3. Preferred colors are red 21.8%(196), white 21.6%(194), black 16.4%(148), yellow 10.0%(90), beige 9.3%(84), green 7.9(71) and blue 6.3%(57) for tops, and black 40.8%(367), blue 37.7%(339), gray 4.6%(41), white 4.3%(39) etc. for bottoms.