• Proceedings of the KSME Conference
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• 2002.08a
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• pp.205-208
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• 2002

Numerous studies have been performed to develop an analytical model that can predict the reflection of regular or irregular waves from a perforated-wall caisson breakwater. Though such irregular wave models as Suh et at. (2001) become available, regular wave models are still in extensive use because of their simplicity. In the present study, using the regular wave model of Fuggazza and Natale(1992), the reflection of irregular waves from a perforated-wall caisson breakwater was calculated in several different methods. First, the regular wave model was re-validated by the hydraulic model tests. Though the model somewhat over-predicted the reflection coefficients at larger values and under-predicted them at smaller values, overall agreement was pretty good between calculation and measurement. Then, the regular wave model was applied to calculate the irregular wave reflection in the experiments of Suh et at.(2001) and Bennett et al. (1992). In applying the regular wave model to irregular wave reflection, several different methods were used. The results showed that it is the most reasonable to use the regular wave model repeatedly for each frequency component of the irregular wave specuum with the root-mean-squared wave height for all the frequencies .

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2005.05b
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• pp.1073-1077
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• 2005

In this study, wave pressure is calculated by using irregular waves in front of a breakwater. In the numerical model, the Reynolds equations are solved by a finite difference method and $k-{\varepsilon}$ model is employed for the turbulence analysis. To track the free surface displacement, the volume of fluid method is employed. The results of two cases present that wave pressure change due to irregular wave similar to wave height of irregular wave. It is observed that wave pressure of Case 2 more bigger than wave pressure of Case 1 at the same position.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.11-20
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• 2003

In this paper we examine several methods tor calculating the reflection of irregular waves from a perforated-wall caisson breakwater using a regular wave model. The first method is to approximate the irregular waves as a regular wave whose height and period are the same as the root-mean-squared wave height and significant wave period, respectively, of the irregular waves. The second is to use the regular wave model, repeatedly, for each frequency component of the irregular wave spectrum. The wave period is determined according to the frequency of the component wave, and the root-mean-squared wave height is used for all the frequencies. The third method is the same as the second one except that the wave height corresponding to the energy of each component wave is used. Comparison with experimental data from previous authors shows the second method is the most adequate, giving reasonable agreement in both frequency-averaged reflection coefficients and reflected wave spectra.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.168-177
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• 2020

Many coastal engineering designs utilize empirical formulas containing the Equivalent Deep-water Wave Height (EDWH), which is normally given a priori. However, no studies have explicitly discussed a method for determining the EDWH and the resulting design wave heights (DEWH) under irregular wave conditions. Unfortunately, it has been the case in many design practices that the EDWH is incorrectly estimated by dividing the Shallow-water Wave Height (SWH) at the structural position with its corresponding shoaling coefficient of regular wave. The present study reexamines the relationship between the Shallow-water Wave Height (SWH) at the structural position and its corresponding EDWH. Then, a new procedure is proposed to facilitate the correct estimation of EDWH. In this procedure, the EDWH and DEWH are determined differently according to the wave propagation model used to estimate the SWH. For this, Goda's original method for nonlinear irregular wave deformation is extended to produce values for linear shoaling. Finally, exemplary calculations are performed to assess the possible errors caused by a misuse of the wave height calculation procedure. The relative errors with respect to the correct values could exceed 20%, potentially leading to a significant under-design of coastal or harbor structures in some cases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.83-95
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• 1990

It can be assumed that the ocean waves consist of many independent pure sinusoidal components which progress in arbitrary directions. To analyze irregular sea waves, both the spectrum method and the individual wave method have been used. The spectral approach is valid in the region where the water depth is deep and the linear property of velocity distribution is predominent, while the individual wave analysis method in the region where the water depth is shallow and the wave nonlinearity is significant. Therefore, to investigate the irregular wave transformation from the deep water to the shallow water region, it is necessary to relate the frequency spectrum which is estimated by the spectrum analysis method to the i oint probability distribution of wave height, period and direction affected by the boundary condition of the individual wave analysis method. It also becomes important to define the region where both methods can be applied. This study is a part of investigation to establish a systematic approach for analyzing the irregular wave transformation. The region where the spectral approach can be applied is discussed by earring out the experiments on the irregular wave transformation in the two-dimensional wave tank together with the numerical simulation. The applicability of the individual wave analysis method for predicting irregular wave transformation including wave shoaling and breaking and the relation between frequency spectrum and joint probability distribution of wave height and period are also investigated through the laboratory experiment and numerical simualtion.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.128-134
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• 2003

Numerical study on interactions of waves and currents has considerable practical interests in coastal and ocean engineering. And wave-current interactions strongly influence wave characteristics, current profiles, and forces on offshore structures. Presence of currents affects wave properties such as wave height and wave profiles. Furthermore, in case of the irregular waves, it is more complicated problem. The propose of present study, using the one-dimensional wave-current numerical model is based on the extended Boussinesq equation(Madsen, 1991) and an alternative form of wave-current dispersion relation(Mohiuddin, 1999, 2000) including wave action concept, is to simulate wave propagation in a current field including the irregular waves and discuss applicability of the model in a wave-current field.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.395-405
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• 1993

Wave grouping, which is one of the important characteristics of the irregular wave, is analyzed by the run-length theory and the SIWEH(Smoothed Instantaneous Wave Energy History) theory. After studying the basic properties of the regular wave group synthesized using the harmonic waves. the characteristics of the irregular wave group observed at the East sea is analyzed. It is concluded that for accurate analysis of irregular wave grouping concepts of run length and SIWEH as well as spectrum analysis should In examined.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.491-504
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• 2013

In this study, wave breakings over a shelf region are investigated under irregular wave conditions through laboratory experiments in a wave flume. Numerical simulations based on the Boussinesq-type equations are also conducted. The characteristics of breaking waves such as significant wave height, crest and trough heights, the mean water level and the stable wave height are obtained by analyzing laboratory measurements in detail. Obtained results are compared with those of the Boussinesq-type equations model. A very reasonable agreements is observed. The broken waves over a horizontal bottom asymptotically approach a stable wave height($H_{stable}$). In this study, the relative stable wave height is found as $H_{stable}/h{\fallingdotseq}0.56$ for irregular wave.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• v.20 no.1_2
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• pp.197-208
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• 2006

This paper deals with the exact solution of surface gravity waves in an ocean with irregular bed topography. In order to obtain water surface elevation and run-up of infra-gravity waves when the bed is either wavy or exponential, closed form solutions are obtained. Numerical computations indicate that when solitary wave or sinusoidal wave conditions are applied at the boundary, water surface elevation attains near Gaussian profile.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.13-21
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• 2016

Parametric pitch instability of a Deep Draft Semi-submersible platform (DDS) is investigated in irregular waves. Parametric pitch is a form of parametric instability, which occurs when parameters of a system vary with time and the variation satisfies a certain condition. In previous studies, analyzing of parametric instability is mainly limited to regular waves, whereas the realistic sea conditions are irregular waves. Besides, parametric instability also occurs in irregular waves in some experiments. This study predicts parametric pitch of a Deep Draft Semi-submersible platform in irregular waves. Heave motion of DDS is simulated by wave spectrum and response amplitude operator (RAO). Then Hill equation for DDS pitch motion in irregular waves is derived based on linear-wave theory. By using Bubnov-Galerkin approach to solve Hill equation, the corresponding stability chart is obtained. The differences between regular-waves stability chart and irregular-waves stability chart are compared. Then the sensitivity of wave parameters on DDS parametric pitch in irregular waves is discussed. Based on the discussion, some suggestions for the DDS design are proposed to avoid parametric pitch by choosing appropriate parameters. The results indicate that it's important and necessary to predict DDS parametric pitch in irregular waves during design process.