• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.574-591
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• 2001

This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.363-372
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• 2007

T-shirt has changed into advanced and stylish outwear by new paradigm, taste of consumer, awareness of recycling, spread of subculture, DIY culture, refusal of standardization and pursuit of high quality goods, etc. The purpose of this study was to analyze aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs that changed into diverse designs in world fashion college since 2000. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, fashion magazines and internet fashion site. Aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs were expressed in deconstruction, mixture, integration and imitation. And each of external expressions and internal meanings was as follows: First, deconstruction was expressed in partial cutwork and three dimensional texture by sewing and construction drape. It means breaking the conventional structure and break-ing the boundary of t-shirt and another item and possibility of multi-vocal analysis. Second, mixture was expressed in collage of diverse ornaments, diverse fabrics and diverse patterns. It means exceeding the limit of material, elaboratenes and high quality of handwork, reflection of self-identity, brand image, fashion trend, consumer's psychology and mind of experimentation and couture. Third, integration was expressed in extension of length, width, use and style. It means unification of functions, deconstruction of items and extension of meanings and images. Forth, imitation was expressed in stain of dye, irregular and ripped sign, cut out, rough warp, drawing and washing, etc. It means subculture, rarity value, monopolization, diversity, familiarity, yearning and uniqueness.