• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.202-209
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• 2021

Natural dyes are more expensive than synthetic dyes and the dyeing process, which is mainly immersion of dye, is complicated. For this reason, relatively small-scale production methods were predominant. However, awareness and interest in environmental sustainability is rising globally, and the use of synthetic dyes causes various environmental problems such as wastewater and CO₂ emission, so the consumption of natural dyes is increasing. In addition, interest in digital textile printing, an eco-friendly dyeing method that can produce products of various designs and uses less water, is growing. In this study, natural indigo dye (Indigofera tinctoria) was used as a raw material for Digital Textile Printing ink, and ¹⁴C (Biocarbon) present in it was measured to confirm whether it was derived from natural ingredients. The performance was confirmed by testing the pH, viscosity, electrical conductivity, surface tension, and particle size analysis of natural indigo ink. In addition, the performance of natural indigo DTP ink and printing fabric was evaluated by inspecting the change in color fastness and corresponding index substances before and after digital printing with natural indigo DTP ink on textiles. Through this, the possibility of commercialization of DTP ink and printing fabric using natural indigo was confirmed.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제28권
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• pp.109-136
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• 2022

본 연구에서는 조선 후기 기록화인 《평안감사향연도》 총 3점 중 <연광정연회도>를 분석하여 채색 재료를 규명했다. 포인트 위주의 분석으로 인해 발생 가능한 문제를 최소화하고자 우선 파장별 이미지를 촬영했다. 엑스선을 통해 먹, 금, 유·무기 안료를 분류했고, 적외선으로 먹과 구리계 안료를 파악했다. 초분광으로는 흑색, 청색, 녹색 재료 중에서 안료와 유기 염료를 구별해냈다. 색상별 선정 지점을 분석하여 백색(연백), 흑색(먹/쪽), 적색(연단+진사), 분홍색(염료), 자주색(염료), 갈색(산화철), 황색(석황/염료), 녹색(석록/석록+염료/쪽)과 청색(석청/연백+쪽/쪽), 자색(쪽+연지), 금색(금박) 등의 재료를 규명했다. 향후 파장별 라이브러리가 확보되면 더 효율적인 분석이 가능할 것으로 기대된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권2호
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• pp.201-215
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• 2014

This study explores the kinds and types of dyes used in the Joseon Dynasty. Some literature including "Sanga Yorok", "Gyuhap Chongseo", "Imwon Gyeonjeji" were reviewed for this purpose. The findings are as follows. The colors obtained from the dyes were divided into seven color series, such as red, yellow and orange, green, blue, purple, brown, gray and black. These are practical color categories differed from abstract five cardinal colors [五方色]. The diachronic dyes used during the Joseon Dynasty were safflower and Japanese alder bark for red, indigo leaves for blue, gromwell for purple, chestnut tree bark for brown. The representative dyes used in the late Joseon Dynasty were safflower and sappan wood for red, wild pear tree bark and Pentapetes phoenicea for yellow and orange, indigo leaves for blue, sappan wood and gromwell for purple, mulberry tree for brown, and Chinese ink for gray. Common dyes used both in Joseon and China were safflower and sappan wood for red, pagoda tree blossom for yellow, a combination of pagoda tree blossom (or Amur cork tree) and indigo leaves (or sediment) for green, indigo leavers or sediment for blue, sappan wood and hollyhock for purple, and a combination of indigo leaves and Galla Rhois for gray and black.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• 제50권1호
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• pp.31-45
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• 2022

After manufacturing the natural dyed actual size Hanji using 11 kinds of plant natural dyeing materials and 2 kinds of animal natural dyeing materials, the color characteristics and color change and color fastness after post-mordanting were compared and discussed. The hues of 13 types of natural dyed Hanji were black, PB, and RP, each with 1 type, YP with 3 types, and Y with 7 types. Among the natural dyeing materials, Chinese ink, indigo and Lac showed high color yield and color difference, and violet-root cromwell and gardenia seeds showed low color yield. The color fastness of Hanji dyed with turpentine diluted Ottchil, Pagoda tree seeds, Chinese ink and indigo was excellent, while that of gardenia seeds and violet-root cromwell were very poor. After post-mordanting of natural dyed Hanji with Al, Cu, and Fe mordants, the hue changes were show up the Alnus firma, clove, lac and cochineal. In addition, the color difference was very diverse and was overall the most biggest due to Fe mordant. After 72 hr. of UV irradiation on post-mordanting natural dyed Hanji, hue change was observed in 3 types and color fastness was improved in 8 types by post-mordanting. The Hue and color fastness are significantly different depending on the type of natural dying materials and post-mordants. Therefore, when dyeing Hanji with natural dyes, it is necessary to dye with sufficient knowledges and informations about the desired color and fastness.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.844-851
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• 2021

Due to the increase in consumers' interest about well-being, interest in eco-friendly products has been increasing due to the harmful effects of various harmful substances contained in textile products and environmental issues. As a result, natural dyes of less potential risk than synthetic dyes and digital textile printing(DTP) textile products with less environmental pollution are drawing attention. However, due to the lack of evaluation criteria for DTP textile products with natural ink and the nature of many colors are stacked layer by layer for dying, the need for simultaneous analysis is emerging. To evaluate whether the natural dye is derived from natural ingredients, the biocarbon content is analyzed. However, in the case of ink made using natural dyes and DTP textile products using natural ink, it is difficult to analyze the biocarbon content due to the limitation of the presence of a small amount of dye contained therein. In this study, we were shown the possibility of natural derived verification by cross-checking the analytes of natural dyes (Persicaria tinctoria, an indigo dye; Dactylopius coccus, a light red; and Curcum longa L., i.e., turmeric) and natural ink with HPLC-MS/MS. The coefficient of determination was 0.999 or higher, the limit of quantification was 0.647-3.664 ㎍/L and a %RSD of each indicator material was less than 10. Then, the extraction amount of natural dyes for five patterned fabrics was analyzed.

• 분석과학
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.283-292
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• 2016

범죄현장조사에 사용되는 인체에 유해할 수 있는 일반분말에 대한 대체수단으로 천연분말(오징어 먹물분말, 청대분말, 쌀분말)을 이용하여 비 다공성표면(유리, 플라스틱, 타일)상의 잠재지문을 현출(가시화)하였다. 현출된 잠재지문을 Automatic Fingerprint Identification System (AFIS)으로 분석한 특징점의 수를 흑색분말을 사용한 결과 특징점 수와 비교하였으며 또한 객관적이고 계량적인 평가방법의 개발을 위하여 각 분말로 가시화된 지문의 이미지를 농도계 이미지분석(densitometric image analysis)을 이용한 결과 값인 융선 피크의 면적값을 비교하였다. 천연분말들의 현출효과는 표면에 따라 다양하게 나타났다. 일반적으로 오징어 먹물분말은 대부분의 표면에서 좋은 현출을 보였으며 청대분말은 타일표면에서 그리고 쌀분말은 유리표면에서 최고의 현출을 보였다. 그러나 플라스틱 표면은 천연분말에 의한 지문현출이 가장 어려운 표면이었다. Field Emission Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM)를 이용한 이미지 분석에서 융선에 적절한 흡착력을 가지는 조건으로 천연분말 입자의 크기와 형태가 중요한 인자임을 확인할 수 있었다. 비록 기술적인 어려움으로 특징점의 수와 융선 피크의 면적값과의 상관관계를 볼 수는 없었으나 공평하고 객관적인 지문의 평가방법으로 기준 이미지의 사용을 통한 이미지 보정을 통하여 가능하리라고 사료된다. 저가의 저독성 천연분말은 추가적인 실험을 통하여 적절한 잠재지문 현출제로서의 가능성을 보일 것으로 사료된다.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제8권
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• pp.71-79
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• 2007

국립중앙박물관 보존과학팀에서는 역사관 한글실의 전시유물 교체에 활용하기 위해 봉인사(奉印寺) 부도탑신(浮屠塔身)에서 발견된 사리공(舍利孔)을 싸고 있었던 보자기인 사리기비단보자기(신수9431)에 대한 복제를 진행하였다. 바탕직물은 유물과 동일한 제직의 명주를 사용하였다. 푸른색을 내기 위해 쪽 앙금을 발효시켜 만든 쪽물, 누렇게 변색된 부분을 위해 오리나무열매로 식물염색하였고 묵서된 한글궁체는 먹으로 모사하였다.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제13권
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• pp.13-22
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• 2012

국립중앙박물관 소장 적의본과 폐슬본은 20세기 초에 제작된 것으로 모두 지본채색되어 있다. 두 본에 사용된 채색 안료 및 염료에 대한 비파괴분석을 통해 채색 재료를 확인하고자 하였다. 채색 안료의 성분분석에는 XRF를 이용하였다. 적의본의 안료 분석결과 백색은 연분, 흑색은 먹, 황색은 석황, 적색은 진사와 연단, 녹색은 구리와 비소화합물 또는 석청과 석황을 혼합하여 사용한 것으로 추정되며 기타색상으로 황동을 사용하였다. 폐슬본에 사용된 백색, 흑색, 황색, 녹색은 적의본에 사용된 안료와 동일하나 적색은 채색 안료에 차이를 보였다. 한편 적의본과 폐슬본에 사용된 청색은 안료의 종류를 확인이 어려우나 연분과 혼합하여 사용한 것으로 추정된다. 또한 적의본의 청색 한지에 대한 UV-Vis 분광분석 결과 인디고(쪽)으로 염색한 것으로 추정되었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

This study is for the construction of Cheo-Yongdance Costumeby historical research based on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom(樂學軌範). Through the production of Cheo-Yongdance Costume by historical research, it is examined and this study is expected that be a help of the right succession of a traditional costume. Cheo-Yongdance Costumeis draught to real size by comparing the size and picture suggested in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom. In the specialty of Cheoyong(處容) dance Costume in the drawing, the length of clothes was 152cm that is longer than the length of the excavated Danlyeong(團領) of Chosun Dynasty period. Width was 81.9cm that is very big and the width of Danlyeong is 11.7cm. The sleeve length of Hansam(汗衫) is 20O.60cm and it is one that attached Hansam to Jeogori(저고리). The material used for Cheoyong dance Costume is Dan(緞), Cho, Joo(紬), Red gold patterned brocade(紅金線). At the same part, and as the goal was differently used at the same clothing. As the methods of dyeing, the process of dyeing naturally is suggested. A gardenia seeds, indigo plant, and ink stick are used for the color of blue, red, yellow and black. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Danlyeong is required the technique of smoothing out wrinklesin case of attaching. Goon(裙) was made by making plaits below and attaching string for making form in the literature. Ui(衣), Chon-ui(天衣) and Goon(裙)'s Bang-sul(方膝) are drawn a Man-hwa Mun(蔓花紋) on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom by using the golden dyeing material. As the result of producing the clothe by using the recorded size in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom, it could be examine a pertinent dance clothing for expressing the dance performance with big motions.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.13-25
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• 2014

이 연구에서는 안동 봉정사 영산회괘불도에 대한 비파괴성분 분석과 현미경 관찰을 통해 괘불에 채색된 안료의 화학적 성분 및 채색 기법을 해석하였고 이를 바탕으로 괘불의 화기에 명시되어 있는 채색 재료의 명칭에 대한 화학적 특성을 규명하였다. 백색 안료는 연백, 황색 안료는 석황, 유기염료, 적색 안료는 진사/주, 연단, 대자, 적색 염료을 사용하였으며, 녹색 안료는 석록 또는 녹염동광, 청색 안료는 석청, 쪽, 흑색은 먹을 사용한 것으로 추정된다. 화기에 명시된 안료 이름은 주홍, 중청, 하엽, 황단, 황금 등으로 주홍은 진사(천연) 또는 주(인공), 중청은 석청, 하엽은 석록 또은 녹염동광, 황단은 석황, 황금은 금박인 것을 확인하였다.