• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.202-209
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• 2021

Natural dyes are more expensive than synthetic dyes and the dyeing process, which is mainly immersion of dye, is complicated. For this reason, relatively small-scale production methods were predominant. However, awareness and interest in environmental sustainability is rising globally, and the use of synthetic dyes causes various environmental problems such as wastewater and CO₂ emission, so the consumption of natural dyes is increasing. In addition, interest in digital textile printing, an eco-friendly dyeing method that can produce products of various designs and uses less water, is growing. In this study, natural indigo dye (Indigofera tinctoria) was used as a raw material for Digital Textile Printing ink, and ¹⁴C (Biocarbon) present in it was measured to confirm whether it was derived from natural ingredients. The performance was confirmed by testing the pH, viscosity, electrical conductivity, surface tension, and particle size analysis of natural indigo ink. In addition, the performance of natural indigo DTP ink and printing fabric was evaluated by inspecting the change in color fastness and corresponding index substances before and after digital printing with natural indigo DTP ink on textiles. Through this, the possibility of commercialization of DTP ink and printing fabric using natural indigo was confirmed.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.52-69
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• 2021

The transcriptions of Buddhist sutra in the Goryeo Dynasty are more elaborate and splendid than those of any other period and occupy a very important position in Korean bibliography. Among them, the transcriptions made on indigo paper show decorative features that represent the dignity and quality that nobles would have preferred. Particularly, during the Goryeo Dynasty, a large number of transcriptions were made on indigo paper, often in hand-scrolled and folded forms. If flexibility was not guaranteed, the hand-scrolled form caused inconvenience and damage when handling the transcription because of the structural limitations of the material that is rolled up and opened. It was possible to overcome these shortcomings by changing from the hand-scrolled to the folded form to obtain convenience and structural stability. The folded form of the transcription utilizes the same principle as the folding screen, so it is a structure that can be folded and unfolded, and it is made by connecting parts at regularly spaced intervals. No matter how small the transcription is, if it is made of thin paper, it is difficult to handle it and to maintain its shape and structure. For this reason, the folded transcription was usually made of thick paper to support the structure, and the cover was made thicker than the inner part to protect the contents. In other words, the forded form was generally manufactured to suit the characteristics of maintaining strength by making the paper thick. Because a large amount of indigo paper was needed to make this type of transcription, it is assumed that there were craftsmen who were in charge only of dark dyeing the papers. Usually, paper dyeing requires much more dye than silk dyeing, and dyeing dozens of times would be required to obtain the deep indigo color of the base of the transcription of Buddhist sutra in the Goryeo Dynasty. Unfortunately, there is no record of the Goryeo Dynasty's indigo blue paper manufacturing technique, and the craftsmen who made indigo paper no longer remain, so no one knows the exact method of making indigo paper. Recently, Hanji artisans, natural dyers, and conservators attempted to restore the Goryeo Dynasty's indigo paper, but the texture and deep colors found in the relics could not be reproduced. This study introduces the process of restoring indigo paper in the Goryeo Dynasty through collaboration between dyeing artisans, Hanji artisans, and conservators for conservation of the transcription of Buddhist sutra in the late Goryeo dynasty, yielding a suggested method of making indigo paper.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.143-154
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• 2018

This study was performed in order to suggest useful data for color planning of eco-friendly and sensible fashion products. Silk fabrics were dyed in combination with natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and were treated with four kinds of mordants after combination dyeing. Then, their colorimetric properties were evaluated. From these composite-dyed silk fabrics, color sensibilities and color preferences of green yellow (GY) color were evaluated among the female university students, and thus, the influences of colorimetric properties and color sensibilities on color preferences were analyzed. When the silk fabrics were dyed in the combination of natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and were treated without mordants, they turned green color when indigo 10 g/L was used, and blue-green when indigo 20 g/L was added. And when they were dyed in combination of natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and were treated with four kind of mordants after combination dyeing, they turned GY color in almost all cases. The color sensibilities of the GY silk fabrics with the combination dyeing of indigo and Japanese pagoda tree, were classified into three factors: pleasantness, gracefulness, and comfort. Color sensibility factors showed significant differences according to the concentration of indigo and the kinds of mordants. There were almost significant relationships between colorimetric properties and color sensibilities factors of compositely dyed GY silk fabrics. The color preferences of the GY fabrics, which were dyed in the combination of using natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and four kinds of mordants, were found to be predicted by the color sensibility in a regression model.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.155-160
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• 2018

In this study, the experiments for surface enhancement of silver mirror substrates were done, where we checked the characteristics of silver surface made by Tollen's and ${\gamma}$- irradiation method. The surface enhancement of Indigo carmine was analyzed by silver mirror and silver sol surfaces. The assignments of the vibrational bands shown in SERS spectra are given based on both literature and the semi-empirical calculations at the PM3 methods. We deduced that the adsorption orientation of Indigo carmine was little tilted perpendicular to the silver surfaces by using of the surface selection rules.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.8
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• pp.1146-1154
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the antimicrobial activity, antimutagenic and anticancer effects and dyeing properties of the fermented indigo extract. The methanol extract of fermented indigo showed a strong inhibition effect on Trich. mentagrophytes and antimutagenic activities against aflatoxin B$_1$(AFB$_1$) in the Ames test using Salmonella typhimurium TA 100. We also found in vitro anticancer effects of the methanol extract of fermented indigo and it was evaluated by using Clone M-3 mouse melanoma cells and A431 human epidermoid carcinoma cells and exerted little cytotoxity against 3T3-L1 embryo fibroblast cell. In the relationship between the K/S values of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with fermented indigo and dyeing repeating times, the K/S values became higher as the repeating times were increased. The K/S values were high when the fabrics were dyed at low temperture. The K/S values of cotton fabrics were higher than those of silk fabrics. Changes of surface color of silk fabrics were higher than those of cotton fabrics after water fastness test, laundering, irradiation and treatment of acidic and alkaline perspiration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.201-215
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• 2014

This study explores the kinds and types of dyes used in the Joseon Dynasty. Some literature including "Sanga Yorok", "Gyuhap Chongseo", "Imwon Gyeonjeji" were reviewed for this purpose. The findings are as follows. The colors obtained from the dyes were divided into seven color series, such as red, yellow and orange, green, blue, purple, brown, gray and black. These are practical color categories differed from abstract five cardinal colors [五方色]. The diachronic dyes used during the Joseon Dynasty were safflower and Japanese alder bark for red, indigo leaves for blue, gromwell for purple, chestnut tree bark for brown. The representative dyes used in the late Joseon Dynasty were safflower and sappan wood for red, wild pear tree bark and Pentapetes phoenicea for yellow and orange, indigo leaves for blue, sappan wood and gromwell for purple, mulberry tree for brown, and Chinese ink for gray. Common dyes used both in Joseon and China were safflower and sappan wood for red, pagoda tree blossom for yellow, a combination of pagoda tree blossom (or Amur cork tree) and indigo leaves (or sediment) for green, indigo leavers or sediment for blue, sappan wood and hollyhock for purple, and a combination of indigo leaves and Galla Rhois for gray and black.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.93-98
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• 2002

Effect of reducing agent sodium hydrosulfite on the natural indigo on the silk fabrics were examined to improve traditional dyeing method. K/S values of dyed fabrics was monitored with various dyeing temperature time, amount of dye and reducing agent. The dyeability of silk fabrics was improved by using reducing agent, sodium hydrosulfite; K/S value (7.20) was higher then that (1.09) of traditional method at the frist dyeing. Natural indigo dye extracted from dyed silk fabrics are composed of isomer, indigo (67.3%) and indirubin (32.5%). However, silk fabrics showed excellent anti-microbial activity regardless of the dyeing methods.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.19-27
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• 2004

The dyeing on cellulose fibers such as cotton and viscose viscose rayon was carried out by the use of solution extracted from natural fresh leaves of indigo plant under several dyeing conditions. The dyeing affinity of viscose rayon was higher than that of cotton. The total K/S value of dyed fabrics was considerably increased with repeated dyeings, while a dyeing time has a little influence on it. Both fibers were hardly dyed by indigo at $60^{\circ)$ and cotton was dyed better at $40^{\circ)$ than at $20^{\circ)$, but in viscose rayon, a little difference of total K/S was shown between $20^{\circ)$ and $40^{\circ)$. The color change of dyed fabric according to dyeing conditions was evaluated by the CIELAB color system. viscose rayon had a lower $b^*$ so that it looked bluer than cotton and when the celluose fibers were dyed by indigo plant at the lower temperature, the bluer it looked. By repeated dyeings the $b^*$value of dyed fabrics was much increased but the $a^*$ value was little influenced and in case of viscose rayon the change was considerable.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.12-17
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• 2007

In this study, we have investigated properties and behaviors of the indigo vat dyeings on synthetic fibers, namely PET and PTT/Spandex. In addition, indigo vat dyeing conditions such as dyeing temperature, dye concentration and pH were optimized. The finding results show that higher color strengths of indigo dyeings on the two types of applied fibers were obtained at $110^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$, respectively. Furthermore, acid leuco dyeings on the fiber substrates using acetic acid and formic acid show higher dye uptake with compared to alkali leuco counterparts.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.36-41
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• 2000

The indigo dyeing on silk was carried out by the use of fresh leaves juice of polygonum tinctorium. By means of spectroscopic analysis, it is proved that indoxyl are present in the juicese due to the enzymatic reducing of indican contained in the leaves. In case of fresh leaf dyeing, K/S value of dyed fabric was higher at 25$\^{C}$ than at 35$\^{C}$ of the dyeing temperature, its colour fastness aganist washing, perspiration and ligt ranged from 4 to 5 grade.