• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.87-114
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• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

• 복식
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• 제14권
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• pp.145-165
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• 1990

This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제46권3호
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• pp.94-113
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• 2013

동관왕묘(東關王廟)는 중국 촉(蜀)나라의 장수 관우(關羽)를 모신 사당이다. 이러한 사당이 우리나라에 세워지기 시작한 것은 1598년 정유재란 때부터이다. 당시 조선에 파병된 명나라 장수들은 관우의 힘으로 일본의 침략을 막아내길 염원하면서 그들의 주둔지마다 관왕묘를 세웠다. 임진왜란이 끝난 후 중국 명나라 황제와 조선의 국왕은 외세를 물리치려는 의지로 관왕묘를 세우고자 하였다. 1599년 8월 조선 정부는 '동관왕묘조성청' 이라는 관청을 임시로 설치하고 인력과 물력을 총동원하였다. 명나라 기술자의 감독 아래 연 2,400명의 조선 장인과 역군(役軍)들이 중국 제저우(解州) 관제묘(關帝廟)를 본으로 삼아 영건하여 3년 뒤인 1602년 봄에 동관왕묘를 완공하였다. 한 중 기술자가 협력하여 세웠기 때문에 관왕묘의 정전 건축과 내부 구조 및 조각상에는 양국의 양식이 반영되어 있다. 이를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 동관왕묘 내부에는 7기의 조각상이 서 있다. 관우상 1기는 금동상이며, 나머지 6기는 소조상 위에 채색한 것이다. 이들 조각상들은 1602년에 만들어졌고, 관우와 그를 배위하는 관평(關平) 주창(周倉) 조루(趙累) 왕보(王甫)는 삼국시대에 실존했던 인물들의 초상조각이었다. 하지만 그들의 복식은 관우를 추숭하던 당송대에 확립된 도상을 따르고 있었으며, 세부적으로는 명대적 요소와 조선적 배치가 절충되어 있었다. 이로 미루어 송대 이후 확산된 <의용무안왕(義勇武安王)> 판화의 도상이나 명나라 만력황제가 1593년 조영한 제저우 관제묘의 명대 관우 도상이 동관왕묘를 제작할 때 직접 영향을 끼쳤을 것으로 여겨진다. 하지만 현재 동관왕묘와 비교되는 중국 제저우 관제묘의 경우 건축과 조각상이 모두 청대 18~19세기에 중건된 것이기 때문에 직접적인 비교는 어렵다. 오히려 그렇기 때문에 동관왕묘의 조각상은 17세기 초 한 중 관왕묘 중에서 제작시기가 가장 이른 예로서 당시의 원형을 지니고 있다는 점, 한 중 기술자의 합작으로 규모가 매우 크다는 점, 금동으로 만든 관우상은 유일하다는 점, 문무 배위상을 각 1쌍씩 마주 배열하여 조선왕릉의 석인 배치와 친연성이 있다는 점 등 여러 면에서 미술사적 가치가 매우 크다고 할 수 있다.

• 한국엔터테인먼트산업학회논문지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.87-102
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• 2020

세계화 시대에 걸맞게 문화 원형을 보존한 콘텐츠 제작으로 가장 한국적인 이미지를 재고하고자 지역 문화가 살아 있는 문화예술교류를 적극적으로 진행하고 있다. 지방자치단체는 지역의 특성을 반영한 콘텐츠 개발을 위한 노력을 기울이기 시작했다. 이러한 노력은 지역 정체성을 강화하고 지역의 특성을 찾음으로써 지역을 대표하는 춤과 음악, 미술, 대중문화, 축제, 역사기록 등 다양한 문화적 요소를 원천으로 하였으며, 이는 자연스럽게 생성되어 창의성과 기술력을 바탕으로 고부가가치를 창출하는 그 지역의 대표브랜드이자 문화콘텐츠로 자리매김하였다. 본 연구자는 이러한 세계화 시대에 지역 문화자원의 원초적 근원을 찾고, 그에 대한 흔적을 보전하고자 서천지역을 중심으로 충청남도 무형문화재를 활용하였다. 그리고 우리나라 전통춤 움직임을 통해 서천공작부채춤 모형을 콘텐츠 개발하였다. 현시대 보존가치가 있는 충남 무형문화재 제21호 이광구 장인의 작품 서천공작부채는 둥근 모양 부채로 손으로 쥘 자루와 공작새 머리의 모양을 하고 있는 공예작품이다. 무형문화재인 공작부채 공예작품을 소재로 활용 제작된 다양한 예술 장르 개발이 문화상품으로 확장될 수 있을 것이다. 그리고 콘텐츠의 효과적인 전달을 위해서는 관객의 흥미를 유발할 수 있는 소재들이 잘 엮어져 있어야 하기 때문에 스토리텔링 또한 문화콘텐츠의 중요한 부분을 차지할 것이다. 본 연구는 역사 속에서 내려져 오면서 원형을 보존해온 충남 서천지역의 무형문화재 공작부채가 급속한 도시화와 현대화의 변화에도 지역의 관심을 받고 재조명되기 위해 개발된 지역춤 콘텐츠로 총 4개 연작으로 이루어져 있다. 대표적인 4개 연작의 형식은 독무, 2인(人)무, 군무, 창작으로 이루어지며 각 작품의 제목은 기본 형태의 춤 <서천공작부채춤>, 남·녀 사랑의 춤 <월·하·정·인>, 군무 형태의 춤 <바람의 멋>, 마지막으로 한국 창작 춤 <휘영>이다. 4개 연작의 공통점은 공작부채를 활용한 전통춤으로 각각의 춤은 형식이 다른 주제와 음악, 의상 및 무대 등을 통해 고유한 정서와 분위기를 보여주었다. 우리의 전통문화자원인 무형문화재를 활용해 다른 지역적과 차별화된 지역춤 콘텐츠 개발을 통해 콘텐츠로서 국제교류와 미니어처, 캐릭터 제작을 통해 문화상품으로서의 성장 가능성과 지역과 국가 경쟁력을 제고 하는데 기여할 수 있는 무한한 잠재력을 가지고 있음을 확인하였고 지역경제 활성화가 될 수 있도록 문화예술 현장뿐 아닌 국제교류를 통한 세계화 작업을 통해 대중이 접근하기 용이하도록 콘텐츠로 제작하여 지역 고유문화를 이용한 지역춤 외에도 다양한 콘텐츠로 개발 활용할 수 있음을 알 수 있었다. 지역 문화유산의 특성을 반영하여 재창조된 지역 춤 콘텐츠 개발이 앞으로도 현대화 작업으로 꾸준히 활성화될 수 있는 환경을 조성하고 우리의 전통문화자원인 무형문화재를 활용해 지역적 차별화라는 성장 가능성과 지역과 국가 경쟁력을 제고 하는데 기여 할 수 있는 무한한 잠재력을 가지고 있음을 연구를 통해 알 수 있었다. 이러한 연구를 통하여 세계화 작업을 위해 현존하는 문화자원을 보존하고 이를 대중이 접근하기 용이하도록 콘텐츠로 제작한다면 지역 고유문화를 이용한 지역춤 외에도 다양한 콘텐츠를 개발 활용할 수 있을 것이다.