• Title/Summary/Keyword: history of costumes

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Research on Children's Costumes of Dong Tribe

  • Zhang, Shunai;He, Xin
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.13 no.6
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2009
  • Dong Tribe is a populous nationality with brilliant civilization, they created their unique culture of costumes and accessories throughout the long river of history. And the children's costumes could be the florid feature of the splendid fashion of Dong Tribe because they reflect the sentimental tastes and consciousness of the nation. The children's costumes of Dong Tribe are classified as infants' garments and children's garibaldis by different ages, the garments are much more in kinds, fresher in colors and much complicated in shapes while comparing with the adults' garments. Furthermore, the children's hats, bibs and baby carriers are also the outstanding features in children's costumes of Dong Tribe.

The Expressive Effects of Queen Marie Antoinette's Costumes in the Movies

  • Kim, Ju-Ae;Trout, Barbara L.
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.12
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    • pp.2039-2050
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    • 2010
  • This study examines Queen Marie Antoinette's costumes in her portraits according to symbolic meanings and analyzes the expressive effects of Queen Marie Antoinette's costumes in the movies. The symbolic meanings through the costumes of Marie Antoinette expressed in the portraits shows the strong historical power of France in Europe along with the majestic appearance of the queen. A new perception of Marie Antoinette's taste can be found as she wore simple robe $\`{a}$ la l$\'{e}$vite in addition to extravagant costumes that demonstrated convention and position. The benevolent, extravagant, and splendid side of Marie Antoinette in history was emphasized; however, it also emphasized that she was a fashion leader with adventurous thinking and a liberal mind who accepted new things that transcend the era through this costume. The results of studying the expressive effects of Marie Antoinette's costumes as presented in the movies through the formative analysis of DeLong are as follows. The costumes expressed like this were observed through definer and the priority of observation, and it could be classified and analyzed in 4 expressive effects of excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy; in addition, it induced the visual maximization according to the flow of the movie. After the study analyzed movies about the queen through four expressive effects, the costumes were shown as excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy according to the flow of play.

A Study on Totemism Costume of Europe Local Festival -Based on the Symbolic Theory of C. G. Jung- (유럽의 지역축제에 나타난 토테미즘 복식 연구 -융의 상징이론을 중심으로-)

  • Uh, Kyung Jin;Ha, Ji Soo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.40 no.1
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2016
  • Traditional costumes have evolved while reflecting the social, cultural and psychological values of the era. Costumes gain meaning by being worn that also allows their various symbolic meanings to be derived. Costumes worn in festivals by specific societies and organizations have especially apparent symbolism pertaining to their purpose. Most countries have traditional festivals that embody the country's distinct culture, history and traditions. These festivals are acts of consciousness expressing a special meaning of the community. Costumes represent a glimpse of life and culture during a festival period; in addition, the costume's style, color elements and decorations are expressions of community values and a distinct symbolic mechanism. Totemism (a significant element of these festivals) has been passed down for many generations. The current costumes for Totemism are distinct (compared to normal festival costumes) and embody a more symbolic meaning. This study deduces the exaggerated style, the concealment and disguise of the human body, and the pursuit of pleasure expressed in the Totemism costumes of regional European festivals. The symbolization theories of C. G. Jung and an analysis of Totemism costumes allow an understanding of their existential significance, their role as the medium between consciousness and unconsciousness, their meaning of symbolic transcendental unity, and their meaning of giving consciousness to the mind.

The Study of Costumes Historical in the Chosun Dynasty - Focused on the Children's Costumes -

  • Kim, Jin
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.125-132
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    • 2006
  • This Study in order to review the history of our children's costumes, this study examined the socio-cultural background of Chosun dynasty and then, reviewed children's costumes comprehensively during that period according to their considerations, kinds, colors and patterns. In addition, this study explored the possibility of making use of the characteristics of children's costumes during Chosun dynasty, since it was perceived that if our children should be dressed in a traditional costume designed with some traditional costume characteristics and ornaments, our tradition would be enlivened in their life and spirit. It is results can be summed up as follows; Our traditional costumes consisted basically of Yu(襦), Go(袴). Sang(裳) and Po(袍) and additionally of Headgear(冠帽), Dae(帶), Hwa(靴) or Yi and Beosun, which must prove that the Korean people is cultural people. Our ancestors were dressed first in Yu(襦), Go(袴). Sang(裳) and Po(袍) to be supported by dae(帶). Our traditional costume style was 'front adjustment' or otherwise, left or right adjustment. Commoners' costumes would change after the series of foreign invasions and again during mid-late Chosun dynasty. During the period of King Sukjong, Jeogori was far shorter and smaller, while China was more diversified and voluminous enough to look like a jar.

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A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty (고려시대 사람들의 삶과 전통의상에 대한 고찰)

  • Choi Kyu-Seong
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.6 s.53
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    • pp.1060-1069
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    • 2004
  • We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period ($960{\sim}1392$), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in ${\ll}$Goryeosa 고려사${\gg}$. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).

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A Study of Modern Korean Costumes on Kisan Genre Painting (기산풍속화를 통하여 본 한국 근대복식 고찰)

  • Lee, Ho-Jung;Cho, Woo-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.4
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    • pp.15-31
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    • 2012
  • This study is intended to understand the styles, colors and color arrangements of costumes expressed on Kisan Kim Jun-geun's genre paintings of Joseon in the late 19th century. The paintings vary according to the status and gender of the person wearing the costume as well as the time period and different situations the person belongs to. Also, this study aims to examine the meaning and value of Kisan's paintings in terms of the history of Korean costumes. The result of this study are as follows: The basic and common attire for people of all status and class is the jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) for men and Banhoijang jeogori, chima(skirt) for women. Men wear Po(coat) that represents their status and age, and they put on various hats according to different weather conditions or work-skill even when in the same status and class. However, women wear the Baeja(vest), Durumagi(coat) and head-dresses when they are cold. Overall, the costume patterns and shapes that appear on Kisan's paintings show the same patterns and structures when compared to different data during the same time period. Thus, they provide useful information to help not only understand the changes of patterns and structures of costumes, but also the situations and emotions of the people of that time period. Moreover, it can be understood that various colors and color arrangements that reflect the situations and emotions of the late 19th century were used. This study that analyses the colors and color arrangements used in Kisan's genre paintings can provide the very basic and systematically arranged data to help understand the unique colors in Korea. These data can also provide important information to understand the use of dyes and pigments during that time. Therefore, Kisan's genre paintings are meaningful and valuable in terms of the history of Korean costumes for these are the data, from which we can review the costumes, colors and color arrangements in the years from 1890 to 1910.

The Study on the Tea Ceremony and the Costumes for the Tea Ceremony in Korea - Focusing on Royal Tea Ceremony - (우리나라의 다례와 다례에 관한 복식 - 궁중다례를 중심으로 -)

  • 서옥경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.5
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    • pp.59-70
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    • 2004
  • Tea has influenced the basis of Korean culture in history for a long time. The dissertation aims to establish the history of the costumes for the tea ceremony based upon historical data. During Thee Kingdom Period. there was a ceremony called Tea Offering Ceremony In Silla times, there were Tea Offering Ceremony and Royal Shrine Tea Ceremony: In Corea age, they served Tea Presenting Ceremony: In Chosun age. tea ceremony was a part of Tea Presenting and was held during official greeting feasts for foreign envoys and during feast ceremonies at the court. The costumes for the tea ceremony by period are as fellows : In Corea times, king and all the government officials wore official court attire for Enthronement Ceremony (Ka-Rye). For Official Guest Reception Ceremony (Bin-Rye), king wore official costume, but in case the envoy was not carrying an Official King's Letter, king wore Ordinary Costume. In Chosun times, both king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes (with golden dragon patterned segment) for Envoy Reception Tea Ceremony. In time of royal feast ceremony, king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes, while queen wore red purple silk robe (red purple embroidered segment). Chosun's royal court occasionally held tea ceremonyat royal feast ceremonies during which king also wore ordinary costume of winged silk crown and royal robe as a costume to attract good fortunes. In case of ceremonies for bad occasions, a tea ceremony was included in Royal Inquisition procedures (joong-hyung-ju-dae-eui) during which king wore simple costume (Pyun-Bok).

A Study of Green and Its Imagery in Western Costume

  • Park, Mi-Yeon;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.7 no.6
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    • pp.67-75
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    • 2003
  • In fashion history, the color "green" has been used from ancient to modern times constantly. Especially nowadays, the worth of green in fashion is becoming bigger than ever before to express the longing for pure nature. The purpose of this study is to define green's imageries in western costume history. For the basic about green, first of all, this study researched green of origin, effect and costumes in western history, then classified green's imageries. Green's imageries expressed in western costumes can be divided mainly into a 'nature imagery' and a 'religious divinity imagery'. Nature imagery was extended again into 'youth, devil, citizen and ecology image'. Youth image came from the luxurious feature of nature and it was extended again into 'innocent love, virgin and immaturity'. Religious divinity imagery has been represented in the ancient Egypt, Islam and Christian religion. In those cultures, green was considered as a sacred color of Osiris, Mahomet and Holy spirit.

A Study on the Theatra Costumes in the English Renaissance -Focusing on the Period of Queen Elizabeth I- (영국 르네상스 시대의 무대의상 연구 -엘리자베스 1세 시대를 중심으로-)

  • 배수정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.48
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    • pp.53-70
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    • 1999
  • The theatre costume in English Renaissance which is scarce in its historical materials can be inferred and imaginarily reconstructed from classifying it according to types of theatre costumes and considering its specific form in that age. The history of fashion could be also approached in the light of theatre costumes and it might be some help to the present theatre costume. Thus the purpose of this thesis is for contributing to the study of theatre costume by inferring the English Renaissance theatre costume from classifications and research of its pattern in detail. This thesis consists of the overview of the periodical background of English Renaissance and then analysis of the stage surroundings ar that time and classification of the theater costume acording to the types and finally inferences of the pattern of forms of the theatre costume. The theatre costume in English Renaissance can be divided into these group:(1) for foreigners such as Roman Turk Spanish and Jews (2) for supernatural beings such as a nymph god, goddess, ghosts, and witches(3) for professionals such as a clown, a clergyman. doctors and senators(4) for cast of animals such as a lion a bear and pigs. In the Elizabethan period theatre costumes were used together with Elizabethan costumes on the stage. Generally the theatre costumes in the age were typically made of very expensive materials and spectacles to the audience and compensating for the poor stage settings.

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A Study on the Larionov & Goncharova's Costumes for Arts Performance - Focused on Rayonism & Ballets Russes - (라리오노프와 곤챠로바의 공연 예술의상 연구 - 광선주의와 러시아 발레를 중심으로 -)

  • Park Yoon-Jeong;Yang Sook-Hi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.7 s.98
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    • pp.1-21
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costumes that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde an. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the style of art that Larionov and Goncharova introduced in the 20th century. The research method defined the formation and the progress of the development of the Rayonism centering the works of art by Larionov and Goncharova. Based on this method, larionov and Goncharova designed the set and the costumes for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing an. The result were as follows. First of all, Larionov's costumes of art were all manufactured based on the theme of nature and genesis. In other words, Larionov represented the sun as a humanistic god through the white night, the natural weather condition of northern Russia. His costumes also displayed the symbolic meaning of the personification of animals like birds and cats, which emphasized the importance of both nature and tradition. However, he used Rayonism expression when he designed costumes by applying the nature themes. On the other hand, Goncharova applied the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art lubok, and goldern cockerel or religious icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume design. her design displayed the Rayonism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, whic defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Larionov and Goncharova had one realize that Rayonism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Larionov and Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the 20th century in their costume designs.