• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.122-142
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• 2003

This study examines the meaning of retro phenomenon and its background of establishment that showed in the pop culture. And it finds out the retro phenomena in the domestic fashion trends. And it defines the characteristics of dress and its ornament in the retro phenomena that have shown in the Korean movies since 1998. By doing this, it examines the relationship between movie dress and street fashion while it compares the styles in the 50s 70s with the retro fashion that is currently emerging. The results of the study are as follows. First, the hippie look in the 60s represented a distinctive characteristic of how they rejected traditional lifestyles. Hippie's romantic femininity that showed in the movie of 'Oollala Sisters' received a spotlight as a necessary style in the modern fashion trend. Second, while the funk look in the 70s was a style of disorder and disgust, the movie gives it a possibility of fashion with a converted sense as a vanguard fashion while embracing the funk look. Third, the layered look in the 70s was expressed with layered items, while the current layered look emphasizes layered textiles as shown in the movie of 'Hae-Jeok Became The Disco King'. Fourth, the feminine look which was a symbol of restraint shows a mixed style with delicate feminine items as shown in the movies, 'The Harmonium In My Memory' and 'Ditto'. Fifth, the training look that has two stripes as shown in the movie 'the Friends' is considered as casual wear, which is functional and easy to move at the end of the 20th century. Finally, the romantic images of school look, as shown in the movies 'the Friends' and 'Hae-Jeok Became The Disco King', show a renewed mixed & unique style. This study has its significance in the sense that it verifies the fact that the movie dress does not show the characteristics of the works that momentarily passes the screen, but it becomes a foundation of the future fashion design. At this time that Korean movies are highly developing, a through study on the movie fashion will not only give a direction of future in the modern fashion, but it will also give a developing momentum in the Korean movie dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.69-85
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• 1995

Recently Southeast Asia has developed, so the world concerns about these regions. Ethnic fashion in 90's is mostly the influence of these regions' folk costume. The purpose of this study is to review aes-thetic aspects of folk costume in Southeast Asia, to investigate the influence on modern fashion and to predict the possibility of Asia fashion's adaption to modern fashion and to help the cre-ation of fashion design. First of all, the folk costume in Southeast Asia is classified drapery style and sarong style. These non-west clothing appeal to modern fashion as the oriental tranditional beauty. Ethnic fashion appeared in 1990's is attempted to be more complex and variable than the pre-vious ethnic fashion. Asian ethnic fashion influenced from folk costume of Southeast Asia is-wholly or party-the style, color, motif from each country's folk costume. And each country's unique art became the motive of the creative design. Specially, Aosai and Quan in Vietnam and sar-ong style in most Southeast Asia are important motives expressing minority's nostalgia. These are expressed in variable ways. Which are harmonized with latest other fashion trend : retro style and naturalism, Layered look, hippie look, unfinished sewing technic and manual technic are used one image matched the folk costume of Southeast Asia which is natural. Another characterstic in Asian ethnic fashion is a multi-ethnic. This harmonizes the different culture between the Orient and the West beyond the age and culture, and combines each folk costume. It is involved that the fashion can develop indivisual country's costumes mixed with her own unique characteristics and the fashion break the traditional concept and disagree with a certain coordinate rule and it indicates that the fashion shows various style, mood, volume and room as well as space. Like this recent Asian ethnic fashion comes to us in a strange favor. The people who are tired of traditional western civilization's outcome will receive a great tastes from the Asian ethnic fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.11-25
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• 2015

This study analyzed features in contemporary men's collection to provide data for characteristics of kitsch in men's collection. The research method was to see background of the concept of kitsch through the domestic and international publications, the Internet, paper. Five designers' collections that have characteristics of kitsch were selected. The range of collection is from the 2000 S/S to 2011 F/W in Men's collection. The results are as follows: kitsch characteristics could be classified by amusements, inappropriateness, satire. First, exaggerative amusements in men's collection appeared exaggerated form, large size, which is ridiculous at the same time. Infantile amusements represents the image of a pure concentric matching accessories such as toys to the children express. sensual amusements reveals the sexual instincts and desires and people can feel satisfaction through sensual amusements. Second, inappropriateness is characteristic of kitsch to escape from normal life. Clothing does not fit the body and destroyed the design or design of this feature appears. It looks clumsy and strange. Inappropriateness characteristic in men's collection can be divided into inadequate performance and sexual inappropriateness. Third, satire can be divided into resistant satire, imitative satire, and popular satire. Resistance satire with anti-social tendencies through their clothing is achieved by expressing their needs. It was affected by sub-culture like Hippie or Punk. Imitative satire is to imitate other culture, customs and race. It is to resolve complaints through the consumption of things in disparities of wealth and materialism in the society. Popular satire is to express emotions that are free using materials that can recycling like can, bottle or paper.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.14-34
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• 2015

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.17 no.9
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• pp.694-699
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• 2016

The study of popular music in Korea has been looked down on in terms of its academic value, which has led to the demise of research into this topic. Unlike classical music, all areas of study of pop music (history, theory, and performance) in Korea inevitably rely on curriculums and courses in foreign countries. This study focuses on the era of the Eighth U.S. Army when modern band music first arose in Korea to discuss the important role played by Shin Joong Hyun's Psychedelic music style. Shin Joong Hyun's new approach to arranging and harmonizing included the qualities of Western music, but kept the melody lines of our own traditional style. Shin Joong Hyun's music is still being played by today's musicians decades later and it definitely deserves to be praised for generations to come. Although this study only covers a limited portion of our pop music history, its purpose is to provide future generations of musicians with knowledge on the roots of our pop music culture.