• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.10
• /
• pp.151-171
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between clothes and hat with the works by Philip Treacy, the designer who raised hats to one of important fashion accessories. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat had an organic relationship, and a hat style was changed with formative elements of clothes. Clothes and hats by Philip Treacy were analysed in the aspects of Form, Color, Material, and Decoration. As a result, hats by Philip Treacy were mainly designed by the relationship between whole types without a closed line and showed geometric and formative forms, similarly harmonized with clothes. To highlight hats, the achromatic colors such as black and gray were used. Besides clothes and hats were coordinated by the same colors, but contrary colors were used to express a strong image. Felt or straw materials maily used to express a formative and fixed form were well matched with smooth, opaque, and lusterless materials such as wool. Also when transparent materials were used for hats, lace was used for clothes. A hat made of acrylic was matched with clothes made of glossy vinyl coating materials. Decoration was mainly removed but if used, feather decoration was added to clothes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.156-160
• /
• 2006

Poststructuralism gives us a clue to totally understand fashion design, which is in danger of difficulty and frivolous ambiguity caused by indiscreet creating and groundless interpretation of Postmodernism. In addition, it leads us to have a new viewpoint, which is freed from stereotyped past concepts and constraints, with regard to fashion design. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, present study employs a two-way research method: analysis of theories and analysis of contents. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design. In analysis of contents, 10 fashion designers are chosen who exhibit new works at every Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter collection. Including 20 works that those designers displayed at Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter from spring/summer 2001 through autumn/winter 2004-2005, a total of 200 works are analyzed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.20 no.2
• /
• pp.59-77
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study is to use data from studies of headdresses which might be helpful for creating new fashion styles. Headdresses in 2010 S/S-2015 S/S Paris haute couture collections were analyzed in the following categories: years, season, brand, type, color, material, and image. The types of headdresses were categorized as hat, hood, decorative or complex types. The hat type was elegant with a modern style, and coexisted with an exaggerated avant garde style. The hood type wrapped around the head with many examples having a distinctive sculpture on top of the knot. The decorative type varied dramatically in form and materials. The complex type was a blend of all the other types with the designer's individuality being outstanding. The characteristics of headdresses were revealed first, as an enlargement of the materials category, second, as an expression of dramatic forms, and third, as complete coordination of the creative fashion image. The headdresses illustrate the designer's creativity in producing a variety of images. Henceforth they will be important as fashion items and independent designs in fashion styling.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.29-38
• /
• 2006

The present study proposed to develop a Hanji hat that can protect the body from UV rays and be preferred by consumers. For this purpose, using Hanji dyed by ginkgo leaf extract, we manufactured Hats in 12 designs. The UV blocking rate was determined by putting the hats on a mannequin and measuring the quantity of UV rays penetrating through the hat. In addition, preference for each design was surveyed, and the hat most suitable for the purpose was selected. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The UV blocking rate of the manufactured Hanji hats was over 92% for UVA and 97% for UVB in all of the 12 hats. 2. Among the 12 designs, the UV blocking rate for UVA was highest in 'Design(b)' and 'Design(1)' $(P\leq0.05)$, and the UV blocking rate for UVB was identical in all the designs except 'Design(i)' and 'Design(g)' $(P\leq0.01)$. 3. The effect of UV blocking was highest on the nape of the neck; next, on the brow, the cheeks, the nose and the chin in that order. 4. According to the result of the survey of preference, simple designs such as 'Design(a), (b)' and 'Design(9)' were preferred. In addition, it was found that the design would affect the purchase of a hat marked with a UV blocking index (68%). 5. Based on the results of this research as presented above, 'Design(b)', which showed a high UV blocking effect and was highly preferred, was selected as the most suitable hat for the purpose of this research.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.123-138
• /
• 2019

The hat on the back of the upper jacket in Scythian, in of northern region surrounding the Black Sea, is described as a typical woolen hood, but until now has been overlooked in Korean costume studies. The purpose of this study is to analyze the hat on the upper jacket in Scythians and to recognize the meaning of the hat. A further purpose is to complete the basic framework of research concerning the Scythian costume by adding the part that was overlooked previously As for the research method, we collected literature, previous research results, the exhibition catalog, and the related artifacts for analysis. The literature was collected at the German Archaeological Research Institute. The analysis of artifacts was based on data collected by the researchers at the Heremitage Museum in Russia and data was taken by the staff of the Heremitage Museum. The conclusions of this study are as follows: Among the artifacts in the northern region of the Black Sea, it was perviously believed that Scythians status was signified by the wearing of hat-tops. Regardless of age, warriors and knights all wore upper jackets with hats, so it appears that the people who are active wore upper jackets with hats. On the other hand, it was assumed that the royal family, who wore ornamented, colorful, and decorative hats were not observed to have worn upper jackets with hats, and therefore did not require a hat. Therefore, it is considered that the hat in the Scythian society was a costume element emphasizing practicality, not necessarily a class symbol.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.6 no.4
• /
• pp.175-187
• /
• 1998

Hats are an important part of the fashion accessory business and Their importance is increasing year by year. Their importance is increasing not only as a means of accessory ut also as a means of sportswear due to the leisure-sports boom of the 90's. As hats are becoming more and more popular and ready-made, demand for comfortable and easy-fitting hats are increasing. Being an piece of apparel, fitting is very important factor in hats as well s in other forms of clothing. But many hat-wears complain of dissatisfaction of fitting of their hats. In addition to this, another problem is hat most hat designs have been flown in from the West without inspection of their fits. Designs to fit the Koran face and head have not been developed properly. This study is based on the need for the development of a well-fitting hat pattern design for Korean young women. After taking actual measurements of 170 young womens, a size system was organized for developing patterns for different size groups.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.9 no.2
• /
• pp.115-125
• /
• 2007

A hat is a general term for what human beings wear on their heads in order to protect them from the cold or heat, to be used for ornament, or to symbolize social position. A hat represents the position of a man who wears it, attitude toward the society, and faith for a religion for males. Since men's hats can create their image and uniqueness in casual wear from current fashion items, they are proposed as a fashion accessory item of designers each season. The purpose of this study is to review hats, which are part of costume, in a more analytic method. The research range of this study is hats for men in the upper class in the 17th to 18th centuries from the history of costume when diverse periodic and characteristic costume changes occurred. In the 17th to 18th centuries in the middle of the Chosun Dynasty, changes in costume occurred as the feudal society of the dynasty had been dissolved since the Japanese invasion in 1592. Political power was established in France as the Baroque Age began in the 17th century. Since European costume, especially women's costume led fashion in France, the country represented the age better than any other countries. Aristocratic costume in the Rococo Age of the 18th century was changed to completely different shape of costume after the French Revolution. In this regard, this age was deemed to be the most appropriate for the comparison or costume. Another purpose of this study is to review the common and different features of periodic factors that affect changes in costume by researching the hats of the two countries in the same age in order to understand relation between periodic characteristics and costume throughout history of costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.7
• /
• pp.103-116
• /
• 2010

Recently, the art of the Latin America Culture is being actively introduced into our country. Many concepts in the fashion field contain Latin American culture and their influence is growing. This present study, based on a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture, is an attempt to expand the expression of fashion design and explore the use of works of art in fashion. The case study is on Frida Kahlo (1907~1954), who was a Mexican woman painter who gives us some inspiration in contemporary fashion design. The scope of this case study investigates the Haute couture and the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2009 which were greatly influenced by Frida Kahlo and analyzes through the formative elements of dress, color, form, pattern and material. Frida Kahlo was a painter whose composition of surrealism held the world of life and death, pain and pleasure, love and parting, thought and freedom, and tradition and modern, etc. As a design inspiration, her influence reaches into accessories, and hairstyles, as well as the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter. This current study for the correct understanding of the new culture and the introduction of art into the fashion design might be helpful in making fashion a work of art and in extending the expression of the fashion design concept which is based on commercial art.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.111-121
• /
• 2004

The Mevelana sect is a spiritual Islamic group experiencing spiritual transaction with their god through a peculiar dancing as a form of religious ritual. The Mevelana, a sect of Islamic Sufism, has their head mosque in Konya in Turkey. Although Mevelana sect is regarded as heretic of Islam, it has exerted considerable influence on the Islamic religion through its peculiar religious worshiping form constituted in dancing and reciting poems. Nowadays, Turkey recognizes the Mevelana dancing as their precious cultural legacy of a long history, exerting public information efforts to give it for wider publicity of Turkey to the world. The Mevelana dress with ornament attired for the ritual dancing performance is regarded to symbolize a spiritual medium, which leads to conciliation with the eternity. The straight lines and curved line characteristic of the Mevelana dancer's trousers, skirt, jacket and such mirrors the image of the Orientals, which is in peculiar contrast with the white and gray colors of the dress with ornament. The impression of the spiritual Mevelana dressing in harmony with the dynamic dancing motion goes beyond mere a religious dressing. It is expressive of a graceful and sophisticated modern formative art, of which the mystic design gives an inspiration to the modern fashion. After Poiret, Islamic factors have emerged in the modern fashion. For instance, a hat with Arabic fashion lapel, a Fez hat of Turkish style, harem pants and such are still popular in the modern fashion. It seems probable that the Iraq War would far more activate the influence of Arabic culture to the modern fashion. By making an analysis on the religious background and formative characteristics of the Mevelana dressing, and by giving design examples on how the Mevelanan dressing has been applied to the modern fashion, this research suggests working out new designs by making a renewed application of their characteristics to the modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.7
• /
• pp.1038-1049
• /
• 2009

A hat is an important fashion accessory item for a total fashion coordination and the number of millineries is increasing in the current accessory market. This research provides basic information about the millinery in relation to consumer consumption behavior, preference, and satisfaction with hat products. A survey was conducted among 395 individuals age 20 and over who were quota sampled according to age and gender to investigate the differences between genders and different age groups. The collected data were statistically treated with the SPSS 12.0 program in terms of frequency, percentage, mean, standard error, cross tabulation, t-test, one-way ANOVA, and a Duncan-test. The results are as follows: 1. Respondents wear hats for ornamental purposes regardless of the season. They discard hats when they become out of style 2 to 3 years after the purchase. 2. In general, consumers prefer the baseball cap design among various hat product categories. Achromatic colors were the favorite color tone and the preferred material was woven cloth. 3. Consumers were most satisfied with colors and most dissatisfied with deformation after laundering. 4. There was a significant difference in preferences among the different age groups. Younger consumers were more concerned about individual image and style. Older consumers considered hats as a functional means such as protecting themselves from the sun. 5. There was a significant gender difference. Compared to males, female consumers were more concerned about the quality of sewing and colorfastness than male consumers.