• Title/Summary/Keyword: hand-craftsmanship

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Couture-like Design in Modern Fashion (현대패션에 나타난 쿠튀르적 디자인)

  • Ko, Hyun-Zin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.7
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    • pp.164-179
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    • 2008
  • The Purposes of this study are to analyze the couture-like design characteristics expressed in modern fashion and to grasp its sociocultural meaning. For this, the documentary study and practical case study have been executed. Fashion writings and visual sources in Gap Pret-a-porter Collection, www.style.com, www.firstviewkorea.com are used. The results are as follows. First, couture ran be featured as a luxurious made-to-order design for individual clients with high quality fabrics, hand-craftsmanship, painstakingly perfect details and finishing. It is valued on authentic originality, uniqueness, aestheticism, and luxury. As the relationship between couture and mass fashion has changed, there appeared not only traditional couture for few privileged people, but also demi-couture which bridges the gap between luxurious couture and pret-a-porter. Second, couture-like designs in modern fashion are classified as (1)the adaption of house archive (2)retro with couture-like silhouette (3)hand-craftsmanship in details and finishing (4)individualization for only one client. They have sociocultural meanings, which are the reaction to the crisis of originality, new luxury for differentiation, the pursuit of new individualism thinking. Ultimately, it ran be thought that couture-like design in modern fashion results from the mutual needs between elitism fashion designer struggling in the hegemony of originality and reproduction, and modern consumer seeking for luxury, individualization.

Joined in the government-owned handicraft industry during the Joseon Dynasty Job type and role (조선시대 관영수공업에서 입사장(入絲匠)의 직무 유형과 역할)

  • KIM, Serine
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.54 no.2
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    • pp.216-239
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    • 2021
  • Inlay (入絲), a poetic technique of digging grooves in the surface of crafts and decorating them with metal materials, was used throughout the royal daily routines, ceremonies and government officials of the Joseon Dynasty. The government-owned handicraft industry in the Joseon Dynasty was composed of craftsmen belonging to central and local government offices and was operated mainly by government-owned craftsmen. The inlay craftsman was transferred to the central government office and was in charge of inlay poetry for crafts. The current records of Korean inlay craftsmen are concentrated in the state-owned handicraft industry. In the state-owned handicraft industry, the government offices of inlay craftsmen can be divided into Kongjo (工造), Sangeuiwon (尙衣院), and the military. Here the election of a temporary government office for airspace is added. The government offices and military inlay craftsmen who use inlay crafts are assigned, and the inlay craftsmen are placed separately in the temporary office where the fine division of labor is developed. It can be made by utilizing craftsmen. The operation of these production systems was indispensable in pre-modern Korean society, where crafts had to be produced by hand. In this paper, we investigated the roles and job types of craftsmen in the state-owned handicraft industry during the Joseon Dynasty, focusing on inlay craftsmen. Although the details applied to the characteristics and materials of the field, labor supply and demand, etc. are different, Korea pursued crafts for various purposes through craftsmanship within the framework of the basic state-owned handicraft policy . The institutional equipment for implementation was almost common. We believe that adding and analyzing some literature records and relics will help us to study the crafts of the Joseon era in more detail.

A Study on the Relationship Methods of Oksuki (『옥수기』의 남녀결연담 연구)

  • Kwon, KyongSoon
    • (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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    • no.67
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    • pp.69-104
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    • 2017
  • This paper examines the aspect of the novel which appeared in the union of the male and female relationship of "OkSuki", one of the novels of the 19th century. "Oksuki" is a work focusing on the relationship between men and women. It takes a narrative structure based on the relationship. It shows various aspects of the relationship through the structure in which the pluralities of plural persons are repeated. Other events and illustrations, except for the talk, are both an occasion of the alliance and an auxiliary role. At the beginning of the work, the main character's parents are described in detail.By arranging the prophecies related to the relationship between the protagonist and the brothers, it suggests that subsequent narratives will flow into the center of the relationship. The male characters that make up the alliance are characteristically trained and have a good taste, and the Caines are colorfully colored. It is believed that the marriage pattern faithfully follows the medieval status order. The reason why the figure of the person who becomes his wife and the person of the concubine are set differently is because the image of the wife and the concubine are different from each other ideally. The characters who are going to be hungry are emphasized on the clause, efficacy, knowledge, and inner peace, and are actively involved in. On the other hand, conciliatory characters emphasize talent and craftsmanship, and their role is reduced after marriage. The wife is a person who has both Confucian culture and knowledge and is able to care for her husband and family well. Concultation is shaped as a person who can enjoy joyful life and emphasize more affection in relation with his wife.

Technique and Type of Line Expression in Goryeo Dynasty Metal Craft Engraving (고려시대 금속공예 선각(線刻)기법의 기술과 유형)

  • Kim, Serine
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.53 no.3
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    • pp.24-41
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    • 2020
  • The engraved line expression in metal crafts is a detailed technique of carving or decorating metal surfaces. This technique engraves a line using a tool on the surface of a metal craft. This technique was used extensively in articles made of various metal materials during the Goryeo Dynasty, and the range of patterns that could be expressed and the width of users was wide. In this paper, based on relics and literature, the concept of line representation of this engraving technique used in the metal crafts of the Goryeo Dynasty and the perceptions and terms of the Goryeo Dynasty were examined. In addition, the users engaged in this craft and the specific patterns and patterns of decoration were reviewed. Through these means, it was possible to confirm various aspects of a technique that was thought previously to involve just simple expression of lines using tools. In addition, through the literature, Geumseokmun Gate, and relics currently being transmitted, it was possible to confirm the utilization patterns of techniques used in various types of objects. Various uses have led to the combination with other metal craft techniques that were popular at the time, and while utilizing unique characteristics of the techniques, this maximized the molding of various patterns. In the meantime, it is true that the intaglio technique in metal crafts has not received much attention compared to the decoration techniques of other metal crafts, such as inlay, embossing, and openwork techniques in which decorative effects are maximized due to the recognition that the technique was used so widely in relics. However, the universality of the technique is premised on its wide use across all eras. As such, it was used in metal craft relics that reflect the various cultural characteristics of Korea and various cultural aspects that are currently passed down. On the one hand, technology has been passed down as a form of intangible heritage that embodies a longstanding craft culture which continues to the present in the fields of sculpture and intangible cultural properties. As such, the universality of Seongak contains many cultural meanings. In addition, the uniqueness of the technique is distinct, and it is deeply related to Goryeo, who was in charge of the use of technology and craftsmanship of the Joseon Dynasty and the metal craft technology that is currently handed down. I think research on future techniques should be continued in depth.

A Study on Traditional Ideology and the 'Tradition' of the Theatre company Minye in 1970s (1970년대 전통 이념과 극단 민예극장의 '전통')

  • Kim, Ki-Ran
    • Journal of Popular Narrative
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    • v.26 no.3
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    • pp.45-86
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    • 2020
  • In this article, the "modernization of the tradition" constructed on the cultural politics and the way in which it appropriated in the korean theatre in the 1970s were analyzed. It is trying to reveal its implications. It is also a work to critically review the aspects of self-censorship in the korean theatre in the 70s. To that end, we looked at the theatre company Minye Theatre, which preoccupied the traditional discussions in the 1970s by creating national dramas. Until now, the evaluation of the theatre company Minye Theatre in the 1970s has focused on the achievement on the directing of Heo Gyu, who promoted the succession and transformation of tradition. However, the traditional ideology constructed in the state-led cultural politics in the 70s and the way in which it was operated cannot be evaluated only in terms of artistic achievement. The ideology of tradition is selected according to the selective criteria of the subject to appropriate tradition. What's important is that certain objects are excluded, discarded, re-elected, re-interpreted and re-recognized in the selection process of selected traditional ideology. This is the situation in the '70s, when tradition was constantly re-recognized amid differences between the decadent and the disorder that were then designated as non-cultural, and led to a new way of appropriate. The nation-led traditional discussion of the '70s legalized the tradition with stable values, one of the its way was the national literary and artistic support. Under the banner of modernization of tradition, theatre company Minye preoccupied the discussions on the tradition and presented folk drama as a new theatre. As an alternative to the crisis of korean theatre at the time, the Minye chose the method of inheriting and transforming tradition. It is noteworthy that Heo Gyu, the representative director of the theatre company Minye, recognized the succession and transformation of traditional performance as both a calling and an experiment. For Heo Gyu, tradition was accepted as an irresistible stable value and an unquestionable calling, and as a result, his performance, filled with excessive traditional practices, became overambitious, especially when it failed to reflect the present-here reality, the repeated use of traditional expression tools resulted in skilled craftsmanship, not artistic creation. The traditional ideology of the 70s unfolds in a new aspect of appropriation in the 80s. In 1986, Son Jin-Cheok, Kim Seong-nyeo, and Yoon Mun-sik, who were key members of the theatre company Minye Theatre, left the theatre to create the theatre company Michu, and secured popularity through Madangnori(popular folk yard theatre). Son Jin-Cheok's Madangnori is overbearing through satire and humor. It gained popularity by criticizing and mocking state power. On the other hand, not only the form of traditional performance, but also the university-centered Madanggeuk movement, which appropriated on the spirit of resistance from the people to its traditional values, has rapidly grown. In the field of traditional discussions of the 70s, Madanggeuk was self-born through appropriation in which the spirit of resistance of the people is used as a traditional value. Madanggeuk as well as Michu that achieved the popularization of Madangnori cannot be discussed solely by the artistic achievement of the modernization of tradition. Critics of korean theatre in response to state-led traditional discussions in the 70s was focused only on the qualitative achievement of performing arts based on artistry. I am very sorry for that. As a result, the popular resistance of the Madanggeuk and the Madangnori were established in the 'difference' with the traditions of the theatre company Minye Theatre. Theatre company Minye Theatre was an opportunity for the modernization of tradition, but the fact that it did not continuously produce significant differences. This is the meaning and limitation of the "tradition" of the theatre company Minye Theatre in the history of korean theatre in the 1970s.