• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.15-33
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• 2011

The late $19^{th}$ and early $20^{th}$ centuries of Korea were the times when the Confucianism (牲理學) ideology was shaken heavily under the influences of modernism and capitalism by Western and Japanese military and political-economic forces. Under such circumstances, alteration of clothing was much influenced by ideologies than changes in social structure or technological advance. In this study, an ideology was defined as "the force which drives people into a particular social order". Ideologies were postulated as an ongoing process of socialization with dialectic features rather than being a static state. Comparative analyses on conflict structures and different clothing patterns symbolizing the ideologies of the Ruling (支配) and the Opposition (對抗) were conducted. Investigating dresses as representations of ideologies is to reconsider the notion of dichotomous confrontation between the conservatives (守舊派) and the progressives (開化派) and a recognition of Koreans' passively accepting modernity during the Japanese occupation. This may also have contributed to enlightening Koreans about modernization. Here are the results. First, the theoretical review found that ideologies were represented by not only symbols of discourse, but also dresses, and that dresses embodied both physical and conceptual systems presenting differences between ideologies and their natures, Second, during the late 19th century Korea, conflict between conservatives' Hanbok (韓服) and progressives' Western suits (洋服) was found. Moderate progressives showed their identity by "Colored Clothing" (深色衣), and radical progressives by black suits with short hair (黑衣斷髮) or by western suits (洋服). The ultimate goal of both parties was a "Modern Nation". With these efforts, pale jade green coats and traditional hats symbolizing the nobleman class was eliminated within 30 years from 1880 to 1910, and then simple robes and short hair emerged. However, the powerful Japanese army had taken over the hegemony of East Asia, and Korea was sharply divided into modernization and pro-Japanese camps. Third, during the time of Japanese colonial rule, the dress codes having set by the modernization policies during the time of enlightenment were abandoned and colonial uniforms for the colonial system was meticulously introduced. During this period, Western or Japanese-style uniforms were the symbol of the ruling ideology. In the mean time, Hanbok, particularly "White Clothing (白衣)", emerged as a representation of the opposition ideology. However, due to Japan's coercive power and strong zeal for "Great orient (大東亞)", white clothing remained as a mere symbol. Meanwhile, Reformists (實力養成論者) movement toward improving quality of life followed a similar path of the Japanese policies and was eventually incorporated into the ruling ideology. Fourth, dresses as representations of ruling ideologies were enforced by organizational powers, such as organizations and laws, and binding policies, and changes in such dresses were more significant when the ruling ideologies were stronger. Clothing of the opposition ideology was expressed as an aggregation of public consciousness. During the period, the subjects of ruling ideology and the objects who were granted modernization benefits were different although their drives for colored clothing with short hair (色衣斷髮) for modernization were similar.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.83-94
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• 2018

This study surveyed 255 college students enrolled in beauty contract departments located in Seoul(5 schools) and Gyeonggido(6 schools) to investigate their admission support procedure and educational satisfaction. The study found as follows; Data collection was performed from March 25 to May 30, 2018 using SPSS WIN 21.0 for their statistical processing. With respect to data analysis, first, frequency analysis was conducted to look at the general characteristics of the subjects. Second, the admission support procedure of beauty contract department was investigated and cross analysis was performed to see if there was any change according to the subjects' general characteristics. As a result of looking at the awareness on department, 89% were found to be aware of the contract department system. As for their motivation to applying for the department, the largest reasons were found to obtain a degree and to become a hair designer within a short period of time. The most frequent route of application was a recommendation by their high school teachers. The highest priority consideration in choosing a department was the brand awareness of an associated industrial entity. With respect to the complementation education in curriculum, practical technique related to the major was found the highest. 66.7% said they would recommend the department when it comes to the intention to recommend the department. 24.0% were found satisfied with the education regarding educational satisfaction. Therefore, in order to improve the educational satisfaction of the contract department, it is necessary to acquire knowledge of the field technique and practical salon education.