• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.756-776
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• 2016

The concern over beauty is increasing as the importance of appearance is becoming more prominent. Accordingly, the importance of studying beauty is now apparent. The purpose of this study is to analyze existing beauty-related research in order to assess current trends in beauty-related studies. Materials were collected from the master's theses and academic journals from 1997 through 2016. In addition, 81 beauty-related papers were selected and classified into 3 categories according to their subjects and content. There were 19 hair attitude papers, 52 papers about make-up and skincare, and 10 papers on cosmetic surgery. Each type was divided into detailed themes according to the study theme and its number was grasped. Consequently it was classified into 9 themes about the attitude toward hair and the relevant variable study, 10 themes about the attitude toward hair style and relevant variable study, 24 themes about the make-up attitude and relevant variable study, 28 themes about the skin care attitude and relevant variable study, and 10 themes about the cosmetic surgery attitude and relevant variable study. The results revealed that academic concern about beauty sharply increased starting in 2005. Moreover, we determined that the methodologies used in hair and make-up studies were sound and detailed, while cosmetic surgery studies were more inconsistent and poorly analyzed. Thus cosmetic surgery should be further researched in a more standardized and thorough manner. This review of attitudes toward beauty will serve as a basis for follow-up studies that employ meta-analyses to draw more quantitative conclusions by aggregating many more study results.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.16-37
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• 1988

A new quaternary ammonium compound, hydrolyzed ginseng-sapoin quaternary (HGSQ), from hydrolyzed Korean ginseng-saponin and 2, 3-epoxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride has been developed as a conditioning agent for hair care products. This structure has the hydrophilic group from the introduced cationic and the hydrophobic group from the aglycone of ginseng saponin. Its properties: surface tension, conductivity, critical micelle concentration, eye irritation, sorption onto hair, force reduction (%) for 20% extension and moisture retention effect comparing with the commercial standards. Also half-head tests of HGSQ-containing shampoo were carried out to compare the conditioning effects in shampoos.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.133-139
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• 2018

Chemically damaged hair is vulnerable to external stimuli in daily life due to the weakened physical properties of the hair strand itself. The purpose of this work was to determine whether chemical conjugation between hair keratin proteins restores tensile strength and thus results inpreventing further deterioration under repeated combing. A model damaged hair tress was produced by a typical perm-process. Then, it was internally crosslinked by the bifunctional crosslinker (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (APTES), via both silane coupling and carbodiimide chemistry. Physical properties, including tensile strength, Young's modulus, and plateau stress, were measured to verify the effect of internal crosslinking, and the existence of crosslinking was verified by Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy. The degrees of hair breakage and split ends were evaluated by repeated combing-drying tests. Physical properties of chemically damaged hair were restored by internal crosslinking. Successful crosslinking of APTES via both silane coupling and carbodiimide chemistry was verified by FT-IR spectra. Prevention of breakage and split ends after repeated combing with heat was observed. Human hair can be weakened by chemical damage including perm-processing, so restoring such properties is a major issue in the hair care industry. This work shows that internal crosslinking of damaged hair via chemical conjugation would be a potent method to restore the healthy hair.

• Korea Journal of Cosmetic Science
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2019

Caffeine is widely used in cosmetics and hair care products. Although its efficacy in stimulating hair growth has been confirmed in recent studies, its mechanism of action remains unelucidated. The present study aimed to determine the effects of caffeine on hair growth, with a focus on intracellular hair follicle activity. Experiments included in vitro and ex vivo tests, and a clinical study. Caffeine enhanced the cellular activity and potassium channel opening. It also promoted human hair follicle elongation. Immunohistochemical staining showed that the Ki-67 signal was significantly higher in cells treated with caffeine. These efficacies of caffeine were comprehensively demonstrated in clinical results, wherein caffeine-containing shampoo improved hair density after 24 weeks of testing. Collectively, the results of this study demonstrated that caffeine promoted hair growth and inhibited the progression of hair loss by enhancing intracellular activity of hair follicles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2020

To prevent loss of hair protein during hair washing process by water through, a shield coating the pathway of water molecules was studied. Hydrophobic virgin hair, hydrophilic hair, which was damaged only methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) on the surface, and a repaired hair re-bound 18-MEA, were prepared and water mass changes by as heat were measured. Results showed that hydrophobic hairs followed bi-exponential function of 39 s and 151 s and other two hairs exhibited fast- and mono-exponential decay with 83 s, reflecting the extraction of water molecules without any resistance at the hydrophobic surface. On the assumption that hydrophobic surface resists an extraction of protein in water during the wash, the protein concentrations were compared from the hair of hydrophobic and hydrophilic surface. The extracted hair proteins were 179 and 148 ㎍/mL from the hair coated with hydrophilic polyethylene glycol (PEG) and hydrophobic polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), respectively. This study suggested that hydrophobic coating on the hair surface could be used to prevent protein loss in wash, represented by LFM. In conclusion, this research provides some useful information to contribute to the development of hair washing products that can prevent protein loss in the cleaning process by granting hydrophobic coatings.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2007

This study was aimed at giving help to the people intending to change their own hair color design and also providing the guide line to the cosmetic circles for developing new hair color design and promoting sales by statistically analyzing seasonal changes of hair colors puplished on women's magazines(Vogue Korea, Estetica Korea, Woman Chosun, Ce.ci) from 2003 to 2006. The researching methods were as follows; (1) hair colors published on women's magazines from september 2003 to August 2006 were measured by N.C.S. color reader(4 magazines $\times$10 main hair colors/magazine $\times$ 12 months $\times$ 3 years = 1,440 colors). (2) N.C.S. tone is made of percentage, so measured values and chromas were statistically analyzed by mean, standard deviation, and seasonal deferences were statistically analyzed by t-test and specified on high significant values. But hues were not made of percentage, so these were statistically analyzed by cross tabulation analysis, $x^2$ -test and specified on high significant values. These all had been analyzed by SPSS program(ver. 11.0). The results were as follows; (1) Usually seasonal changes of hair values were significant, specially in foreign licensed magazines, and bright values appeared in S/S and dark values in F/W. (2) Seasonal changes of hair hues were significant only on foreign women's magazines. Therefore seasonal changes of korean hair colors were not significant compared by foreign hair colors because of hardness of color changes of dark black hair and hair damages by hair tints and bleaches and trends of well being and hair care. But hair color changes have been developed gradually and will developed furthermore. So korean hair cosmetic circles have to present hair color trends deferenciated by seasons. And S/S hair values have to be brignt and F/W have to be dark. And new seasonal hair hues matched by korean have to be developed and presented.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.241-251
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• 2010

In recent years, the number of people suffering from depression due to hair loss has been increasing. The treatment methods such as clinical pathology and vanity surgery have been developed. There are therapies and materials for hair growth promotion and hair loss prevention. But the effectiveness of such therapies and materials is not fully evaluated and some side-effects have been reported. In this study, microneedle therapy using very thin and delicate needles promotes absorption of drug. During this therapy, the microneedle makes micro holes that help absorbion of drugs into the scalp. In this study, absorbion of fermented soybean were evaluated. The ingredient has antioxidant, antiandrogen, and antithrombosis effect for alopecia. The fermented soybean is more effective for complex hair loss when used with microneedle. It is because of the microneedle's excellent drug delivery system (DDS). This therapy that increases the absorption of fermented soybean is a very useful scalp care method which prevents, treats and controls alopecia. This microneedle therapy using fermented soybean is an advanced technology for scalp care.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.185-198
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• 2019

Human tissue undergoes aging by the oxidant damage via structural change and its physical properties. The skin aging process is well known and many evaluations have been conducted. However, studies on hair aging were relatively few and thus care for aging hair is difficult. This study aims to fabricate an aging hair and identify anti-aging effect with known ingredient in anti-aging. First of all, physical properties of aging hair of age 60s by physiologically intrinsic factors were compared to those of the hair made by various extrinsic factors such as several chemical reactions and iteration numbers of the treatments. The extrinsic aging hair of this study relates to the less amount of lipid and to the hair of perm treated once accordingly, wherein several physical properties, preferably comprise roughness and tensile strength, present a novel concept of the intrinsic aging hair. The penetration of peptide into the aging hair was leading the extrinsic hair towards more structurally directed a younger hair. In addition to the structural change, the penetration of the peptide enhanced texture and tensile strength of the aging hair. These patterns have been also found in addition of propolis. For the first time, these qualitative studies exhibit that indeed our extrinsic aging hair well describes the anti-aging efficacy as a receptor for a cross-linker and the ingredients of human hair.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.139-145
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• 2012

There is a unique type of fatty acid in the hair surface. 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) is an unusual anteiso fatty acid covalently linked to the outermost surface of hair cuticle. A layer of 18-MEA is located in the upper ${\beta}$-layer of the CMC that is responsible for the low surface energy and low friction resistance of the hair's outer surface. The high mobility of 18-MEA molecule facilitates spreading of extraneous lipid by decreasing interfacial shear strength. In this study, we introduced N-hydroxyl succinimidyl ester functional group to the one end of C10 - 40 isoalkyl acid for regenerating hair surface with covalently bound fatty acid layer. The re-hydrophobicization of hair surface has been investigated by contact angle measurement. The inner moisture content of hair at different levels of humidity (40, 55, 70 %RH) was measured by electric moisture analyzer. Treatment with Hydroxysuccinimidyl C10 - 40 Isoalkyl Acidate (HCIA) was supposed to make hair surface smoother by filling the cracks between cuticles with covalently bound fatty acid monomolecular layer like cuticle glue. This glue effect was also confirmed with line profile of AFM images. Therefore, the moisture and structural components of inner hair were not easily flown out and the optimum moisture content could be kept constantly though the outside humidity level was changed. The lateral force microscopy (LFM) by using atomic force microscope showed that the friction force of hair surface treated with HCIA was decreased. It also showed the constantly sustained friction value even after shampooing repeated 15 times.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.9 no.10
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• pp.415-421
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the difference of scalp and hair care behaviors according to DiSC behaviors of beauty consumer. For the study, 251 questionnaires were analyzed using the SPSS v.18.0 statistical package program. First, there was statistically significant difference in psychological stability, favorable image, and maintaining state of scalp and hair management according to DiSC behavior type. In case of Shin Jung - hyung (C), psychological stability, Positive images, and maintaining good condition. Second, DiSC and hair management behaviors according to DiSC behaviors showed statistically significant difference in state cognition management and product use management. In the case of cognition type (C) and social type (I) Product use management. The results of this study suggest that hair management awareness and behavior, which is dependent on DiSC behaviors of consumers, are provided as basic data for corporate marketing strategy.