• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.18-26
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• 2012

In this work, colorants extraction process from gromwell was studied for making powder form of colorants by solving the high viscosity problem of gromwell extracts. In order to do that, sugar extracted together with colorants must be pre-extracted. For sugar decomposition, gromwell roots were pretreated with various enzyme solutions. The total sugar content of pre-extract with enzyme solution was measured. Accordingly, the effects of enzyme type and pretreatment condition on sugar decomposition were investigated to find appropriate enzyme(amylase, hemicellulase, pectinase) and enzyme activity (100~1000unit), pre-extracted time(3~24hr). Color characteristics and dye uptake of dyed fabrics were evaluated. Gromwell colorants were assessed for their potential antimicrobial activities, which possibly expand their end use as functional pigments. The efficiency of removing sugar was increased in the order of hemicellulase, pectinase, amylase, $H_2O$. Gromwell colorants powder yield was in the range of 4.4% to 9.8% depending on pretreatment enzyme. Gromwell colorants produced RP color on the silk and wool fabrics with good dye uptake. Antimicrobial activity of gromwell colorants will greatly increase its potentiality for applying as functional natural colorants in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.7
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• pp.1081-1087
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• 2000

Gromwell colorants were extracted with methanol and dried. Four fractions were obtained by silica gel adsorption column chromatography using step-wise elution method. Relative ratio of four fraction is 1.00:0.07:0.22:0.30(Fl:F2:F3:F4) and gromwell colorants mainly consist of Fl, F3 and F4. IR analysis shows that each fraction has similar structure. Main component of gromwell extracts is acetyl derivative of naphthoquinone, and the rest are isobutyl derivative and isovaleryl derivative etc., in order. Gromwell colorants exhibit relatively good affinity to protein and polyamide fibers, but low affinity to cellulose and regenerated cellulose fibers.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.42-47
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• 2002

Antimicrobial activity of silk and cotton fabrics dyed with gromwell colorants was examined by shake flask method. The effects of bacterial reduction rate on dye uptake and mordanting were explored. The silk(K/S value 8) and cotton fabric (K/S value 4) dyed with gromwell colorants showed high bacterial reduction rate of 99 % and 88 %, respectively. Post-mordanted silk fabric increased at K/S value, also showed higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. But the effects of antimicrobial activity on mordants showed respectively different results. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric except Sn mordant increased at K/S value, but it was not significant. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric showed significantly higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. Therefore, it was considered that dye uptake of cotton fabric dyed with gromwell colorants and mordants were involved in the bacterial reduction rate. It was concluded that gromwell colorants had antimicrobial activity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.3_4
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• pp.422-430
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• 2002

Dyeing properties of the colorants from gromwell on cotton fabric were investigated. The effects of dyeing conditions on dye uptake and the effects of mordants and mordanting methods on K/S value, color change and colorfastness were explored. Gromwell colorants showed low affinity to cotton fabric, and its adsorption isotherm was Freundlich type close to Langmuir type. Therefore, it was considered that hydrogen bonding and Vander Waals force were involved in the adsorption of gromwell colorants to cotton fabric. Pre-mordanting method except Sn mordant gave higher K/S value but it was not significant. Gromwell colorants produced mainly R and RP color on cotton fabric depending on mordants and mordanting method. Dyed cotton fabric showed generally high colorfastness irrespective of mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased by repeat dyeing and Fe and Sn mordanting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.124-132
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• 2002

Dyeing properties of silk fabric on gromwell roof colorants were studied for the effect of dyeing conditions, such as methanol ratio, colorants concentration, pH, temperature and time etc. on the dye uptake and effect of mordants and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptake. And various colorfastnesses of dyed fabrics were evaluated far practical use. Gromwell colorants showed high affinity to silk and its isotherm adsorption curve was Freundlich type close to Nernst type. Therefore, it is considered that hydrogen bonding and Van der Waals force were involved in the adsorption of cromwell colorants to silk fabric. Post-mordanting method gave higher K/S value than other methods, but it was not significantly different color values from unmordanted one. Gromwell colorants produced mainly R and RP color depending on mordants and mordanting method. Dyed fabrics showed high colorfastness irrespective of mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased for repeatedly dyed and Fe mordanted dyed fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.119-123
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• 2007

Dyeing properties of soybean fabrics on gromwell colorants were studied for the effect of dyeing conditions, such as colorants concentration, temperature, time and pH on the dye uptake and effect of mordants on color change, dye uptake and various colorfastness. Antimicrobial activity of soybean fabrics dyed and sim-mordanted with gromwell colorants was examined by shake flask method. Gromwell colorants showed considerably affinity to soybean fabric and its isotherm adsorption curve was Freundlich type. Therefore, it is considered that hydrogen bonding and Van der Waals force were involved in the adsorption of gromwell colorants to soybean fabric. Soybean fabrics showed R color on Al, Cu and Sn mordant, RP color on Cr and Fe mordant, but soybean fabrics showed low dye uptake depending on mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased for Cr and Fe mordants. Staphylococcus aureus reduction rates were above 90% for Cr and Cu mordanted soybean fabrics, and the others were poor. Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rates soybean fabrics did not show reduction rate hardly.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2010.03a
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• pp.125-126
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• 2010

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.311-319
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeing property of gromwell on modified cotton fabric by chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Gromwell colorants were extracted with methanol. Modified cotton fabrics dyed using gromwell were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability (K/S) and color factors (L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ and h) of modified cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of modified cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 10minutes at $50^{\circ}C$. The dyeability (K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}2$, $3{\rightarrow}4$, $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ and $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ respectively. And light fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1.2{\rightarrow}2.3$ and $1-2{\rightarrow}2$ respectively.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Postharvest Science and Technology of Agricultural Products Conference
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• 1996.04a
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• pp.25-25
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• 1996

;Jindo Hongju is an unique red-colored traditional distilled wine of Korea. The unique attractive color of Jindo Hongju is due to the pigments of gromwell (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) root, derivatives of naphtoquinone such as shikonin and acetylshikonin. Which are extracted during the distillation process. The attractive color of the gromwell pigments is easily changed to dark red or to brown causing deterioration of the Quality of Jindo Hongju. Due to the discoloration of the pigments and to the limited supply of gromwell roots, some brewers manufacture spurious Jindo Hongju using artificial colorants. This study was performed to devise a simple method of detecting spurious Jindo Hongju products. The color of the gromwell pigments was greatly affected by pH change and the change could be demonstrated by the change of the absorption spectrum. At pH 4.0 the normal pH of Jindo Hongju, the absorption spectra of gromwell pigments and genuine Hongju products showed an absorption maximum of 520 nm. The absorption maximum was shifted to 570 nm and to 616 nm as the pH was raised to 7.0 and 11.0 respectively. This transition due to the pH change was also demonstrated on em chromaticity diagram. The characteristic transition due to pH change of gromwell pigment solution was not observed with an artificial colorant (red No.2) which was suspected to be used in the manufacture of imitation products. The absorption spectra of most of the Jindo Hongju collected from the market were similar to that of the gromwell pigments and showed the characteristic transition due to pH change with the addition of NaOH. However, with a few of the products, the absorption spectra was similar to that of the artificial colorant and the characteristic transition due to pH change was not observed, indicating these products might have been forged. The result of study suggests that the transition of the absorption spectrum and the change of the color due to pH change be used for the detection of imitation products. Farther more, since, at pH above 9.0, the color of the gromwell pigments and genuine Jindo Hongju could be visually differentiated from that of the artificial colorant and forged products, it might be possible that the forged products be easily detected by raising the pH to above 9.0 and visually comparing the color with that of the gromwell pigment at the same pH.me pH.