• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.518-531
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to research specific dimensional increments of grading and to support to establish a grading system according to the targets of women's wear manufacturers in Korea. For the questionnaire, 91 women's wear brands, which were in higher ranking of sales, were selected, and the age groups were separated into 3: 20's, 30's, and 40's & 50's, according to their customers. The graders of each brand were questioned about specific dimensional increments of grading fur this research. The results of the study were as follows: 1. Using the most common dimensional increments, 3.81cm(1 f inch) and 5.08cm(2 inch) for upper garments and lower garments, the modes of increments and reference increments for each garment section were suggested. 2. For upper garments, the brands for older women made larger increments of waist girth than for bust girth. This was to cover abdominal obesity. Also, the brands made larger increments of girth than for shoulder breadth. 3. For lower garments, the brands for older women made larger increments of waist girth than fur hip girth. It meant the drop value of hip girth minus waist girth was smaller. The breadths of front and back crotch were also wider.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권8호
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• pp.1146-1157
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• 2005

As individual family has fewer children, market sectors targeting children's goods upgrade their products quality and price. Children's wear used to be for casual activity or going to school. Recently, occasions in which children are dressed up are getting increase, such as wedding, concert or family gathering. Therefore, the industry sector of formal wears for school boys are growing. The purpose of this study is to research and grading of formal wears for school boys to improve their fit and comfort. The selected items as formal wear were tailored jacket, tuxedo, tail coat and pants. Based on the grading increments of the industry, grading was done far 7 years and 11 years old school boy for each item. Like the pattern alteration, grading increments were tested and altered through wearing tests. The final increments were suggested as the 'researched grading increments'. The results and conclusions are: 1. Appropriate size allowance, ease amount and lengths for boys are different from those far adults. The difference should be applied for boy's wear. 2. Grading increments for an age group are different from other age group. For example increments of 7 from 9 are different from that of 11 from 9. It is because a certain part grows faster during a certain age whereas other part grows faster during different period. Therefore grading for children should reflect their growth rather than same size increments which is common in adult size chart.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.205-210
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• 2020

본 연구의 목적은 소비자의 의류제품에 대한 만족도를 높이기 위해, 20대 여성 정장용 상의 원형의 그레이딩 편차를 제안하는 것이다. 선정된 원형은 독일 뮐러 원형과 일본 문화 원형이 절충된 것이다. 국민표준체위조사 데이터에 의거하여 20대 여성의 주요치수 평균을 설정하였다. 상의 몸판과 소매의 그레이딩 편차 적용 부위별 그레이딩 편차를 설정하고 그에 따라 그레이딩하고 그레이딩 패턴의 적합성을 점검하였다. 본 연구에서 제안한 여성 20대 정장상의 원형 그레이딩 편차는 업계 그레이딩 실행에 기초 자료로 제공될 수 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.665-674
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to develop a grading increment at armhole area by apparel CAD(Computer Aided Design) system. In developing a grading increment at armhole area, we analyzed ease values of armhole area in bodice and sleeve by manual drafting patterns of five sizes. We suggested grading increments applied Pythagorean theorem to development the grading increment of the armhole of sleeve. The results and discussions of this study were as follows: 1. In drafting each size, the ease values were not identical. It was difficult to draft perfectly the same armhole line shape between sizes. 2. According to our developed grading increments applied Pythagorean theorem, the ease values were identical between sizes and difference of the armhole length between sizes was also identical. 3. The grading formulas were made out for apparel CAD system. Once grading increment or formula is set in the computer, it can be easily altered to various clothing items at any time. The efficiency of grading work will be also improved and grading time will be reduced.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.896-903
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the present condition of pants grading and the methods for the specific dimensional increments, a questionnaire has been conducted. For the questionnaire, 16 casual wear brands, which were on higher ranking of sales in Korea, were selected. The results are summarized as follows. Based on the pants grading data resulting from the research conducted on the (16) domestic clothing brands, the grading method could be classified into three different types. According to the criteria; i.e., the front and back divided by crease of pants and the deviation ratio of the grading increments of the waist and the hip girth, the grading types were (1) G1: front 5:5, back 5:5, (2) G2: front 4:6, back 4:6, and (3) G3: front 4:6, back 3:7.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.377-391
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to research grading work according to the targets of women's wear manufacturers in Korea. For the questionnaire, 91 women's wear brands, which were in higher ranking of sales, were selected, and the age groups were separated into 3: 20's, 30's, and 40's & 50's, according to their customers. The graders of each brand were questioned about 20 items for this research. The results of the questionnaire were as follows: 1 The brands for older women manufactured more sizes and cared more about somatotypes fur grading than other brands did. 2. For upper garments on the basis of bust girth, the numbers of dimensional increments were different depending on the age groups: 9 for 20's, 7 for 30's, and 7 for 40's & 50's. 3. For lower garments on the basis of hip girth, the numbers of dimensional increments were different depending on the age groups: 9 for 20's, 6 for 30's, and 5 for 40's & 50's. 4. As a model size of grading, many brands used the smallest size, but the brands for 40's & 50's also used the second size. 5. The parts needed to be corrected after grading were sleeve ease, armhole, shoulder line, neckline, crotch curve, etc. The grading with CAD system had more correction after grading than hand grading.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.107-117
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to develop the size and grading increments chart for the middle-aged obese women compared with normal women in middle age. Seven hundred and thirty three women's data from the 4th National Korean Size Survey for Standardization (1997) were analyzed. It was found that size increment of bust and hip girth of obese women was different from that of ordinary middle-aged women. The rate of coverage for a certain set of size specification and the grading increment value for the clothing of Korean obese women in middle aged group were also suggested. The relative percentage value of grading rule based on the change in bust girth increment of Korean obese women was quite different from that of American women. In conclusion, it was noted that the characteristics of the body size specification of obese women was quite different from those of the corresponding age group, so that the separated size specification and grading rule are needed to be used in the manufacturing process of obese women's clothing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.860-868
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• 2009

매스 커스터마이제이션 생산 방식이 국내외 의류산업에서 새로운 제조방식으로 확산되고 있다. 특히 국가별로 MTM, 이지오더(Easy-order) 등의 명칭으로 기성복에 소비자 체형을 반영하는 노력이 끊임없이 진행되고 있다. 유니폼은 지속적인 착용과 재구매가 예상되는 의류아이템이므로 이에 대한 사이즈 적용이 필요하다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 국내 유니폼 생산에 이지오더 시스템 방식을 도입하기 위하기 위한 사이즈 포지셔닝 시스템을 제공하고 다양한 사이즈에 맞는 의복 패턴을 제작하기 위하여 양방향 그레이딩 방식을 제안하였다. 연구결과로는 첫째, 5차 사이즈코리아 측정치를 이용하여 키와 가슴둘레에 대한 교차분석을 실시하여 다빈도 구간을 유니폼 사이즈 구간으로 설정하였다. 둘째, 인체측정치에 대한 요인 분석을 실시하여 높이, 둘레, 어깨요인으로 분류하였으며 둘레와 어깨요인을 통합하여 높이와 둘레로 측정항목을 이원화하였다. 셋째, 요인분석 결과로 이원화된 높이와 둘레항목을 각각 키와 젖가슴둘레를 독립변수로 회귀분석을 실시하였으며 회귀계수를 활용한 그레이딩룰을 산출하였다.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.95-110
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• 2001

The purpose of this research is to analyze how appropriately the sizing of domestically produced children's wear compares to children's sizes; it is based on an anthropometric survey conducted in 1998. By discovering and understanding discrepancies between the sizing system of children s wear and the real size of children, this study aims to suggest solutions that will lead to increased comfort and more suitable fitting in children's clothes. This research analyzes and compares 'the extent of growth between age groups' with 'the difference in sizing system in use by manufacturers'. The study focused on aged 4 to 12 children, who are usually divided in two groups; primary students and toddlers. In total, seven sizes were selected: bust, waist, and hip (which are girth sizes), and height, back neck to waist (top length), sleeve length, and waist to ankle (slacks length) as representing length. The results of this research are analyzed by basing on the actual increments between the sizes of children's wear in certain basic items rather than sizes themselves because each size quite differed according to companies, items and designs. Significantly, the increase in the sizing was not as great as the average biennial growth rate of children. The consequences are poorer fit and unsuitable representative value for each age group because the actual sizes of children increasingly differ from the sample size. Observing the increments in several sizes, we found that 81.8% of the companies used the certain and equal increases for grading sizes in sleeve length, waist, and bust. In addition, 72.7% of the companies adopted the same increments between sizes in height and hip girth, and 63.6% also chose equal increments in T-shirt length for making smaller or bigger sizes from the sample size. However, sleeve length and pant length were the components that displayed the most varied sizing. Interestingly, the few companies that used different increments between size groups, adopted the change only between one or two size groups, instead of all sizes. In conclusion, this research reveals the unsuitability of the current sizing system and the necessity to increase consumer confidence in the size tags on children's wear by modifying the system to reflect the actual growth of children. The results can also contribute to future study on the development of a new and more accurate sizing system for children's wear.