• 복식
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• 제26권
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• pp.123-143
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• 1995

Clothing as one of elements of culture has been interwoven with cultural diffusion, and accompanied the most visible change. In this paper, it was focused that the process and the characteristics of western clothing adop-tion of Korea from 1876 to 1945 corelating with cultural diffusion theory. They were analyzed through the change of clothing reformation system by government, school uniform, and social phenomenon. The finding of this paper were as followings; 1. The process of western clothing adoption was forcibly demanded by Japan, therefore influenced by Japan. 2. The clothing reformation which was forced to accept western style was confronted by complex of cultural, psychological and economical resistance. 3. The fashion leaders of this period were Korean students studying abroad, diplomatic officials, members of the armed forces, government officials, students of western educational systemed school, and lady of evangelist. 4. Man adopted western clothing earlier than woman. 5. Western clothing adoption was took precedence in case of formal wear, diplomatic official's attire, military uniform, and school uniform. 6. In this process, we can find 'transculturation' by Malinowski and 'reinter-pretation' by Herskovits. 7. This process was a kind of 'reorientaion'. 8. The change of clothing which was affected by the tradition, for example, robe for the ancestral rites was evolutionary than others. 9. Clothing elements based on mental or internal characteristics like which clothing was hardly changed by compulsion or extortion. 10. The external trends of clothing change during this period were simplicity, utility, and decrease of status symbols.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 International Costume Conference
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• pp.35-35
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• 2003

During the reign of King Kwangjong(光宗) in Goryeo(高麗) there was specific purpose to decide that the government officials should have worn their uniforms in four colors. The main purpose had been to establish new bureaucracy around royal authority. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze four coloured official uniform regulation(四色公服制) concerning the bureaucracy at the time.

• 복식
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• 제62권8호
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• pp.118-133
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• 2012

A historical research on the costume of memorial service officials during the period of late 18th century, King Jeongjo period, is performed for an accurate reconstruction of the memorial service for King Danjong, which is a part of King Danjong Cultural Festival held at Yeongwol. This paper summarizes the results of the research as follows: 1. Jangneung memorial service is held only on Hansik day and the procedure follows the rule based on Gukjooryeui(國朝五禮儀). The service was first held in 1791 for King Danjong and his royal followers. 2. The rule based on Chunkwantonggo(春官通考), defines the king's tomb memorial services and attendees. King Danjong's memorial service follows the rule regarding its attendees and the attendees include high-ranking local government officials, local confucian scholars, and service men. 3. The costume of attendees for the King Danjong's memorial service is as follows: 1)Dangsangkwan(堂上官) and Danghakwan(堂下官) wear Sangbok(常服), which consisted of Samo(紗帽), Heukdanllyeong(黑團領), Pumdae(品帶), and black boots(黑靴). 2)Local confucian scholars wear their uniform consisting of Yukeon(儒巾), Dopo(道袍), Sejodae, and black boots. 3)Service men wear their uniform consisting of Jeonjakeon(典字巾), red-robe with rounded collar called Hongui(紅衣), Kwangdaw hoe(廣多繪), and Uuhae(雲鞋).

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.153-163
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• 1981

Since Korea opened the door to the Western World, traditional costume has changed. The factors of change are as follows: 1) Cultural diffusion by the cultural contact is the foundamental factor of the costume change. 2) The government made edicts of clothing reform. The formal dresses of government official were simplified several times, the edict was issued for men to cut off their hair, and military uniform and government officials' dresses were west-ernized. 3) The diffusion of modernized education by the missionary school accerlerated clothing change. Students were ahead of the abolition of Suege-Chima (which is a sort of veil used to conceal woman's face). 4) The change in the activity of women in society made the women's dresses more convenient for action. 5) The open class system and social agitation speeded up the rate of change. During the Yi Dynasty class distinction was rigid, but the government made the laws which abolished the class distiction.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.44-65
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• 2018

본 연구는 2015년 9월, 보물 제1879호로 지정된 동국대학교 박물관 소장 <희경루방회도(喜慶樓榜會圖)> 속 인물들의 복식을 고찰한 것이다. <희경루방회도>는 1567년 6월 광주목(光州牧) 관아의 희경루(喜慶樓)에서 개최된 동방(同榜) 계회(契會)를 그린 것으로, 방회(榜會)의 주인공인 관료 5인과 관아 소속의 향리(鄕吏), 아전(衙前), 나장(羅將), 조례(?隷), 악공(樂工), 여기(女妓), 동기(童妓) 등 다양한 신분의 남녀가 묘사되어 있다. 이들이 착용하고 있는 복식을 밝히기 위해 문헌자료와 복식유물, 회화자료 등을 활용하였으며 연구범위는 겉으로 드러나는 두식(頭飾)과 포류(袍類), 그에 따른 부속품류로 한정하였다. 현직에 있는 시임관료(時任官僚)는 사모(紗帽) 홍단령(紅團領)을 착용하였다. 그 외에 품계에 따른 품대(品帶)와 흑화(黑靴)를 신었을 것으로 추정된다. 현직에서 물러난 원임관료(原任官僚)는 말총[마미(馬尾)]이나 사(紗)로 싼 흑립(黑笠)에 홍직령과 도아(?兒) 등을 착용하였다. 향리는 흑죽방립(黑竹方笠)에 흰색 직령(直領)을 입고 도아를 띠었다. 고려시대에는 방립이 왕 이하 지식층에서 썼던 관모였지만 조선전기에는 향리의 관모로 전락하였는데 그 착용 모습이 <희경루방회도>에서 확인되었다. 아전은 흰색 직령에 흑립을 쓰고 도아를 띠었다. 나장은 조건(?巾)을 쓰고 철릭 위에 반비의(半臂衣)를 착용하는 것이 규정이었지만 <희경루방회도> 속 나장은 반비의를 착용하지 않고 조건과 철릭만 착용한 모습이었다. 또한 조례는 포(布)로 싼 흑립에 홍철릭을 착용하고, 악공은 소모자에 홍철릭을 착용하였다. 나장 이하 하속은 허리에 모두 청색 계통의 도아를 둘렀다. 여기(女妓)와 동기(童妓)는 주인공의 시중을 들거나 춤을 추고 연주를 하고 있었는데 여기들은 크게 부풀린 둥근 고계(高?)에 홍색 대요(臺腰)를 두르고 곧은 깃 또는 젖힌 깃의 황장삼(黃長衫)을 입고 허리띠를 둘렀다. 동기는 뒤쪽에 양 갈래로 짧게 땋아 내린 머리에 교임형 홍색 포를 착용하였다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.142-160
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• 2023

배표의(拜表儀)는 황제에게 보내는 외교문서인 표문(表文)에 치르던 의례로, 세종 대에 행하여진 배표의에 참여하는 사람들의 직책과 그에 따른 복식을 살펴보았다. 의례 주체자인 왕은 최고 법복인 면복을 착용하였고, 면복은 구류평천관에 구장복으로 구성된다. 왕세자와 종친, 문무백관은 조복인 양관과 적라의를 착용하였다. 왕세자의 조복은 세종 10년에 오량관에서 육량관으로 바뀌었고, 문종 즉위년에 왕세자의 면복을 받아서 단종 이후에는 팔류평천관과 칠장곤복을 착용하였다. 사행원인 사자와 종사관은 상복을 착용하였다. 사자가 착용한 상복은 사모에 흑단령, 서대, 협금화이고, 종사관이 착용한 상복은 사모에 흑단령, 흑각대, 흑피화이다. 왕의 측근에서 시종하는 별감은 공복과 상복을 착용하였다. 공복은 자건에 청단령과 흑피화, 상복은 주황초립과 직령에 조아, 흑피화로 구성되었다. 의장군은 황의장과 왕의 의장이 진열되었고, 산과 개, 수정장, 금월부를 들고 있는 자는 자건에 청의를, 전도황기는 피모자에 청의를 착용하였다. 선과 금은횡과·금은입과·금은장도는 피모자에 홍의를 착용하였다. 시위군은 갑옷과 투구에 검 또는 궁시를 갖추어 착용하였다. 공인 중 악사의 복식은 복두에 비공복, 금동혁대, 비백대대, 오피리로 구성되었고, 악생은 개책에 비수란삼, 협고, 말대, 말, 오피리로 구성되었다. 이상의 결과로 세종 대에 의례복식이 의제화되는 과정을 확인할 수 있었다. 배표의에 참여하는 왕 이하 왕세자, 문무백관, 사자, 별감, 시위군, 공인 모두 각 품계에 맞는 최고 등급의 예복을 착용하였다. 세종은 유교를 바탕으로 한 국가를 건설하고자 거듭된 논의를 거쳐 각 의례와 그에 따른 복식을 정비하였고, 배표의 복식도 직책별로 체계적으로 갖추어졌다. 세종 대에 정리된 의례복식은 예전에 규정화되어 조선 후기까지 이어질 수 있는 기틀이 되었다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제52권3호
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• pp.200-221
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• 2019

국립한글박물관에 소장되어 있는 "혼수발기[婚需件記]"는 1837년 8월 순원왕후가 부마 남녕위(南寧尉) 윤의선(尹宜善)에게 내린 혼수품을 기록해놓은 물목이다. 노란 종이에 궁서체로 작성된 이 발기에는 4종의 관복과 평상복, 장신구 등 55종의 복식류가 기록되어 있다. 이 기록을 통해 19세기 전기 남자 관복, 부마 관복, 1품 관복 등을 살펴본 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 남녕위에게 보낸 "혼수발기"의 복식 기록을 통해 19세기 전기 관복제도를 파악할 수 있었고 "덕온공주가례등록"의 기록보다 더 구체적이고 사실적인 기록임을 알 수 있었다. 둘째, 남녕위는 순원왕후로부터 네 종류의 관복을 받았는데 개인적으로 제작하는 사비(私備) 관복, 즉 조복과 상복 흑단령, 시복 홍단령과 함께 국가에서 제공하였던 공비(公備) 관복, 즉 공복 일습이 포함되어 있었다. 공복은 부마의 명복(命服)으로, 관례복과 혼례복으로 사용된 중요한 의미를 지니고 있는 관복이었다. 셋째, 조복으로 금관, 대홍항라조복, 폐슬, 패옥, 후수, 항라백삼, 목화, 상아홀, 서대가 마련되었다. 이 기록을 통하여 1837년 당시까지는 조복용 중단으로 백삼이 사용되고 있음을 확인하였다. 넷째, 공복으로 대홍항라공복과 남설한초더그레, 남생경광주창의, 초록왜항라쿠리매가 마련되었다. 이 기록을 통하여 관복의 안감이 더그레임을 알 수 있었다. 또한 공복 안에 창의와 쿠리매, 즉 두루마기를 입는다는 사실을 확인하였다. 다섯째, 상복으로 사모, 금치쌍학흉배, 유록운문갑사관대, 남운문갑사더그레, 남쌍문초창의와 당자적화문사쿠리매가 마련되었는데, 특히 금치쌍학흉배를 통해 일반 관원과 차별화된 부마복을 확인할 수 있었다. 여섯째, 시복으로 분홍광사관대, 남광초더그레가 마련되었다. 시복용 단령은 무늬 없는 분홍색 광사를 소재로 사용하였고 안감으로 남색 더그레를 사용하였다. 일곱째, 의류 소재는 가례 시기인 8월에 적합한 항라, 왜항라, 설한초, 쌍문초, 광초, 갑사, 화문사, 광사, 생경광주 등을 사용하였다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.43-62
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• 1989

The luxury is the expression of human being's ornament instinct. In this study, in order to grasp the moulding system of the Korean's personal ornaments, the process of luxury prohibition was reviewed to search for to which direction the ornaments developed in the frame of the prohibited style connected closely to the character of the personal ornaments. The proiod was fixed from the old society to the late Chosun dynasty era. The beginning of the luxury in Korea seems to be the start of the luxury burial at the time of funeral in the age of Koguryo., In the era of Koguryo, 10th year of King Dongmyung (B. C. 28), in the era of Baekje, 27th year of King Koi(260), the prohibition of dress regulation and the style of dress were conducted. The prohibition of personal ornaments in Silla was started from King Bup:Heung, and in the 9th year of King Heung-Duk, the prohibition was conducted in order to correct the luxury of the nobles and set up the social discipline. In the 11 th of King Il-Sung-Ni-Sa-Kum, the use of gold, silver and jade was prohibited in the civilian circles. The prohibition of Silla was succeeded to Koryo era, and in the 7th year of King Kwangjong(956), the system of Baekgwan Gongbok(uniform for government officials) was set up, and the system of Sasek Gongbok(four color official uniform) was set up in the 11 th year of the same King, and the prohibition of the personal ornaments such as crown and band is considred to have been conducted. The prohibition of gold and silver was conducted in the first year of King Sungjong(982), and in the 4th year of King Chungryul(l260), the order of wearing the dress and hat in accordance with the Yusan dynasty and the Mongolian customs were widely circulated in the royal court and vivilian circles. The strong influence of Mongolia made the taste of the traditional personal ornaments laste. The personal ornaments were used for the nobles until the age of the Unified Sillar but even the common people could use them in case they were rich, and such a circumstances made the use of foreign goods inflated. The prohibition of Koryo era was aimed at the prohibition of the foreign goods of luxury, and the classification of the social status.In the age of Chosun Dynasty, the production of gold and silver was feeble indeed but the oute reason of the prohibition was to eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of thrift, and moreover, the gold, silver and jade were no the products of Korea and the prohibition was conducted but the true reason was afor the tribute tt China and the classification of status. The prohibition of Chosun dynasty was conducted first in the June of the 3rd year of King Taejo The major contents of prohibition was no use of gold, silver and jade, coral, agate, amber, etc. of th, wives of the Dang-Sang-Kwan (Court Nobleman) or their sons and daughters, and the same pheno menon was common even at the time of marriage. The people engaged in the secret trade there of wert beheaded. The personal ornaments in the prohibition were the pendent trinket, Binyo (crossbar) ceremonial ornamental hat, ring, earring, ornamental knife, hat string, hat ornament, belt, etc. Thl luxurious marriage expenses out of the luxury was severe, and lose of the marriageable age because 0 non-preparing the marriage goods was the national evil. The prohibition oC luxury was hard to bt kept to the nobles or rich people, the same as old days and present days. The prohibition of th{ luxury and personal ornaments of Korea had nothing to do with the commons, and it was limited tc the nobles and rich people. The prohibition was aimed to cultivating the custom of frugality by eradicating the luxurious atmosphere, but it was chiefly due to the tribute to the China and tht discrimination of the. status. We can say that the recent personal ornament was the flower of handi craft industry bloomed in the prohibition and regulation.

• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.87-114
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• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.