• 복식
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• 제34권
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• pp.169-182
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• 1997

Focusing on khotan located in the southern Silk Route which was one of the most important kingdoms in the Tarim Basin this study attempts to examine the changes of costume in Khotan by compar-ing the costumes in the painted panel showing the story of silk princess with the excavated costumes from ancient tombs. Furthermore this study attempts to inves-tigate the impacts of cultural exchange be-tween China and its western neighboring country Eastern and Western Turkestan on costume. Excavated costumes from the Shanpula ancient tomb in the region of Khotan and from ancient Niya in the esat-ern border of Khotan and discoveries from Rawak and Dandan-oilik near by Yotkan the ancient capital of Khotan are exam-ined. Basic Khotan's costume was the two piece style of tops and trousers. Over the basic costume wearing a top wear with half sleeves was popular. Skirt was worn by women. Even though there were many kinds tops were classified into the two types kaftan and tunic. Thouth Khotan maintained a association with China for a long time the style of Khotan costume had imbued to China. Top wear with half sleeves was worn frequently in Khotan. Also in China top wear with half sleeves was worn as over-wear which was called ban-xiu ban-bi bei-zi Costume style of China is covering the body profoundly and wrapping front edge toward the right. The types of chi-nese top wear with half sleeves for exam-ple round-neck·confronting front edge crossing-neck·confronting front edge tu-nic type discord with the traditional chi-nese costume style There were many cas-es that half sleeved top wear was worn as over wear in T'ang dynasty. The phenom-enon was due to the prevalence of 'ho' (foreign) and half sleeved top wear was introduced by the countries to the west of China Khotan. A round neck garment was a general type for the men of cuntries to the westof China. Also Chinese wore round neck garment since South and North Dynasty The type of Chinese round neck garment was not tunic but kaftan. From costume relics and ancient paintings the type of Khotan's round neck garment was tunic which was recorded on the Chinese histori-cal documents as " guan-tou-shan" that is tunic the type of persian costume, Even thgough the painted panel showing the sto-ry of silk princess was made in the it me when Turks was a dominion on Central Asia Khotan's costume style was not changed toward Turk's costume style and remained tunic style.

• 복식
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.137-154
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.658-667
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is 1) to research how practitioners in fashion industry in South Korea perceive concepts of Technical Design/Designer, 2) to compare and analyze issues at work by occupation, 3) to research specific works in garment development process, and 4) to compare and analyze work involvement by occupation, type of a company and etc, and 5) to propose the role of Technical Designers in apparel companies in South Korea. There were two methods to conduct this study, which were in-depth interview and survey. Both methods were conducted to designers, merchandisers, pattern makers, technical designers, and production coordinators. Frequency analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, and Factor analysis were performed to get results by using SPSS 18.0 program. The results are following. There were 50 works during garment development process from the result of in-depth interview, and 6 factors were obtained from the result of Factor analysis, which were 'Works about Sample in Sample Development Process', 'Works about Product's Pattern and Size Spec', 'Works about Development of Garment's Design', 'Works about Planning of Product Development and Management of Product in Stock', 'Works about Production Process', and 'Preparation Works for Sample Development'. In conclusion, technical designer in apparel companies in South Korea should be in charge of works about sample in sample development process and decision making of product' size spec, which is included in works about product's pattern and size spec. Also, they should complete technical package after product is developed by designers.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.131-139
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• 2011

This study surveyed on the synthesis of one-step type hydrophilic non-porous PU resin and the physical property of the coated fabric for the garment. Three kinds of chain extender such as MEG, 1,4-BD and NPG were used for the preparation of one-step type hydrophilic non-porous PU resin in order to examine the effect of chain extender on the physical properties of PU-coated fabric. And the effects of isocyanate on the physical properties of PU coated fabric were surveyed by mixing with various TDI and MDI ratios. In addition, the physical properties of the coated fabric treated with one-step type hydrophilic non-porous PU resin were examined according to the pre-treatment conditions such as cire finishing. Finally, the washing durability of the coated fabrics was assessed. The coated fabrics treated with PU resin synthesized with PEG1000, MEG and TDI/MDI (6/4) showed the best physical properties. Considering the pre-treatment conditions, best performance of hydraulic pressure, water vapor permeability, and water repellency were obtained with top roller rotation ratio of 150% under 50 ton pressure at $170^{\circ}C$.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.52-68
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• 2012

To achieve the aim of this study, 9 different types of samples were made to examine mechanical property according to structured pattern and type of Machi of pullover armhole of WholeGarment(seamless knitwear). With respect to samples, from which comparisons are made and anaylzed among basic characteristics of material, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation due to repeated extension of armhole connecting part, the following conclusions could be obtained. It's revealed that the tensile strength of Machi part as being armhole connecting part of samples is more affected by Machi type than pattern structure. Of Machi types, it showed stronger tensile strength in the order of Normal(Normal Machi)< Machi_B(unilateral Machi)

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.277-291
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the costume worn by women in daily life according to life scenes depicted in genre paintings of the late Chosan Dynasty. The sentiments and customs of the time were examined to discover how costume culture followed women's lifestyles in the late period of the Chosun Dynasty. First, according to life scenes, a field amusement type costume was the most common garment and a commercial activity type costume was the least common garment. Second, when the form of costume was examined followed by the lifestyle it depicted, the following observations were noted. Women depicted in a housework type lifestyle often wore a Minjeogori. In contrast, women appearing in a labor production type or a commercial activity type lifestyle often wore a Banhoijangjeogori with the width of the coat narrowing gradually according to the trends of the time. In the forms of Chima, the women wore a Duluchima and a Gudlchima for convenience during their work and covered a Haengjuchima over it. Third, women shown in a field amusement type, a home enjoyment type or an affection pursuit type lifestyle mainly wore a deep blue colored Chima and Hoijang or Banhoijang Jeogori. While most of the women depicted in a labor production type, a housework type or a commercial activity type lifestyle wore a natural cotton colored Jeogori and a natural cotton colored and light indigo Chima. Fourth, in the field amusement type and the affection pursuit type lifestyle, the wearing of a headdress during outings of women appeared variously influenced by the strengthening restrictions placed on the women's lives according to the ethics of Confucianism.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권7호
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• pp.826-832
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• 1998

In order to understand the influences of wearing clothings with different thermal insula-tions when men were exposed from $25^{\circ}C$ environment to 18$^{\circ}C$ environment, thermoregulatory responses were measured on 4 healthy female college students. Subjects rested wearing T-shirts, trousers, and socks called LC(total weight 541g) at 25$\pm$1$^{\circ}C$, 50$\pm$5% R.H. and then exposed to the room conditioned in 18$\pm$1$^{\circ}C$, 50$\pm$5$^{\circ}C$ R.H. with LC as it was(LC Type) or with T-shirts, trousers, socks, training wear upper garment, the training wear lower garment called HC (total weight 1368g)(HC Type) for 120 min. The results can be summarized as follows: 1) When subjects were exposed from $25^{\circ}C$ environment to 18$^{\circ}C$ environment, decrease of rectal temperature was significantly smaller in LC Type than in HC Type. 2)Increase of heat production and weight loss had no significant difference between two types of clothing. 3)Internal thermal conductance was higher in HC Type and external thermal conductance was higher in LC Type. Therefore total thermal conductance was higher in LC Type than in HC Type. 4)Decrease of skin temperature was greater in LC Type than in HC Type. 5)Subjects felt colder with LC Type than with HC Type, but did not feel differently in comfort sensation between two types of clothing. It was suggested that less decrease of rectal temperature in LC type inspite of more dry heat loss from body might be ascribed to a shift of blood from the shell area to the core area originating in the vasoconstriction and the lowered internal thermal conductance. In conclu-sion, the importance of the state of internal heat distribution in the homeostasis seemed to be reaffirmed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권7호
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• pp.864-873
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• 2013

This study analyzed the correlation between the sources of the complaints and various factors such as gender, garment type, fabric type, textile material and washing methods for products. This survey utilized a total of 2,609 consumer apparel product complaint cases filed with the Korea Consumer Agency between 1997 and 2009. In regards to consumer liability: it was found that more incidents of failures due to carelessness were reported among men's clothes, knitted garments, cotton clothes, polyester clothes, wool blend clothes, pants, shirts, sportswear, and laundry only clothes. In regards to dry cleaner's liability: women's goods, woven clothes, silk clothes, cotton blend clothes, jackets, shirts and hanbok, and dry clean only clothes indicated problems more frequently. In regards to manufacture's liability: women's clothes, woven clothes, wool clothes, silk clothes, wool blend clothes, polyester blend clothes, formal dress clothes, jackets, hanbok, and dry clean only clothes indicated problems more frequently. This study provides consumers with information necessary to take preventive measures and basic information that can be utilized to improve the quality of production and services by understanding the sources of dissatisfaction, type of clothes found with problems, and the main causes of consumer complaints for garment products according to who is liable.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• The Journal of Asian Finance, Economics and Business
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.475-484
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• 2020

This study investigates determinants of talent retention in textile and garment companies located in Vietnam's Binh Duong province to propose feasible actions for their sustainable development in the current context of competition on the labor market. This study uses self-completed questionnaires to collect data which are then analysed with statistical methods including scale reliability, exploratory factor analysis, and multiple linear regression. Specifically, results from an official survey of 129 people who are regarded as talents in related companies show that there are ten determinants, ranked in descending order of their importance, including: working environment; training and promotion opportunities; salary and benefits; personal loyalty; relationship with colleagues; nature of work; organizational recognition; type of ownership; relationship with superiors; and working experience. Moreover, it is also found that foreign companies are better in retaining their talents than private domestic ones. These findings suggest that, depending on their available resources, organizations need to focus on some of these factors to improve their talent retention; among them, it is critical to provide creative space or create conductive working environment by providing talents with proper tools and equipment for them to feel excited with their work and get things done in an optimal, efficient and effective manner.