• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.117-128
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• 2012

This study compares the net effect of wearing different shoulder/arm armor systems on garment impediment perception and wearer acceptability. Two independent variables in this study were armor systems and shoulder/ arm movements. There were four armor systems of control garment and arm armor systems A, B, and C as well as five types of arm/shoulder movements, (shoulder flexion, should extension, shoulder abduction, shoulder horizontal flexion, and shoulder horizontal extension). Ten male volunteers wearing size medium battle dress uniform (BDU) with recent relevant military experience participated in this study. The volunteers performed shoulder/arm movements (while wearing each armor treatments) and completed the garment impediment perception as well as wearer acceptability scales. The body areas of neck side, shoulder top, and armscye front showed the highest frequency of reported impediments. Resistance to movement and localized pressure were the most frequently mentioned types of impediment. The armor system B had the most areas of impediment, and was rated as more restrictive than the control garment and armor system A for each movement. For wearer acceptability, no significant differences were found between the control garment and armor system A for all eight items; this indicated that subjects did not perceive a difference between wearing the control garment and armor system A. There was a trend for wearer acceptability to decrease from wearing the control garment to armor systems A to C to B.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.799-809
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• 2000

This study was designed for automated pattern drawing and grading a man's Durumagi, Korean traditional coat in order to reestablished and grade the pattern by Apparel CAD SYSTEM. For the study, AM-250 systems of Gerber as the computer and Macro program as the automated drawing were used. Also, PDS(Pattern Design System) was used for the grading of the original Durumagi pattern. Results were followings; First, the size data that could be standardized by reestablishing the pattern of a man's Durumagi by each size was presented. Second, The pattern was developed by each size. Third, new design was propose for mass production with the traditional design of the DURUMAGI Fourth, The time for making DURUMAGI pattern and the cost through the automated drawings by using the Macro program were reduced. Moreover, was presented the basic data for a ready to made garment like the Western garment. Five, A man's DURUMAGI by CAD System was graded that could be applied to ready to made Hanbok

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.121-131
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• 1997

This study was to design the clean room garment which fits for a body and adjusts well to the action. We examined the body's changes in action through a body measurment and made a sample of the clean room garment to which had adapted the body's changes in action and evaluated the function and the appearance compared with the existing the clean room garment. The followings were summery of the results : 1. Back intersyce breadth decreased, trunk length increased and the other parts were not change. At a posture of raising hands($M_3$) in comparison with an upright posture($M_0$). Back intersyce breadth, hip length and knee length increased and the other parts were a little change. At a bowing posture($M_2$) in comparison with an upright posture($M_0$). Back hip girth, knee length, hip length and leg length increased and the other parts were not change. At a working posture on a chair($M_1$) in comparison with an upright posture($M_0$). 2. The overall clean room garment was made increasing on the changes of part of a body through measuring and body measurement. 3. From the test of the function, it became known that the devised clean room garment was superior to the existing one in the parts of neck, shoulder, armpit and elbow at a working posture on a chair($M_1$), in the parts of neck, shoulder, and armpit at a bowing posture($M_2$), and the armpit at a posture of raising hands($M_3$). The appearance was better on the whole. 4. From the examination of photographs, the waist line of the devised clean room garment was not so much pulled up as that of the existing one on moving. And when sitting down on a chair, the waist line of the existing one was pulled down while that of the devised one had no change. As above, we investigated the actual conditions of wearing the clean room garment and measured the body's changes according the various actions. So we applied these results to the devised clean room garment but we couldn't research the clean mom effect of it owing to not obtaining the measuring instrument. The aspect of ergonomics liked the feeling of wearing and fitted to the action must be given consideration to the clean room garment, and simultaneously the dust-resistant effect must be taken into consideration in order to improve the quality of the goods. Therefore, we think it should be continued the research on the dust-resistant effect, material, washing method, quality control, and size along with the aspect of ergonomics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.1084-1095
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to compare the effect of clothing materials and the opening of the garment on the microclimate of the skin simulating system during the coupled heat and moisture transfer. To determine the effect of size and location of openness of the garment, openness was simulated by removing parts of the spacer ring of the modelling system. To evaluate the changes of humidity and temperature of air layer in the system, buffering indice, Kd and Pr, and efficiency of openness were determined. When the openness was imparted to the system, the transport rate of heat and moisture increased abruptly; at the total openness of 26.4%, which simulated the openness of neck, armhole and waist, Kd increased at least more than three times of the closed system. As the openness increased, the effect of clothing materials decreased gradually to lose its effect at the 60% openness and approached the value of nude. Temperature regulating index showed, however, higher value than nude which was apparently due to the still air layer.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.173-182
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• 2007

The concept of wearable computer says to be able to connect to network freely without restrict of place and time through the garment that contain the wire and circuit. Thereby we can realize the ubiquitous circumstances. Wearable computer plays a role of center in controlling the electronic equipments under the ubiquitous circumstances and also it will become the main stream of the future computer development. The current wearable computer displays ugly appearance by attaching the parts of computer on the garment instead of installing them in the box. However, as size of computer components are minimized and it's speed is getting faster, it is certain that wearable computer will evolve as fashionable computer, still retaining garment's original purpose such as fitting and fasion even though the computer is being installed to the clothing. This study reviewed about components, future market share, developed goods, human-being becoming cyborg, application area, restrict and on-going research of wearable computer.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.12-18
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• 2004

A parametric body model generation system has been developed. Using various mathematic and geometric algorithms of this system, a three-dimensionally scanned human body can be converted into a resizable body model. Once a parametric body model is formed, its size and shape can be modified instantaneously by providing appropriate anthropometric data. To facilitate the subsequent pattern arrangement process for garment drape simulation, a bounding box generation algorithm has been developed in this study. Also the model can be converted into a set of parametric surfaces that it can also be used for three-dimensional garment pattern design system.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.69-79
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to compare fitting of the upper garment by brassiere cup size and types of bodice block. This study conducted a 3D virtual garment system by applying three types of bodice block (I, II, III) and experimental pattern of the bodice block to 3D avatars of four individuals with the following measurements: under bust circumference of 73.5 cm and bust circumferences of 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0cm. The results of the study were as follows. First, for 83.5 cm bust circumference (A Cup), appearance of the three types of bodice block (I, II, III) was appropriate. However, as bust circumference increased in size, shape became inappropriate. The depth and width of the armhole, within 15 cm and 11 cm, respectively, were found to be appropriate. In case of 91.0 cm bust circumference (D Cup), all three bodices (I, II, III) were inappropriate. Second, the results of the draft of the experimental patterns of the bodice block of bust circumference measuring 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0 cm in the 3D avatars of the four individuals revealed similarities in the frontal view of the silhouette in the four avatars; in the case of the lateral view of the silhouette, lateral width grew wider as bust circumference of the silhouette became larger, but the shape of armhole showed no changes. The depth of the armhole showed little changes from 15.1 cm to 15.22 cm, and the height of sleeve (armscye depth 13.6 cm within +2 cm) remained similar. The difference in width of the armhole from 11.26 cm to 11.37 cm was rather small. The width of the upper sleeve (8.97 cm) seemed to be appropriate as it remained within the 2-3 cm boundary.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.99-109
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to survey sizing system and preferable ease and to decide the body measuring items for pattern making in a men's dress shirt for mass customization industry that is rising to the surface as a new production system. For this, it had a survey subjects were 254 males between 25 to 44 years old who wear dress shirt frequently and the relevant on line companies, and analyzed the garment sizing system and preferable ease. Collected data were analysed by frequency analysis, t-test, $X^2-test$, and ANOVA using SPSS 12.0 for window. Garment pattern making should reflect the sizes of the body parts well, and simplification of the ordering process would work as an important variable. In relation to the preferable ease, older people preferred more ease while younger people preferred fit ease. In relation to the sizes, people wearing the size of '110' preferred more ease than the size of '90'. And people weighing over 90kg preferred sufficient ease than less weighing. People height over 170cm people preferred sufficient ease for the length between shoulders than height under 170cm. In case of the companies had no consistent sizing system. Significant difference was found in the sizes, except for the size of '100', among those companies, there was significant difference in the length between shoulders and the length of the shirt among those companies and those sizes. Significant body parts for a garment pattern making was height, the circumference of the neck, the chest circumference, the length between biacromion, the arms length, and the waist circumference.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.969-980
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• 2003

The aim of the study is to develop a jean jacket and pants of easy-to-move for schoolgirls of 11 years old. The research was carried out as follows; 1. Using a manufacturer's pattern, a jean jacket and pants were made. 2. Based on the survey of 108 schoolgirls, interviews with 4 designers of children's wear, and wearing test, three trial garments were developed. -Certain areas such as knee, elbow, and hip should be altered to have better extensibility. -The weight of the garment would be better to be reduced. 3. Three trial garments were developed using following techniques, which were found in fashion magazines for kids very often. -Alter the location and the shape of the seam line so that the areas mentioned above can adjust the movement of the body better. -Match stretchable material at the areas which require better extensibility. -Use various trimmings to make the garment more size adaptable and easy-to-move. 4. These garments were tested by 26 schoolgirls, and they answered the questionnaires focused on the design preference and easy-to-move. 5. From the results of the wearing test of three trial garments, more effective techniques were selected. Using these techniques, prototype garment was developed. The prototype garment was approved by the wearing test of 26 schoolgirls.