• The KIPS Transactions:PartB
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• v.11B no.6
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• pp.683-690
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• 2004

Garment modeling and simulation is now one of the important elements in broad range of digital contents. Though there have been recent products on garment simulation, general users do not know well enough how to design a virtual costume that meets some requirements about its specific clothing pattern. In particular, Hanbok - the Korean traditional costume - has many different characteristics against western ones in the aspect of its pattern design and of draping. This paper presents a knowledge-driven approach for virtual Hanbok modeling without knowing how to make real Hanbok. First, parameterized knowledge for several fabric types art solicited using visual similarity assessment from simulated and real cloth. Secondly, based on the analysis of designer's knowledge, we defined multi-level adjustment processes of Hanbok measurements with regard to body shape features for different virtual actors. An experimental system is developed as the form of a Maya plug-in and the result shows the applicability of the proposed method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.112-125
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• 2010

A Holter monitor is used for ECG monitoring of ambulatory daily life in hospital. However, the use of this apparatus causes skin allergies and discomfort in patients because of the attachment gel and tapes used to attach disposable electrodes to the skin. In this study, the development of tight-fitting clothing connected to a portable Holter monitor was proposed. In addition, the use of conductive fabrics as electrodes was proposed; this will enable the use of garments in u-health care for measuring ECG signals. The male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales. A Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and a 7 point score indicates that it provided the best fit as a tight-fitting upper clothing. Clothing pressure was measured using an air-pack-type pressure sensor (model AMI 3037-2) at 4 locations (the conductive fabric electrode) As results, a male basic sloper for upper clothing was developed and that pattern was manipulated to the tight fit pattern by considering the reduction rate of the percentage stretch in the fabric. The developed tight-fitting garment was superior in terms of subjective sensation and 6t. The mean pressure of the garment with reduction rates of 40% in width and of 50% in length was 8.45gf/$cm^2$. A conductive fabric electrode was developed by considering the sewing method and the developed electrode was detected well. The ECG data were recorded for 13 hr 19 min 44 sec and the artifacts in the ECG signals were recorded for 9 hr 3 min 46 sec (total time: 22 hr 23 min 23 sec). The artifacts data were obtained during heavy activities.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.605-618
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of men's slim pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The study selected four educational materials and one industrial pattern of slim pants for a total of five items. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing and opacity, and a comparison was performed regarding the clothing pressure when the virtual model was standing and walking. The results of our comparison of the patternmaking for slim pants showed that pattern C pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while B pants showed no ease. The C and E pants also had the most ease on the hip measurement. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, E, B, and C, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem when standing in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. While walking, the stress appeared to be different for the left and right parts of the body, and the most significant difference was observed on the thigh area.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.80-96
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• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.329-334
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to develop the design, pattern and size system of brief as a measurement garment in order to obtain more precise silhouettes and sizes of the body in 3D measurements. The results of this research are as follows: First, nylon/lycra materials which elasticity is equivalent to 18%(wale) and 27%(course), were selected as a material for briefs to minimize possible error in measurement and deformation of body shape caused by looseness or tightness in its measured parts. And T-back style design was selected, of which briefs neither deform human body nor cause overlapping or excessive tightness when was put on the measurement garment over it. Second, different darts for men and women were adopted into the pattern in consideration for the shape of hip. Third, the waist band of briefs was located between the waistline and abdominal girth line so that it didn't interfere with measurement, and using a wide band of 40mm minimized the tightness of the human body. In addition, the stitch lines and sewing procedure were simplified to minimize the deformation of body shape resulting from inseams and stitch lines. Finally, for the size of briefs, 6 cm intervals were set on the basis of the waist girth and 8 kinds for men and 6 kinds for women were selected in descending order of appearance rate by the interval sections. English T meaning T-back design and numbers representing the waist girth were marked in parallel for the name of size.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13
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• pp.55-64
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• 1996

Garment is not only a part of formative art that establishes a live shape by wearer but also space modeling which features the solidity based on human body. Hence, beyond the simple meaning of 'wearing clothes', modeling which makes a cubic shape in accordance with human body's movement, is an important element in garment design. This study examined puli-over-typed garment design that owns abundant space sense, taking complex shapes of geometrical diagrams with brief and simple features as a motive. The study aims at seeking after the combination of plane and cubic forms, and exploring formative garments which are further modern and different variance by approaching the natural section of geomentrical facets with tightfitting idea and composition of delicate colors and forms when plane pattern was put on human body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.681-691
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• 2008

Taking into consideration both the inconveniences reported with current working uniform for the aircraft mechanics and the subjects' requirements mentioned in preceded survey, the researchers designed an ergonomic sample garments with improved motional flexibility and comfort. To improve motional flexibility, extra folds were added to the back of the garments to allow for ease of motion of limbs, so that the material would not be drawn up by the motion of the arms. Darts were added to the elbow, hip, the knee. Furthermore, by increasing the length of the waist centerline, the hip region would not be drawn up. For improved comfort, $CoolMax^{(R)}$ was used as lining material for the armpit and back region to discharge swear promptly. Subjects and panels were asked to evaluate the sample garment that followed an ergonomic design and pattern. According to the results, the sample garment was evaluated more highly than the existing working uniform in appearance and motional flexibility. The field tests by three aircraft mechanics working in the Office of Forestry were also demonstrated that the sample garment was advanced in terms of motional flexibility and comfort.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.176-187
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• 2002

The aim of this research is to establish basic materials for fashion merchandising by observing the street fashion of the juveniles and by analyzing their wearing, coordination and fashion trend. We have taken the photograph of the street fashion of 202 male teenagers and 265 female teenagers in Busan, and analyzed in the category of style, item, color, pattern, materials, hair style, shoes and accessories. We have concluded that the most frequent items were shirts (male), turtle neck (female) and jeans. The main style was casual just as jumper-look, sweater-look, gardigan-look. The typical female fashions that were hip-hop-look, twin neat-look, trench coat-look, were more various than male. For the color coordination, contrast color coordination was more dominant than similarity color coordination. Dominant patterns were solid, and also check and stripe patterns were frequently found in upper garment. The representative materials were soft for upper garment, and hard for trousers. Male teenagers prefer middle-length hair style and female teenagers prefer long hair style. The juveniles in Busan are wearing sports shoes and leather shoes in similar frequency. Their favorite accessories are bag, muffler and hat.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.1080-1095
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• 2023

Three-dimensional virtual fitting has become a trending practice in the fashion industry because of its productivity benefits, allowing garments to be virtually worn by avatar models without physical production. This study analyzed the variables influencing clothing pressure in both real and virtual fittings to expand the potential utility of pressure data derived from the latter. For this purpose, six sets of compression garments were created by combining two types of tricot fabrics and three types of reduced-pattern tops, with the clothing for real and virtual fittings having identical dimensions. Focus was directed to analyzing the correlation among clothing pressure, surface area deformation, and the mechanical properties of the fabrics. In real fittings, clothing pressure was influenced by multiple factors, including garment design, pattern reduction ratio, body shape, and fabric properties, consistent with existing knowledge. In virtual fittings, however, only the digital mechanical characteristics of the fabrics significantly influenced clothing pressure. The findings suggest that a more reliable implementation of clothing pressure in virtual fitting programs necessitates an approach that considers the complex structural information of garments.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1205-1220
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.