• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.380-386
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• 2016

This study examined the stainability and functionality of cotton dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. as a research preceding the development of health functional materials and fashion products with a healing motif. The CIELAB measurements of the cotton fabric dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. showed 73.32 for $L^*$, 1.7 for $a^*$, and 37.78 for $b^*$, while the Munsell measurements exhibited 2.63Y in color, 7.18 of brightness, and 5.49 of chroma. The degree of staining resulting from color fastness to laundering, and that resulting from color fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline), as well as the level of color fastness to crocking (wet and dry) all stayed between relatively higher levels of 4 and 5. The fabric dyed also exhibited SPF 50+, an outstanding sun blocking performance. The deodorization rate was also excellent, rising from 97% to over 99% when the time elapsed increased from 30 minutes to 120 minutes. The fabric dyed also showed a 99.6% antimicrobial activity against staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, and a 71.4% antimicrobial activity against Klebsiella pneumoniae ATCC 4352. The aforementioned findings indicate that fabrics dyed with the extract of Salvia Plebia R. Br. contain the potential to be developed for use as health-related materials and fashion products that promote healing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.79-88
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to propose the design of the patient's clothes for a disabled child between 4 and 6. For this, in this study, I would present the following design plan which includes 3 upper garments, 2 trousers and a one-piece dress. In case of the damage on head and neck, a neck line should be deep and wide thereby providing ease to the clothes. To facilitate injection and dressing/undressing, there should be parting from neck to cuff which can be fixed by snap or button. By rolling up sleeves with strings inside the cuffs and fixating plaster cast with snap button outside the cuffs. In case of body cast with plaster cast around body part, front adjusting part should be wider and the width should be adjusted with strings. In case of hip spica cast which covers waist, I separated front part and rear part, fixated them with snap buttons, gave more width to front adjusting part with strings to adjust width, which constitute one-piece dress. In case of shoulder spica cast, the other shoulder which is not covered with plaster cast should be exposed, and to prevent clothes' coming down, strings with snap button or velcro should be attached over a shoulder so that the length of the strings can be adjusted. In case of applying plaster cast or aid to the whole part of a leg, one part of trousers should be shorter so as to expose the injured part and there should be a parting with strings or velcros on the side for easy dressing/undressing. When plaster cast or splint is short, The strings are meant to adjust length of trousers. The partings are located 2 cm from side lines toward the center.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

Eco-friendly and health-functional clothing is now becoming the target of the worldwide hot trends. The purpose of this study is to develop an eco-friendly textiles to decrease environmental pollution and to be harmless for human health by investigating how the natural chorangak liquid treatment affects the changes of mechanical properties and the hand of silk fabrics according to different treatment conditions. Treatment was varied with various temperatures ($85^{\circ}C$, $90^{\circ}C$, $95^{\circ}C$) for 90 seconds after degumming. The results were as follows: 1) The natural chorangak liquid is the most effective at the ratio of glacial acid 200ml with eggshell 20g minimizing the time limit and sludge reduction. Its treatment of silk fabrics is optimized at $90^{\circ}C$ for 90 seconds with 25% conc. after degumming when considering tenacity and elongation. 2) After the treatment, tenacity and elongation of specimen are increased compared with those of degummed silk fabrics. 3) After analyzing the effect of the treatment on the characteristic values of basic mechanical properties of silk fabrics, mechanical properties (tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface) are overall improved. The properties of thickness and weight are increased as well. 4) Based on the clear analysis on effects of the treatment on the mechanical properties and the hand of silk fabrics, the level of THV was enhanced from good to excellent. Therefore, chorangak liquid can be utilized satisfactorily as a new finishing agent for developing eco-friendly textiles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.66-80
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• 2013

Nomadism means 'divide share' and 'drift where allocated'. The word to express a variety of modern people without being tied to a fixed time and place, constantly moving to new areas and explore the possibility. The progress of this study, first, to research on the conceptual study of Nomadism through Deleuze's theory of art and to organize Nomadism patterns and design paradigms in modern society. Second is to analyze and investigate cases of Nomadism based on the theoretical background in a way to reinterpret to the contemporary fashion, and to suggest the formative characteristics and inherent expressiveness of Nomadism expressed in modern fashion. Theoretical considerations made through the collection data were select from ready-to-wear women's collections 2005 S/S~2013 S/S presented in 'Style.com'. The results of the analysis of the formative characteristics of Nomadism in the $21^{st}$ century fashion are 'mixed expressions of time space and gender', 'pursuit of diversity through self-dismantling', 'clothing systemization of mobile and deformable' and 'temporary amusement, lightness, an expression of the ride rules'. The inherent expressiveness of Nomadism through these types of figurative representation are 'unbounded fashion', 'multi-center, multi-functional' and 'emotional directivity'. As such, philosophy and artistic trends started Nomadism is harmoniously expressed in terms of the design transcending the boundaries of existing stereotypes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.75-87
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• 2012

This study aims at measuring and comparing the joint range of motion(ROM) of the elderly, quantitatively understanding the joint ROM and duration for their dressing and undressing of pants with 3D motion analysis equipment, and thereby providing basic data necessary for the future development of clothes carrying functional designs. The findings are as follows. As for the study method, the 9-item joint ROM measurements were conducted with goniometer, and the questionnaire analyses were carried out for t-test, ANOVA, and regression analysis with spss12.0 program. The 3D motion analyses were handled with 3D Motion Analysis Package Version 3.1 Program. The findings are as follows. First, the ROM was shown to be significantly low, as the arthritis-pain consciousness level was felt higher by the subject than the average one. Seven ROM variables, such as hip flexion, hip adduction, hip internal rotation, hip external rotation, knee flexion, ankle dorsiflexion, and ankle plantar flexion, were shown to significantly affect the discomfort level experienced at the time of dressing or undressing. Second, in the motion of inserting the remaining leg into the pant crotch part(3e), the difference of angles in the hip joint and knee joint was the largest between the women in their 20s and the elderly women with arthritis. Third.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.271-285
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop a new basic skirt pattern for 4 lower body types of Plus-sized women. To reduce a time and economic loss about putting it on, This study applied a 3D sample module in the course to develop a basic skirt pattern which is fit, functional and beautiful. A data analysis used the SPSS 11.0 statistics program. To verify the difference, This study used the variance analysis and Duncan's test for the postmortem verification. The result was as follows. To reflect a feature according to an abdomen projection and hip projection, we added the maximum hip circumference to the waist circumference and hip circumference for necessary for a skirt draft item. The front hip circumference sets to the H/4+1cm(ease)+D/4. The back hip circumference set to the H/4+0.5cm(ease)+D/4. The D is the hip circumference in the maximum hip circumference to subtract. The front waist circumference sets to the W/4+0.5cm(ease)+0.5cm(A front and back's difference)+D/4. The back waist circumference sets to the W/4+0.5cm(ease)-0.5cm(A front and back's difference)-D/4. Compare with 4 lower body types of Plus-sized Women, A type 2 and type 4 abdomen projections are bigger. We raised a front waistline of skirt pattern to a 0.3cm upside, and take about 1.3cm down the skirt length from a developed skirt pattern. Consequently, the appearance of a front skirt length was improved with a side skirt length.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.5 s.58
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• pp.729-742
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• 2005

This paper studied the ban on 'Po[포]', including hemp and ramie, on the basis of Joseon Wangcho Silok (the True Record of Joseon Dynasty). Po is the important point which can help to understand the people's life related with clothing. This paper showed that in the early years of the Joseon Dynasty, the state had forced kinds of bans on some fabrics many times. Among the bans of the fabrics-making the main part was the bans on Po, along with rice, used as money in those days. The state had on Po enacted on the policy to intend to promote paper money circulation more widely. However, people didn't want to use paper money. The reason why cloth could be practical and functional as a kind of currency was that people could make clothes with it at any time while they used it as money. People avoided using paper money that could not be used in that way, and so did public officials. At that time, Po that was generally used as money was the hemp of five warp threads. The measurement of the hemp in 7chi[촌; a Korean inch] by 35chok[척] and 32cm by 16m by modern metric. It also showed that it has been thought that the blended fabrics are the fabrics that were made of raw silk-threads and cotton threads as warp and weft respectively. However, the fact that there is a record of 'Jeo Ma Gyo Jik Po[저마교직포의]'(blended fabrics and clothes made of ramie and hemp) and there appear the new proofs of the fieldwork investigation shows that the concept of blended fabrics might be various or changeable as time passed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.468-480
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• 2014

This study aimed to identify the effects of sports participation motives, the involvement in choosing sportswear, and the satisfaction with/perceived importance of sportswear functionality, on customers' repurchase intentions. A total of 185 survey questionnaires were analyzed after surveying 200 female undergraduates in their 20s. The research results are as follows. First, the participation motives for sports were categorized as follows. A factor analysis conducted on 13 questions yielded 4 factors. Factor 1 included consideration about socializing and pleasure, factor 2 privileged ostentation, factor 3 was concerned with enhancing health, and factor 4 was about maintaining appearance. Second, the various effects of different sports participation motives, of the satisfaction with functionality, and of the involvement in buying sportswear on customers' repurchase intentions were analyzed. The intention to repurchase sportswear was considered as a dependent variable, while the motives for participating in sports, the satisfaction with functionality, and the level of involvement were treated as independent variables. A multiple regression analysis using these variables showed that the satisfaction with functionality and involvement in choosing sportswear had a significant impact on the intention to repurchase sportswear. Third, looking at how different participation motives for sports affected the importance of sportswear functionality, the motives related to socializing and pleasure and ostentation, the sub-factors in sports participation motives, significantly increased the importance of comfort. Motives related to enhancing health and maintaining appearance, on the other hand, were found to affect the importance of sports performance. Fourth, a MANOVA was performed to examine the difference in the importance of functionality between those consumers highly involved in sportswear-buying and those less involved. Those with a high level of involvement were found to prioritize sports performance over comfort. Those with a low level of involvement were shown to place a greater emphasis on comfort.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.152-168
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop a design prototype of outdoor-wear which is suitable for trekking. For achieving this purpose, 6 factors(bodice, sleeve, hood, pockets, opening, hem-line) considered for clothing function were selected, classified, and complemented based on the survey of literature and the research of 185 designs in 12 outdoor-wear brands. The results are as follows; The removable hood and 4DM sleeve style with the elastic band and velcro for the cuffs was the most preferred in the detail design on the brand research. And also the ventilation function and 1 or 2 diagonal in-seam pocket, covered zipper was preferred. Based on this result, two design prototypes of men's outdoor-wear for trekking were suggested; jacket 1 has a slim waist line and a hip length. Front opening has a zip and placket for windproof effect. There is a detachable hood with stopper around the head line. 4DM sleeve and elastic band inserted at the end of sleeve, so that prevent the hem-line raising. Two inseam pocket is placed slightly diagonal. Jacket 2 is a hood jacket with a york. The Jacket has a little roomier in waist and a hip length. Front opening is fastened by a waterproof zip. It has a 4DM sleeve and a princess line to make it placed two pocket which have ventilation functionality.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.244-251
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• 2016

Viscose rayon filament fabrics have been called 'artificial silk' and beloved as summer clothing materials for a long time in Korea. This is because the viscose rayon filament fabrics reveals glossy surface and cool touch feeling compared to other conventional fabrics composed of staple fibers. Therefore, we tried to prepare the higher value added viscose rayon filament fabrics for summer textile products. In this study, we applied gallnut extract to the viscose rayon filament fabric to develop summer fabrics with natural color and multi-functions such as antibacterial and antioxidant properties. This process also pursue eco-friendly and multi-functional fabric finishing from the natural material "gallnut". In addition, various pre-treatment with cationizer, chitosan, or chito-oligomer was applied to the finishing process to improve the finishing efficacy and durability. Consequently, it was found that the active component of gallnut extract was successfully incorporated to the viscose rayon filament fabric through a pad-dry-cure process. And, the treated viscose rayon filament fabrics showed excellent antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Therefore, it was expected that the rayon filament fabrics treated by gallnut extract could be used as effective summer fabrics preventing the growth of bacteria and skin ageing as well as providing cool touch feeling. However, the pre-treatments were not that meaningful on the functionalities but effective on coloring.