• 복식
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• 제60권8호
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• pp.132-150
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to study the forms and styles of the costumes in the Peking Opera of China and to figure out the symbolism and aesthetic value of the costumes. The research was done using documentary Peking Opera, the costumes can be seen as a special kind of language which audience members can clearly understand it. Therefore, the spectators can understand instantly the sex, age, personality, and position of the character by seeing the style, color, and patterns of the costumes. As a result, one can call the costumes of Peking Opera, "picturizing costumes". The typical costumes are mangpao, pi, kao, xiezi, yi. Mangpao is the ceremonial robe often used by emperors and officials. It can be worn by lao sheng, xiao sheng and wu sheng. Bright yellow and apricot yellow colors are used exclusively by those who play the parts of emperors, foreign rulers, princes and the Monkey King. The next costume style to be discussed is Pi. Pi is the informal dress for the emperor, and young officials that are involved in civilian or military duties. The third costume style to be explored is Kao: the garment that a stage warrior wears when going into battle. This warrior can have three kinds of armor: the hard armor, the soft armor and the newly revised armor. Fourthly, the costume that is the most commonly worn, xiezi, is examined; it is the informal coat for every one regardless of one's age, sex, role, or level of nobility. Finally, the last of the typical costumes is Yi; this costume category includes numerous kinds of costumes, such as kaichang, baguaiyi, fayi, guanyi, yulinjia, kanjian, toupeng, jianyi, etc

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.124-137
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• 2005

Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.

• 복식
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• 제55권8호
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• pp.48-56
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• 2005

Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2010

This study aims to know the trace of Korean musical, consider musical depending on its type, arrange characteristic of musical costume and find out the developmental direction of Korean musical costume with potentials as a culture industry. For study method, the data were collected from thesis, academic journal, book and internet web-site concerning musical costume, literatures were considered and performance costume photos, which were captured via musical performance site, were analyzed. The history of Korean modern-day musical is regarded as starting with (1966) in the full scale. Although foreign musical was imitated in 1970s~1980s, it may be called the growth period of Korean musical because the period showed the commercial possibility. Since 1990s, large-scaled musical securing good work and popularity was popular. In 2000s, musical industry was abundant quantitatively and qualitatively as investment or popularity was significantly expanded. The type of Korean musical are divided to opera musical of European, Broadway musical of American and creative musical of Korean. The costumes used in opera musical of European and Broadway musical of American are borrowed from original works through license or were manufactured in Korea by referring to the costumes of original works and using similar materials or fabrics. The costumes used in creative musical of Korea are designed by either domestic or foreign designers and produced in Korea.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.145-156
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to demonstrate the stage costumes realized by digital clothing ; how realistic and accurate representation of empirical testing and in the consultation process for the production stage costumes, determine whether digital clothing has value that can be substituted for the stage costume. This study researched the stage costume manufacture, Isabel's costume of the musical 'Christmas Carol', process by using the 3-D clothing simulation technology : DC Suite. The results of this study is as following. They share many similarities between the stage costumes and digital clothing. It is possible that digital clothing takes a role as a substitute for stage costumes in the production process of the clothing samples. The clothing production system, including stage costumes, by digital clothing costs and lead time can be saved by innovative. Also the result can be saved without restriction, and this system can exert its effect in a very efficient way to incorporation of foreign producers and production system.

• 복식
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• 제53권4호
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• pp.17-29
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• 2003

Long Sleeve Costume is often seen not only in ancient China but also in various neighboring places throughout the time. Costumes show the societies cultural preferences and values at that time, and Long Sleeve Costume is no exception. In my research, 1 focused on the time period from Han Dynasty to Tang dynasty in ancient China. During Han dynasty, Shenyl style robe(심의형 포) was widely worn, and it shows very little foreign cultural influence. For the period of Wei·Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties, foreign aspects of costume started to show up Possibly due to the influence of Buddhism and influx of foreign tribes. For instance, it is not too difficult to find hufu (호복) as well as Shenyl style robe, and it appears this Wei Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties may have been a transitional period of accommodating two cultures without complete merger. Now, when it comes to Tang dynasty, we observe a creation of new cultural form in costume after adopting exotic culture. Because Sh ny style robe. often observed for a long time in Chinese history, disappeared, and tuanling(단영) and fanling(번영) became the main stream in their costume style in Tang dynasty.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.83-93
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• 1986

This study is aimed at providing guidelines to settle unified terminologies that can be used in education, industry and factories by identifying the problems in the use of complicated terminologies concerning manufacture of western costumes. The results of the study reveal that educational terminologies tend to be more Korean languages whereas the terminologies used in practice consist of main streams of Japanese words which were transmitted erroneously, thus causing barriers of communication between the two fields, being same points to be called differently and being the terminologies pertinent to Korean costumes mistakenly used for western costumes. The confusion of use of professional terminologies is significant problem to be sotted in view point not only of the economic aspects of low productivity but also of the settlement and transmission of Korean culture. Therefore, the administrative measures are badly in need to solve all these problems. The following points are recommended to solve these problems on the basis of the findings of this study. 1) In principle the mistakenly transmitted Japanese words and the mixed up terminologies should be Koreanized, but those words for which there are no proper Korean words and complicated words difficult to commumicate can be replaced by the standardized pronunciation of the original words. 2) The words for Korean costumes which are mistakenly used for western costumes should be expressed by the standard of western costumes. 3) The readily localized foreign terminologies had better be used as they are. 4) The variety of terminologies indicating same points should be Koreanized in unification to best express the true meaning of the original words. 5) The misspelled Korean words and the dialect of Korean words should be standardized.

• 복식
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• 제54권5호
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• pp.59-70
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• 2004

Tea has influenced the basis of Korean culture in history for a long time. The dissertation aims to establish the history of the costumes for the tea ceremony based upon historical data. During Thee Kingdom Period. there was a ceremony called Tea Offering Ceremony In Silla times, there were Tea Offering Ceremony and Royal Shrine Tea Ceremony: In Corea age, they served Tea Presenting Ceremony: In Chosun age. tea ceremony was a part of Tea Presenting and was held during official greeting feasts for foreign envoys and during feast ceremonies at the court. The costumes for the tea ceremony by period are as fellows : In Corea times, king and all the government officials wore official court attire for Enthronement Ceremony (Ka-Rye). For Official Guest Reception Ceremony (Bin-Rye), king wore official costume, but in case the envoy was not carrying an Official King＇s Letter, king wore Ordinary Costume. In Chosun times, both king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes (with golden dragon patterned segment) for Envoy Reception Tea Ceremony. In time of royal feast ceremony, king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes, while queen wore red purple silk robe (red purple embroidered segment). Chosun＇s royal court occasionally held tea ceremonyat royal feast ceremonies during which king also wore ordinary costume of winged silk crown and royal robe as a costume to attract good fortunes. In case of ceremonies for bad occasions, a tea ceremony was included in Royal Inquisition procedures (joong-hyung-ju-dae-eui) during which king wore simple costume (Pyun-Bok).

• 복식
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• 제56권5호
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• pp.44-58
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• 2006

Dolls which were recognized as children's toys are recently also recognized as one of the cultural products of adult's hobby. Thus this research is about dolls' fashion and the possibility of their industrial expansion. Moreover, the object of the research is to develop and manufacture high quality fashion doll products in Korea which are mostly imported from foreign countries. The research studied the origin and the path of the development of fashion dolls with the history of clothing and special books for dolls. By organizing the character and the fashion of dolls' costumes, the research has a meaning for not only to make an academic approach of dolls' costumes which was insufficient in Korea but also to provide useful information to toy enterprises. The conclusion of this research is as followed. First, dolls have a lot of possibilities to be developed as a high value added cultural product industry by emerging from their children's toy image. Second, since costumes of dolls also have a trend, it is necessary to develop products with the trend to satisfy customer's willing. Third, organization of both the books about the dolls' costumes and the information for their DIY is urgently needed for the domestic fashion doll manias. Forth, the necessity to scheme the expansion of fancy industry has been raise by using dolls' characterization and fashion. Fifth, the researcher who has researched the above necessities has manufactured 8 pieces of dolls' costumes and provided the actual solutions to the each point of the discussions. In sum, I suggest expanding the scope of both research subject and product manufacturing of the research results and also recommend for further researches to develop the products which consumers want.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.593-603
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to study the Central Asian costumes($1{\sim}7C$) and develop new design items and suggest new brand launching. Korean apparel industry has been suffering from imbalance of supply and demand caused by the sagging economy and too many apparel companies. Due to the several years of recession, clothing consumption decreased and foreign brand's market share got bigger. As a result, managing a company became difficult and it is time for Korean apparel industry to enter the global market. We need a brand with new image and design that has big potential of purchasing power not only in Korea but also in China, and furthermore in global market. But even nearby Chinese market already became very competitive. One way of approaching Chinese fashion market is to find something special, for example, their historical background. Central Asian culture and costumes, a part of China, has both Eastern and Western culture. No other apparel industry had interest in the Central Asian costumes yet. Therefore, through their costume, a fresh design idea can be suggested.