• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.61-68
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• 2017

The key quality attributes of the pressed powder, one of base makeup products, are skin-affinity and spreadability. In general, there was a limit to meet skin-affinity and spreadability simultaneously, which are opposite attributes each other. In this study, air jet mill process was tried to satisfy two main properties. Skin-affinity was improved by a wet coating of sericite with a mixture of lauroyl lysine (LL) and sodium cocoyl glutamate (SCG). The application of mono-dispersed polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane crosspolymer (DDVDDSC) improved both qualities. Air jet mill process has been mainly applied in the pharmaceutical and food industries, and is a method used for processing powder materials in cosmetic field. In this study, we were able to complete makeup cosmetics with an optimum particle size $6.8{\mu}m$ by combining the air jet mill process at the manufacturing stage. It was confirmed that the Ti element was uniformly distributed throughout the cosmetics by EDS mapping, and that the corners of the tabular grains were rounded by SEM analysis. It is considered that this can provide an effect of improving the spreadability when the cosmetic is applied to the skin by using a makeup tool. LL with excellent skin compatibility and SCG derived from coconut with little skin irritation were wet coated to further enhance the adhesion of sericite. SEM images were analyzed to evaluate effect of the dispersion and uniformity of PMMA on spreadability. With the spherical shapes of similar size, it was found that the spreading effect was further increased when the distribution was homogeneously mono-dispersed. The dispersion and spreadability of PMMA were confirmed by measuring the kinetic friction and optimal content was determined. The silicone rubber powder, DDVDDSC, was confirmed by evaluating the hardness, spreading value, and drop test. Finally, it was found that the dispersion of PMMA and silicone rubber powder affected spreadability. Such makeup cosmetics have excellent stability in drop test while having appropriate hardness, and good stability over time. Taken together, it is concluded that air jet mill process can be utilized as a method to improve skin-affinity and spreadability of the pressed powder.